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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Norsker on November 08, 2017, 01:30:41 pm
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Welp. The MK2 is dead.
Driving along everything is fine, next thing i know im at 3000 rpm and my engine goes kaboom.
Threw a rod directly out of the front of the block... And the back.
Shouldn't take more than a weekend to get a new engine in it?
Is the SB/RA engines more "reliable" or stronger built than the JR engine i had in?
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Recently rebuilt head? Keepers all spotlessly cleaned? Or Older head that just got tired of 3000 RPM's?
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A healthy 1.6 should do 3K all day long, every day.
How many miles on the odo? When were the IM shaft bearings last changed?
A ready-to-go engine should be an easy weekend swap.
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Well it fired out both sides of the bottom of the engine, don't know what the part is called in english but i think it's the conrod bearing which i could see the remains of, from the hole in the engine.
Was running a 1.9 AAZ head.
Found an SB engine with 220k's on the clock. Hope it fires up, been sitting since spring.
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Oh and the engine still cranks and runs.
3 cylinder 1.2TD ;D
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Oh and the engine still cranks and runs.
3 cylinder 1.2TD ;D
25% less pumping losses.
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Haha yeah. I just hope the replacement engine i got is good.
Cranks just fine, no abnormal resistance in turning over.
The wiring harness is not the same though, as this K14 Turbo has watercooling :o
Gotta swap that out then :c Does any of you know if theres a difference in the fusebox?
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IT LIVES!
The new engine sounds 10x healthier than the old one.
HOWEVER
The fuel lines look like a spa bath. There's more air than fuel in the lines. What do?
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I'd run it directly from a clean bottle of fuel. Clear lines in and out of the IP to the bottle. After 5-10 min, if there are bubbles in the return line, the front seal is likely leaking.
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We tried a lot of stuff, replaced seals, tried a water bottle, and the bubbles went away!
But.
If we floor it, you can hear it missing on 1 cylinder.
We suspect an injector, but after working a whole weekend on it and doing the "expensive" labor, i'm gonna send it to a shop now :)
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Wouldn't running it the way it is with a good dose of injector cleaning fluid in the tank be your next "expensive" fix?
Shop labor = Highway robbery to those who are do it themselfers.
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Well my only local diesel shop fixed it for 100 bucks :)
Hooked everything up correctly that we missed (glow plugs, cold start, so on...)
Runs great now! However the clutch starts to slip if i floor it at around 110km/h in 5th or 4th :(