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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Ian0391 on June 13, 2017, 06:59:27 pm
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So long story short, I was desperate for a k14 turbo so I bought a cartridge from a dealer who is not known for quality. The turbo cartridge has about .030" play axially along the shaft, pulling in and out on the wheels. I contacted them and they responded that the manufacturer assured them that is more than acceptable. It has enough play though that the compressor wheel can touch the housing. Does anyone know what's acceptable? Are there any numbers out there? I checked through my Bentley manual but found nothing.
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If it can touch the housing it is most definitely NOT acceptable.
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Yeah that's what I figured. Do you know what amount is acceptable?
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Axial play should barely be perceptible. I haven't measured it but you can just barely feel it when you push one way and then the other.
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That's what I always thought. It is definitely very perceptible, visually and by feel. I was actually suprised when I measured it that the numbers were so small. They supplier is saying that those numbers are fine though which baffles me.
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Someone who sells garbage knock-off turbo cartridges probably isn't all that concerned about relaying accurate specs.
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Yeah that's more or less what I figured. I'm definitely sending it back. Do you know where I can find a k14 new, used or rebuilt? I haven't had much luck. All I cam find is knock offs also of questionable quality.
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I've got a couple of Eco k14s that need servicing. If you want one of these (or from others), or keep the one you have, you could get service from xsboost (http://www.xsboostturbochargers.com/turbo-rebuilding-services/).
PM me if you're interested.
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I sent you a pm. According to the vendor the .030 of play will be taken up by the oil the bearing runs on. I'm not sure if he thinks I'm running 100w oil or what but that seems entirely rediculous to me.
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Radial play will be taken up by oil pressure. Axial play will not.
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So I just by chance realized why there is so much play axialy, the compressor nut was just finger tight. I don't know how I didn't realize this sooner. Goes to show the excellent build quality.
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Update:
Looks like all I have right now are a couple of T3s that need seals. I thought they were k14s, but I musta sold those. My bad.
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It'd all good, unfortunately only a k14 will fit where I'm putting it. I think I might just rebuild this cartridge myself.
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If the nut is loose enough that the wheel has moved on the shaft it needs to be sent out for balancing. Considering it was shipped loose I'd wager it hasn't been balanced properly at all yet. Remember these spin at 100,000+ RPM, having it balanced is critical.
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I always thought the compressor wheel was balanced seperately from the turbine and shaft so the compressor wheels could be swapped?
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The complete assembly is balanced as a set. If you replace a wheel you have to balance it again.
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is there affordable not-*** chra replacement for k14?
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You'd need to give a better definition of 'affordable'. Everything is affordable if you make enough money. Actual Borg Warner K14 turbos are still available new. Last I checked they were ~$900.
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I couldn't find anything under 800 other than the junk from Hans.
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xsboostturbochargers.com has parts
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Unfortunately they have no k14 stuff
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Putting $800 in a $1000 car :D
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Unfortunately they have no k14 stuff
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If anyone still makes kits, then he can get them as he has access.