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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: turboedbug on June 12, 2015, 07:46:12 pm
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Doing a build 1991 ecodiesel. Looking for a good dependable commuter. With a lil bump in performance.
So far what I have is 20 over pistons, all new bearings (pistons and bearings from quality german auto parts) aaz head, arp head studs. Probaly do a gasket match port job on the head. Is there a better intake to run? Undecided on what clutch to run. Not sure on turbo, definitely going to get a different injection that has boost enrichment. So opinions please
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Probably do a port and polish? Ya, probably along with 2.25 or 2.5 inch exhaust with or without muff. This stuff should be a priority if you are truly looking for a "kick" over where you are now. You will be amazed.
It is all about getting cool air in and the hot air out to spin the turbocharger. Also helps to get rid of any lag.
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Depending where you are the aaz head might not be a good idea. It lowers compression which can lead to hard starting in cold weather.
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I am in Washington state. Tmkumx
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Which intake should I run? Also thinking of doing an itercooler.
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From what I've read you will need an intercooler after the 15-16 PSI mark with the kkk k14 you have. At that point without an intercooler the turbo just becomes a fan that blows hot air and no engine wants that ;)
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Just got the block back today. Bored and ready to rock and roll. Anyone know where to pick up a remanufactured intermediate shaft or new? The shaft lost the lip that is close to the pulley.
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Just got the block back today. Bored and ready to rock and roll. Anyone know where to pick up a remanufactured intermediate shaft or new? The shaft lost the lip that is close to the pulley.
I have one ready to ship, complete with pulley and all in great shape.
PM'd
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Pm'd ya back
Well this sucks looks like I recieved two rear intermediate bearings. ks 85 958 694 & 85 958 604 well thats going to hold me up for a bit till I get the appropriate bearings.
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anyone know where I can pick up a steel intake flange for an aaz for custom intake building purposes?
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Well the short block is put together, I measured the protrusion and I am coming up with a .030" maximum protrusion which calls for a 1 notch gasket. Will this be the same if I go with a mls gasket from an aaz?
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Where can I pick up a set of valve cover hardware for an aaz head? I am having a hard time finding a set. I installed the intermediate shaft today and its really tight. I reamed the bearings after installation so there isnt any lip present. Is this common?
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Anyone have any pics of the location of there egt probe?
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Anyone have any pics of the location of there egt probe?
Here's the drilled mount for the Auber Instr probe. It's 1/8- 27 pipe thread.
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/IMG_20120419_185545.jpg) (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Ecodiesel92/media/IMG_20120419_185545.jpg.html)
These are the long reach tools I made to drill and tap in place w/o removing the exh manifold. Worked well and was not difficult. Probe still working well.
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/IMG_20120419_184913.jpg) (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Ecodiesel92/media/IMG_20120419_184913.jpg.html)
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Nice, thanks for the pics.
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(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m122/leah1234_01/Mobile%20Uploads/20150710_164101.jpg) (http://s103.photobucket.com/user/leah1234_01/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150710_164101.jpg.html)ell heres a few of my build
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Just mocking things up. So far I am going to re do the intermediate shaft bearings since they dont feal right. Picked up the alh mains and the thrust bearings that was suggested on another forum. I did a little research on that aspect and felt this was the way to go.
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m122/leah1234_01/Mobile%20Uploads/20150716_161750.jpg) (http://s103.photobucket.com/user/leah1234_01/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150716_161750.jpg.html)
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Sucks that I am tearing it down again but I want everything to be right.
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Are you doing both intermediate shaft bearings? What kind of tools will you be using for the job? I think KS intermediate shaft bearings requires reaming after install. You may want to check if that is true or not before putting them in. I just did the outer in mine and used the Durabond bearings which is sized to fit and requires no reaming.
Edit: Read your post again. You said "re do". So you did them once already? What went wrong?
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I had installed the vwg-1 intermediate shaft bearings I think I didnt ream them the best. So since I am tearing back into the block I will be installing the ks bearings that do not require honing. I used a socket with a long extension and a rubber malet. I will probably be building a tool so it wont produce such a lip from installation.
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Durabond VWG-1 is what I used and they did not require reaming. Why did you have to ream yours and what did you use for a reamer? A reamer got to be big $$$.
After install of the outer bearing, my I shaft turned nice and smooth with no play when rocked side to side.
I used this tool I made for driving of the seal into it's final position. To get the seal started, I pressed it into place first by hand with the oil holes lined up, then used the seal carrier as a punch and a hammer to seat it enough till I can put the two 10 mm bolts in, then pulled the bearing further in, the seal is only partially in but pretty square at this point and I used the tool I made to drive it in the rest of the way. Not shown in the pic but before use, I wrapped the black iron cap with electrical tape so the lip of the bearing is not against metal and the bearing fits more snug. It did not chew up the bearing and create any burrs, the shaft went right in.
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/20150710_182005_zpsrr7u2wxl.jpg) (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Ecodiesel92/media/20150710_182005_zpsrr7u2wxl.jpg.html)
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Anyone have any cooling line and accessory mounting diagrams? I seem to have lost all my pics on my of the dis assembly of the engine :-(
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Partsbase.org
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Well I installed another set of intermediate bearings and it spins very freely
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Does anyone know a good vendor for replacement nozzles? Going to rebuild these injectors
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Well it runs! Need to do an ac and power steering delete. Thinking of retrofitting a gm 1 wire alternator.
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I just went down to Phoenix yesterday with a friend and have to say that despite the fact that I live where it gets down below 0°F for quite a few days every year and the summer temps almost never get above 85°F, IMO A/C is more important in a vehicle than passenger heat. It was only 100°F or so in PHX yesterday, but still miserable. You can always put on more clothes but there's a limit to how much you can take off... The A/C in my Jetta was very valuable to me.
While you may feel that A/C is not something that you would want in your vehicle, in my experience, removing even a system that does not currently function will make a big hit in the resale of the vehicle and make it harder to sell. I would recommend pulling the belt off the compressor, but keeping the system intact.
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I understand where you are coming from, we just did a summer here with no ac in our duramax with a 3 1/2 ,hour round trip commute each day. We got used to it. Now with the ac components on this car they will eventually go back on. But right now temps are dropping and I need to get this thing on the road as my daily asap. This 100$+ a week in fuel prices is killing me.
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Well ac and ps are still intact with the factory alternator. So far so good. I rebuilt the idler pulley for the alternator. They wanted 60$ for a replacement. 5$ for a bearing and now its good to go. I did an oil change at 25 miles and now have a little over 100 miles on the rebuild. Man I should have picked up one of these years ago