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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: 92EcoDiesel Jetta on June 09, 2015, 03:22:17 pm
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I am waiting for rest of the parts to come in like flywheel and pressure plate bolts and seals that I may need.
I did a transmission swaps a few years ago and remember the oil filter was hanging up on the cross member when I lowered the engine to get the tranny out. The Bentley does not say to remove the oil filter. For those who have done a MK2 Jetta clutch, did you remove the oil filter or is there a trick not removing it? I'd prefer not having oil drip on me while I am under the car.
CRSMP5 (haven't seen him post in a while) says it is much easier to get the tranny out if you remove the passenger side axle flange first. I did that when I did the tranny swap but prefer not doing extra work which requires extra parts and may cause complications. Is it really difficult to get the tranny out leaving the flange on?
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i never removed the flange even when i did my mk4. it does make it harder though because u cant just come straight off the engine u have to turn the diff end of the transmission up to get the flange around the flywheel. it's not very hard though, nothing to worry about.
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Thanks! Anyone with answers on the oil filter?
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What does common sense tell you?
Remove the oil filter ahead of time and simply wrap a rag around the flange to catch the drips. If you are worried about the oil in the pan, remove it and catch it in a clean container and put back in later.
Drama over.
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I have everything disconnected except one transmission top bolt. Is this low enough to get the tranny out? Please describe the sequence I need to perform to bench press it out after removing the last bolt.
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/20150615_170533_zpsxjigucrg.jpg) (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Ecodiesel92/media/20150615_170533_zpsxjigucrg.jpg.html)
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Just pull it away from the engine to pull the input shaft out of the clutch, lower away.
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i would not use scissor jacks like that
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i would not use scissor jacks like that
Care to explain why? I actually had a floor jack under there at first, but decided that scissors jacks the less likely to fail, I'm using two of them. What can go wrong?
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The little jacks are tippy.
If you can rent/borrow/buy a tranny jack or atv/motorcycle lift you won't drop a tranny on your hand.
https://dl.dropbox.com/s/hlmv5yog9wlpx5m/20140924_114311.jpg
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The little jacks are tippy.
If you can rent/borrow/buy a tranny jack or atv/motorcycle lift you won't drop a tranny on your hand.
https://dl.dropbox.com/s/hlmv5yog9wlpx5m/20140924_114311.jpg
Agree scissor jacks are not ideal, that's why I have 2 to make it less tippy. Right now it is supported only by the disconnected right engine mount and the 2 scissor jacks and I am not entirely comfortable laying underneath yanking on the tranny. Before doing so, I will back it up with a 4x4 spanning the fender with hook/ ropes through the engine lift points.
How do you maneuver the tranny with a big transmission jack like that? From what I have read, you have to rotate the diff and tilt the tranny at the same time. Supposedly, bench pressing by feel is the only way. This is the first time bench pressing it out for me so I'll see how it goes. How heavy is the tranny? My guess about 60 lbs.
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The ATV jack has wheels, rotating the tranny to clear the flange is slightly tricky, but doable.
The AOP tranny here weighs 77lbs.
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The ATV jack has wheels, rotating the tranny to clear the flange is slightly tricky, but doable.
The AOP tranny here weighs 77lbs.
Have you tried bench pressing it out (and in)? Or went with the ATV jack exclusively? I am leaving the flange on.
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Never tried the bench press. I last used an engine hoist and atv jack.
On further reflection, slings on the tranny might be a reasonable method, particularly if they are on a pipe at the same angle as the drivetrain (higher on the engine side). That could allow rotating the tranny in the slings and pulling away from the engine.
The goal being staying co-axial with the crank axis.
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It's really not that heavy. I was able to throw my blown out 020 off my trailer in to the scrap metal pile.
Not very far mind you...
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In my scrap pile found this heavy duty turnbuckle with bolted jaw ends and some square tubing that's perfect for making this engine hanging hoist. What's nice is that it is micro adjustable, unlike the HF hoist I borrowed last time this was big/ clumsy with a come along that was difficult to adjust. Good idea strapping the tranny. I will hang it from the hoist with a rope that I can tension from below in case I need to escape or get a rest.
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/20150616_133455_zps5xg3suji.jpg) (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Ecodiesel92/media/20150616_133455_zps5xg3suji.jpg.html)
I will leave a scissor jack under the engine as a backup in case my hoist fails.
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/20150616_133156_zpso5ogpbpt.jpg) (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Ecodiesel92/media/20150616_133156_zpso5ogpbpt.jpg.html)
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Turnbuckles are a good idea, too. Now I'm getting the itch to swap my eco tranny back out for the AOP.
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It's really not that heavy. I was able to throw my blown out 020 off my trailer in to the scrap metal pile.
Not very far mind you...
Throwing it off the trailer is very different than finessing it out while on you back and can't see what's hanging it up. Rather than benching it, I may make a transmission jack out of an old office chair with a strong aluminum base on casters.
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Food for thought:
The hole for the AC bracket is a decent hanging point paired with the first linkage bolt. It tends to tilt tailheavy. The clutch cable bracket and the bolt hang the tranny fairly level. I imagine a loop between the clutch bracket and the AC bracket hole would be a decent midpoint. That and the linkage bolt might be a decent angle for a lift point.
(https://dl.dropbox.com/s/4yvxdcx018yj5w3/20150616_154246.jpg)
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Cobbled this tranny jack up. What you see is still a mockup. I will bolt the tranny to one of the jack points and lay a thin piece of ply wood between the other 2 jack points so that if the tranny shifts, it won't roll off and is still supported.
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/20150616_165936_zpsoczzdckl.jpg) (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Ecodiesel92/media/20150616_165936_zpsoczzdckl.jpg.html)
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That's both intriguing and scary.
So long as it can safely hold the tranny, the main downsides I see is how much/little down it might go... if it can clear the engine bay, it might work.
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Why scary? Should handle 80 lbs no problem. Good point whether it's low enough, I will measure. Even if not low enough, I can slide it off the jack onto the ground. I will replace the bottle jack with a scissor jack (3 total) to make it easier to adjust.
How is the ATV jack adjusted? Does it have 3 points of adjustments?
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Nah, that's the downside of that rig... I used wood shims to get the angle. Then it was out, down, out down, in small increments until it was clear. Reverse for installation.
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How far do I have to pull the tranny away from the engine before the input shaft clears?
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How far do I have to pull the tranny away from the engine before the input shaft clears?
About 3"... the bellhousing also needs to clear the flywheel, so you'll know. Try to stay fairly straight until it's clear.
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How far do I have to pull the tranny away from the engine before the input shaft clears?
About 3"... the bellhousing also needs to clear the flywheel, so you'll know. Try to stay fairly straight until it's clear.
So pull approx 3" to clear bellhousing first, then lift the diff up by how much so the flange clears the flywheel and pull further?
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Might be kinda all-at-once... the flange is pretty close to the block (like an inch). I'd rotate the tranny before or during retracting.
It's been 9mo since I last did it, so my recollection is fuzzy. I do recall it being a bit fiddly and I was rushing to get done.
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stop taking picture get under there and pull it off
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I had other stuff to deal with and have not done any more work on the car. I don't like the tranny jack and will make another one from scratch. I felt a slipping clutch in my Caddy for the first time yesterday so I need to perfect the tranny jack because it will be needed again.
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I looked at HF's tranny jacks yesterday.
The little one is pretty crappy, but a good size. ($99)
(http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/0/image/370x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_23989.jpg)http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-capacity-transmission-jack-39178.html
The next one up is better made and easier to use, but will take up twice the space during and after the job. ($145)
(http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/0/image/370x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_22263.jpg)http://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb-Low-Lift-Transmission-Jack-60234.html
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Which one are you buying? I think the $145 one is the one to get since it has 3 saddle tilts, the cheaper one has only one tilt. This is my current jack as it evolves. Should have started with a plywood base to start with and not use the office chair base. Went to home depot and bought a set of 4 casters (smallest they had) for $5. Piece of old plywood laying around was just the right size and didn't require cutting. The tranny has 2 tabs (front and back) with through holes that I think is meant for a transmission jack. I put 2 self tapping screws into the front and rear jacks as locating pins.
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/20150618_151742_zps8fd7knao.jpg) (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Ecodiesel92/media/20150618_151742_zps8fd7knao.jpg.html)
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/20150618_151805_zpsysjnkjbm.jpg) (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Ecodiesel92/media/20150618_151805_zpsysjnkjbm.jpg.html)
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I'm not in a hurry to buy, and interested in a better diy solution.
The jack(s) from below is simple and time tested... (and I have about a dozen of those scissor jacks to use), but that method will almost always require incremental retracting and lowering since the jacks run on the level while the drivetrain is on an angle. :-\
An overhead beam with chains/straps for both the engine and tranny has the potential to keep the pair coaxial while retracting, plus the tranny (when clear) can be lowered to the ground without the issue of jack height underneath. I'm thinking about a beam that can have the tranny end lowered ~5" after the straps are on the drivetrain, two on the engine and two or three on the tranny.
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Man I can't wait till you actual get this out....
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Man I can't wait till you actual get this out....
It's out! The rear scissor jack on the diff. was mounted too far back and was hitting the control arm bushing mount so I couldn't pull the tranny out all the way and was "stuck" I had to hang the tranny's 5th gear housing with a rope onto the brake line mount and removed the tranny jack and benched the rest of it out. Otherwise, the tranny jack worked well to rotate/ separate the tranny from the engine.
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/20150619_160409_zpsa75gbc68.jpg) (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Ecodiesel92/media/20150619_160409_zpsa75gbc68.jpg.html)
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/20150619_162125_zpswamrftxr.jpg)[/URL
How do I remove this wire spring retainer without damaging it? I did not get a new one.
[URL=http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Ecodiesel92/media/20150619_164126_zpsysi9x393.jpg.html](http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/20150619_164126_zpsysi9x393.jpg) (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Ecodiesel92/media/20150619_162125_zpswamrftxr.jpg.html)
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Surprise surprise! The pressure plate bolts from FCPEuro are too short! This is after providing them the VIN and they checked with a "reliable" source at a VW dealer they trust. What to do. Use the old bolts or get correct new ones?
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/20150619_172048_zpsh3cgvsjb.jpg) (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Ecodiesel92/media/20150619_172048_zpsh3cgvsjb.jpg.html)
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Those short ones would fit the torque convertor to flex plate on the vw 010 auto tranmission. Im not sure how they messed that order up considering your car is a manual....
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Yeah don't know how they screwed that one up either. I sent them an email and will call later.
Anyone have a mating harness connector with about 6" of wires so I can splice into my harness for this 5 pin reverse switch? Ever since swapping to the ACN, I lost my reverse lights due to a bad switch and non compatible harness connector. That's a new switch in this pic.
If I can't find the correct mating connector, I will make contact with the 2 pins for reverse, bring out in a pigtail to my harness and gob it up with RTV to keep the elements out.
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/so4AAOSwpdpVevrL/$_57.JPG)
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/20150619_162125_zpswamrftxr.jpg) (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Ecodiesel92/media/20150619_162125_zpswamrftxr.jpg.html)
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If I can't find the correct mating connector, I will make contact with the 2 pins for reverse, bring out in a pigtail to my harness and gob it up with RTV to keep the elements out.
I'd go that direction.
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New clutch disc thickness is 0.35", the old clutch is 0.30", not close to to rivets yet, but the slots on the friction material is gone. Does that make a worn out clutch? It was slipping if I gun the throttle in 5th. The input shaft seal has a slow leak, which coated the bell housing with a film of oil. Would such a small leak get on the friction surfaces? I did replace that seal when I did the ACN swap. Why is it leaking? I'll replace it again and take a closer look at the condition of the shaft surface.
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An overhead beam with chains/straps for both the engine and tranny has the potential to keep the pair coaxial while retracting, plus the tranny (when clear) can be lowered to the ground without the issue of jack height underneath. I'm thinking about a beam that can have the tranny end lowered ~5" after the straps are on the drivetrain, two on the engine and two or three on the tranny.
Can you do a rough sketch of this while installed on the car? I have a hard time seeing it in my minds eye. I have some ideas in modifying mine for when the tranny goes back in. Meanwhile waiting for the correct bolts to come in the mail.
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Might try something like this... sits in the fender recesses.
(https://dl.dropbox.com/s/1p4v3emgatpc431/Hoist1.png)
Needs a hinge at the far end for when the tranny end is lowered.
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Might try something like this... sits in the fender recesses.
(https://dl.dropbox.com/s/1p4v3emgatpc431/Hoist1.png)
Needs a hinge at the far end for when the tranny end is lowered.
The orange ones are for the tranny? I do not see any means for rotation of tranny to clear flange from flywheel. I also fail to see how it is suppose to work. If the scissor jack is on the tranny side, then the bar is higher than horizontal on the tranny end. You need it opposite, i.e. lower than horizontal.
Correct PP to flywheel bolts are suppose to arrive today.
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Ja, orange are for the tranny. I might do similar for the engine, for more options.
The jack is shown in extended position, lowering it to full bottom stop would lower the beam end 5-6".
Still ruminating on rotation... might need a third tranny strap running to an arm extending opposite the diff to keep the housing in line.
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A closer look shows me the lift points on the engine are a couple inches more forward than the tranny centerline, so that will need revision too.