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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: STUBBIE on April 02, 2015, 05:34:28 am
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ok please advise... im doing something wrong.
it was starting and running well but was smoking too much.
i followed these instructions
http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=28 (http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=28)
and now it starts enough to disengage from the starter but immediately shuts off
i had a reading of .28 and i set it to .37(.95mm)
I'm wondering if i set this off the wrong top dead center? i have a raised bump with a tick on the fly wheel, is this the correct tdc?
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If the cam is in the correct orientation, then the flywheel should be "nearly" in the correct position. It is not 180 degrees out if the cam slots line up with the top of the head.
There are different flywheels which may have been used over the years. Mine has a clearly machined mark, which I have then highlighted with a yellow paint pen to indicate TDC.
Can you take and post a pic through the flywheel inspection hole when it's at TDC?
Steve.
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yeah ill post a picture when i get home.
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ok sorry for the delay weather and a health issue have put me on hold. i'm just getting around to working on it again. here is a shot of the inspection port, the top of the picture is the motor and front of the vehicle is to the left
also i re did my tune i completely disconnected the cold start cable and pushed the lever all the way down. im wondering it the cable was too short as it had about 2 inches of travel. after being disconnected.
and another issue developed as i tried to turn it over again. the timing belt was walking off the pulleys. could over tighten have cause this? also the tensioner was rotated counter clock wise when i adjusted the belt. i could not tension counter clockwise because my tensioning tool hits the motor mount before i have any tension. so i rotated it clock wise. could that play a factor on the belt walking off?
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that picture sucks. i must have uploaded a thumbnail. try this one
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Here is what the timing mark on the flywheel should look like on an OEM diesel flywheel.
Mine is painted white, it is a deep "V" shape
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v55/dedfrog/TurboPumpUpgrade/pumpupgrade48_zpsa282717d.jpg)
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yea your 1st pic cannt see athing in it; second pic Thats Not The Mark!!
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If you unscrew that white cap you will have a really good view of the notch on flywheel and you will clearly see the point on the transmission.
I agree with the picture posted by ecotex, that's what mine looks like.
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unscrew that white cap you will have a really good view of the notch on flywheel
This.
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ok used the right mark. timing is right on pump is now right on. i started it and it fired right up i had to adjust my idle but ran great. how ever i am still getting white smoke out of the tailpipe even at idle. once it warmed up the white smoke disapated a bit but you can still see the white exhaust, if i rev it it is a huge cloud.
i tried backing down the fuel screw and it gets to the point where it has no power and still smokes.
the car has been sitting at my place for 5 month and who knows how long it sat for the previous owner. could the fuel be bad? i'm out of ideas.
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Check compression? Losing coolant?
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i will have to check compression, i'm not losing coolant. drained the tank last night, changed the fuel filter and put in new diesel. there was a bunch of water in the filter. might need to get a better fuel cap. the exhaust has darkened up, however it still seems to be running rich. revving it makes big black clouds now. at least the white smoke is gone. i didn't have time last night to try and adjust the fuel screw.
if the screw doesn't work...
i set the pump to 0.87 should i bring the number down or up to lean out a bit
(1.6l non-turbo 1981, 1982, and 1983 pickup 0.88 +/- 0.05 mm)
i really just need to get it to stop smoking for Delaware inspection. i'm going to set it back with in specs for daily driving. they keep failing me for visible smoke out the tail pipe. it's emission exempt, accept apparently the inspectors opinion about exhaust smoke is reason to fail me :/
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black smoke when idling? or when reving up? when reving up its normal of course for some dark smoke, too much and the police may take notice, not knowing mostly its nothing. for that motor 0.87 sounds some conservative, that should be ok(although i dont have much recent exp on mk1s). read over some posts in faq section on adjusting fuel/smoke screw, and it should do you some good, i doubt black/dark smoke is a compression problem. i like to mix both lubromoloy&sea foam 1 can each to a tank of fuel, 3/4 tank gives you some more concentration, run it low. injector prob maybe? in my state too much smoke can get you a ticket for emissions even though the whole car is exempt. drain water separator.
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i will have to check compression, i'm not losing coolant. drained the tank last night, changed the fuel filter and put in new diesel. there was a bunch of water in the filter. might need to get a better fuel cap. the exhaust has darkened up, however it still seems to be running rich. revving it makes big black clouds now. at least the white smoke is gone. i didn't have time last night to try and adjust the fuel screw.
if the screw doesn't work...
i set the pump to 0.87 should i bring the number down or up to lean out a bit
(1.6l non-turbo 1981, 1982, and 1983 pickup 0.88 +/- 0.05 mm)
i really just need to get it to stop smoking for Delaware inspection. i'm going to set it back with in specs for daily driving. they keep failing me for visible smoke out the tail pipe. it's emission exempt, accept apparently the inspectors opinion about exhaust smoke is reason to fail me :/
You should bring it up. I personally like between .94 and .98 for every pump I have put on, including my Giles pump. I have timed down to .88 and up to 1.06, but .94 -.98 seems to be optimum for my setup.