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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Smoker on March 25, 2015, 06:58:01 am
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Where do you guys buy it? Also the cap for #4?
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My local VW shop has a 100? foot roll. autogeek or one of those sites has reasonable kits as well.
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I use this:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#5549k31/=wgudki
Excellent hose that lasts MUCH longer than the black braid covered stock hose. It has the benefit of being clear making diagnosis of air infiltration easier. For the end plug I use a short piece of the hose and install a cut piece of appropriately sized drill bit shank or nail. That method lasts much longer than the stock plugs and has the benefit that if it ever does begin to leak or suck in air, the end of the hose can be trimmed a little and re-installed.
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I just use standard bulk fuel line I get down at the local NAPA store. They'll cut me off a piece however long I need. Never had a problem with it. For the end cap I just stuff a screw in there and put a hose clamp on it.
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It has the benefit of being clear making diagnosis of air infiltration easier.
Brilliant. I ordered some today. Thanks.
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I've been using the black Viton stuff from McMaster....
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/134/=whpo19
Steve.
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I use this:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#5549k31/=wgudki
Excellent hose that lasts MUCH longer than the black braid covered stock hose. It has the benefit of being clear making diagnosis of air infiltration easier. For the end plug I use a short piece of the hose and install a cut piece of appropriately sized drill bit shank or nail. That method lasts much longer than the stock plugs and has the benefit that if it ever does begin to leak or suck in air, the end of the hose can be trimmed a little and re-installed.
Libby - does the clear stuff get brittle over time?
Steve.
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No, it doesn't get brittle. I've used it for several years and it does not change its flexibility. I've found that over several years, the ends of the tube do start to 'remember' the shape of the barbs and so can lose a bit of their 'grip'. Snipping off the ends and pushing the tubing back on the barbs will refresh it for a few more years. I do like the clear for diagnosis. The injector jumpers always have air in them, but after shutdown, you can easily see if air is infiltrating as the bubbles will move from the leaking barb toward the return fitting. If there are no leaks, after shutdown the air/fuel in the jumpers does not move.
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I use the 1/4 nylon clear from home depot. Not sure if its better or worse than tygon but its only $6 for 10ft of it.
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I think the nylon tubing gets hard after while, maybe from the heat.
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If you are in a hurry the clear vinyl works great for a year or so, is locally available and is real cheap.
I'm going to stop using the motorcycle shop urethane line.
It crackles like safety glass after a couple years.
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thanks for the info libb; going to love it when my shipment gets here and i can do clear lines all around; i just have to find some tubing; they had it; i need less than a foot(for 2 cars), and they sell it in 10ft lengths. i ll have to look around some,,