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For Sale/Looking For => Parts for Sale/Wanted => Topic started by: northwestdriver on February 03, 2015, 06:20:25 pm
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I live in Washington state and have a blown head from my 1.5 diesel. Its 11mm head bolts.
So, I need a new head that will fit, 1.5 OR 1.6... PM me for sale.
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What makes it blown? Usually it's the block that goes
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Burn your money, from what limited knowledge I have, I heard the heads crack occasionally when overheated. I only know this because mine just overheated and I'm billowing steam out of my exhaust.. I may either have a cracked head (says my mechanic buddy) or just a blown head gasket.
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99% of the time I think it is head gasket problem. Head warps more than it cracks, it is aluminum after all.
Tolerance of warping is low on these beasts due to compression I think. Using the metal gaskets seems to help with that. At least those cranking their turbos up to 15-20 psi seem to like them.
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When you pull the head there will likely be cracks between the valves. If you can't put a dime in them they aren't big enough to worry about.
Since you have 11mm head bolts, you NEED aftermarket head bolts. ARP. They are longer. You will crack the block without them, it's just a matter of time.
You are allowed 0.004" warpage on the head. If it's more get the head milled flat. You need to remove the precups to do this.
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you NEED aftermarket head bolts. ARP. They are longer. You will crack the block without them, it's just a matter of time.
You are allowed 0.004" warpage on the head. If it's more get the head milled flat. You need to remove the precups to do this.
Actually you don't need to pull the precups. You just need to take the head to someone who regularly surfaces diesel heads. They will be setup to surface the head with th precups still in the head. Clem from Billy Bobs Autow Macheen will just F it up.
its not the bolts that crack the heads it is installing the head bolts with ANY oil or debris in the bolt hole. they will "hydraulic" then tightened down on the admittedly weak blocks. So the studs are a good idea.
Where are you in the Evergreen State? I am near Tackyoma and think I still have one of those heads.
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He is in Seattle, I thought I could hook him up with a head but he would need to come to Portland to get it. Tacoma is much closer. Hook him up!
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99% of the time I think it is head gasket problem. Head warps more than it cracks, it is aluminum after all.
Tolerance of warping is low on these beasts due to compression I think. Using the metal gaskets seems to help with that. At least those cranking their turbos up to 15-20 psi seem to like them.
Worth mentioning... The metal head gaskets are actually extremely INTOLERANT of warpage or problems. They need both surfaces to be extremely flat and smooth to work properly. They do last virtually forever though as long as the engine isn't overheated.
The fiber gaskets will tolerate a bit more of an uneven surface and will seal fine as long as EGTs are kept in check. I ran one with my K24 intercooled at 23-25 PSI peak for several years.
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IMO a metal headgasket is completely not worth the trouble on a solid lifter NA engine, or even a TD pushing less than 15 psi.
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My first VW Diesel was a new 1980 Rabbit with the 1.5 engine. Since then, I've owned a number of Jettas with the 1.6 engine. Including the 1.5, I've had several of the heads milled, with the pre-cup in place. As stated, 0.004" is the limit on warpage! Also, you must make sure the bolt holes in the head are clean with no oil or coolant in them.....
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Please keep it on topic of finding a head for him. If you want to debate the issue of the head please start your own thread. BTW, the 11mm blocks cracked like crazy, dry holes and all, and were the reason vw went to 12mm, FYI.
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I have a 1.6 11mm head from an 82 caddy I would let go.. In montana though.. Would ship.
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diesel hoarder post on vortex with a couple heads.
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I just brought home the parts for the 1.5 my son swapped out of the Dasher. I will do a PM to him and take some pictures in the afternoon tomorrow with the sun on the parts.