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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: 92EcoDiesel Jetta on January 31, 2015, 03:49:09 pm
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I've been getting oil drips down the oil filter and suspect it's the oil cooler o-ring. Got one from the dealer p/n 038 117 070A for a little over $5. When I read that the 27 mm nut is very thin I grounded my 27 mm deep socket's face flat to not have any problems. It was not on very tight! The nut is less than 1/8" thick! Why did VW decide to use such a thin nut?
With both coolant hoses attached, I could not get the cooler off the center stud. I undid the upper hose- a PITA and still had a hard time- it was hitting the bottom hose at the block. I was about to undo the lower hose but tried rotating the oil cooler a few degrees first and that allowed it to clear the center stud and drop down.
Got everything back together and started the car and no oil gushed out but have not driven it yet. Time will tell if the job was successful.
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The nut is less than 1/8" thick! Why did VW decide to use such a thin nut?
Maybe to not interfere with the top of the filter?
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The nut is less than 1/8" thick! Why did VW decide to use such a thin nut?
Maybe to not interfere with the top of the filter?
Nope, the nut runs deep into the cooler, about 3/4 to 1"
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about the squeeze you put on filter gasket, space for tighten to seal compression(o-ring)
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about the squeeze you put on filter gasket, space for tighten to seal compression(o-ring)
Huh?
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The center tube (I erroneously called it a stud) has about 2" of threads and the nut is way up there, no where near the filter gasket.
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Top of filter is close to nut...
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Top of filter is close to nut...
Yeah you're right. I could't see and the deep socket feels like it's way up in the cooler while tightening the nut.
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That nut is rarely on very tight. Channel locks or vise grips work great. Once you get the nut off, slide the cooler down and then use vise grips to loosen the oil tube. It doesn't matter if you damage the threads a bit, they are all covered by the oil cooler and are not needed.
As an aside, it's really a heat exchanger since it also heats the oil on cold starts.
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"Nut is rarely on very tight" Is that good or bad or normal? I think mine was too loose and was cause of the drip. Good tip with the vise grips. Would have saved me from undoing the coolant hose if I knew. It was 4 pm 25 F sun was still up so not too cold when I started. I was worried I'd get stuck not able to finish before sun goes down but lucked out and was done in about 1 hour. I started the engine idled it for 10 minutes to warm up the filter/ cooler a little before work and that really helped to not have frozen fingers.
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"Nut is rarely on very tight" Is that good or bad or normal? I think mine was too loose and was cause of the drip.
Maybe as much torque as a filter should be fine.
The seals do get brittle and crack.
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"Nut is rarely on very tight" Is that good or bad or normal? I think mine was too loose and was cause of the drip.
Maybe as much torque as a filter should be fine.
The seals do get brittle and crack.
Mine was not cracked, just flattened and looked like crap. I'll take pic of it and post later.
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I don't have my Bentley with me but someone should post the official torque spec. Good tip on warming the coolant a little before starting this job.
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I don't have my Bentley with me but someone should post the official torque spec.
18 ft-lbs.
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I don't have my Bentley with me but someone should post the official torque spec.
18 ft-lbs.
Thanks.
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I used this Gear wrench setup that is about 8.5" long, with the ground flat face socket and working blind from above, had a hard time keeping the socket aligned with the nut so it doesn't slip. There was also very little swing room for the gear wrench. I don't think there is room enough to swing a 3/8 drive torque wrench (much longer than 8.5") in the engine compartment. Maybe it is possible with a long extension + universal from under the car but then you'd need a helper- one to hold the socket on the nut and the other to turn the torque wrench.
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/20150201_111623_zpsdejpxjwm.jpg) (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Ecodiesel92/media/20150201_111623_zpsdejpxjwm.jpg.html)
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I think a stubby 1/2 drive or 3/8 (even shorter) ratchet from above is the best tool for the job. Just tighten to 18 ft lbs by feel.
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Is the tube and nut discontinued? Is yours messed up. Check the dealer if still available items 17 & 15.
http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=744149
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naw i can find parts/nut, thanks though, what i meant was 27mm nuts and bolts for specialty tools, 1 bolt+nut for trans timing tool, +2nuts to take down tube.
WTH ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT? ? ? Don't answer unless it has something to do with changing the seal.
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27mm is 1 1/16 basically. Vise grips are the specialty tool for this job. Just don't grab the threads.
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You should able to get that off with a standard 27mm socket. It just has to be squared to the oil cooler because of how slim the nut is. Get the socket on the nut by hand so you know its on there, and then put the ratchet on and take it off.
If not, yeah channel locks would probably do the trick
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27mm is 1 1/16 basically. Vise grips are the specialty tool for this job. Just don't grab the threads.
Yes, 1-1/16 is 0.0125 smaller than 27 mm, with tolerance in manufacturing, they are practically identical. The socket and gear wrench in the pic is from Lowes/ Kobalt brand I got for $1.00 and $5.00 when they changed to a new line of tools and clearing out the old line.
Do you know if a 6 point impact socket (thicker wall) will fit the nut (is nut recessed)? I did not try one but a six point is less likely to slip off the nut.
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It's pretty flat on the bottom, an impact socket should work fine.
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It's pretty flat on the bottom, an impact socket should work fine.
Sounds good. Were you able fit a torque wrench in there?
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I've driven it a bit and no more drips down the oil filter.