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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: RunninWild on January 20, 2015, 07:39:02 pm
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I have a garret T3 I'm planning on running (atleast temporarily) on an AAZ I'm building. The turbo seems to be in fairly good shape with no play in the shaft. My problem is the little bell shape thing, (Assuming this is a boost activated diaphram that opens the internal waste gate) is completely rusted out on the bottom and I'm pretty skeptical of its ability to preform its job. Assuming I'd like to run fairly high boost is this even necessary? Is it bad to run higher boost with a completely fresh engine during brake in? Are these replaceable? If so anyone know a part number or where I can get a new one?
looks like this pic.
(https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRL8LxQZ-cDcy8qTvdIWBpQXg_-GJkC62Ev2lUzzR8XCZU0vHquUg)
Can post pics of the damage if necessary
Random question... I need an angled oil filter housing for the filter to clear the engine mounts on the samurai I'm planning on dropping the motor into. I read somewhere that any passat/audi a4 1.8t housing would work? I found one from a 1999 A4 1.8t model number 050 115 417 on ebay for cheap and bought it last night. Anyone have any idea if this is the right one?
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how rusty is it on the bottom? take a picture of the spot you're talking about. it's most likely ok though.
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(http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab341/mikeinaus/Mobile%20Uploads/20150121_190708_zps55xlsinm.jpg)
(http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab341/mikeinaus/Mobile%20Uploads/20150121_190650_zpsiejm6yiz.jpg)
the housing is completely rusted free from the base. I can move the housing forward and back around 1/4"
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Oh that wont work, you will need to get crestive to fix that, either find a way to attach the good part of the wastegate can to the compressor housing, or get rid of the stock can, and thread or drill a hole through the wastegate valves rod and attach a new or used can from ebay or another car to it, like the t3 turbo that prothe sells
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(http://www.turbosandparts.com/images/16Turbo.JPG)
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What about jb welding the base of it back onto the housing? I assume if the bladder inside is still intact and I can seal the housing it should function no? Any way to test the bladder? Assuming to put vacuum on the line and see if it holds?
I got a buster k 14 as well. Maybe I could rig something out with its waste gate assuming it's still in decent shape
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i don't think anything from the k14 will swap over, and jbweld i wouldn't want to use on something that gets as hot as a turbo. if u just made a bracket or 2 that attached the wastegate to 2 of the bolts that hold the compressor housing on you will be ok. u can even run self tapping screws in to the lower portion of the wastegate can to make it easier. personally, i'd do something more like the prothe turbo, it looks the nicest and wastegate cans are cheap and then u know that you have a good one.
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So Inside the waste gate can is a rod? Shouldn't be that hard to cut the can off weld a nut onto the baseplate and then attach it like in the photo eh.
the can doesn't have anything to do with when gate opens right? Assuming that is an internal spring force by the gate? Sorry still learning about turbos.
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So Inside the waste gate can is a rod? Shouldn't be that hard to cut the can off weld a nut onto the baseplate and then attach it like in the photo eh.
the can doesn't have anything to do with when gate opens right? Assuming that is an internal spring force by the gate? Sorry still learning about turbos.
inside the can is a rod and a spring, when boost pressure is applied to the can it pushes against the spring pressure to open the wastegate valve.
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and actually self tapping screws would be dumb they might bind up the spring, i have a t3 with a missing wastegate can myself, haha i never thought to do any of this until now
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So in a perfect world I'd need a can from another t3?
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Maybe another cars t3, but i dont think u can remove a vw one with out destroying it
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(http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab341/mikeinaus/Mobile%20Uploads/20150122_181452_zpspo1xsqez.jpg)
Think this can/arm from my k14 would work? Doesn't look like it would be too hard to mount. could grind off my current can, weld a nut onto the top of the arm on the t3 and then thread the rod into the nut. Could even weld the rod to the nut if necessary.
How is boost controlled? My understanding : on a stock setup the boost pressure overcomes the spring pressure and vents excess boost, therefore spring pressure is what controls boost correct? How do people get more boost out of these? Does a manual boost controller just limit the amount of boost going to the waste gate? Say stock spring pressure = 10 psi, and you want to run 20psi, youd then install something inline that doesnt open until 20psi infront of the stock spring?
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(http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab341/mikeinaus/Mobile%20Uploads/20150122_181452_zpspo1xsqez.jpg)
Think this can/arm from my k14 would work? Doesn't look like it would be too hard to mount. could grind off my current can, weld a nut onto the top of the arm on the t3 and then thread the rod into the nut. Could even weld the rod to the nut if necessary.
How is boost controlled? My understanding : on a stock setup the boost pressure overcomes the spring pressure and vents excess boost, therefore spring pressure is what controls boost correct? How do people get more boost out of these? Does a manual boost controller just limit the amount of boost going to the waste gate? Say stock spring pressure = 10 psi, and you want to run 20psi, youd then install something inline that doesnt open until 20psi infront of the stock spring?
yeah u can mod that can to work, whats that k14 from? never seen one like that. and yes ur correct about boost control. only thing is the wastegate bleeds off extra exhaust manifold pressure not boost, but i think u understand that, just semantics.
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The k 14 came with my aaz. Assumed it was stock. I think it's a k 14 anyways I haven't read the sticker in a while.
I ripped the can off the t3 and looks pretty easy to mod. Like you said there's a spring, a plate and a shaft with a nut on it. Hardest part will probably be modifying that bracket from the k 14 can to align everything.
Am I going to run into any problems opening that plate below the can on the t3? Assuming that will give me access to the valve and shouldn't effect balancing or anything eh?
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The k 14 came with my aaz. Assumed it was stock. I think it's a k 14 anyways I haven't read the sticker in a while.
I ripped the can off the t3 and looks pretty easy to mod. Like you said there's a spring, a plate and a shaft with a nut on it. Hardest part will probably be modifying that bracket from the k 14 can to align everything.
Am I going to run into any problems opening that plate below the can on the t3? Assuming that will give me access to the valve and shouldn't effect balancing or anything eh?
nope ur safe with opening that, u wont throw off the balance of anything until u get to the rotating assembly. u could even the lap that valve in while its apart. there may be cracks where the valve seats, don't worry about them unless they go the whole way through something.