Post by: Rising on October 20, 2014, 06:31:45 pm
Last summer it would have temps start to go up on grades but all I had to do was slow down and keep it in check. This summer I've had an egt gauge and have never had a problem till after I installed my turbocharger and intercooler. Now I'm running the intercooler in front of my radiator which I was worried about at first. But now I'm not so sure that is it. During the first few weeks I didn't have any problems. Then I started to see temps climb if I was hot rodding for a bit. Then it would start to get hotter if I wasn't on the highway.
Now at idle it will raise the temps up to about 3/4 or so, the fan kicks on and off but the coolant steaming and bubbling. So it's gotta be overheating. What's wierder is on the highway The temps stay way down around the 1/4 mark but if you stop it seems like the car has been puking up some coolant.
Anyway at this point I can only guess headgasket. But I'm confused by all the wierdness and don't want to just try out a head gasket...
Post by: RabbitJockey on October 20, 2014, 06:35:08 pm
Post by: RabbitJockey on October 20, 2014, 06:36:20 pm
sounds like a hg or cracked head
and u want to get to it asap before u wear a cylinder out with a bunch of water in it
Post by: Rising on October 20, 2014, 06:39:02 pm
Post by: RabbitJockey on October 20, 2014, 06:40:51 pm
Post by: Rising on October 21, 2014, 03:52:59 am
What actually causes the overheating? Is it exhaust gasses into the Coolant?
Wheres the best place to order headstuds? I'm finding them for around 180-200$ I thought they were closer to 130$ somewhere... But that might have been for the escort studs...
Post by: theman53 on October 21, 2014, 06:13:25 am
Post by: Rising on October 22, 2014, 11:32:43 am
Post by: RabbitJockey on October 22, 2014, 01:29:35 pm
Post by: Rising on October 22, 2014, 02:02:37 pm
Oh well. I'm just happy to have tapatalk back!Anyway so I ordered a 2 notch gasket since mine was technically in 2 notch range from all the measurement I took.. But I'm still scared since a 3 notch was on it and I haven't ever measured this before.
If its going to be a problem it will show up during timing when I crank the engine over a few rotations right? Its valve contact we are worried about right? Or is it more an issue of efficiency?
Post by: RabbitJockey on October 22, 2014, 02:55:57 pm
Weird. I kinda thought i was losing my mind..
Anyway so I ordered a 2 notch gasket since mine was technically in 2 notch range from all the measurement I took.. But I'm still scared since a 3 notch was on it and I haven't ever measured this before.
If its going to be a problem it will show up during timing when I crank the engine over a few rotations right? Its valve contact we are worried about right? Or is it more an issue of efficiency?
yes you will detect any valve contact issues during turn over, ull be ok dont sweat it.
Post by: TylerDurden on October 24, 2014, 05:27:29 am
(I don't think the gasket was leaking between cylinders, I think it was along the back, hence the red rust on the coolant passages near there.)
Post by: Rising on November 04, 2014, 06:12:03 pm
Im putting arps on it. I defy it to blow again... Is there any 1000 mile retorque with arps? These with a fiber gasket should be good for 20psi right?
Post by: vanbcguy on November 04, 2014, 07:37:40 pm
ARP studs are fine for 20 PSI. Really stock stretch bolts are OK at 20 as long as you aren't running high EGTs or exhaust manifold pressure. No retorque is required with ARP studs.
Post by: Rising on November 05, 2014, 05:10:09 am
Does that sound right? Alternately and diagonally on two and 5 and then 1 and 3? Is there not a bearing cap 4?
Post by: Rising on November 06, 2014, 07:57:34 pm
Post by: RabbitJockey on November 07, 2014, 09:58:59 am
Post by: Rising on November 07, 2014, 12:29:32 pm
Well it looks like I'm gonna be joining the league of denying again. I absolutely cannot believe this. Chock this up to rookie mistakes: I just lost all my coolant :( upper radiator hose came loose (guess that wasn't as tight as I thought) and pumped my coolant out...
I saw wet tire tracks and started questioning but then thought maybe I hit a puddle. And about a half a mile later I realized my temp gauge was in the upper hemisphere. Pulled over and saw steam coming out of the hood popped it to find steam wafting from my open radiator pipe.
I can only hope I didn't just warp the head/blow the gasket again. I'm on the side of the road praying and letting it cool down before adding coolant again...
Its a windy 45-50 degrees here today. Maybe I won the head gasket lottery... But if not at least I used headstuds :/
Post by: RabbitJockey on November 07, 2014, 01:54:07 pm
Post by: Rising on November 07, 2014, 02:12:09 pm
Its running again. I guess time will tell if it is blown. Started fine. I'll check the water and oil over the next few trips I guess. How hard is it to install an mk2 coolant level gauge? Or some other kind?
Post by: TylerDurden on November 07, 2014, 03:24:40 pm
Post by: southernman on November 08, 2014, 09:15:46 am
just a heads up on the ARP head studs: I think someone posted that there is NO re-torque sequence required for the ARP's. That is NOT correct.
I've got an '84 1.6 NA and went with ARP's. I'd gotten so much conflicting information on them, I decided to check the torques after it was fired up from a fresh rebuild for comfort's sake. A local shop here in Raleigh, with a reputation for being experts for 30 yrs, would only say, "...the studs lose torque and will not work on my engine." Well, here's what I found:
The studs lost nearly 50% of their torque values within the first hour of operation. Run it up to temp, and let it cool completely down.
So I re-torqued them a second time.
I ran the car for about 100 miles, pulled the valve cover to check torques, and they were again down by about 30%.
Re-torqued them a third time and drove the car for about 1000 miles.
The torque values were spot on.
I recommend you pull and check them, at least, 2 times after initial start up. The clamping force for studs is different than for bolts. When ARP studs are combined with an aluminum cylinder head, the gasket will compress from thermal expansion, and studs (which are not designed to yield and then recover) will stretch until they have taken "set".
On the race engines I've built over the years, I've found this to be true on every ARP studded engine I've ever built. The studs will stretch and even ARP recommends 3 full torque sequences BEFORE the engine is even started. so don't think for a minute that you can torque them one time and forget 'em. If you do - YOUR ENGINE WILL LOSE SEAL...
Once the ARP's have set (elasticity limits have been met), they are outstanding at maintaining torque values.
Re-torque them studs or I can assure you, the head gasket will fail - and it will not be the head gaskets fault...
Just an FYI.
Southernman
Post by: Rising on November 08, 2014, 03:42:09 pm
Rising,Interesting! Thanks for the heads up. I just actually looked up and ARPs website says to retorque if the headgaskets manufacturer recommends it. Which is interesting considering I think all of our head gaskets originally have instructions concerning retorquing stretch bolts.
just a heads up on the ARP head studs: I think someone posted that there is NO re-torque sequence required for the ARP's. That is NOT correct.
I've got an '84 1.6 NA and went with ARP's. I'd gotten so much conflicting information on them, I decided to check the torques after it was fired up from a fresh rebuild for comfort's sake. A local shop here in Raleigh, with a reputation for being experts for 30 yrs, would only say, "...the studs lose torque and will not work on my engine." Well, here's what I found:
The studs lost nearly 50% of their torque values within the first hour of operation. Run it up to temp, and let it cool completely down.
So I re-torqued them a second time.
I ran the car for about 100 miles, pulled the valve cover to check torques, and they were again down by about 30%.
Re-torqued them a third time and drove the car for about 1000 miles.
The torque values were spot on.
I recommend you pull and check them, at least, 2 times after initial start up. The clamping force for studs is different than for bolts. When ARP studs are combined with an aluminum cylinder head, the gasket will compress from thermal expansion, and studs (which are not designed to yield and then recover) will stretch until they have taken "set".
On the race engines I've built over the years, I've found this to be true on every ARP studded engine I've ever built. The studs will stretch and even ARP recommends 3 full torque sequences BEFORE the engine is even started. so don't think for a minute that you can torque them one time and forget 'em. If you do - YOUR ENGINE WILL LOSE SEAL...
Once the ARP's have set (elasticity limits have been met), they are outstanding at maintaining torque values.
Re-torque them studs or I can assure you, the head gasket will fail - and it will not be the head gaskets fault...
Just an FYI.
Southernman
Either way it is no big problem to pull the valve cover for peace of mind ;) I'll take your advice and make sure they are all nipped up now that they've had a couple heat cycles.
Post by: RabbitJockey on November 08, 2014, 05:23:26 pm