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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: ropadopa on August 27, 2014, 12:34:31 pm
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Had some down time at the shop and needed to get my daily driver in for some maintenance + mods.
Had to RR the complete shifter assembly , with a shorter throw shifter bar, came out sweet,
since i had to take the exhaust down to get to the shifter box, Figured good time for that downpipe project, I have been collecting flanges pipes and bends to knock one out.
I will get some pics together in the next few days.
Which leads me up to my big Question
Im making a 2.5 downpipe and will merge it into the oem exhaust just past the cat, car is all stock and a strong driver. Only mod i have is a boost gauge and it reads 7-8 PSI max. I imagine that once i removed the clogged up looking cat and down pipe it will free things up a bit. IM not looking for max power.
Should i at least mess with the fuel screw a little?
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I don't know where flotida is but in some states, they started to physically checking for presence of the CAT and will fail you if you don't have one. In 92, VW sold diesels with CAT and without, one way around it is to get a core support from a non CAT car with the sticker that says "No catalyst".
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I don't know where Florida is but in some states, they started to physically checking for presence of the CAT and will fail you if you don't have one. In 92, VW sold diesels with CAT and without, one way around it is to get a core support from a non CAT car with the sticker that says "No catalyst".
Florida , you know the sunshine state , No inspection here.
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Well if you aren't looking for power then no don't touch it... But I don't think that's what you meant.
There is a thread in the sticky FAQ that talks about making your 1.6 a faster car and I believe it would be a good read for you if you haven't already.
From my understanding (of that thread and others)and experience our cars could use a little more fuel from the factory without need for much else in the area of modifications. However I wouldn't go too crazy on it until you get an EGT gauge (I like the auber instruments one, another favorite is the micro 1000 westach combo). And if you are building a downpipe I'd definitely recommend disabling the stock Bov, if you haven't already. That will allow more boost and thus the potential to add more fuel. As a rule of thumb I'd try maybe a 1/4 turn in and see if that starts you smoking but with usld you are gambling without gauges.
Moral of the story: if you want to increase power on your diesel you'll need to tweak that screw but you should have proper gauges first.
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(http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h103/grip2000/jetta/MISSILE-WIN_20140827_150046_zps98848cfa.jpg) (http://s62.photobucket.com/user/grip2000/media/jetta/MISSILE-WIN_20140827_150046_zps98848cfa.jpg.html)
(http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h103/grip2000/jetta/MISSILE-WIN_20140827_150101_zpsec465b12.jpg) (http://s62.photobucket.com/user/grip2000/media/jetta/MISSILE-WIN_20140827_150101_zpsec465b12.jpg.html)
(http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h103/grip2000/jetta/MISSILE-WIN_20140828_112450_zps8f24d927.jpg) (http://s62.photobucket.com/user/grip2000/media/jetta/MISSILE-WIN_20140828_112450_zps8f24d927.jpg.html)
Thanks for the input, Got this in and it gave me 2-3 psi, hooked to the stock exhaust until i gather more pipe. Looking at EGT set ups and really would lie to get a tach on it, before i goof wit hit any further. Between this and the shifter gig it was a success. thanks
Rising I have read up a bunch and my model dose not have a BOV
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The BOV is actually called an overboost protection valve or something similar. I don't know which years got them but it is located on the intake manifold, on the left if looking from the front of the car. I know some of the newer cars did not get them, you maybe lucky.
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No BOVs on stock ECOs, as I recall.
I'd seriously consider a flex-pipe somewhere in there.
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No BOVs on stock ECOs, as I recall.
I'd seriously consider a flex-pipe somewhere in there.
what for ? those things suck, there was not one there from factory?
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The stock pipe flexes at the bowl union (that's why it isn't a flange).
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The stock pipe flexes at the bowl union (that's why it isn't a flange).
noticed that, I will keep an eye on it to make sure it dosent become a serious problem.,
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had slinky nightmares all night, lol
Fixed
(http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h103/grip2000/jetta/MISSILE-W_20140829_142221_zpsad3b4060.jpg) (http://s62.photobucket.com/user/grip2000/media/jetta/MISSILE-W_20140829_142221_zpsad3b4060.jpg.html)
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had slinky nightmares all night, lol
Fixed
(http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h103/grip2000/jetta/MISSILE-W_20140829_142221_zpsad3b4060.jpg) (http://s62.photobucket.com/user/grip2000/media/jetta/MISSILE-W_20140829_142221_zpsad3b4060.jpg.html)
Nice! Is it stainless and what did you weld it with? How much work went into that?
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Its, stainless. Mig, 5-6 hours.
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Make me one of those for my 91 Eco ;)
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Keep in mind the flex point may have optimal location... My WAG is it might be close to the manifold, where the original union is/was.
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Well its been a few weeks, since the install. i thought i would share some results.
Before the downpipe the car boosted 5-6 psi of boost and you really had to ring it out to get 7-8 psi
After the pipe and removing restrictive semi clogged catalytic converter 260K miles.it goes 7-8 pretty quick and 10-11 at high RPM.
After that i did what any other Hot Rodder would do, i tightened the waste gate spring one turn without much change then turned the fuel screw tight one half turn and two more rotations on the waste gate.
Wow, car feels twice as fast, I mean i can keep up with traffic and drives like a normal car.
Boost goes straight to 10PSI evry gear and stays, until the Florida heat takes away a PSI or 2 , I would imagine a intercooler would solve that.
i tried turning the fuel screw 1/4 more of a turn and no more power but more smoke just wanted to try it to see if there was something i was missing.
I turned the fuel screw back to half turn in from stock and have been drivin it for 7-800 miles and MPG"S are closer to 40mpg when before i was closer to 45mpg.
I may move it back out a fuzz to see how it acts.
Did this with no EGT guage , just seat of the pants tunning. I know this isn't recommended but im only messing with 10PSI and i figured that since the ECO dosent have an LDA that if anything its gets leaner the higher the RPM so im hoping it wont be any trouble at this tune. Please feel free to correct my thinking.
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I ran my 1.6TD unintercooled at around 15 PSI for many years - just kept the smoke levels reasonable. Later on I added an intercooler and ran it at about 23 PSI peak for another couple of years before eventually blowing up my transmission. I never did get my EGT gauge installed on that engine.
Be careful, move things upwards in small increments, keep the smoke level reasonable and you'll do ok. Just be prepared for some expensive repairs if you go too far. I really haven't seen many EGT-related failures on the 1.6TDs in terms of the engines themselves, but high EGTs will definitely eat your turbo for lunch.
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I believe that high EGTs are the reason for cracks in the pre-chambers and high EGTs can make previously small cracks grow very quickly. If you factor dropped pre-cups into EGT related failures, the number is significant.