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General Information => Troubleshooting => Topic started by: Diesel_Zuk on June 26, 2014, 01:57:03 pm
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So I checked the timing on my ecodiesel, to see if that is why it wasn't starting. I noticed the mark on the flywheel was just slightly past the mark of where it's supposed to be. I took belt off, and tried to correct it, but noticed every time I tensioned the belt, it would turn it just a hair past the mark again. Am I just doing something wrong? I have the cam lock in place, and the pump pinned.
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If the crank moves during the belt tensioning process, then you are doing it wrongly. Is the cam sprocket loosened on the shaft?It should be. Did you rotate the crank a few degrees counter-clockwise and then back to TDC without going past so that all of the slack is in the tensioner area? You should have. Pump pin should not be in place when tensioning the belt although there is usually enough slop in the pin that it doesn't matter.
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If the crank moves during the belt tensioning process, then you are doing it wrongly. Is the cam sprocket loosened on the shaft?It should be. Did you rotate the crank a few degrees counter-clockwise and then back to TDC without going past so that all of the slack is in the tensioner area? You should have. Pump pin should not be in place when tensioning the belt although there is usually enough slop in the pin that it doesn't matter.
I actually did forget to loosen the cam bolt, maybe that's where I went wrong.
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If you didn't loosen the cam bolt or pull the pin from the injection pump, then you also didn't do the CCW and then back to TDC without going past. If you don't, then the crank will move and the pump and cam timing will be retarded.
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How do you get the cam sprocket loose? I broke the bolt loose using the cam lock tool, but I have no way of hitting the back side with a soft faced hammer, as the bentley manual suggests since the back timing plate is there. There is a small hole, and somebody suggested using a small punch, but it is just eating up the sprocket, and I don't want to damage it. What tool do I need?
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A punch is what I use. Just make sure it is a flat punch, not a point! One good whack is all it takes.
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Please do not use the cam lock tool to loosen or tighten the cam sprocket bolt. You will eventually break the cam. Hold the cam sprocket with something.
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Please do not use the cam lock tool to loosen or tighten the cam sprocket bolt. You will eventually break the cam. Hold the cam sprocket with something.
Thanks for the heads up. Any suggestion what to use?
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A punch is what I use. Just make sure it is a flat punch, not a point! One good whack is all it takes.
I did use a flat punch, still nothing, it is still denting up the sprocket a little bit, I don't want to damage anything.
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You can get a cam pulley holder tool fairly inexpensively, I got mine at Princess Auto. You can also use a crescent wrench on a cam lobe provided everything is CLEAN.
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Use a bigger hammer or take a longer swipe at it. Unless someone over torqued it, it will come off but it takes a quick sharp wack.
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Use a bigger hammer or take a longer swipe at it. Unless someone over torqued it, it will come off but it takes a quick sharp wack.
I got it finally, I got the biggest flattest punch I could fit in the hole, and a big long swipe. Is it normal that there is a little tiny slack in the cam lock tool and the head? I tried my best, but I think that still threw off my timing by a little bit, not sure if it will be a big deal or not.
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I went to put my starter on, and I ran into this, I don't remember seeing it before, and none of the starter bolts fit through the hole, any idea where it goes? I'm super close to being able to try and start this thing again.
(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag23/SamuraiNoob/Mobile%20Uploads/2B42A55C-61E0-49EE-8D32-8AA627918CDD_zpsatkhggsl.jpg)
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Yes, the cam lock tool isn't a tight fit on its own. You are supposed to use a pair of feeler gauges with even thickness under each side to make a snug fit.
I'm guessing that wire is your chassis ground?
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I followed it, it goes to the starter. This some beach is driving me crazy. I had the starter rebuilt by a reputable shop, as opposed to buying used. I retimed everything, put starter on, charged battery, and voila!!!! It still cranks extremely slow. I know it is not my engine locked up or anything, I can turn by hand with a ratchet good and smooth.
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Where is the starter from? A starter from a generator might be wound for 24V and run 1/2 speed.
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It is the stock battery. I didn't wire the batteries in series, I did them in parallel, like you do when you jump start a car.
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If the wire goes to the starter then the other end should either be on the alternator or the battery. Weird that it is black though.
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If you don't, then the crank will move and the pump and cam timing will be retarded.
if crank moves during the timing process its also possible to develop mechanical problems later. not just 'retarded timing'.
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If the wire goes to the starter then the other end should either be on the alternator or the battery. Weird that it is black though.
any black wire must be first assumed as a ground, becareful, don't short out.
a slow starter would be; bad hot connection or wiring,
bad ground from trans ground post, possibly bad body ground,
bad batt or needs charge,
possibly needing a good hot connection from alt to batt, and alt grounding,
(bad starter),