VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: 92EcoDiesel Jetta on June 21, 2014, 08:16:28 pm
-
I found this nice diesel flywheel pic and borrowed it.
We know circled in green is TDC
Anyone know how many degrees before TDC is the red tooth?
What is the blue tooth used for? It is way after TDC
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/dieselflywheel_zps68f7d8a0.png) (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Ecodiesel92/media/dieselflywheel_zps68f7d8a0.png.html)
-
From what I know the first tab is 12 degrees BTDC and the second one is 20 degrees ATDC. I get that from the Pulse adapter literature I had. There are two ways that the adapters work. One sensed the mechanical ping off the injectors and uses the BTDC nub and the other adapter used the actual flash of the fuel to switch on and off the electronic device by means of a photo cell, hence the name Luminosity adapter. LUMY for short.
I own a Lumy and was provided the Pulse adapter by RBREMILLER, thanks man, so I could measure out my IP and get readings on both nubs. Did a compare chart here someplace.
DAS
-
As I recall, there are 125 teeth on the typical 1.6D flywheel, so the red looks close to 12o BTDC and the blue looks close to 20o ATDC.
-
From what I know the first tab is 12 degrees BTDC and the second one is 20 degrees ATDC. I get that from the Pulse adapter literature I had. There are two ways that the adapters work. One sensed the mechanical ping off the injectors and uses the BTDC nub and the other adapter used the actual flash of the fuel to switch on and off the electronic device by means of a photo cell, hence the name Luminosity adapter. LUMY for short.
I own a Lumy and was provided the Pulse adapter by RBREMILLER, thanks man, so I could measure out my IP and get readings on both nubs. Did a compare chart here someplace.
DAS
So VW put those flywheel marks at 12 deg BTDC and 20 ATDC specifically for diesel pulse adapters and luminosity probes? When you use the pulse adapter, did you try placing the piezo near the delivery valve and near the #1 or #4 injector nut? How many degrees of difference did you notice and which is the correct one?
-
I am not sure VW was that forward thinking on the tab placement. Maybe, but the tabs are used by others. The SnapOn Tools I was using convert mechanical or light signals into and electrical pulse that then can fire off a regular timing light. Like a gasser does with the spark plug. EWww what are those things?
When I used the pulse adapter I placed the piezp pick up about 1/2 inch from the nut. I tried it at several other places back down the line but there were few choices to get it on and once I got close to the IP I started getting too much interference from other sources. Some say it picks up the swell in the line but I don't agree with that. Why? Because when I first was loaned the equipment I didn't have a proper advance type timing light but I did have the old school Sears light from the 70's with an inductive pick up. So I just clamped the pickup on a 1/4 inch bolt and hit it lightly with a screwdriver tip. That is all it took to make the timing light fire off. I believe the pickup senses mechanical pings.
Back to the questions; I tried the pickup on both the #1 and #4 cylinders. Got the same readings on both so I would use #4 as it is much easier to get to and not have to work around the IP. The degrees of difference between the two cylinders is nada. Both TDC at the same mark just 180 degrees between them TDC is TDC for any given cylinder. SnapOn has a monster device that you can use with these adapters that actually can offset the other cylinders too. Not sure what all that device was used for. Charging 150 extra dollars for a tune up?
So, using a pulse adapter, which is way handier than the one that goes in the Glow Hole. Use the 12 BTDC mark and place the pickup close to the nut. In my hunting around for proper numbers and proceedures I think I only found one mention of a degree or so of difference when placing the pickup on the line. I tried to simulate that and was foiled again by a shaky IP I think. Time to check that bottom or engine ward most nut I think.
-
I have the Mactools diesel pulse adapter and have been getting readings (TDC mark and RPM )that jumps around and not steady. I took a closeer look when the thumbscrew is tight around the line (not too tight) and there was no gap at all on the thumbscrew end (probably from over tightening by the PO). I proceeded to make a gap with a file to remove some of the aluminum and lo and behold, it reads steady as a rock now. I have to experiment with piezo placement on the 2 ends of the injection line and see what differences I get now that it is working well. Timing per the pulse adapter is around 14 deg BTDC, maybe a little more. I took a better video and will post later. I have been driving it for a few days now with the advanced timing and noticed going up the same 1/4 mile long hill in 5th gear, the EGT is about 200 degrees lower with more torque to make it up the hill without the need to downshift to 4th. Before I advanced the timing, EGT would creep up to 1100 to 1150 F at the top of the hill but now it creeps up to about 900F at the top of the hill. I am hoping this better running will translate to better fuel economy. I will know after a few tanks.
-
The Mac Tool that was loaned to me had to have the clamp modified as well by the owner. It really was meant for a 1/4 inch line and not the 6 mm ones we have on the IP. I had a Tiny Tach piezo on my lines and I tried that as well. It did a lot better job than that thumbscrew job on the Mac unit.
When I first started the dial measure compared to BTDC with the light I was running about 19 BTDC. It was a little naily but I think it got me better mileage that way. I was getting 34 in town, all stop and go. Didn't have a reason to test on the highway but now I think I get a bit less with it set at 15. Time and miles will tell.
I may have an injector fouling out as well because I see the blue cloud lightly run out the pipe and if I jump on it between 2nd and 3rd I see the same. Without a means to pop test my current injectors I will likely have to have a set rebuilt and replace all of them. Then rebuild or have the shop test the others and rebuild what is needed.
Good luck on the tweaking. Or is it considered Mods or Eco.
-
The Mac Tool that was loaned to me had to have the clamp modified as well by the owner. It really was meant for a 1/4 inch line and not the 6 mm ones we have on the IP. I had a Tiny Tach piezo on my lines and I tried that as well. It did a lot better job than that thumbscrew job on the Mac unit.
When I first started the dial measure compared to BTDC with the light I was running about 19 BTDC. It was a little naily but I think it got me better mileage that way. I was getting 34 in town, all stop and go. Didn't have a reason to test on the highway but now I think I get a bit less with it set at 15. Time and miles will tell.
I may have an injector fouling out as well because I see the blue cloud lightly run out the pipe and if I jump on it between 2nd and 3rd I see the same. Without a means to pop test my current injectors I will likely have to have a set rebuilt and replace all of them. Then rebuild or have the shop test the others and rebuild what is needed.
Good luck on the tweaking. Or is it considered Mods or Eco.
1/4" is 6.35 mm so if the MacTools piezo clamp is really made for 1/4" line I see why it's fitting loose. If I continue to have problems I will shim it with lock tumbler shim stock which is very thin stainless and is already curved. Do you have a pic of your Tiny Tach piezo?
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee150/maintenanceguy/shim_in_lock.jpg)
Too bad I hadn't fixed the jumpy diesel pulse adapter and get a good reading of the timing with the light before I advanced the pump. I had it timed 2 years ago to factory spec (1.05 iirc) using a dial indicator.
-
Here's a video of the current timing. How many degrees before TDC does that look like to you?
CLICK TO PLAY!
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/th_20140622_134053_zps0edc7341.jpg) (http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/20140622_134053_zps0edc7341.mp4)
-
Boy that is one jumpy video. Took me a couple of times watching it to figure out what was where. If I had to guess, and that is what you are asking me to do, I'd go 10 BTDC. The center of the pointer seems to be just in front of the 12 degree tab so that is what I'd call it.
Tiny Tach picture. Hmm Photobucket maybe? From the side and from the 45 degree angle. You can see that there are two hex head screws that do the clamping and there is a gap between the blocks as the clamp is tight to the pipe.
(http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j475/Orcoaster/IMG-20140511-00391_zps364e3422.jpg)
(http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j475/Orcoaster/IMG-20140511-00392_zps8ec25b83.jpg)
-
If the green mark is 12o, I'd say the timing is a tooth or two ahead of that... 16o-18o BTDC
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1a1AkC3WWjo/U6ltIlaznvI/AAAAAAAABlI/5PZ50fJEHiU/s800/92ECO-strobe1.jpg)
-
Sorry about the jumpy video. I should have explained the orientation. You are watching as if you are standing in front of the car. The triangular pointer of the tranny housing opening would be on the left. 16 - 18 deg BTDC is very advanced. Does it sound that way? Can you hear a lot of diesel clatter?
-
I'd say you got some clatter. These IDIs almost always have some... I find the difference is how loud, which is kinda hard to tell on recordings due to auto record levels.
-
................
When I used the pulse adapter I placed the piezp pick up about 1/2 inch from the nut. I tried it at several other places back down the line but there were few choices to get it on and once I got close to the IP I started getting too much interference from other sources. Some say it picks up the swell in the line but I don't agree with that. Why? Because when I first was loaned the equipment I didn't have a proper advance type timing light but I did have the old school Sears light from the 70's with an inductive pick up. So I just clamped the pickup on a 1/4 inch bolt and hit it lightly with a screwdriver tip. That is all it took to make the timing light fire off. I believe the pickup senses mechanical pings.
........
I have similar experience as you and find the pulse adapter very sensitive. With the piezo clamped on a line and engine off, I can tap lightly on the line and I can get the strobe to flash (and the LED on the pulse adapter to flash). The piezo has a very wide output proportional to the mechanical force input and I am thinking the pulse adapter circuitry must be able to discriminate the higher output (line expansion) from the noise (adjacent cylinder firing and other vibrations). To give you an idea of the range of piezo's output, consider the piezo barbecue grill lighter, it can generate thousands of volts from a small hammer striking it when the trigger is pulled, yet will put out a few milli-volts when tapped lightly with a screw driver, which I have verified with an oscilloscope.
A large part of how well a diesel pulse adapter works is how good the circuitry is to filter and pick out (discriminate) the signal. I have looked at the raw piezo output while clamped around the injection line. It is a very wide and noisy signal if you can call it a signal at all.
-
Interesting that ORCoaster sees it at 10 deg BTDC and TylerDurden sees it at 16 to 18 deg BTDC. With the orientation I just explained, can you look at it again and explain how you arrived at it?
-
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1a1AkC3WWjo/U6ltIlaznvI/AAAAAAAABlI/5PZ50fJEHiU/s800/92ECO-strobe1.jpg)
That's the 12o BTDC mark, right?
-
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1a1AkC3WWjo/U6ltIlaznvI/AAAAAAAABlI/5PZ50fJEHiU/s800/92ECO-strobe1.jpg)
That's the 12o BTDC mark, right?
Yes
-
I thought green was TDC and the grayish block near the center pointer was the 12 degree tab on the flywheel. Not true???
-
I thought green was TDC and the grayish block near the center pointer was the 12 degree tab on the flywheel. Not true???
The green mark in the video is the 12 degree tab. If I hit the advance button on the timing light, the green tab moves towards the center pointer (towards the radiator). In the video, is my timing too far advanced or too far retarded? I do not hear any nailing but then my hearing is not very good.
I will keep driving it at the current setting and see what the MPG will be, then adjust the IP and see which direction I have to turn it to line up the green 12 deg BTDC mark to the center pointer.
-
Currently, you can hit the advance button on the light until the mark is centered and it will indicate where the IP is set now.
To set the timing to a desired value, your timing light should be set to the desired advance minus 12 (since you have a mark at +12). Then turn the IP to center the mark. ( e.g. if you want 15 BTDC, set the light for +3)
-
Given that the green line is 12 degrees BTDC and you are at that same distance from the center pointer tab in the well I would give a second guess that you are closer to 22 BTDC. You should be able to roll your advance to figure out exactly when the line for 12 matches the center pointer. The extra degrees will give you the reading as described by TD.
Should rotate the pump towards the engine to make it line up better and stop nailing as you say it is doing. I believe it as mine was running +19 for a bit and sounded nasty. I couldn't even claim its just a diesel!
-
Press the advance button until the TDC mark is right under the bell housing pointer then look at the reading. No need for any other marks or math.
-
Press the advance button until the TDC mark is right under the bell housing pointer then look at the reading. No need for any other marks or math.
I will try that thanks. Do you know how the advance function works on these timing lights? I assume it puts a incremental delay into the firing of the strobe light as you push the advance button. But it must know when and how much of a delay to put in based on calculation from RPM.
-
Not specifically. I would assume it takes the time of the last two pulses, divides by 360, multiplies by the degrees of advance and delays the strobe by that amount of time.
-
I continue to be plagued by a non repeatable reading in the same spot. The lines are kinda rusty and I did clean them with 400 grit paper but there was still a little bit of rust left. It looked clean enough for a good enough electrical connection. WRONG! I cleaned it some more till it was shiny (for both the clamp and ground) and tried the pulse adapter again and it was much better. I won't call it success until I can get repeatable steady readings.
Note: The inner aluminum circle on the clamp is the ground for the piezo sensor so it must make good electrical contact to the line since the alligator clip ground is clipped to the line next to the clamp. Both have to be clean enough for a good electrical connection.
Anyway this video was taken after the latest line cleaning and with the strobe advanced 4.6 degress, the 12 degree green tab is lined up with the pointer in the opening. So my timing is at 16.6 degree BTDC. It does not sound overly clattery to my ears nor do I hear any nailing. I will get the dial indicator out and get some readings and correspondence to the pusle adapter.
CLICK TO PLAY!
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/th_20140625_150945_zps9ffe1a19.jpg) (http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/20140625_150945_zps9ffe1a19.mp4)
-
My money is on 95 mm @ 20 degrees BTDC. Let's see how close I am. Just looking at my chart of dial mm to degrees BTDC. That is where I was at the start of my comparison exercise. I put it back a few degrees just to see what that would do for MPGs.
-
Why do you think it's @ 20 deg BTDC when the timing light says it's @ 16.6 BTDC? Am I using the advance feature wrong?
-
Let me kick myself for that! Let's just say I think you will be measuring 95 mm on the dial. You are are 16.6 degrees but even those lights can be off you know. Get a buddy to measure it with another and you likely will see a different measure. It's an electronic thing and calibration kills on them. Good brands have high standards to meet and knock offs, not saying your light is one, but those tools just plain don't measure up. No pun intended, but it came out anyway.
So measure with a dial indicator and let us know. My quarter sits on the 95 square. Just because I think that is where it will be. Remember my earlier guess of 22 degrees was wrong by nearly 6 degrees.
-
I assume it puts a incremental delay into the firing of the strobe light as you push the advance button. But it must know when and how much of a delay to put in based on calculation from RPM.
One degree adjustment might delay strobe by 1/720 pulse interval. Two crank rotations per pulse...
-
Let me kick myself for that! Let's just say I think you will be measuring 95 mm on the dial. You are are 16.6 degrees but even those lights can be off you know. Get a buddy to measure it with another and you likely will see a different measure. It's an electronic thing and calibration kills on them. Good brands have high standards to meet and knock offs, not saying your light is one, but those tools just plain don't measure up. No pun intended, but it came out anyway.
So measure with a dial indicator and let us know. My quarter sits on the 95 square. Just because I think that is where it will be. Remember my earlier guess of 22 degrees was wrong by nearly 6 degrees.
I'll see what I get with the dial indicator. I hope you're wrong that these inductive timing lights are all different calibration wise. What good are they if true?
As for your chart on the other thread, you are getting a diesel pulse adapter timing of 15 deg BTDC with the dial indicator timing from 0.70 to 0.80 mm. 0.70 to 0.80 mm is retarded from spec. I thought 12 deg BTDC (as Libby reported the best MPG timing) is obtained with the timing advanced a little beyond spec? Something is not right.
-
Pop pressures gotta be spec to get spec dial readings.
(Just because the sticker said 10 degrees in 1979, doesn't mean every other year was the same. ME and MF engines have the same pop pressures and camplates but the timing spec is different.)
-
I wonder if the different timing specs was to match the pollution requirements that changed from year to year?
-
(Just because the sticker said 10 degrees in 1979, doesn't mean every other year was the same. ME and MF engines have the same pop pressures and camplates but the timing spec is different.)
CK ('79 diesel), ME and MF injectors all have very different pop pressures. Where have you found that VW released a different spec in degrees BTDC for those three engines? Have you compared the camplates from those three pumps?
-
CK - 120-130 bar
ME - 130-138 bar
MF - 155-163 bar
I find they run MUCH smoother if you get all four injectors within 1 bar of each other.
-
I assume it puts a incremental delay into the firing of the strobe light as you push the advance button. But it must know when and how much of a delay to put in based on calculation from RPM.
One degree adjustment might delay strobe by 1/720 pulse interval. Two crank rotations per pulse...
You are correct about that. Thanks.
-
You're right on those pops... I don't know where I saw the ME and MF grouped @ 135 with the 1V @155. :-\
I have measured the camplates.
-
(Just because the sticker said 10 degrees in 1979, doesn't mean every other year was the same. ME and MF engines have the same pop pressures and camplates but the timing spec is different.)
Where have you found that VW released a different spec in degrees BTDC for those three engines?
I have measured the camplates.
You found the camplate from the '79 (1.5) to be exactly same as the ones from the non-turbo and turbo 1.6 pumps? I haven't yet measured the camplate for the 1.5 but find that information startling. Did you measure both the overall height and the shape? What method of measuring did you use? Did your method account for placement of the start, max height and end of the humps relative to the pin in the camplate?
-
What you need to know about the chart I share is that is for my IP, rebuilt after gaskets started cracking. I have run WVO through it and the pressure is at 43 psi at idle. I am not sure why the lower end of the pulse adapter isn't getting down to the 12 mark. That is where I was expecting it to go. I even measured it several times and really retarded the pump to see if I could get it to go lower but no dice.
So take it with a big grain of sea salt and kelp. I only can chart the numbers I measured. Not going to skew data like some researchers just to make a pretty line. That is why the trend line is in there. But again it does seem odd to cross the Y axis on the left side at the wrong point.
I have no idea what my pops are, and it is like really, really bothering me. Might be time to spend some coin and get them done again. But I am spending it on some welding of the exhaust pipe instead. There is always something on a VW that will take your money to make it run.
-
I have found that advanced to the point that it runs poorly and retarded to the point that it runs poorly, the movement of the pump and the strobe position is directly related. In other words, if I rotate the body of the pump a degree, the pulse moves a degree. This is advanced to 20ish BTDC and advanced to TDCish. I haven't gotten the protractor out, to make sure of the 1:1 relationship but it sure seems that way. I've seen this consistent behavior on 30ish pumps. Orcoaster, it sounds like you have some weirdness going on with either you pulse adapter, your timing light, your pump or your injectors.
-
The injectors are my bet. The other three tested out fine. The injectors have not been rebuilt to my knowledge but they did come off a head of good reput. So saving pop cans and beer bottles for the day I can have the coin to take them up to Portland or Eugene for a redo.
Or buy on line and hope they are within a few bars of one another. That is why I lean to the shop side of doing that work. I can tell them what I want and pay accordingly. On line, crap shoot as far as I can tell. Anyone have good luck with the unknown supplier on line?
-
I have found that advanced to the point that it runs poorly and retarded to the point that it runs poorly, the movement of the pump and the strobe position is directly related. In other words, if I rotate the body of the pump a degree, the pulse moves a degree. This is advanced to 20ish BTDC and advanced to TDCish. I haven't gotten the protractor out, to make sure of the 1:1 relationship but it sure seems that way. I've seen this consistent behavior on 30ish pumps. Orcoaster, it sounds like you have some weirdness going on with either you pulse adapter, your timing light, your pump or your injectors.
Maybe I am having similar issues. On your timing light, do you get correct, rock steady RPM reading? I don't on mine, if I switch from strobe to RPM, I get a good reading for a while and it may then double in value and sometimes disappears (goes to zero). It does not affect the strobe, which always flashes, and does not seem to matter if in 2 or 4 cyl mode (for strobe). In strobe mode, do you find a difference whether in 2 or 4 cyl ?
Of the 30ish pumps you have adjusted timing on, they were all able to be adjusted to 12 deg BTDC without fuss? Of those 30ish engines, did you measure injector pop pressures and internal IP fuel pressure before doing the diesel pulse adapter adjustment?
What kind of prep do you do to the injector line before putting the piezo clamp on? How tight or loose do you adjust the clamp and is it very sensitive to adjustment?
-
The strobe flashes are usually not perfectly 100%, but very close to it. RPM is rock solid on mine. I believe I have the same timing light model as in your videos. My pulse adapter is Snap-On and an earlier model than the one they currently sell. Just to be clear, the 2/4 button is 'cycle' not 'cylinder'. The number of strobe flashes will be the same either way, but the rpm and advance will be half/double if set wrong. If both pump and injectors are dual stage it may need to be set to 2, but I can tell visually if the strobe is flashing at both the flywheel 0 and 180 or just at the 0.
The injection line must be clean and shiny. If it isn't, the pulse reading will be very erratic. If the lines need it, I sand a patch of line right by the #1 injector for both the pickup and the ground connection.
All the pumps I have dealt with have adjusted without undo fuss. I have not adjusted them on 30 different engines. The vast majority have been installed on eithe my AHU mTDI Vanagon or my 1.6TD Rabbit. I have checked the first stage on the AHU injectors and have callibrated the injectors on the 1.6TD so they are very close in break pressure. Many of those pumps were new and so the internal pressure did not require adjustment. I have adjusted the internal pressure when needed, but do not find that it affects the idle timing unless it is too high because at idle pressure, the advance plunger should be resting on its stop.
-
Yes "cycle", not "cyl", which makes no sense. I did set the injector pop and internal pump pressures to spec a few years ago. I will check them again and clean the inj. line better and try again. I don't think the issues I am having are timing light related.
Last time I tried to use my pop tester (Ford Rotunder commercial unit), I couldn't get it primed. Replaced the o-ring and still wouldn't prime. It has a big fuel reservoir on the base and must work against gravity to prime itself. I will try to rig up an external reservoir above the pump to gravity feed it and see if that works.
-
Did you measure both the overall height and the shape? What method of measuring did you use?
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=33196.0
-
That is a nice way to test the camplate. It does show the NA and TD camplates to be the same. It does not show anything about the 1.5 camplate. Have your comments in this thread and elsewhere implying/stating that VW used different start-of-injection timing specs been solely based on the erroneous belief that the break pressures were the same between the 1.6 TD and NA engines?
-
CK - 120-130 bar
ME - 130-138 bar
MF - 155-163 bar
I find they run MUCH smoother if you get all four injectors within 1 bar of each other.
My engine is 1V, same pop as MF
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/20140627_160927_zps683dbd54.jpg) (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Ecodiesel92/media/20140627_160927_zps683dbd54.jpg.html)
-
Did you measure both the overall height and the shape? What method of measuring did you use?
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=33196.0
I remember that! I just checked my Eco pump has max cam plate lift of 2.55 mm, agrees with your finding.
-
Checked the IP internal fuel pressure. Still ok at 45 psi at idle.
CLICK TO PLAY!
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/th_20140627_175824_zps4827e687.jpg) (http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/20140627_175824_zps4827e687.mp4)
-
I got the dial indicator out and my timing was at 1.36 mm!
I sanded the injection line more with 400 grit paper and tried the timing piezo again and was able to get steady RPM and strobe readings. I retarded the timing to just a hair more than 12 deg BTDC and at this setting, the dial indicator says it's at 1.06 mm.
CLICK TO PLAY!
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/th_20140627_185207_zps974f7wwu.jpg) (http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/20140627_185207_zps974f7wwu.mp4)
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/20140628_133650_zps89520ebe.jpg) (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Ecodiesel92/media/20140628_133650_zps89520ebe.jpg.html)
-
I am borrowing Orcoaster's nice chart below, which indicates he is getting very different results with his diesel pulse adapter. For me, at 12 deg BTDC, my dial indicator says 1.06 mm timing. Orcoaster's chart says at 1.05 mm, it's near 21 deg BTDC! Why is there such a big discrepancy?
(http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j475/Orcoaster/DieselTimings_zps2620e09b.jpg)
-
I think most likely his injector(s) is(are) crap and starts peeing a stream when it shouldn't, which the pulse adapter reads as the pulse. I've said that his results were very much at odds w/ my experience on a whole lot of injection pumps and that something wasn't right with his readings.
Your results very well match mine. Stock 155 bar injectors in decent tune with a stock pump in good tune - 12°=1.05.
-
Still haven't emptied enough bottles to get the rebuilds done. I sent the pulse adapter back but I could swap and injector on the one I tested to see if it drastically changes the timing. Might do that once the exhaust gets welded up. For now the engine needs to be quiet and not disturb the neighbors.