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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: ftm1776 on May 20, 2014, 08:15:58 pm
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Does someone make an Injector Type Adapter for compression testing the VW 1.6 non-turbo diesel engine?
My car is a 1991 MK2 with the 1.6 engine. I'm the original owner.
Otherwise, the glow plug type adapter would require the removal of the injection pump.....I think.
What size is the injector thread on this engine???
Comments please.
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Yes - the cheap Harbor Freight compression tester has a fitting that will work with these engines via the injector hole. I don't know the actual size but it's the same as Mercedes and the 6.2/6.5L GM diesels.
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OK. I see the tester....#93644 is the one I'm looking at.....about $30.
I noticed that the one shown on the HF webpage has "12 pieces" and the one shown on the attached PDF of the 93644 Owner Manual has about 19 pieces. I'll have to check this out at Harbor Freight. Model specs seem to have changed. Just wondering if it still fits my mechanical diesel????
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Most likely. The GMC 6.2/6.5L engines are so insanely common in North America it'd be suicide not to support them.
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The injector adapter in the center of the HF pic is the one for vw/mercedes idi. Hansautoparts sells the exact same gauge and adaptor.
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a550/sgnimj96/16CompressionAdapter_zps6f1f271b.jpg) (http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/sgnimj96/media/16CompressionAdapter_zps6f1f271b.jpg.html)
Pressure relief valve on the gauge barely works on mine , had to press it a bunch of times- may have got a bad one... but it got the job done
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The injector adapter in the center of the HF pic is the one for vw/mercedes idi. Hansautoparts sells the exact same gauge and adaptor.
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a550/sgnimj96/16CompressionAdapter_zps6f1f271b.jpg) (http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/sgnimj96/media/16CompressionAdapter_zps6f1f271b.jpg.html)
Pressure relief valve on the gauge barely works on mine , had to press it a bunch of times- may have got a bad one... but it got the job done
That's the wrong adaptor, or if deemed correct, will give bad results... :o
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That's the wrong adaptor, or if deemed correct, will give bad results... :o
[/quote]
really? I bought the HF kit and used that in my 1.6 na , but it's an '82 CR engine
The picture is from http://www.hansautoparts.com/16CompressionFitting.aspx
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That's the correct one, but shown above without proper pieces...
pic below shows req'd sleeve and washer
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6_jb_hCr9aI/UsJcSzU7GVI/AAAAAAAABZs/ergzHT2zCrQ/s800/CompressionAdapter.jpg)
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Wow, didn't know I needed the extra stuff. I guess it sealed with just the threads, hope I didn't scratch up anything in the prechamber. HF tester doesn't really have instructions. Thanks!
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HF adapter does need collar around the part that actually threads into the engine. In addition to that collar I put the copper washer betwee the collar and the adapter body. So I have the heatshield to the collar and then the washer and then the adapter. HF kit I have has a bunch of ways you can get the flow from the adapter to the quick connect. I like to keep the compression from having to build in the hose so I try to keep the part with the valve in it as close to the adapter as possible. Like in the picture. But there are 90 degree take offs and longer parts if you need em. My Kit is the 93644 one, plenty of pieces in the red box. The compression release works fine so perhaps yours needs more use or a bit of silicone spray.
Not using the collar probably only cut a few lbs off the reading on the gauge. Without the volume taken up by the metal the compressed air would have filled that volume instead. But I doubt you would see it.
I like that kit and if it is off a few lbs in measurement so what. You are measuring all the different cylinders with the same equipment and comparing the values to one another any hoo.
Just my contribution to the cause or confusion.
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HF adapter does need collar around the part that actually threads into the engine. In addition to that collar I put the copper washer betwee the collar and the adapter body. So I have the heatshield to the collar and then the washer and then the adapter. HF kit I have has a bunch of ways you can get the flow from the adapter to the quick connect. I like to keep the compression from having to build in the hose so I try to keep the part with the valve in it as close to the adapter as possible. Like in the picture. But there are 90 degree take offs and longer parts if you need em. My Kit is the 93644 one, plenty of pieces in the red box. The compression release works fine so perhaps yours needs more use or a bit of silicone spray.
Not using the collar probably only cut a few lbs off the reading on the gauge. Without the volume taken up by the metal the compressed air would have filled that volume instead. But I doubt you would see it.
I like that kit and if it is off a few lbs in measurement so what. You are measuring all the different cylinders with the same equipment and comparing the values to one another any hoo.
Just my contribution to the cause or confusion.
Ah the universal adaptor pieces were not on display, to make it universal ;D.
At a guess I'd say that coller if missing would account for upwards of 1 cc.
As it's below the one way valve, it would fill up and discharge as part of the engine chamber every stroke. Further guessing, I'd say that that was approaching +15% of the compression chamber, or nearing 75psi on a good day...
Not crucial if you are just comparing cylinders, but might wrongly influence someone to embark on a $2000 rebuild if they believed the score.
Interestingly I use a standard injector bottom with nozzle holder and needle but leave out the needle thrust plate, and pack adaptor gaps with lead:o
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Interestingly I use a standard injector bottom with nozzle holder and needle but leave out the needle thrust plate, and pack adaptor gaps with lead:o[/color]
Where is your Schraeder valve and how did you install it? What gaps were packed with lead? I was thinking of using an old injector body/nozzle to make a compression adapter but have not actually started on it yet.
Btw, if you look into the tip of the HF injector adapter, it has a cavity leading up to the Schraeder valve. That cavity's volume is much greater than the volume of the adapter ring/copper washer.
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Go to prothe, buy his guage and adapter for like $20. Done deal.
I've had mine since 2008, works perfectly, and tests out against snap-on units too. A machined piece of metal, a hose and a gauge are not things that can be screwed up anymore... no matter what country they were manufactured in.
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Go to prothe, buy his guage and adapter for like $20. Done deal.
I've had mine since 2008, works perfectly, and tests out against snap-on units too. A machined piece of metal, a hose and a gauge are not things that can be screwed up anymore... no matter what country they were manufactured in.
Is the Prothe adapter a solid hunk of steel with the Schrader at the tip? If so I am buying one.
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I don't think a schrader is up to the task... 500psi? The HF fitting is a high pressure coupler that connects to the hose with a locking collar.
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Go to prothe, buy his guage and adapter for like $20.
8v-0f-fury,
Who or what is "prothe"??
HF adapter does need collar around the part that actually threads into the engine. In addition to that collar I put the copper washer between the collar and the adapter body. So I have the heatshield to the collar and then the washer and then the adapter.
ORCoaster,
Where did you get the copper washer? Why did you use it?? Is it necessary to use it, in your opinion?
I think I under stand that the compressed chamber volume must be the same when testing as when the injector is in place. Although the "volume" of the collar is small, it's presence does add or subtract substantially to or from the compressed volume thereby affecting the compression reading. I suppose that one could take a compression reading with and without the adapter just to see what difference it might make.
So, does the HF kit have every thing I need?
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I don't think a schrader is up to the task... 500psi? The HF fitting is a high pressure coupler that connects to the hose with a locking collar.
The quick coupler serves a different function than the Schraeder valve (tire valve), which is necessary in all compression testers to hold the pressure within the compression tester.
(https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcS3T7nCWXNtq8A29pWoQHnwWCK-G6Qo_XSk1NzoF7n2csvhp3gbdA)
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Some pics of my HF injector adapter, the Prothe one is supposed to be the same.
You can stick a pencil in the hole about 1.5". Not visible, the Schraeder valve is at the tip of the silver colored quick coupler. That is a lot of extra volume which will lower the compression reading by a lot. I never use that injector adapter for that reason. I go in the glow plug hole.
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/20140522_141513_zpst8c6eykx.jpg) (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Ecodiesel92/media/20140522_141513_zpst8c6eykx.jpg.html)
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/20140522_141526_zps2ekvd90z.jpg) (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Ecodiesel92/media/20140522_141526_zps2ekvd90z.jpg.html)
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The kit has the copper washer in it. One of the 19 pcs If I remember correctly.
I use that to get a good and proper seal between the roughly cast adapter and the collar. Crude casting but functional. Same reason we use copper between the fuel line to fuel pump fittings.
I wouldn't think you would see that much of a difference in values with or without the collar but I would love to see the results. Kind of reference this Schraeder valve discussion as well. So do a measure or three with the injector body all properly installed, all the parts in place then pull the collar out of the mix. Then measure in GP hole for comparison purposes. Could be very enlightening.
HF adapter does need collar around the part that actually threads into the engine. In addition to that collar I put the copper washer between the collar and the adapter body. So I have the heatshield to the collar and then the washer and then the adapter.
ORCoaster,
Where did you get the copper washer? Why did you use it?? Is it necessary to use it, in your opinion?
I think I under stand that the compressed chamber volume must be the same when testing as when the injector is in place. Although the "volume" of the collar is small, it's presence does add or subtract substantially to or from the compressed volume thereby affecting the compression reading. I suppose that one could take a compression reading with and without the adapter just to see what difference it might make.
So, does the HF kit have every thing I need?
Mark I can't believe you said this:
As it's below the one way valve, it would fill up and discharge as part of the engine chamber every stroke. Further guessing, I'd say that that was approaching +15% of the compression chamber, or nearing 75psi on a good day...
Not crucial if you are just comparing cylinders, but might wrongly influence someone to embark on a $2000 rebuild if they believed the score.
1600 cc engine /4cylinders =400 cc per 1/400=? .0025 or .25% not even close to 15%. So if you are trying to measure 600 PSI and you are off .25% can you detect that on the face of the gauge? That is 1.5 lbs, I can't differentiate that on my gauge at all. Given the increments are much greater than 1 lb or even 5 lbs apart.
Mountain of a molehill I say.
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You are measuring the wrong volume.
The compression test is measuring the pressure with the piston at the top of the cylinder. The only unfilled volume is the inside of the prechamber and a tiny bit above the piston. The volume of the adapter is a substantial portion of the prechamber.
Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk
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The kit has the copper washer in it. One of the 19 pcs If I remember correctly.
I use that to get a good and proper seal between the roughly cast adapter and the collar. Crude casting but functional. Same reason we use copper between the fuel line to fuel pump fittings.
I wouldn't think you would see that much of a difference in values with or without the collar but I would love to see the results. Kind of reference this Schraeder valve discussion as well. So do a measure or three with the injector body all properly installed, all the parts in place then pull the collar out of the mix. Then measure in GP hole for comparison purposes. Could be very enlightening.
HF adapter does need collar around the part that actually threads into the engine. In addition to that collar I put the copper washer between the collar and the adapter body. So I have the heatshield to the collar and then the washer and then the adapter.
ORCoaster,
Where did you get the copper washer? Why did you use it?? Is it necessary to use it, in your opinion?
I think I under stand that the compressed chamber volume must be the same when testing as when the injector is in place. Although the "volume" of the collar is small, it's presence does add or subtract substantially to or from the compressed volume thereby affecting the compression reading. I suppose that one could take a compression reading with and without the adapter just to see what difference it might make.
So, does the HF kit have every thing I need?
Mark I can't believe you said this:
As it's below the one way valve, it would fill up and discharge as part of the engine chamber every stroke. Further guessing, I'd say that that was approaching +15% of the compression chamber, or nearing 75psi on a good day...
Not crucial if you are just comparing cylinders, but might wrongly influence someone to embark on a $2000 rebuild if they believed the score.
1600 cc engine /4cylinders =400 cc per 1/400=? .0025 or .25% not even close to 15%. So if you are trying to measure 600 PSI and you are off .25% can you detect that on the face of the gauge? That is 1.5 lbs, I can't differentiate that on my gauge at all. Given the increments are much greater than 1 lb or even 5 lbs apart.
Mountain of a molehill I say.
LOL...
The collar [spelt it correctly this time!] does indeed have little impact on the cc of the cylinder. This is great if a compression tester operated @BDC, but alas they operate @TDC when the space above the piston is only about 6 cc to give your 23:1. Wait that's wrong, (400 + X): X :: 23:1 So if X is air space above cylinder swept, (400 +18)18 is 23.2 . So it's about 5%, if collar is 1cc. OK so it's nearer 25psi. However a poor adaptor adds plenty more.
My tester is a Snap-on similar to below. There is a pressure relief valve up near the gauge, but there is also a brass to brass one way valve down near the adapter. A shriver valve, unless purpose built would struggle because of the plastic seal. Someone volumize the collar and washer to help my in my defense ;D
EDIT my post was a little slow, and has been replicated...
http://buy1.snapon.com/products/diagnostics/mt33c.asp?tool=all&Item_id=16694&PartNo=MT33C&Price=240.3&Desc=&SUB_Cat_ID=3057049&SUB_Cat_NAME=Diesel+Compression&Cat_ID=3057045&Cat_NAME=Fuel+And+Engine+Systems&group_id=1429&group_NAME=Gauge&store=canada&dir=catalog&pix=objects%2F33900%2F33813.JPG&email=true
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Collar + copper washer is necessary to get a good seal so it does not leak past the threads. The
collar dimensions:
0.44" H
0.67" o.d.
0.555" i.d.
volume 0.74 cubic centimeters
empty space in adapter dimensions:
1.6" deep
0,33" i.d.
volume=2.24 cc
Someone check my math.
total extra volume 2.98 cc
What's the difference in cc from a 1 notch to a 3 notch head gasket? Is it less than 2.98 cc?
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http://www.hansautoparts.com/DieselCompressionGauge.aspx
http://www.hansautoparts.com/16CompressionFitting.aspx
$16 total. Seriosuly, it works perfectly..
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Collar
(.67/2)2 * 3.14 = 0.3523865in2
- ((.555/2)2 * 3.14 = 0.241799625in2)
= 0.110586875in2
X .44" = 0.048658225in3
0.048658225in3 = .797365447 cc
Cavity
(.33/2)2 * 3.14 = 0.0854865in2
0.0854865in2 * 1.6 = 0.1367784in3
0.1367784in3 = 2.24139639cc
total = 3.038761837cc
1notch max piston protrusion = .86mm
3notch max piston protrusion = 1.02mm
difference = .16mm
cyl diameter 77mm (2nd overbore)
((77/2)2 *3.14) * .16 = 744.6824mm3
744.6824mm3 = .744cc
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Not visible, the Schraeder valve is at the tip of the silver colored quick coupler.
I'll be damned.... I never looked down there.
(Reminds me of a joke. 8) )
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I like math but was just going to take the washer and adapter out of my kit and drop them in a known amount of water to see what overflowed and measure that with a small syringe. That is not necessary now. thanks.
Still would like to see the measurements on the cylinder pressure.
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http://www.hansautoparts.com/DieselCompressionGauge.aspx
http://www.hansautoparts.com/16CompressionFitting.aspx
$16 total. Seriosuly, it works perfectly..
You did not answer my question. If it is the same as the HF adapter, it has a serious fault.
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........
My tester is a Snap-on similar to below. There is a pressure relief valve up near the gauge, but there is also a brass to brass one way valve down near the adapter. A shriver valve, unless purpose built would struggle because of the plastic seal. Someone volumize the collar and washer to help my in my defense ;D
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A shriver valve? Never heard of one. More details please!
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....
Still would like to see the measurements on the cylinder pressure.
With the known extra volume created by the poorly designed adapter, the difference in compression can be calculated.
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Collar
(.67/2)2 * 3.14 = 0.3523865in2
- ((.555/2)2 * 3.14 = 0.241799625in2)
= 0.110586875in2
X .44" = 0.048658225in3
0.048658225in3 = .797365447 cc
Cavity
(.33/2)2 * 3.14 = 0.0854865in2
0.0854865in2 * 1.6 = 0.1367784in3
0.1367784in3 = 2.24139639cc
total = 3.038761837cc
1notch max piston protrusion = .86mm
3notch max piston protrusion = 1.02mm
difference = .16mm
cyl diameter 77mm (2nd overbore)
((77/2)2 *3.14) * .16 = 744.6824mm3
744.6824mm3 = .744cc
My numbers are close. I did it while watching TV, using an online volume calculator which round off the numbers entered.
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So what is the consensus here????
Can I just use the HF injector adapter, as is, and get useful results?? Can I just add, say 50 psi, to my reading and get a good ballpark figure??? I just had a shop give me figures of 400, 400, 360, 460 for cylinders 1 through 4. They said the low #3 might just be an odd reading from valve seat carbon; so drive it and see if it clears up.....so I'd like to do the test myself rather than take it back $$$$$$.
I understand your discussion of how the small volume of the chamber is affected by what is added when using the injector adapter.
I have the "newest" #93644 HF kit. It has 21 pieces including 2 injector adapters and 2 copper washers. I will get some photos up soon. One could not fit a standard wooden pencil into it as we see above. The diameter has been reduced. The hole on the non-threaded end is only about 3/16 inch in diameter. It seems to me that the unwanted volumes could be mostly plugged with small diameter plastic tubing or washers under the Shrader valve to minimize erroneous compression reading. How about filling it with something like epoxy and drilling a hole through it??????????? Someone mentioned filling it with lead?????
Besides, doesn't the volume of the hose also add to the volume of the TDC position???? Do we have to add that in also???
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I use what must be a HF adapter... it came with one of my cars. I'm not too concerned, but the discussion raises some interesting questions.
The volume of the cavity in the adapter could be compensated for by the gauge, but I doubt a HF tester would be that clever.
WRT the hose: I believe since the check-valve is at the beginning of the hose, after a couple of strokes the hose is at cylinder pressure and its volume is no longer a factor in the reading.
A calibration check of the HF tester would be best, but until there is a comparison, I'd add 50psi as a guesstimate.
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Here's the 93644 HF kit purchased in Portland, OR on 05/22/14. All pieces showing.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5119/14272870933_3e4525d89e_z_d.jpg)
Here are the two injector adapters that come in the 93644 that I bought at HF on May 22, 2014. VW on right, of course.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5276/14066037199_092a8f48c2_z_d.jpg)
VW adapter bore. A standard wooden pencil will not fit in it. Opposite end has 1/8 NPT (5/16" bore)for the "Schrader" valve. Total adapter length is 2"; 3/4" @ 5/16 and 1 1/4" @ 3/16".
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2905/14229543336_455d3a20e9_z_d.jpg)
Tyler, I concur that once the hose is pressurized and sealed off by the Schrader, it should not add to the TDC volume nor affect the pressure reading for our purposes. Good point.
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^That's a lot of kit.
Reducing the bore might be useful, but I'd just calculate the extra volume and add the resulting value to the reading.
IIRC, the combustion chamber volume is around 17.3cc. Well hell...
((76.5mm/2)2 * 3.14) * 86.4mm = 397cc
397/23 = 17.3cc
Let's say the adapter volume is 2cc... 2/17.3 = 12%
400 * .12 = 48psi
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Yeah...all for $30 !!!
If I use it once, rather than taking the beast into the shop, it pays for more than itself.
Thanks for the calculation.............I just call it 50 for easy remembering.
I hope someone does the experiment to compare relative readings using combinations of components, injector or glow plug adapters, etc.
Probably easier to do with the pump off.
Say, I've changed the glow plugs, but I'm wondering if there is enough room in there to use the glow adapter rather than the injector adapter without taking the pump off.
Any comments????
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Yeah...all for $30 !!!
If I use it once, rather than taking the beast into the shop, it pays for more than itself.
Thanks for the calculation.............I just call it 50 for easy remembering.
I hope someone does the experiment to compare relative readings using combinations of components, injector or glow plug adapters, etc.
Probably easier to do with the pump off.
Say, I've changed the glow plugs, but I'm wondering if there is enough room in there to use the glow adapter rather than the injector adapter without taking the pump off.
Any comments????
Why don't you do the experiment? You have the HF kit. You only need to do it on one cyl for comparisin. Glow plug #4 is easy to access w/o removing IP.
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I was hoping someone would remind him of his task. Using the GP adapter is fine on the #4 cyl but it is actually easier to pull the injectors and measure. Beats taking the IP off. And yes one cylinder of comparison purposes is fine.
Just remember that when taking the injectors out or putting them in the you ALWAYS are pushing at the edge of the head and not pulling away from it. I have a really nice head in the shed but the injector boss on #1 is snapped off. Then replace the injectors with a slight dab of anti sieze for the next time you need to take them out.
Waiting on numbers.
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VW adapter bore. A standard wooden pencil will not fit in it. Opposite end has 1/8 NPT (5/16" bore)for the "Schrader" valve. Total adapter length is 2"; 3/4" @ 5/16 and 1 1/4" @ 3/16".
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2905/14229543336_455d3a20e9_z_d.jpg)
You must have a really fat standard wooden pencil ::) Maybe it's an optical illusion but pic of your ruler says the diameter of the hole is a little more than 3/8". 3/8 is 0.375". I measured mine with a vernier caliper at 0.33". I see no reason why HF would change their production machinery to make that hole smaller. Please measure yours with a vernier caliper.
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92EcoDiesel Jetta ,
Those are 1/16 inch graduations on the rule!!! They look pretty plump though in the photo!!!!
3/16 diameter bore
My thought was that it was redesigned to fill some more of the volume.
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Just remember that when taking the injectors out or putting them in the you ALWAYS are pushing at the edge of the head and not pulling away from it. I have a really nice head in the shed but the injector boss on #1 is snapped off. Then replace the injectors with a slight dab of anti sieze for the next time you need to take them out.
Waiting on numbers.
I'm not clear on your cautionary note above. Please clarify if you would. I have had the injectors out of my 78 Rabbit but that was a long time ago and so I appreciate you warning.
On my current car, which has recently had the injectors rebuilt by DFIS in Portland, OR, I see the copper anti-sieze that has squished out around each injector.
I'll try to get around to generating some numbers...............
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I'm not clear on your cautionary note above. Please clarify if you would. I have had the injectors out of my 78 Rabbit but that was a long time ago and so I appreciate you warning.
It's easy to break the threaded injector bosses by pulling the wrench handle toward the radiator. Better to push the handle toward the windshield and hold the extension steady with the other hand.
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I'm not clear on your cautionary note above. Please clarify if you would. I have had the injectors out of my 78 Rabbit but that was a long time ago and so I appreciate you warning.
It's easy to break the threaded injector bosses by pulling the wrench handle toward the radiator. Better to push the handle toward the windshield and hold the extension steady with the other hand.
I don't think pulling or pushing matters, what's important is adding an equal counter force on the other end. To be sure, use a T bar, or an impact gun.
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92EcoDiesel Jetta ,
Those are 1/16 inch graduations on the rule!!! They look pretty plump though in the photo!!!!
3/16 diameter bore
My thought was that it was redesigned to fill some more of the volume.
It is 1/16! So HF did decrease the bore so instead of 50 psi off, it is 30 psi off. They could have made the hole 1/16 so it's 5 psi off but that would mean using more steel.
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Tyler & 92 ECO,
I get it.............no side-load; only torque on the injector body.
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If the injectors have been out recently a T handle works fine but on some of these engines you are removing a part that has been in place for at least several decades. Think Barn find. I use a breaker bar and make sure I am positioned on the injector correctly and swing towards the engine or windsheild on the proper plane. I keep my left hand on the extension and socket, 27 mm, on the injector and give a short snap with my right on the breaker bar handle. I find all VW threads repond to a snap versus a slow increase in force to make then come free.
I think others have described it well enough for you.
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Be careful in snatching,snapping, yanking or jerking the injectors free. This is not a simple bolt in an infinitely strong block of material.
The injector is a lot stronger than the socket.
Using an air driver will work until you come across a n injector that has carbon up the threads, and then it will[may] strip the threads.
These issues show up as the freed injector immediately gets harder to turn again.
Do it manually. to and fro with solvent fluid. .
If they have not been out for a long time , use a penetrating fluid.
If you don't have a 'T' bar with extensions, use a breaker bar with two long extensions to the socket. this will give some sloppyness.
Best practice:
If you use a universal joint as first adapter on the injector socket you will all but remove any stray leverage and pass on near pure torque.
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When using an impact I always loosen, tighten, loosen, tighten the whole way out. I can usually tell by the noise my gun is making if the injector is getting harder to turn from carbon etc.
Actually I do the same no matter what tool I'm using.
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Just thought I would throw this into the mix to see what comments might be generated......
Just remember that checking compression through the glowplug hole on the head will give you lower readings than through the injector on any IDI diesel.On VW IDI's for example the glow pulg adapter test would give you a reading of 350 psi after 5 cranks and through the injector it would be 400 psi I,ve consistantly seen a 50 psi difference between the two tests.
This doesn't make sense to me if I understand the combustion chamber configuration correctly.
Comments, please.
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Just remember that checking compression through the glowplug hole on the head will give you lower readings than through the injector on any IDI diesel.On VW IDI's for example the glow pulg adapter test would give you a reading of 350 psi after 5 cranks and through the injector it would be 400 psi I,ve consistantly seen a 50 psi difference between the two tests.
I can't think of any good reason why... if the GP adapter has a check valve like the injector adapter. (Maybe he got it backwards?) :-\
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Just remember that checking compression through the glowplug hole on the head will give you lower readings than through the injector on any IDI diesel.On VW IDI's for example the glow pulg adapter test would give you a reading of 350 psi after 5 cranks and through the injector it would be 400 psi I,ve consistantly seen a 50 psi difference between the two tests.
I can't think of any good reason why... if the GP adapter has a check valve like the injector adapter. (Maybe he got it backwards?) :-\
Maybe he had two 'dedicated' gauges...
Or the dummy glowplug had no penis :o
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I'm going to check this out on #4 cylinder when I do my first compression check.......I vs GP adapters.
I can just see all holes filled.......8 gauges, wow !!!!