VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
General Information => General => Topic started by: Dakotakid on May 14, 2014, 07:00:12 pm
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Who runs their belt too tightly?
Young guys take note. Probably a good advertisement for oil pressure gauges.
Over the long haul, running a too-tight cam belt can be a costly muther.
Cause and effect. The oil pressure relief valve can only compensate so much.
(http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x338/Dakotakid1/020_zpsb859af03.jpg)
(http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x338/Dakotakid1/013_zpsb53ecdfb.jpg)
(http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x338/Dakotakid1/009_zps0db719d3.jpg)
(http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x338/Dakotakid1/016_zps6b54b846.jpg)
(http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x338/Dakotakid1/009_zps0db719d3.jpg)
I inherited this from helping my younger friend refurbish a Mk. I Jetta. We combined two cars to make one. I had dibs on the left-overs.
Funny thing, I took this car for a 17-mile drive the day we started parting it out and it ran seemingly fine. He said he thought it lost some power in the last year of running it (gulp....I suppose...).
One hint, was that it popped an oil filter two years before retirement. That was from pieces of the int. shaft babbit behind the pressure relief valve.
The fuel pump bushings (perhaps, NOT in the previous pump though) were and still are fine.
What I learned form this: any time you pop an oil filter....you probably are having int. shaft bearing problems. It was this way on every oil filter-popper I have seen.
I have cleaned up the crank. Re-ringing the block, and going in with all new bearings.
Just because something seems to run well (like if you go to buy one off Craiglist), doesn't mean it does not have problems.
However, it tends to answer the old question of WHICH bearings are most likely affected with too-low oil pressure?
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awesome show. I think we should all have fun and post this type of stuff
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awesome show. I think we should all have fun and post this type of stuff
yeah i love posts like this, or even in our group messages when blake posts all kinds of crazy stuff he works on. Even with my job i get to fix a lot of stuff that hospitals in house biomed departments took a crack at first, its insane what some people try to do haha.
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Phoenix from the ashes.
(http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x338/Dakotakid1/101_0782_zps81e54bd0.jpg)
(http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x338/Dakotakid1/101_0787_zps5de45402.jpg)
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Nothing runs like a Deere!
(And, NO....that ain't no retarded douche bottle hone job!)
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I would love to have that dip stick tube.
It looks as if you have done a real good job bringing it back to life. No lesser man bull crap here, this will be a fine specimen I am sure. Back to the carnage pics, I think this is why some burst filters and have insane cold oil pressure. When the relief valve sees so much of that IM bearing it wants to stick and does. Cold oil pressure goes nuts but when warm it doesn't have hardly any.
Please let us know how this runs when you get it in a car.
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You vant.....you got zee tube because I think Rob kept the top half!
Found another gasser set-up while crawling through the "secret stash" this week so this will work GREAT!
Also condemned a Mk. I manifold to the crusher (knowing there would never be a call for it)....and some "stick" runs an ad to buy one last night. Unreal. Life's luck in a nutshell!
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Sorry I thought it was a gasser tube. I need a gasser tube if you or anyone knows where to get one or the part number
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(http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x338/Dakotakid1/101_0798_zps64981f50.jpg)
Getting ready to go back to work.
(http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x338/Dakotakid1/001_zps09452d3a.jpg)
Never underestimate the value of some "holistic" Simple Green and some scratch pads and a few gallons of water (plus some touch-up paint) to clean up a well-over 500,000 mile engine bay.
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too clean for my liking. I would feel bad every time I drove it around my area. From what I have heard you can take the tire shine foam and coat the engine bay now, any time it gets dirty pressure wash it off and it will be this clean. Then reapply the tire foam so you can do it again. I haven't tried it but that is what car show guys have sworn to me works.
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Thinking of sticky what do you guys think?
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Gets my vote for a sticky.
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Flaking Intermediate shaft seals are faily common on older motors, and not entirely indicative of an over-tightened belt. It will however result in loss of oil pressure.
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Can you describe a "popped oil filter" ?
Does the oil filter gasket pop? Does the whole filter pop off? Does filter media pop? Does the filter blow up like a balloon?
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I've actually seen the latter happen! Not on one of these cars though.
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As the pressure relief valve is detrimentally held in place (by debris), the pressure skyrockets, and the resultant pressure can either:
1)blow out the large top-seal (between base and mount)
2) or the pressure will rip the canister seam (between the "can" and the flat base)
3) or it will actually blow the oil filter can up like a balloon and then usually shift to one side prior to the can splitting open.
THEN is when you now ask the question, "....how the hell do I clean THIS up?"
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This engine did NOT receive a new oil pump. As a matter of fact, I have only installed a new oil pump on one of the rebuilds I have done (and that was to ensure the "expensive machine shop" would still give me their warranty on their work.
The oil pump which is currently in this engine is the USED oil pump (from my pile of parts with totally unknown origin in this case) I gave to my friend back when the filter popped.
This pump has been thoroughly disassembled, checked for wear (which did not exist), and then I removed the oil pressure valve and deburred/cleaned it up with 1000 grit paper and also rotated 1000 grit in the valve body bore (as a primitive ream-job) to help ensure that valve stick would not happen to me.
You see, these pumps put out such an ample amount of oil that reducing the flow somewhat (by cleaning the relief valve) is NOT a problem. The problem occurs when your valve sticks and skyrockets the pressure. THIS is why a person who fits a larger pump to correct bearing destruction is only playing a game with himself. Much like urinating in a hurricane. But, to each his own.
The pump was reassembled and cotter-pinned closed with the aid of "Theman's" helpful pictures. If you do this, remember that you drill the hole for the cotter pin PRIOR to dis-assembly/removal of the valve and it's end-cap holder.
This engine now has about 1200 miles on it and runs like a molested Chihuahua. The exhaust ports received a healthy dose of porting and the exhaust downpipe and pipe and went to (only) 2 inch diameter. This honestly removed ALL turbo lag. I am very pleased with how this runs.