VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: DogDiesel on March 31, 2014, 12:54:20 pm
-
I messed up. My AAZ dipstick has a indented area, with hash marks for oil level, and on this change, it was up to the hump, maybe 4 CM above the full hash mark, and I was in a hurry, and thought it would not matter, just a little overfull. It would have taken 10 minutes to jack it up and drain. Calculated dumbass move on my part. I admit. I WAS WRONG (exclamation point !!)
Bottom line, is my OIL FILTER MOUNTING gasket is weeping now. From a dry engine to a wet engine.
Still driving it, but its a wet oil mess. Don't make the same mistake I made.
Part ordered. Will fix.
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=htkelcf33bpil4ej1dptuc55&makeid=800026@VW&modelid=1369379@GOLF TDI&year=1996&cid=20@Engine Parts, Seals %26 Gaskets&gid=5432@Oil Filter Gasket
-
4cm is quite a bit. That must have been a good ways past 5 liters?
-
4cm is quite a bit. That must have been a good ways past 5 liters?
Exactly what I was thinking. One cm is about a quart, so...
-
Yeah,
That 10 minutes compared to the $1.83 gasket and 30 minutes to change it is not time well spent. >:(
Another take away resulting from this -for those in the USA -- who cannot find AAZ parts; AutohauzAZ can get quite the majority of the AAZ parts you need. AAZ shows in their database for 96 Golf and Jetta. Good source. I generally order about $50 or more and take free shipping. I always keep several oil, fuel and air filters for my Caddy and Mercedes fleet as a result. 8)
Wayne
-
As a USA southern'er, whose natives quite often poke fun at themselves, I may have posted on this site a major fopah. Did a quick look at this sites membership last evening, and realized that the majority are from the upper latitudes in USA and lower Canada. My three decades in the Army's interaction with that populace should have told me not to admit my mistakes. Oh well that is water under the bridge...
Last evening, had an off line interaction with one of this sites members which prompted me to look at geographic membership. Realized my second mistake in this scenario beyond the oil level, the self-deprecation.
When in Rome, blend in, when in France.... Sorry, I will not post a self admittal again. I will blend in.
Wayne
-
Don't go to the dark side Wayne. Without mistakes and self-admitted blunders, how would we ever learn? All for ego-less humanity here and I'm a 'yankee' originally from Pittsburgh.
-
I got me Yank blood that has been seeped in the south and wash by the west ocean now. Not to proud to admit a mistake and not to stuffy to stop self depreciation either. It's on the learning curve. You know the circle looking thing.
-
. . . You know the circle looking thing.
X2
-
Can someone explain why the engine should leak oil at that particular gasket when overfilled?
I thought that overfilling, just gave the crank more work to do threshing through the oil.
Surely gasket was an accident waiting to happen, but was hiding behind previous correct oil levels...
-
Can someone explain why the engine should leak oil at that particular gasket when overfilled?
I thought that overfilling, just gave the crank more work to do threshing through the oil.
Surely gasket was an accident waiting to happen, but was hiding behind previous correct oil levels...
I don't know but am curious as well.
Possibly the "empty space" above the oil and below the pistons is designed to be X3 volume and reducing it raises the surge pressure higher than the vent system can handle (or the vent system has been compromised). Gasses do blow-by, even in brand new engines - just an uneducated guess.
-
I believe the reason the gasket blew is that it is the point in the oil circuit where there is the most restriction and where there is little potential for bleed off of pressure. Also this is where, I think there is least amount of air in the oil circuit.
When I run the oil level NOW at the lower 1/3 of the hash marks, I get no leaks. Thats good because the new gasket has not arrived.
I of all people should have known better. I am a diesel mechanic. Up at the top of the dipstick hump doens't look like much, and on most engines, wouldnt matter. On the AAZ, apparently it does.
Changing the tone of the oil debate. This is the second AAZ that I have had, and neither use oil. This engine makes my little Caddy like a modern truck. Since I have regeared it, I drive the snot out of it. I have cruise control, and since I have my little Caddy on my taxes as a business vehicle, I drive it on a lot of trips. I put the darn thing on cruise and run it here in VA at 70MPH and when I hit I-95, I run 80. If traffic is rolling faster, I run with it, it can cruise all day at 90MPH. Until this oil overfill, the engine has been dry.
The serpentine solves my belt issues one of the issues I hated with V belts. Now since I installed the Giles pump, the only issue I have with the little truck is my tires get out of round from spinning and require more rotation, and trim to rebalance.
If I could solve the decibel issue at 80 plus, it would be a perfect modern vehicle. It is quiet enough to 60MPH. I have been contemplating installing new window seals from the MK1 warehouse. We can always throw money at our vehicles, but is it worth it.? Who has done it and is it worth $450?
Wayne
-
Is it truly a matter of air noise or is it, at least, due in part to an inherent drone out of the chassis?
Have you tried simply adjusting the door pins to help hold the doors more inward against the existing seals? Easy to overlook.
-
I believe the reason the gasket blew is that it is the point in the oil circuit where there is the most restriction and where there is little potential for bleed off of pressure. Also this is where, I think there is least amount of air in the oil circuit.
I don' beleive it. more likely during your oil change you disturbed the gasket, didn't tighten it enough, or it was defective.
they oil system is essentially a column maintained at a uniform pressure. That pressure is always above ambient, so air can't get in without a boost or compression to oil leak.
As long as you have more than a quart or so of oil, that gasket sees full system pressure regardless of oil level. the only things I've seen blow em out are installing the filter without removing the old o-ring so they are double stacked, or a stuck pressure relief valve which usually pops the filter housing or strips the threads off it at 200-300 PSI depending how cheap the filter was.
-
The gasket I need is not the filter gasket, it is the filter base to block. It is near impossible to disturb this gasket in an oil change. It is a paper gasket, not a circular rubber gasket. You can see the part I will be replacing if you copy the URL and drop it into another page.
I don' beleive it. more likely during your oil change you disturbed the gasket, didn't tighten it enough, or it was defective.
they oil system is essentially a column maintained at a uniform pressure. That pressure is always above ambient, so air can't get in without a boost or compression to oil leak.
As long as you have more than a quart or so of oil, that gasket sees full system pressure regardless of oil level. the only things I've seen blow em out are installing the filter without removing the old o-ring so they are double stacked, or a stuck pressure relief valve which usually pops the filter housing or strips the threads off it at 200-300 PSI depending how cheap the filter was.
-
Kellogs cornflake boxes make good gaskets. Smear with Red Hermatite, if faces pitted...
-
HmmI think I can get gasket paper cheaper and not have to eat a box of those damn things.
That gasket might be more prone to disturbance in a front crash or engine host drop, but its still downstream of the relief valve.
-
I think I posted that the cost of the gasket was $1.83.
Replinished my german filters, and ordered a few project parts for free shipping.
$1.83. I fabricate lots of gaskets. If you look at the URL, you'll see this is not a simple shaped gasket.
For a $1.83, I can wait on the right part.
-
Sometimes the wait is more of a factor than the money. It is a simple gasket to cut. You lay the materiel over it, and tap with the back of a ball pein, it cuts out perfect in less than 5 minutes.
-
I have been a diesel mechanic for over 30 years. Made more than a few gaskets. But thanks anyway for telling everyone else how to make a gasket.
That is not the issue. The issue is it cost $1.83, and it is already bought and arrives by tracking tomorrow. Secondly, now that the oil level is down to the first hash on the dipstick, it is not leaking. No suggesting it is fixed, just that at this level it does not. Thirdly, I am still driving it, on my 1.5 hour commute from my farm to work. A fourth point is that the nearest parts store is 25 miles from my house, and I rarely start a repair job, without having the part on hand.
Hopefully, the point is made in this post, that overfilling AAZs is harmful, and taken seriously.
Sometimes the wait is more of a factor than the money. It is a simple gasket to cut. You lay the materiel over it, and tap with the back of a ball pein, it cuts out perfect in less than 5 minutes.
-
I agree Dog that overfill is bad. I would think if you overfilled too much you would hydrolock. Which could show us a little as to why you have a leak. As the crankcase fills with too much oil the pressure would rise inside I would guess, possibly causing your leak.
BTW I would take a couple off of you if you want to sell some of those gaskets. I have a couple AAZ blocks and will need them eventually.
-
If you copy the URL in the first post, drop into another window, you will go to the AutohauzAZ page and can order them for $1.83.
I would suggest all to look at the shape of this gasket. Rather elaborate. There are multiple areas to seal, it is not a simple gasket, but the price is cheap.
I now put a premium on my time, I have plenty of money, or rather enough to live by, but not enough time.
When I was scraping by making $8-9 per hour in the 70 & 80s, I'd take the time to fabricate, but now I have to make every bit of spare time I have worth it, and my time to fabricate that gasket is time I can do other things, that pay off more. $1.83.
I use this business for a lot of my VW and mercedes parts. Never had an issue, they ship fast.
Wayne.
-
$1-63, I agree is a good price. Auto-H would charge minimum $50 p &p to the UK, and the local stealership would be quoting a surcharged $9.
Like when I rebuilt my engine, A-H sold a complete set of rings for $22, whilst VW UK wanted $150 per cylinder... ::)
-
I use this business for a lot of my VW and mercedes parts. Never had an issue, they ship fast.
Wayne.
Autohauz is good folks. Never had a problem and prices are market fair.
-
If I could solve the decibel issue at 80 plus, it would be a perfect modern vehicle. It is quiet enough to 60MPH. I have been contemplating installing new window seals from the MK1 warehouse. We can always throw money at our vehicles, but is it worth it.? Who has done it and is it worth $450?
Wayne
Tape the window seals up with something that isn't going to leave a residue and see if it's $450 worth of quieter. I'm betting not. I've been driving these SOB's for 15 years and my 82 is full of insulation and I don't hear any wind noise, and it's still loud as hell relatively speaking much over 60. NVH, we got that....
Amendment: if your seals are really shot, you might get rid of wind noise, but I still suspect you'll discover how much louder everything else is afterwards.
Not saying don't do it, just don't expect a new car.
-
Driving my caddy for more than 30 min, I had to wear earplugs at >60mph. Otherwise, my ears would ring for hours. Most of the noise was engine resonance.
Getting the motor mounts dialed-in helped a lot, but it was still pretty loud.
-
Little or no engine resonance. Did the engine mount neutrization. My noise is mainly window seals.
I moved this part of the topic to the upgrades forum.