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General Information => Upgrades (non engine related ) => Topic started by: jaed_43725 on March 22, 2014, 08:31:36 pm
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Has anyone or is it possible to make a custom dash for these cars? What I am thinking of is getting rid of the gauge cluster as it stands, having a piece of aluminum cut to size, whatever tabs I need put on, then gauge holes drilled. Then I run something like Autometer gauges, so I have a tach on the outside up near the window, a speedo, oil pressure, water temp, boost and volts.
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Sure, knock yourself out, just cheaper you do it, more haggered it will look, so take your time
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Are there any issues with the speedometer or tachometer? Do I have to hook them up some special way?
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Speedo depends on the vehicle we are talking about. Guessing you have an earlier car with a cable driven speedo?
Tach needs a bit of special treatment. You will either need to get a Dakota Digital tach adapter to be able to read the signal from the W terminal on the alternator (factory style) or you will need to build your own triggering device for it based on something like a hall effect sensor. Since there is no ignition system the normal way of driving an electronic tach is not available.
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Ok, that seems fairly easy for the tach. My car is an 85' so I am pretty sure its a cable driven speedo. Is there anything special I need to do about that?
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I was looking at the Auto Meter diesel tach and it requires that I strap some stuff to the outside of the alternator and then use a scanning tool (scans a piece of tape on the flywheel) to dial it all in. Now with the Dakota Digital adapter can I use any tach?
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Yup, with the Dakota adapter you can use any regular gasser tach you like.
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Is there anything special I need to know about using say an Auto Meter speedometer?
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I prefer vdo vs chevy or ford parts... Temp sensors on vdo usually stock vw, they program speedo so can use vw electric for mk3 in mk1... Diesel tach hooks up like vw... Think you will get bent over with any and all onparts fuel gauge...
Just think abt those parts
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I def was not going to use Chevy or Ford stuff. All aftermarket. I could really care less about the factory gauges. Also VDO costs a little more than Auto Meter, and I like Auto Meter. And my speedo as I said is mechanical. The fuel gauge is simple.
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Not trying to hate, but those use gm, ford, dodge style sensors, black wire groung wiring and such, how is it not gm, ford parts?vdo does not make aux fuel gauge to work our stock float units... You need to get its ohm reading and do serious reserch... Cause i doubt one exidts...
And consider me a dick, just being honest... Ill not bug this thread anymore
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Not trying to hate, but those use gm, ford, dodge style sensors, black wire groung wiring and such, how is it not gm, ford parts?vdo does not make aux fuel gauge to work our stock float units... You need to get its ohm reading and do serious reserch... Cause i doubt one exidts...
And consider me a dick, just being honest... Ill not bug this thread anymore
What he meant was using the gauges that came out of those vehicles, as in getting them from a junkyard. And then he said he likes VDO gauges. Well thats fine you can like whatever gauges you want. I like Auto Meter, so I will use them. You read way way way to far into the post.
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Not trying to hate, but those use gm, ford, dodge style sensors, black wire groung wiring and such, how is it not gm, ford parts?vdo does not make aux fuel gauge to work our stock float units... You need to get its ohm reading and do serious reserch... Cause i doubt one exidts...
And consider me a dick, just being honest... Ill not bug this thread anymore
What he meant was using the gauges that came out of those vehicles, as in getting them from a junkyard. And then he said he likes VDO gauges. Well thats fine you can like whatever gauges you want. I like Auto Meter, so I will use them. You read way way way to far into the post.
No, he is correct. He has seen my setup and I bought all new from summit. The senders are for US made cars, you have to drill and tap or adapt them. It is doable, but not fun and nothing matches the older interior.
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Not trying to hate, but those use gm, ford, dodge style sensors, black wire groung wiring and such, how is it not gm, ford parts?vdo does not make aux fuel gauge to work our stock float units... You need to get its ohm reading and do serious reserch... Cause i doubt one exidts...
And consider me a dick, just being honest... Ill not bug this thread anymore
What he meant was using the gauges that came out of those vehicles, as in getting them from a junkyard. And then he said he likes VDO gauges. Well thats fine you can like whatever gauges you want. I like Auto Meter, so I will use them. You read way way way to far into the post.
No, he is correct. He has seen my setup and I bought all new from summit. The senders are for US made cars, you have to drill and tap or adapt them. It is doable, but not fun and nothing matches the older interior.
What he said...
You need to replace all the senders pretty much as the stock senders are VDO-type and have the wrong range for most of the Autometer gauges. Generally speaking the senders included with the Autometer gauges are going to be 1/8-27 NPT whereas VW uses M10 holes for oil pressure/temperature. The stock VW temperature senders are usually clipped in to a plastic housing versus screwed in to a block coolant passage. There are some Autometer fuel level gauges that are pretty close to the VW range (#4316 for instance) but those are only available in some series.
These are obviously all solve-able problems, but it takes more engineering than simply using VDO gauges which speak the same language as the senders already installed in the car. No need to install new wiring that way, no need to engineer a solution for installing the senders, etc.
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Not trying to hate, but those use gm, ford, dodge style sensors, black wire groung wiring and such, how is it not gm, ford parts?vdo does not make aux fuel gauge to work our stock float units... You need to get its ohm reading and do serious reserch... Cause i doubt one exidts...
And consider me a dick, just being honest... Ill not bug this thread anymore
What he meant was using the gauges that came out of those vehicles, as in getting them from a junkyard. And then he said he likes VDO gauges. Well thats fine you can like whatever gauges you want. I like Auto Meter, so I will use them. You read way way way to far into the post.
No, he is correct. He has seen my setup and I bought all new from summit. The senders are for US made cars, you have to drill and tap or adapt them. It is doable, but not fun and nothing matches the older interior.
What he said...
You need to replace all the senders pretty much as the stock senders are VDO-type and have the wrong range for most of the Autometer gauges. Generally speaking the senders included with the Autometer gauges are going to be 1/8-27 NPT whereas VW uses M10 holes for oil pressure/temperature. The stock VW temperature senders are usually clipped in to a plastic housing versus screwed in to a block coolant passage. There are some Autometer fuel level gauges that are pretty close to the VW range (#4316 for instance) but those are only available in some series.
These are obviously all solve-able problems, but it takes more engineering than simply using VDO gauges which speak the same language as the senders already installed in the car. No need to install new wiring that way, no need to engineer a solution for installing the senders, etc.
What he said...
and I and CRSMP5 said too. It is doable and if you like the design go for it. Just realize it isn't as simple as buying gauges and screwing them in.
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I am not planning on using most of the factory senders, they are inaccurate and unreliable. The only factory ones will be the speedo and fuel level. There is a easy workaround for the tach, I already can get adapters for anything so oil pressure is easy, water temp is simple, boost is already hooked up, EGT already has a spot made, and voltmeter is easy.
The hardest part will be making the actual dash itself. I am not taking it to the worlds fair, so it doesnt need to look factory. Heck I would just the same have it powder coated black. The biggest thing is it needs to be able to come apart somewhat easy. If that means some welding being done for tabs, than so be it.
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If you haven't done this then you will not understand that it is not exactly easy. Drill and tap is the easiest, but if you ever want to sell the car then you need an extra manual to go with it so people will know what is going on, or they start a thread with the title "PO's hack job...". If you adapt it, it is difficult as all the temp senders need to be in the flow to be working properly, and most adapters put it out of the stream to be measured...again do able, but not simple to get accurate and good info to your gauges.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b531/the_man_53/HPIM1129_zps6bb05f51.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/the_man_53/media/HPIM1129_zps6bb05f51.jpg.html)
Some have changed since this to better match, but this is how it was when I got it running.