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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: TimpanogosSlim on March 12, 2014, 02:30:26 pm
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Never done a build thread before. Never really built a car before either.
I don't have a good excuse for this project, other than the therapeutic value of working on a car that is 100% optional that i don't have any specific bond with or obligation regarding.
So last year, with no justification whatsoever, I started trolling around for a mk1 diesel. At first I was convinced that i needed a 2-door non-sunroof rabbit. A few slipped through my fingers. Many were identified but too far away to economically retrieve.
On the local free classifieds, someone started advertising a silver 1984 jetta coupe 1.6d (NA), asking $1500. It was a couple hundred miles away. I kept an eye on it for a few weeks.
One day i refreshed the webpage and the price had dropped to $500, so i immediately called the seller. It turned out that we have a number of mutual friends. He had bought the coupe as a running vehicle as a project. The seller made it clear that there had been issues - a bad injector had caused some head damage, so there was a rebuilt head on it. And there had been other issues, so there is a rebuilt starter, and a rebuilt (NA) injection pump, and an electric lift pump at the tank.
He told me that after a while it would only start when towed. He worked for a diesel shop so he borrowed a compression tester and discovered less than 150psi (cold) on all 4 cylinders, with marked improvement after pouring some oil into the cylinders.
Basically, it sounded like there had been issues starting, and everything but the block had been checked and changed.
By that time he had been enticed into buying an old salvage-title miata for $500, semi-running and with a real roll cage. He's more of a jdm drift guy and this VW had been his forbidden fruit purchase, and he'd lost interest.
Moreover, he had deposits to put down and needed to get the heck out of where he was and into where he was going. The vehicle was stored on his grandfather's property in southern utah, and could stay there for a while, but he needed the money bad.
So this is how i ended up buying a title for a car i'd never seen in person for $500 cash around christmas last year.
Eventually i got down there with my land cruiser and a dolly and dragged it back home.
Eventually i got it situated on a clean patch of concrete and up on jack stands.
I'm just about ready to pull the engine out. Mounts are the only thing connected at this point. Probably pulling it, separating it from the trans, and getting it on a work stand this weekend.
I have acquired, without the sense that god gave a crow, the following:
prothe AAZ head, never assembled, plus used-good valvetrain components (1.9 hydro cam, valves, lifters, inner and outer springs, keepers)
PD130 intake manifold
k03 and low-mount intake manifold from a 1997 AHU
G60 valve cover (yes, I realize the head will have to be drilled and tapped)
a whole lot of misc. parts
an appreciation for how costs spiral out of control in this kind of project
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(http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wXD1Ob0RcHg/Uu12kUh1j9I/AAAAAAAAFDA/SYMi8DyNysc/w1041-h587-no/IMG_20140201_153432_483.jpg)
(http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-F4dRNWgraS0/UxO6vXI2dqI/AAAAAAAAFKA/W0o7eO8GeLs/w414-h587-no/IMG_20140302_161153_229.jpg)
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I acquired an intercooler from a Saab today. Not the blackstone one you are hoping i found - i think it's from a 900 turbo or a 9-3. Plastic end tanks. I hope this isn't a mistake. I don't think i will be pushing crazy boost yet, so, eh.
Seems to fit between the headlights.
Also, possible former owner chicanery uncovered: Read vince waldon's overview of oil pressure switches. The switch in the filter housing is the gray one, 0.9 bar, most forgiving available.
Good thing I'm getting the mk2 oil pump for my mk2 hydro head.
Edit: Waitaminute, since there is no tach signal, maybe this is legit? hmm.
I have been unable to find a reasonable deal on a VDO oil pressure sender that has the switch output as well, so i have one that is just a sender, and happens to be 1/8 NPT. Looks like, at this point, I will be using an M10x1 to 1/8npt adapter, a 1/8 npt close nipple, an all-female 1/8 npt cross fitting, and a non-oem 1.4 bar pressure switch in the toward-belts port, the vdo sensor in the top, and a 1/8 npt to -4 AN for turbo oil feed on the toward-transmission port.
Which sounds ugly.
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One way to handle diesel vibrations on an multi-point oil pressure/doo-dad setup to reduce chance of fatigue cracking:
http://www.42draftdesigns.com/VW-Oil-Pressure-Relocation-Kit_p_314.html
regards from a fellow Mk I Jettanaut.
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no point in using a better flowing aaz head with pd intake, if you're going to run that little baby turbo. need mo turbo
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One way to handle diesel vibrations on an multi-point oil pressure/doo-dad setup to reduce chance of fatigue cracking:
http://www.42draftdesigns.com/VW-Oil-Pressure-Relocation-Kit_p_314.html
regards from a fellow Mk I Jettanaut.
Getting the pressure sender closer to the center of the (vibrating) mass will reduce the chance of fatigue. This is an AAZ in an 82 vanagon but you should have a similar situation.
I drilled and tapped the top of banjo bolt going from the filter to the turbo. No problems so far but then I don't have a tone of miles on it yet.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YaboCArYj5M/Uu1bBKi00gI/AAAAAAAACok/4IwAoA1S07Q/w975-h731-no/DSC00687.JPG)
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One way to handle diesel vibrations on an multi-point oil pressure/doo-dad setup to reduce chance of fatigue cracking:
http://www.42draftdesigns.com/VW-Oil-Pressure-Relocation-Kit_p_314.html
regards from a fellow Mk I Jettanaut.
Yeah, could do something like that. And it would be useful to know the pressure on the turbo feed line itself.
The banjo bolt looks clever as well.
There are also sandwich adapters that have multiple ports for gauges and oil lines, but when i think about having a double-decker oil filter housing sandwich (with oil cooler as well) my eyes cross.
The filter housing has two posts on it, and I've seen them with a switch in the front one but the back one solid, with the front one solid and a switch or sensor in the back one, and i've seen them with both of them solid.
Are they on the same 'side' of the oil filter? Not familiar enough.
I've got aluminum cutting fluid on hand for tapping the extra oil channel on the AAZ head, I could potentially drill and tap the rear post as 1/8 NPT, stick the pressure sender in there, and do the banjo thing on the front one. or something.
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(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b531/the_man_53/mk2%20engine%202/DSC05703_zpsbb5ab700.jpg)
If you look there on mine, I used a brass air manifold. I just tapped the filter housing to 1/4" npt and used a nipple. I needed spots for the electric oil pressure gauge and the feed and something else I cannot remember now.
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Dropped the engine today. Didn't get to it until after 3pm and it was date night so it was all i could do to put all the tools away before i had to rush out.
Tomorrow i separate the transmission, get it onto the engine stand, and disassemble.
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Got the trans separated and the block onto the engine stand.
Finally got the IP pulley off. I used my duck's foot - two outer toes bolted to the bracket, and whacked the spindle good and hard a few times. Popped on the 4th or 5th whack.
I stood the IP up on a pad of shop towels, outputs down. Surprising how much diesel these hold. My inner juvenile delinquent wanted to set fire to the towels and slick of diesel on the driveway.
Discovered that i have a remanufactured vacuum pump. Dots of yellow paint on the fasteners. Good to have.
Oil pump looks newish. OTOH how would i know that.
One of the head bolts had a damaged head. Had to pound in the 12 point driver with a hammer. Got it out ok.
Head looks ok. Pistons look like they've got some history. No major damage tho. They do not appear to be OE pistons and the block may have been bored out. I think i recall seeing 76.45 stamped onto the piston heads. (Edit: I now understand that these are probably the original pistons, nural brand, standard size. VW and Audi markings are on the inside)
two-hole metal head gasket with a wad of RTV around the oil return. Hmm.
Plenty of evidence that oil has been leaking from front and rear main seals.
Timing belt idler pulley has a crack in it's edge on the block side. Dunno if I'm gonna replace it. i'm not convinced that it is a problem.
When i pulled the cover off of that end of the intermediate shaft tho, the, ah, I lack the terminology and i didn't manage a photo. The metal face set into the block there has a good crack in it. Probably yet another source of oil. I'll take a picture tomorrow.
Oil pan had a metal & fiber gasket on it that had clearly not been an effective seal either. I'm gonna spring for the windage tray w/ integral rubber gasket.
Tomorrow I'm gonna measure piston protrusion and continue disassembly.
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Cheers on getting into it and past the bad head bolt.
You may want to consider a new TB idler - sucks when they fail and I don't think they are very expensive.
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Cheers on getting into it and past the bad head bolt.
You may want to consider a new TB idler - sucks when they fail and I don't think they are very expensive.
idler was maybe the wrong term. The tensioner pulley is fine.
I mean the intermediate shaft pulley. That ridge that keeps the belt from slipping off - looks like the engine side ridge got whacked, there's loose metal.
And yeah, they aren't expensive. i will probably replace it on principle.
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Yeah i pretty much need to replace the intermediate shaft. Front IM shaft bearing is shot too, so, off to the machine shop the block goes.
Something must have whacked it pretty good!
Bottom end bearings all have 10/83 date code stamped on them.
pistons are Nural and have vw/audi marks on the inside. OK.
Anyway, like i said, machine shop. gonna call up my buddy who works at one, maybe load up his car with my block & whatnot to be hot tanked and measured.
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(http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NMS_mGGMawdmD7mMtaBQJThV1Z4hW80mslSwl_5JLGY=w762-h889-no)
(http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/ded5tDFD0JOLSiwDfIRfgOZ7w9-cHjxWjt7WfIFltSk=w897-h889-no)
(http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0eP9i8TsgeE/Uy9nf3Ue6aI/AAAAAAAAFSM/nthPsTkzWLs/w1185-h889-no/IMG_0663.JPG)
(http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-pjpw2Tk3j2g/Uy9ncxH2aPI/AAAAAAAAFR0/KpqYROxikbw/w1185-h889-no/IMG_0661.JPG)
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Confirmed with my friend - he's picking up the block and anything else i want cleaned and measured tomorrow night.
Not sending the head because i am building a prothe aaz head.
Anybody want to chime in as to what else i should have checked out? Crankshaft, rods, etc?
Also, fwiw, it would appear that AS size -124 is the ideal replacement for the freeze plug block heater o-ring. OD of 33.7mm, 3/32" cross section, just a hair tight. Figure I'll grease it up with RTV and tap it in with my dead-blow mallet and a socket. Yes I'm that cheap.
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My IM bearings were damaged somewhat similarly (see attached 2 photos): so I removed all oil galley plugs,
the piston oil squirters, etc., and flushed oil galleys as much as possible. There were a lot of metal flakes
in the bottom of the pan...YMMV
Also, The crank (both ends) and IM shaft also needed redi sleeves (from NAPA), as grooves were too deep
into crankshaft and IM shafts to be turned out and I didn't want to ruin the Nitriding on the crank journals as
it was still to STD size.
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ouch.
Yeah my IM shaft is toast per the pictures. Got feelers out for another.
I'd been figuring on having the shop measure the crankshaft as well.
no metal flakes in the oil pan, just little two little BB sized meteorites of molten aluminum, which jives with the report that a failed injector had caused partial head meltdown.
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ouch.
Yeah my IM shaft is toast per the pictures. Got feelers out for another.
I'd been figuring on having the shop measure the crankshaft as well.
no metal flakes in the oil pan, just little two little BB sized meteorites of molten aluminum, which jives with the report that a failed injector had caused partial head meltdown.
Your raise a good point, is there a specific sound a guy would listen for to detect a bad injector? By your post, I wouldn't want to run one for long and it would be nice to know.
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ouch.
Yeah my IM shaft is toast per the pictures. Got feelers out for another.
I'd been figuring on having the shop measure the crankshaft as well.
no metal flakes in the oil pan, just little two little BB sized meteorites of molten aluminum, which jives with the report that a failed injector had caused partial head meltdown.
Your raise a good point, is there a specific sound a guy would listen for to detect a bad injector? By your post, I wouldn't want to run one for long and it would be nice to know.
Good question! I have no idea. The guy i bought the jetta from said that the guy he bought it from (when it ran w/o tow starting) told him the tale of a partially melted head.
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The only definitive way to know is to get your injectors pop tested. But excessive smoke is a serious warning sign...
Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk
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..if your IM shaft isn't cracked, bent, overheated, etc, the NAPA redi sleeves will allow its re-use safely: though Libbydiesel has more
experience with them than I do. I'd re-use the IM shaft with sleeves on anything less than a full-on race machine.
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..if your IM shaft isn't cracked, bent, overheated, etc, the NAPA redi sleeves will allow its re-use safely: though Libbydiesel has more
experience with them than I do. I'd re-use the IM shaft with sleeves on anything less than a full-on race machine.
They have a sleeve for that flange on the end? which is cracked pretty bad.
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I stood the IP up on a pad of shop towels, outputs down. Surprising how much diesel these hold. My inner juvenile delinquent wanted to set fire to the towels and slick of diesel on the driveway.
I usually throw them in my oil drain pan to bleed out for a minute.
Your raise a good point, is there a specific sound a guy would listen for to detect a bad injector? By your post, I wouldn't want to run one for long and it would be nice to know.
Mine was a bit of clatter, and a fairly heavy miss....cut through the fresh head into coolant in about half an hour of run time >:(
The tip was visibly messed up had i taken the time to look.
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..if your IM shaft isn't cracked, bent, overheated, etc, the NAPA redi sleeves will allow its re-use safely: though Libbydiesel has more
experience with them than I do. I'd re-use the IM shaft with sleeves on anything less than a full-on race machine.
(http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/ded5tDFD0JOLSiwDfIRfgOZ7w9-cHjxWjt7WfIFltSk=w897-h889-no)
From what I can tell in the OP's photo, a good portion of the thrust flange is about to fall off - time for a replacement
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yeah i should have used the more clear "i need a replacement intermediate shaft" - doesn't have to be *new.
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I'm pretty sure I'm going to get told that i need to bore this out.
(http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-FAFMUnjaYME/Uy9nRRzr6AI/AAAAAAAAFQE/qmA65Z3kyL0/w783-h587-no/IMG_0652.JPG)
(http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Iiy_Je193BQ/Uy9nS-ZaQVI/AAAAAAAAFQQ/WJajCpus-50/w783-h587-no/IMG_0653.JPG)
(http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xHlpuwoKWZ0/Uy9nVCjmYJI/AAAAAAAAFQo/dqlTd4adRHk/w783-h587-no/IMG_0655.JPG)
(http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Ss_Q26zDv4Q/Uy9nWclPIgI/AAAAAAAAFQ0/ILSJBxOiIa0/w783-h587-no/IMG_0656.JPG)
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So the good thing about having a friend who works at a highly respected and very busy machine shop is that your parts go in the back door and you don't have to negotiate with the owner's jackass son who is more interested in drop-shipping rebuild kits sold through the website than actually doing machine work.
The bad thing is that they are completely slammed and it might be a week or more before i know anything about my block. I worry about the ridge.
Anyway, about the electronic oil pressure gauge sender and oil feed for the turbo - I have decided to drill and tap the 2nd boss on the filter flange. I already bought some aluminum cutting oil so it will be no big deal to put 1/8 npt threads in it.
I've ordered a 1/8 npt street tee and a 1/8 npt to -4 AN union. I'll decide what goes on the side port and what goes on the top port when i assemble the engine.
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These adapters will allow you to use the existing M10 ports with 1/8-27 NPT things:
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/18-npt-female-to-m-10p-10-male-adapter.aspx
That way you don't have to mess with drilling/tapping.
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I'm aware of those, but this way i don't have to attach 3 things to a single port, and i can use the OE oil pressure switch in the original port.
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Alright, I spoke to my machinist.
He says that the crankshaft and rods are perfect, crankshaft has been polished for me.
As expected the cylinders need bored.
He estimated, well, roughly what I'd end up spending on another block, including pistons.
I know I've heard tales of shops not boring the "right" way for VW pistons. I am not sure what is meant by that. The shop I'm working with has a policy of acquiring the pistons first and then boring the cylinders to match the actual measurement of the pistons.
I'll probably stop by the shop tomorrow to discuss it in more detail.
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Sounds like your machinist is on the right track - waiting for the pistons.
These are not big block Chevys (not that there's anything wrong with Chevy's) and the tolerances are quite snug. A little over the bore target and it's the same as removing 100K miles with the mill in a few minutes.
Your Bentley, or possibly the FAQ has the specs
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Vw diesel has a spec of .0012" more than the piston skirt. Most machinists even with piston in hand will say "no way, too tight, I am going to .0025". The wear limit when you break them down is .003" so they basically bored the life out of your engine if they do it their way. I have been lucky, both machinists I have used went by the book, but that is what the tales of shops not boring correctly start at.
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Ok, i'll have that conversation with 'em
. :Sent by pneumatic tubes
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just back from the machine shop. had a conversation with the guy who bores cylinders. he seems to understand the bore spec, though as predicted he thinks it's tight. i am under the impression that he will bore according to my wishes, but says he is going to start with a rough bore just to see what size piston is going to go in.
all this guy does is measure and bore cylinders. it's his whole job. he's good at it.
hardly recognized the block without the grease all over it. The wrecked IM shaft bearings are already out of it - he says their parts cleaner damages bearings so they always R&R any pressed bearings.
I've decided to let them build my head as well, so i'm going to drop off the prothe aaz head and valve train components i got from mcpook and then head up to the tractor store to get some green paint. the JD paints are made by Valspar and seem to be made to a very good specification. All the black parts are going to be painted with JD Blitz Black so it only makes sense to use JD Green on the green parts.
Come to think of it, I'll swing by the auto body & paint supply and get some adhesion promoter for aluminum while I'm out. Maybe start with the water pump housing as a test piece.
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FYI, there are two shades of John Deere Green. The current shade is darker than the old one. Your John Deere dealer will have both in stock.
I bought the brighter shade.
Also realized that i want to plug the extra oil return before i hand it to anybody. I ordered the plug (and some fuel & lube tygon tubing, and some other stuff) from mcmaster, and a 5/16" pipe plug socket from amazon ($6.50 shipped, about the same as some key stock from mcmaster).
I have a Cunning Plan for how i will drill for the G60 valve cover in the AAZ head.
I will use a thin bead of silicone to 'glue' the valve cover to the head. and use the valve cover as my guide on the drill press table.
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i have a lot more time to work on the jetta now because i am *ahem* between jobs.
shame the engine is all taken apart.
anyway, visited the machinist again, collected my old pistons which, turns out, they didn't bother to clean since they're no use in my current block.
Noticed that there are clear valve marks on the tops of all four pistons, one of them really impressive, but the valves in the head that i pulled off just have a healthy coating of carbon.
My surmise is that these impacted the previous head. I know the guy who saved this car from the wreckers so i believe it when i hear that the head is not original. Does give me some pause.
There is only 127k or so on the odometer so either the odometer isn't original to the car or the engine was abused.
ah well.
I put the #4 piston in the can of berryman chem-dip so i can get a clear image of the old nural stamp for someone who was curious about it.
McMaster bits arrive tomorrow. I'll be in my machinist friend's shop tomorrow or thursday plugging the extra oil return on the head, possibly drilling and tapping for the g60 valve cover as well.
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Watching to see how this shapes up. Jealous of the jetta coupe. Lots of potential there.
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Yeah. A lot of people would just drop in an ABA but i wanted diesel.
I suppose my reasons for a 1.6td are illogical at this point but i had hoped to find a good block with worn rings, not a block so worn that the pistons looked odd in it.
Ahh well. I hope for a good result, and maybe some day i find an AHU and sell a built 1.6td to someone. Or maybe the 1.6td will be plenty.
. :Sent by pneumatic tubes
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Inspected and cleaned (somewhat) the head i removed, which is for sale (make offer):
(http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XMI8DmIdLfY/Uz9hcPwL34I/AAAAAAAAFVA/YihwNTfM3QA/w1185-h889-no/IMG_0673.JPG)
(http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-xsieayY5WdI/Uz9hgGb-YlI/AAAAAAAAFVM/9s11anJ-WeM/w1185-h889-no/IMG_0674.JPG)
(http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V8E1keqLjCE/Uz9hh41nZ5I/AAAAAAAAFVY/fHzveEDZjJg/w1185-h889-no/IMG_0675.JPG)
(http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-wVxRPTW3XYM/Uz9hjynQywI/AAAAAAAAFVk/AkwAqQs4AA0/w1185-h889-no/IMG_0676.JPG)
(http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BhT4iGo7rYE/Uz9hl66A4gI/AAAAAAAAFVw/al9aqDm7vNc/w1185-h889-no/IMG_0677.JPG-)
(http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--cJiwnuwNNk/Uz9hnZFHzxI/AAAAAAAAFV8/3TEktIodEBU/w1185-h889-no/IMG_0678.JPG)
(http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-VC3oZJiVntQ/Uz9hpCHEEwI/AAAAAAAAFWI/ebkZMSnzgkQ/w1185-h889-no/IMG_0679.JPG)
(http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-d4ymyqODrOk/Uz9hq67obDI/AAAAAAAAFWU/eMDqK5ENSLA/w1185-h889-no/IMG_0680.JPG)
(http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-w7TEzR1QuT4/Uz9hsoDSRWI/AAAAAAAAFWg/Nk1gE5VK9DA/w1185-h889-no/IMG_0681.JPG)
The bearing surfaces at the sprocket end lend some credence to the theory that the timing belt was on too tight. i think it still looks usable but potential buyers should make their own decision.
Some of the valves are not OE, you can see that a couple lack the concentric rings.
No evidence of cracks that i can detect with a fingernail.
The bottom surface was cleaned by applying berryman chem-dip with a hog's hair brush, over and over, and wiping it off.
This is now reassembled with permatex ultra-slick assembly lube on the bearing surfaces.
Also tried out the vintage john deere paint:
(http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-p8HpdoN0Cak/Uz9hzz72mdI/AAAAAAAAFWs/ObLI2LouAwo/w1185-h889-no/IMG_0682.JPG)
The camera makes it look more washed out than it looks in person, tho.
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The axle flanges on the transaxle are shimmed and re-sealed.
Peloquin should have included new outer seals as well, for the money. They also should have included 2 or 3 washers as part of the flange tool.
The tool is sized just barely too big to fit inside the rim of the 90mm flanges, so when you really torque it down - required to get the snap ring in on top of the convex washer for 40% kit - the legs spread as the center bows in. and the nut and bar chew each other up.
re-shaped the U so it fits inside the flange just barely and stacked 3 oiled washers between (new) nut and U, works much better.
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Finally found my npt tap/die set and tapped the extra oil return for the plug.
I used A-9 aluminum cutting fluid. This was my first time using a purpose-made cutting fluid (rather than whatever oily substance is around) and it was worth it. Tapping w/ cheap harbor freight tap and an adjustable wrench was a breeze. I just applied a few drops to the tap's threads and went a quarter turn at a time, then backing out a bit to loose the aluminum from the tap. Nice and slow and easy.
The A-9 fluid even smells uncanily like cinnamon rolls w/ frosting on.
As others have said, it is important to stop and check to make sure you haven't gone too far, as this is a tapered thread. I seem to have got it just right. Still need to clean up a little peening where the leading edge of the tap was.
I will probably go get a high-temp thread sealer for final installation.
Also, i bought a sunex 5/16" square pipe plug socket for this job. Waste of $6.50 to amazon prime. Doesn't fit in the mcmaster plug. Not even close.
A 1/4" socket wrench, however, works well enough.
. :Sent by pneumatic tubes
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Drilled and tapped the prothe AAZ head for the G60 valve cover. Used a drill & tap combo set from sears.
The timing end of the head has two holes already that line up exactly with the valve cover - they are only drilled out 5mm though, and not deep enough. So i started by drilling them out and down, and tapping them M6x1.0.
This allowed me to use a couple m6 bolts to attach the valve cover, and i then used my handy dandy harbor freight center punch to mark the positions of the other 6 studs.
A-9 aluminum cutting fluid again was pleasant and helpful.
If you have a clamp big enough for this job on your drill press, use it. The drill bit will tend to want to kick out when you get through the flange, which will happen on 6 of the holes because the casting - at least on my head - is a hair wider than the distance between studs when measuring across the head. This will cause the drill bit to bend slightly, and then you'll have to bend it back as straight as you can. I did this at least 5 times.
The good news is that the drill bit will tend to catch the indentation made by the center punch and then drill straight down from that, if you go slowly.
At any rate, i don't have the valve cover gasket update kit yet, but it looks close enough for government work.
I dropped off the head and valvetrain components at the machine shop and spoke to the guy who builds heads. I am terrible with names. FWIW all my machining is being done at Clegg Engine & Machine, where the engine assembler is a personal friend of mine who has a degree in mechanical engineering. He is the most recent hire, and he's been there 11 years. Everyone who works there has one job. My friend only does assembly. The guy who bored the block only measures and bores cylinders. The guy who is building the head only does head work. They are all very good at their jobs, and this shop is clean enough to eat off the floor of.
There are other good shops in the Orem area, but since I have a relationship with these guys, they're doing it. I hear that C&T Machine also does excellent work.
The guy who orders parts is competing in a bicycle race today, so i may order my own gaskets and seals and bearings from GAP today.
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Dropped off a big box of greazy diesel-stinking parts for cleaning. I dunno what precisely they use but aluminum heads come out of their parts washer looking new. It's a water & detergent system. *shrug*.
Waiting for paint to dry on the IP sprocket, then i'll give it another coat, wait some more, and then enhance the visibility of the timing mark.
Ordered all my seals and gaskets and bearings from GAP, along with new control arms, bunch of other stuff. Enough for free shipping. oof. Still at least $100 worth of parts yet to buy, not including the head gasket because we need bearings in to measure piston protrusion.
Most important component of a turbo conversion turned up today:
(http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ekpgPRoZVtw/U0hH6pWQf2I/AAAAAAAAFa0/wJL28o8ZBD0/w1577-h889-no/IMG_20140411_135209_953.jpg)
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Good to hear you're making progress
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The part number on the head looks like it might be for a 1.5l motor...may be i missed something in your thread about that (pictures don't show the size of the oil return or if the outer boss had been built up for a 1.6 block).
Are the head bolts 11 or 12mm? Some but not all of the 11mm blocks are stamped 1.6D i think...could be wrong on that. If it is a 1.5l head the bolt holes would have had to be opened up some to fit 12mm bolts.
A guy on the Vortex is looking for a 1.5 head.
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Pretty sure it's a 1.6 head.
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Sounds good then...the AAZ head wouldn't fit a 11mm block tightly without sleeving the head bolts
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the block code is JK. I'd take more pics of the head but it's at the shop, in case someone wants it milled before shipped.
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I think you guys were right - this does look like a 1.5 head.
(http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zih5laOHqqE/U0yS-iszu8I/AAAAAAAAFcs/3MzJV5bEZSg/w1185-h889-no/IMG_0693.JPG)
In other news, got clean parts back from machine shop. I use only quality John Deere paints.
(http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-W4ilT4eThxo/U09MpYSmq1I/AAAAAAAAFd0/N624ygPSHg8/w1185-h889-no/IMG_0696.JPG)
Yes, the mounts are still there. i decided that this was less fussy than having them pressed out and taping off the metal. When my new ones get here from GAP next week i'll have these pressed out and new pressed in.
Ran out of etching primer. 1st can of Blitz Black is near empty, but i used that for some other projects too.
Basically, the aluminum castings are so rough that there is no cleaning them. Thus paint. The sheet metal has lost most of it's chromate plating, thus paint. I want this engine to be pretty.
Oh, I also drilled and tapped a 2nd port on the oil filter flange. No sweat. Drilled in four steps starting with 3/16 and ending with 11/32 on a drill press, then tapped gradually and carefully until the brass 1/8 npt street tee can almost seat by hand. Liberal application of A-9 cutting fluid again. Great stuff.
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Parts got here from GAP, and i got a good looking IM shaft from mcpook.
As much as i trust mcpook i am paying for an hour or so of labor for the head to be professionally assembled, plus any machining it needs. They will also double check all the parts and polish the cam.
So today i dropped off the IM shaft, IM shaft bearings, and valve seals at the machine shop.
I'm gonna install my own front and rear main seals and IM shaft seal using the method i saw in use at the shop. They have a hotplate that they heat up the seal carrier on. When it's sufficiently expanded, they just pick up the carrier with a pair of pliers, put it down on a steel table, drop in the seal, wait a few seconds, then pick it back up with the pliers and take it to the sink and run some water over it. My friend over there says this is the ONLY way to install them without damaging the seal. Seems clever to me. I figure there's no reason i can't heat up my own seal carriers on a griddle at home.
I did have them press out the old seals, though.
There was also some interesting lore shared about seal materials. He says in the 11 years he's been there - and they warranty their builds - almost every time they have had an engine come back with oil seeping from a main seal, it was a seal with a brown material against the rotating surface. Almost never a seal with a dark, graphite-impregnated material against the rotating surface. so now they acquire a graphite seal whenever possible.
but hey, this is a mk1 diesel. it's probably going to seep from somewhere, no matter what i do.
The shop won't be building this engine, though. In a day or three I'll have to pay my bill and take the block and head, and assembly of the engine will happen in my friend's garage, with his supervision.
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Just a crappy cell phone picture, but i have drilled and tapped my PD130 manifold for a 1/8 npt boost tap.
I suppose with a male-female-female-female cross fitting i could potentially use it for an IAT sensor as well, but eh. I bought a lot of 5 male to two female brass tees on ebay just now, because that was the minimum quantity i could find for the kind that is milled out of a block of brass.
If anybody wants one send me a PM. I sure don't need 5.
I may have gone a turn or so too far with the tap. The plug i used for test fit goes all the way in. Nothing i can't resolve with another layer of yellow teflon tape. As the kids say, the boost tap will be "hella flush".
(http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-a4zwUGHYvMA/U1gzprLTKLI/AAAAAAAAFgQ/1mFIch92viU/w1577-h889-no/IMG_20140423_154143_334.jpg)
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Well i started small with the seals. specifically the IM output seal.
I have, uh, rather a lot of cast iron cookware. So i pulled out a 6" skillet that had gotten some rust spots on the cooking surface, put it face down on the gas stove, lit it up, and set it to medium. Put the seal carrier for the IM shaft on it.
When oil started cooking out of it and smoking up the kitchen i got anxious and pushed the seal in. Slid right in. Waited a bit and then ran small trickles of water over it until it stopped sizzling.
Then i went to the weekly gathering of car nerds. Got back about 40 minutes ago.
Heated the pan up again and this time went looking for my infrared thermometer. I put the front main seal on it and waited until it read about 250f and then pushed in the seal. Same size as the IM seal. Went right in.
Then i put on the rear main carrier, which as you know has a lot less metal to it. I guess i had trouble getting a good read on it with the ir thermometer i guess, i got nervous and jumped the gun. i dropped the seal on it and just the metal part went in, and immediately heated up. I had to tap it back out with a large screwdriver and a hammer.
So i put the rear main carrier back on the hot iron and walked away for 5 or 7 minutes. When i came back the iron was reading over 700f (prime steak searing temperatures, fwiw) and the carrier over 430f.
So i dropped the seal on it. or rather through it.
then scrambled to get it back up off the hot iron with some cooking tongs.
Using the tongs i moved the rear main carrier to a cool surface, transmission side down, and dropped the seal into it's midst.
I had to stand there blowing on it for a minute before the carrier shrunk enough to meet up with the seal. Then i picked it up with the tongs and cooled it with a thin trickle of water in the sink.
I consider this a success. I don't want to install a seal any other way.
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Mostly painted parts today, including the water pump housing, intake manifold, heater hard line, alternator pulley.
Also blocked off the EGR port on the exhaust manifold, since the kit came from idparts. Rusty old studs were a bear to remove, and one set of threads on the egr port was damaged.
Here's the proof of concept for the turbo oil supply line and the pressure sender, after chasing threads in the street tee until they can almost bottom out:
(http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-e5gxb4M5KYs/U1rMVdEDZUI/AAAAAAAAFiQ/epPNjn0rgAg/w559-h889-no/IMG_20140425_145758_119.jpg)
Intake manifold w/ 'race pipe', alternator bracket in the background:
(http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-UqZIoolwyt8/U1r065gPU1I/AAAAAAAAFiY/WjDCdeYmpgU/w934-h889-no/IMG_20140425_175049_277.jpg)
Starting to lean toward just hot piping it for now, and trying to budget in an air-to-water intercooler in the future. Could fit all of that behind the intake manifold, i bet.
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Paid the bill for the block work and brought home block, crank, etc.
I have no frame of reference (never had any machine work done before, of any severity anyway) but i am under the impression that i paid a pretty fair price for the work.
The pistons, eh, I misremember the brand name on the box. I should have bought Nurals from RockAuto. These have a made in chicago mark. I'll look it up. They look no worse than the original Nural pistons i took out, though, so i imagine they will work ok. $270 inclusive w/ rings. So with nural pistons from rockauto and grant rings from somewhere else i might have saved a few bucks after paying for shipping twice, but not much. This shop mostly works on detroit iron and has all kinds of wholesale suppliers i never heard of. They probably buy pistons for numerous makes from whoever made these and this shop warranties their builds so I imagine they trust the brand.
There are still spots of surface rust (and one swath of green paint) on the exterior of the block. I guess i can't blame them for not media blasting it or something. Some light OCD is kicking in so i think i will get out the big box of dremel wire wheels and cones and do what i can.
The crank polishing looks beautiful.
Machinist tells me that the 2nd hand IM shaft was a slightly tight fit at first, but he gave it a light polish and it now fits "perfect". I trust his judgment (he's been assembling 3-4 engines a day for 11 years, with unlimited mileage warranty, and very few have come back) but i wonder if this indicates that the IM shaft bearings sold by GAP are not fully honed? They don't specify and the box didn't say. At least this indicates to me that oil starvation due to poor IM shaft fitment is unlikely, and i didn't have to pay to have sleeves installed.
The verification, polish, and assembly of used AAZ valve train and installation into brand new prothe AAZ head is a separate ticket and i'm told will be 'like an hour" of labor, and it will be done "maybe wednesday" - i'm not concerned about the time frame since i doubt I'll have a head gasket within the next 10 days.
verification of valve train parts is not because i don't trust the guy i bought them from. just due prudence. I intend to beat on this engine pretty hard after it has been run in.
I extracted the rusty studs from the ahu-spec k03 today as well. Why is it that there is always one that is badly seized with damaged threads? I am starting to feel that my harbor freight propane torch is inadequate for superheating stubborn hardware and i may need to buy a MAPP gas setup at a minimum, and religate the propane torch to kitchen duty.
Anybody know a reasonably priced non-prothe source for a downpipe flange for this thing? prothe sells a DP for $60ish but i will end up paying someone to modify it anyway. I met a local fabricator but I am unsure if i trust him.
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Interesting reading. BTW, you wrote the word "trust" four times. Not sure if that means anything, just sayin.
IMHO some bits from Prothe are fine, some stuff not so much. The most complex thing I would buy from him would be pistons, and that's only if you can't find them elsewhere - even for twice the price.
The build is progressing nicely. As for the IM shaft fit, I get the impression the Machinist knows his stuff.
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Interesting reading. BTW, you wrote the word "trust" four times. Not sure if that means anything, just sayin.
Interesting. I guess i am just listing my known unknowns?
IMHO some bits from Prothe are fine, some stuff not so much. The most complex thing I would buy from him would be pistons, and that's only if you can't find them elsewhere - even for twice the price.
The build is progressing nicely. As for the IM shaft fit, I get the impression the Machinist knows his stuff.
Yeah people seem to say that the prothe aaz heads are ok. His 1.6 pistons are the same cost as nurals so, eh, no thanks.
So far i found this flange:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1150627
Which costs more than the prothe downpipe. And the photo doesn't show that it has clearance for the wastegate to open all the way. And he says that's an OE gasket and i was pretty sure there is no gasket (just exhaust sealant compound).
So i will search around a bit more. The 'fabricator' is a guy with an enormous Norton mig/tig rig in his garage. I bought a saab intercooler from him before i decided that i am just going to hot pipe this thing until i can budget for a water to air intercooler. He offered to give me some "good clamps" with the IC and then reached into a coffee can and handed me three greasy mismatched hardware store grade worm gear band clamps.
So, yeah.
Anybody wanna buy an intercooler from a saab 9-3? Or from a mercedes sprinter? I want the least turbo lag possible which means i am not plumbing in a front mount IC.
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Just dropped off injectors for pop test at a bosch injection shop recommended by zukgod1. Here's hoping i don't need new nozzles but i'd rather know now.
If they're good they'll be shimmed to 155 bar if not, eh, i'll figure that out when i get there.
. :Sent by pneumatic tubes
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Early this morning i found someone on the vortex trying to get rid of some mk3 tdi parts, and then found them on tdiclub trying to get rid of even more mk3 tdi parts.
I was wondering if an AHU air inlet tube would work in my mk1 application but i ended up buying an AHU jetta downpipe for substantially less shipped cost than a prothe DP stub. I consider that a win.
Tonight i went over the whole block with wire wheels on the dremel, wasted a whole can of brake kleen, masked off gasket surfaces, and applied primer. Sadly i do not have high hopes for this paint job. environmental regulations being what they are, a hot tanking is not what it used to be. i think there is a lot of the original paint still on the block, just cooked and caked with carbon. I have a bad feeling that this engine is going to be pretty for about 5 minutes.
Ahh well.
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Congrats on the downpipe score.
I believe tackling a block with a dremel to get it clean is like a mosquito mating with an elephant ;D
You may be better off using carb dip and a good wire brush. Paint remover could help as well - especially the non-environmental friendly stuff if you can find it.
I've used a wire wheel on a 4" grinder - both the cup and flat type, and had good results. The good thing about a pretty engine is fixing the oil leaks (if it's even possible) will keep you from getting bored.
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yeah, i have a harbor freight die grinder and various wheels. i might give the front and back another good scrubbing.
there are so many little nooks and crannies on the back of the block, though, which don't actually accomplish anything that i can recall. so many bosses for hardware i don't have. must have been for industrial engines or something.
I know what the real solution here is. I just don't think i can execute on it.
there's an adhesive rubber mat that monument companies and sculpteurs use to mask items, usually stone, before media blasting. It's the primary way that words get cut into marble for the last 50 years or so. I could mask off all but the rough cast areas and go to it.
but i don't have the mat, or access to the blaster.
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To me, the Chicago reference on the piston would indicate that they are, made in Argentina, Topline brand. And, if they are fitted with Topline rings, I (personally) would certainly STOP....regroup.....order a good set of pistons and rings NOW.
I had an engine with Topline components (and this was a totally mild n/a application) and was NOT at all impressed. Actually, I was a bit pis-sed-off that I had been so haphazard in "selecting" them for the build. The rings never did seat and I was relieved the day a pre-cup took out the engine and I started over with something else.
Topline manages to sell a lot of stuff through "engine kits" offered by machinists. It is a lot like buying surgery equipment at Walmart. Just my opinion based on a very negative experience. If you are turbo'ing this.....wow.....good luck. Put a rabbit's foot on the rear-view mirror.
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well, the trick is, the block has been bored to match the measurements of the pistons.
I could see getting different rings, but i don't have a lot of money to burn on this anymore.
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Yes, pistons and rings are Topline.
Is there any consensus that the Topline rings aren't going to work? Would Grant rings work better, or would i have to spring for something that costs real money?
in other news, the head is not quite done.
The guy who is building the head says that one of the exhaust valves was bent, so he ordered in another. Also that the face required a light resurfacing.
none of the valves looked bent to me, but these guys spin all valves to be certain, even new ones.
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in other news, the head is not quite done.
The guy who is building the head says that one of the exhaust valves was bent, so he ordered in another. Also that the face required a light resurfacing.
none of the valves looked bent to me, but these guys spin all valves to be certain, even new ones.
Since with these engines the valves stick out straight, the stems tend to 'collapse' slightly when they get impacted, unlike lots of other engines where they will actually "bend". It's good that your machinist is strict with this - an impacted valve often decides to drop its head a few thousand miles down the road, which generally destroys the piston, head and possibly the block.
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well, it looks like goetze rings are $13 per piston at autohausaz. i guess i consider this a lesson learned. i should have showed up with the pistons and rings i wanted instead of letting the shop source them.
i read about some of the bad experiences with the topline rings, and chrome rings in general.
bah. if i, eh, had a job at the moment, i would spring for total seal.
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Goetze are, indeed, extremely wise. You will not regret it (if installed, broken in properly).
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fwiw i hear good things about topline rings in engines that are not vw diesels.
but all i see here are sad tales.
If i had the dough i'd go for the total seal rings, but right now I'm thinking that if some day i get a hotter turbo than the ahu-spec k03 I'll re-ring with total seal at that juncture.
The machine shop i am working with is an olds / pontiac / buick specialist by way of being enthusiasts for those badges. I'm working with them because i have a good friend who works there and he'd never understand if i went somewhere else.
When i went by yesterday to pick his brain about distributor setup on my other money pit ('77 fiat spider) he was madly reassembling one of the two hotrodded olds 455 engines that Mondello Performance had brought out from california to have tested on their engine dyno, which ran like crap and made various strange noises.
If i rebuild another engine i'll get all my own parts. It was my fault for not jumping on it after they did the rough bore on the cylinders and knew which size to order. Can't expect the oldsmobile experts to buy the right vw parts.
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Fwiw, the other money pit - the original money pit - turned over and ran last night for the first time since 1998. Unbelievably good feeling to hear the old girl run again.
. :Sent by pneumatic tubes
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If it is handy and you run out of stuff to do, publish a couple photos of those pistons. Maybe a side/top combo shot and an under-side shot. Perhaps, they are better looking these days.
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ha, run out of stuff to do.
the pistons looked ok to me but i may find the time for a photo shoot.
regarding paint, after agonizing for 2 days while the primer cured, i decided to see how bad it was.
Masking tape couldn't pull the primer off the block, so i went ahead and sprayed it green. Time will tell whether this was a foolish idea.
(http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9HJ68BqUIGw/U2LacSmS0eI/AAAAAAAAFoU/YIuXPaxuM1w/w1097-h889-no/IMG_20140501_173552_432.jpg)
Here is a before shot -- after 3x hot tanking, but, a water based hot tank:
(http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-GHRDboi5qkU/U2FRAr91--I/AAAAAAAAFkU/KkUPOYW_iLA/w1185-h889-no/IMG_0709.JPG)
After dremel wire wheels:
(http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-dfzezT5uqRE/U2FRCGfWZ0I/AAAAAAAAFkg/VQyTyKPNLLE/w1185-h889-no/IMG_0710.JPG)
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Carry on sir
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topline piston photo shoot:
(http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BdNo1rEXlmM/U2LyPfJFcVI/AAAAAAAAFpk/Xnftk9HvbVQ/w1185-h889-no/IMG_0717.JPG)
(http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-rxBnluZh5sQ/U2LyTw0nYTI/AAAAAAAAFqA/td_FJ5NUdno/w1185-h889-no/IMG_0719.JPG)
(http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yS0ya0z2GLs/U2LyZRhGOhI/AAAAAAAAFqc/j_QHZ0JD7ZU/w1185-h889-no/IMG_0721.JPG)
Aside from the markings on the top, lack of valve impressions, piston slap, and carbon - they look just like the nurals i took out to my untrained eye.
I have much higher resolution if anyone feels the need, plus shots of the group of four.
the thing that looks like a bit of fluff in the side shot is a bit of fluff.
Edit: Just submitted the order for goetze rings along with the other stuff i was getting from autohausaz. I had been holding off on ordering from them because i wanted to order the head gasket at the same time, but *** happens.
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Not much accomplished today.
The bosch shop i dropped my injectors off at hasn't called. i'll give 'em a ring next week. They seemed BUSY and the guy in charge knows and respects zukgod1. so I think they are probably just a bit behind. I told 'em i'm not in a hurry so they may be taking higher dollar work, which is ok.
Predictably, the machine shop called and asked why it is their vendors keep sending them valves with 7mm stems. I explained (again) that this is probably because the head is later model than the car, and that they should look for valves for a 1992 jetta 1.9D or TD, engine code AAZ. Hopefully that gets them on track. I can get a few different brands of AAZ-code valves through rockauto so, hopefully they just weren't communicating. or didn't remember that i told them the head is from a much later engine.
Stopped by the auto-body/paint store for more of their good etching primer (forget the brand, has a maple leaf on the label, is NOT cheap, goes on way smoother than rustoleum) and realized that the House of Hose is right next door. My k03 came w/o oil fittings so i ordered some on ebay. Didn't realize that the return was 5/8" and bought a 3/8" weld bung and 45 degree street elbow for the oil pan. Picked up a length of 5/8" high temperature hydraulic hose and a 3/8 mpt to 5/8 barb fitting for way cheap. love these guys and don't know why i ever buy hose or fittings anywhere else.
Finished painting the engine and transmission mounts, painted the, ah, throttle bracket or what passes for one in a diesel, and a couple more pulleys.
Determined that the oil pump i took out of the engine is from a 1.5D. Read the procedure for checking the mk2 (hydro head) oil pump i got from BYM and then couldn't find my feeler gauges. bah.
Getting anxious to build the engine. It's just sitting on top of a plastic bucket right now while the paint finishes curing.
I know it's cart-before-the-horse but i mounted the oil filter flange and the breather fitting. Tried to get a better idea of how i'm going to route the turbo oil feed but until i mount the vacuum pump i won't have a clear idea.
Reinz gasket kit came with a plastic dingus that goes between the breather fitting and the block. Has a rubber seal on the block side. Good idea? I guess i paid for it, and if it doesn't hurt . . .
Does anyone have strong opinions about the use of copper spray-a-gasket on paper gaskets? The oil filter flange was glued onto the block with something so tenacious that there's still traces of it on there. But slathering it with RTV seems gauche.
The water pump housing, otoh, is going to get a good application of RTV behind the o-ring. the casting is just so rough.
Installed the thermostat in the water pump housing. I might take it back out and slather the o-ring with plumber's silicone grease.
Tomorrow I may just go ahead and put it on the stand, then install the main bearings and crankshaft, maybe the seals. And then throw the engine bag back over it and fidget like a child who has been told to sit in a corner. Or just work on one of the other two money pits.
AutohausAZ hasn't shipped my rings yet. And after going through the box of hardware i realize that i should have ordered some more stuff. three or four axle flange bolts have damaged heads for example. There's a lot of other hardware i feel like replacing and i might end up making a list and heading over to one of the local fastener shops, though i'm tempted to buy black oxide 12.9 hardware from mcmaster in bulk. I just can't justify the price when i know that double-d bolt will have most the normal-ish hardware and i'll probably spend less than $10.
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Well, i painted the valve cover.
Or rather, i filed down some of the worse features of the top of the valve cover, wet sanded for an hour or so with 400 grit, polished the gasket surfaces (since they'd been media blasted), masked off the gasket surfaces, polished and masked the VW badge, laid on 4 layers of automotive-grade primer (it's thin), waited 2 hours, and laid on 5 or 6 layers of john deere blitz black.
Here's hoping it turns out pretty.
I've toyed with the idea of painting the relief of the badge and stripes in blue, but it would probably clash with the green.
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I wanted to paint the relief in my valve cover too, but never did. Good luck if you do.
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(http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-D4wioPGum8c/U2axibnh9xI/AAAAAAAAFvI/U7tdBezJQWk/w1577-h889-no/IMG_20140504_152942_957.jpg)
i think i need to find a sunny spot in the back yard where it can bake in the sun for a few days.
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Looks sweet.
Try the oven at 350 - ?
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Is that what's recommended for spray enamel? Seems kinda high.
. :Sent by pneumatic tubes
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depends on the brand, I had one high temp ceramic that I think was baked at 450f. Yes, pre married status I always had something in the kitchen that "didn't belong" the wife said. Apparently an atv carb in the sink and header cooking in the oven were not normal uses for the kitchen???
I would think you can do cooler temps for longer times. Say 200f for several hours instead of 350f for 30 minutes. Read what it says on the can and go that route. Search if you don't have the can any longer.
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huh. not finding anything online for john deere blitz black, though the MSDS stresses that ovens should have a fresh air circulator to prevent explosive conditions.
I did about an hour and a half at 250f tonight. I didn't see anything on the can earlier but I'll go read it again tomorrow.
the instructions are a little odd - stating that each layer should be allowed to reach a tacky stage before spraying another layer, and that additional layers should be applied "before 30 minutes or after 36 hours have passed" or something like that.
it got several layers. I'm not really in a hurry and passive curing by sunlight should be enough. But I'm anxious for it to be ready anyway.
Went ahead and spent $110 on shifter linkage parts from missinglinkz. hope it pays off.
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Bummer bout the valve. I really don't know the history on those other than they came with the parts package I acquired and they looked to fit the bare prothe AAZ head. I assumed the previous owner's plan was to marry them up. Apologies if I gave the impression that they were in good condition.
I'm guessing that those intake and exhaust that I included all came from the same head. That's the easiest answer, right? If that is a reasonable assumption, you can rule out the 1.6 hydro as being the donor as the intake valve faces are too big for that application. So, you are looking for either an 8mm AAZ or an 8mm TDI. Do they make 8mm TDI? Not sure, but since it is an AAZ head I'd look for AAZ valves with 8mm stems. Just searched on Autohaus and didn't find them. They have the AAZ valve guides in 7mm though, which is a bit troubling as I thought the 8mm AAZ were more common than 7mm AAZ.
Looks like your build is coming along nicely. Valve cover looks sharp. Mine build has slowed to a crawl as I'm out in the garden and yard since the weather has warmed. Good Luck.
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Today i took stock of the hardware, decided which bits should be replaced, made a list, padded a few items a bit, and hit up my favorite fastener store.
$5, for a bunch of 12.9 black oxide socket head cap screws, nuts, bolts, etc. Not bad at all.
Then i took a bunch of little brackets and stuff to a wire wheel, then dremel wire wheel, and then primed. Mostly parts of the shifter linkage, etc. so much stuff that was original zinc chromate plated had gone rusty anyway. So what else to do but paint it black.
well, it's possible i could get stuff re-plated, but paint is cheap.
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no real progress today, other than a bunch of parts showed up, and i called the bosch guy who said, "uh, yeah, those aren't popping too good".
I asked what he'd charge me for nozzles, and will find out tomorrow, but $50ish shipped from gowesty sounds good to me.
goetze rings look perfect - the ones i looked at anyway.
Verified that, yes, I can get Rotella T1 straight 30 weight dino oil in a gallon jug at wallyborg for $16. And then dropped $27 on 5 quarts of castrol edge 0w40 for the Mk5.
New valve gets here tomorrow.
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Machinist rejected new valve for being almost 2mm too short. >:(
With a few heat and quench cycles (propane torch vs. water) and a lot of noise i was able to extract the downpipe from the rest of the exhaust system.
Re-hung the center section with a new cloverleaf type hanger. I think there is one torn in the back too but that is too close to the ground right now.
Extracted selector lever from shift rod, shaved off 30 years of grease w/ pocket knife, dropped in can of carburetor dip.
Drilled out the rivets on the shift rod bearing assembly, scraped off lots of dead grease, dropped both halves in the bucket of carburetor dip.
Noted a fair amount of wear on the relay shaft where the bottom of the relay shaft bracket lost it's lower bushing long ago. Considering hitting up the vortex for a better relay shaft. If I'd noticed this sooner i would have bought a normal short shift kit instead of the bolt-on version.
I had previously wire wheeled and primed the 'protective plate' for the lever w/ ball thing (diagram just says 'lever'), the relay lever (ball studs and inner diameter masked off), and the relay lever bracket, so those got a coat of black paint tonight.
Noted that the uro-parts bushing kit includes bushings for the relay lever that have a bit of play on their OD. Will shim with aluminum tape.
Need to hit the funky relay lever bolt with the wire wheel.
Noted with small degree of alarm that I'm not 100% sure where i put the new ball and matching ball-less lever. i'll figure out where they have run off to tomorrow. I had them just the other day when the stuff from missing linkz turned up. I cut the rubber ball off but didn't get around to installing the new one.
Need to pull the relay shaft bracket off of the car and give it the same treatment as the selector lever and shift rod bearing assembly.
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Got my RMA# for the valve that is wrong.
Cut up the old downpipe to sell it.
Froze my wrist pins and heated my pistons and assembled rods together with pistons using permatex ultra-slick.
there's got to be a trick to installing circlips. 4 of them went right in, the other 4 i fought with. Dunno what i'm doing wrong half the time.
Bolted the block to the engine stand adapter again, wrapped it up in the engine bag again, took all the bottom end engine stuff over to my friend's garage where we'll be assembling the bottom end tomorrow.
I've watched him build probably 2 dozen engines at the machine shop but i want him looking over my shoulder to tell me if I'm doing something stupid, since this is my first build. out of respect for his employer he won't be putting a wrench to the engine during the build at all. And i totally respect that.
oh, I found the new relay lever ball and the relay lever, pressed together on my bench vise, tossed in bag with the rest of the (clean) shifter parts. Too rainy today to extract the selector shaft bracket for cleaning - I did manage to change the oil in my mk5 and only got soaked just as i was putting the belly pan back on.
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(http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-l-o6QpgzD48/U27ozuhDAWI/AAAAAAAAFxs/2r6RKiSCwME/w1185-h889-no/IMG_0727.JPG)
(http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Wj0rfAr_F_w/U27ozq8oW_I/AAAAAAAAFxs/EH9mNu7Kt5Q/w1185-h889-no/IMG_0726.JPG)
(http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-t_5iMqsVLT4/U27ozvqzrbI/AAAAAAAAFxs/HI8yLK6n7bY/w1185-h889-no/IMG_0725.JPG)
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Well I just ordered my $12 exhaust valve with $30 shipping from RockAuto.
I'll probably cry if it doesn't work.
Also bought another can of green paint for the last few bits. The guys at the tractor store recognized me. I showed them shots of the block. I'll have to stop in with the jetta when it's running and registered.
Previously i had said i was using vintage john deere green -- I was mistaken. I am using the current john deere green as it is more gloss / less flat.
one thing, when i used my new, not the cheapest but still chinese dial indicator, i came up with a max protrusion of .025" - which would mean i need a one hole head gasket. I'm in disbelief. I need to find my feeler gauges and try the straight edge method.
didn't work on the jetta at all today, went to a junk yard. Bought a fistfull of odds and ends for my fiat but found no vw bits i wanted.
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It's purdy.
Don't know about the one hole HG for a 1.6 but a one hole for a 1.9 is very tough to find.
I had to resort to one from the UK and long story-short, I had to get a second one and a Northern member came through for me. Hopefully he will be able to assist you if needed.
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I just posted numbers in the FAQ section for NAPA altrom for the aaz HG, and they are reasonable too...The 1 notch is easy to get for the fiber gasket 1.6. If it is hydro you can use the aaz gasket very easily. If it is mech, you can use the aaz gasket like I did but it is not a bolt on affair.
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I wonder what it is like to work in such a clean place?
It would make me nervous!
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It's purdy.
Don't know about the one hole HG for a 1.6 but a one hole for a 1.9 is very tough to find.
I had to resort to one from the UK and long story-short, I had to get a second one and a Northern member came through for me. Hopefully he will be able to assist you if needed.
Thanks! I've whiled away many hours prepping stuff. It certainly helps that all the cast aluminum and rusty steel parts got hot tanked and media blasted.
FedEx says I'll have my valve in less than 12 hours. Their tracking shows it still in the UK. Hmmm.
I wonder what it is like to work in such a clean place?
It would make me nervous!
And that's just his garage! his workshop at the machine shop is MUCH cleaner and more organized. You could eat off the floor!
one of his tricks in the garage is that he has a room in his basement half full of rolled up carpet. Brings out chunks of it to work over, and just throws them away when they get dirty.
At the machine shop they actually vacuum and mop up.
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The ALE / early 1Z exhaust valve arrived and is an exact match.
Borrowed my machinist's straight edge and double/triple checked the piston protrusion. If anything my $40 chinese dial indicator was reading a thou high - by feelers i have a fairly consistent protrusion between .023 and .024 inches.
So I'll go see about that one-hole gasket.
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I just posted numbers in the FAQ section for NAPA altrom for the aaz HG, and they are reasonable too...The 1 notch is easy to get for the fiber gasket 1.6. If it is hydro you can use the aaz gasket very easily. If it is mech, you can use the aaz gasket like I did but it is not a bolt on affair.
AAZ hydro head on 1.6 block, adding turbo, so i would prefer the MLS gasket.
Will look at the NAPA parts.
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Just ordered my head gasket at the local napa. 58 and change after freight and taxes to bring it in from portland.
. :Sent by pneumatic tubes
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Not a bad price compared to something from the UK
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Just ordered my head gasket at the local napa. 58 and change after freight and taxes to bring it in from portland.
. :Sent by pneumatic tubes
The local napa did mine for 40 shipped. 29.00 for the gasket alone. I thought the napa online price was better than what they got you for.
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Picked up my rebuilt injectors from Goff Diesel Injection in SLC today. They were ready a week ago, it just took me this long to remember to stop by.
$190ish for parts & labor & freight for non-fancy genuine bosch DN0SD293 nozzles and shim to 155 bar.
Gave me a free bottle of stanadyne 'junior' additive.
Some day when money is less of an object i might spring for GTD nozzles, or maybe I'll try and find dual-spring AAZ injectors and lines, and have those rebuilt.
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There isn't much in the way of power gains to be had by changing nozzles on the IDI engines. The stock nozzles are huge, they are not a restriction at all.
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There isn't much in the way of power gains to be had by changing nozzles on the IDI engines. The stock nozzles are huge, they are not a restriction at all.
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I agree. Although there is a difference between the GTD nozzle and the others. It costs tons more, but I think for the extra fuel that goes through them VW designed them to be a little easier on the precup.
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There isn't much in the way of power gains to be had by changing nozzles on the IDI engines. The stock nozzles are huge, they are not a restriction at all.
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I agree. Although there is a difference between the GTD nozzle and the others. It costs tons more, but I think for the extra fuel that goes through them VW designed them to be a little easier on the precup.
yeah, I am not going for ultimate power or ultimate coal rolling. I'll probably be fine with what i've got.
Anyway, lesson learned today: Just buy a mk2 im shaft pulley. having already broken the flange off of mine, I filed a lot of that down, realized how long that was taking, and used my dremel and a half dozen 1.25" carbide cutting wheels to remove the rest of it. then filed, sanded, etc.
Whatever. I should have just bought the mk2 version months ago. But now the green paint is curing on it, so it's done.
Also sprayed the water fitting for the DS end of the head green, and fixed the paint job on the heater hard line.
Maybe tomorrow I'll go install the im shaft pulley and water pump and associated pulleys on the block.
Haven't heard from the machine shop whether my head is ready. I guess Tuesday I'll go find out for myself. i saw my machinist friend today (used his drill press for an hour or so, helped him a couple times with the muscle car he is building for someone on the side) but he isn't in the head business and didn't mention anything.
Also, I forgot to go to NAPA to get my head gasket. d'oh.
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since I'm done painting pulleys and sprockets, i got the IM shaft pulley, water pump, and water pump pulleys installed.
Very little else to do on the engine until i get the head back.
I suppose i should get to some of the other tasks, like the cv joints that need gear oil cleaned out and new boots.
I'm pretty sure i don't really want the control arms installed until the engine is mounted and the axles are installed, right?
Want to clean some of the gunge off of the transmission before putting the mounts back on.
i really should dig into the alternator and install the tach wire. Probably clean up the housing while I'm in there, check the brushes. i wanted a mk2 alt at first but eh. budget cuts.
Some parts of the shift linkage are soaking in naphtha having soaked in carb dip for a week. I should pull 'em out, scrub them down with a good detergent, and then probably bake them at 500f to make sure there's not still carb dip in all the pores (ask how i know about this problem) before priming, spraying black, and reassembling in car. I think there's still one piece of the shift linkage in the car that i want to remove, clean, paint, and put new bushings in.
There's a guy out here who will rent me a 2000psi (weak) power washer for $15/day. I figure i can pre-treat the engine bay with a water based degreaser and hook it up to the washing machine hot water line and get that area cleaned up, and i should probably get some por15 for the battery tray (not bad) though i will probably just wire brush it and apply 'rust converter'.
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Got the head back today. Bill wasn't too bad.
So this happened:
(http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PhS4lxYxjO0/U4Z27nJe1AI/AAAAAAAAGGo/clkmCSrh7d4/w501-h889-no/IMG_20140528_175303_240.jpg)
It's not really bolted up. I still need to block that coolant passage. The head bolts are in but only as far as i can turn them with thumb and forefinger.
I botched 3 of the holes for valve cover studs. I am probably going to just cringe and enlarge the holes in the valve cover. the really bad ones are on the back anyway.
About as disappointed in myself as I've ever been, about that. I thought I'd been both clever and careful. Oh well.
I clearly bought the wrong studs for the intake manifold and will have to get longer ones.
drilled and tapped the exhaust manifold for the EGT probe, shoulda done it about 5mm further from the head. gonna have to file a notch into the intake mani. ugh.
Oh and i managed to lose one of the teeny tiny internal pieces of the compression fitting for my probe. I know the aircraft spruce product is popular but i went with sensor connection (inconel jacketed probe hand made in the USA and tested to 2ms reaction time. they actually sell a "diesel sport" model. Which i bought.). I'll have to see about another compression fitting. maybe i can find one that is lower profile?
Yes, this is a muscle car garage. The El Camino on the left is the owner's labor of love. The Mustang on the right is the side work that pays for his labor of love. Well, one of them. There always seems to be at least one and sometimes two mustangs hanging around Roger's place. He's gotten a reputation - because when someone pays him to build a muscle car he builds it as though it were his own. He just wishes more of them were Oldsmobiles.
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Couldn't you find a vane style vacuum pump?
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Couldn't you find a vane style vacuum pump?
I didn't look very hard? It fell to budget cuts. the diaphragm pump works. I know the vane pump is better but i don't "need" it.
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All my probes are Sensor Connection as well. You'll have no issue getting a new ferrule from them - great guys - good stuff as well.
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All my probes are Sensor Connection as well. You'll have no issue getting a new ferrule from them - great guys - good stuff as well.
Well it's sort of a moot point because i discovered that i've bent the compression fitting, so i'm going to just order another.
I drilled and tapped another hole, so my probe will enter the manifold at a 45 degree angle with the end near the center of the inlet to the turbine. I'll plug the other hole with an alloy steel plug. I hope i haven't just doomed my manifold to crack.
I should be clear that i do want a vane pump, i just have some financial trickiness right now which i hope to resolve within a few weeks.
Anyway. I fitted the IP today. This is the 1.6TD IP i got in trade for the Rover pump i found.
I am unsure what the deal is with the fuel fittings.
The fitting for the return line from the injectors is obvious due to it's size. What bugs me is that there are two larger barbs, plus a banjo fitting with nothing attached to it?!
As circled poorly in red:
(http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-SLcFojsjmbk/U4gA3vQqH_I/AAAAAAAAGHw/6V3X_3jeojI/w1500-h846-no/IMG_20140529_172023_726.jpg)
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That's an odd looking pump... Never seen an LDA like that now have I ever seen that fuel supply configuration.
Can you take a picture from the injection line end of the pump? I see something else I'm having a hard time making out.
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Yeah i can't seem to find one like it with google image search. I got this from nwcali6. He said was running it on a 1.6 in his jeep and that it has an AAZ cam plate in it, 9mm plunger.
I'll take some more pictures tomorrow, since it's late at night now and the pump and engine are at a friend's house.
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I will say, the sprocket off my 1.6 bolted right up. but the control linkage is different from, well, all the other setups I've seen. linear rather than coil spring for return for example.
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I would guess the bottom right is the fuel return and the other connects to a missing inlet banjo...if it is like other VE pumps. I personally would take off the pipe from the LDA and just run a normal banjo to the inlet. Looks like no pump I have ever seen on a VW stock
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High quality pics here: https://plus.google.com/115750060043260405034/posts/MKimup2PcZB
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Looks like I can get an m12 double banjo bolt easily, and just add the nipple fitting from my NA pump and block off the third superfluous nipple?
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I do believe what you've got there is an NA pump that someone has put an LDA top on from a different non-vw pump. You're missing the idle bump lever that should be connected to the cold start and that LDA / accelerator lever are definitely not VW. I'm somewhat suspecting that they may not even be Bosch - there are some pumps out there made under license usually in the Asian market that are functionally identical but have some differences.
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well the pump body is bosch and has vw/audi marks.
But yeah. the top is weird and has no maker marks, and is missing the 2nd mount point for the VW linkage bracket. though the metal is there so i can drill and tap.
How scary is it to take the lid off of one of these?
Story of this whole build. Try to do something cleverly and get bitten by weirdness.
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OK, my LDA lid looks like it might be from a Zexel pump off of a Mitsubishi turbo diesel.
The lock wire on one of the screws is crimped with a tag that has a bosch logo, too.
the lid simply doesn't have the features to let me attach the VW style linkage. I'll have to work out what to do about that.
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I am guessing but is the bottom right red circle the fuel return to the tank?
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I am guessing but is the bottom right red circle the fuel return to the tank?
Well, considering that my pump has a banjo plug where the open banjo fitting is hovering, it looks like i need to remove that plug and install the inlet fitting from my NA pump w/ a double bolt.
So the largest of the two shown (3 total, 3 sizes) on the right must be return to tank, and the smallest must be returns from injectors, and the third one is just a genetic defect.
Best idea might be to grind it off and weld over the hole? *shrug*
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Any thoughts on the needlessly complex yet seemingly incomplete cold start linkage?
(http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-bwOd8igFmYo/U4jGia__BMI/AAAAAAAAGJI/qfVCRYVIuy8/w1128-h846-no/IMG_0733.JPG)
That pin in the lower left looks like it's supposed to have a tension spring attached? Ah, or maybe a retaining clip for a lever of some sort.
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Also, ladedruckabhängiger? Seriously? Germans, man . . .
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ebay seller 'chevotalandcruiser' has a variety of m12 double-banjo bolts. Not bad pricing. need to check the TPI on the bolt single bolt or the plug. This would allow me to keep using the crazy fuel line attached to my frankenpump. for whatever that is worth.
The other option is another single banjo bolt and chop off the arm of the line that reaches from the return double-banjo-with-tee with it's unknown function. But i think i will choose the path of least fabrication, and just delete the superfluous 3rd nipple on that thing. There are a number of options, from cut & weld, to crimp cut & weld, to cut & tap & thread in a screw w/ sealant.
I can either steal the inlet banjo from my NA pump or buy another. This one looks likely:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161317997045
on the other hand, selling a re-sealed NA pump w/o the inlet banjo fitting isn't a major deal because potential buyers likely have a leaky pump, right? which they can take the banjo fitting from.
Any clues what the solenoid on the LDA is for?
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Yeah the pin on the cold start handle was attached to the original idle speed control lever via a rod. Actually come to think of it the whole governor spring assembly must have been changed too as the idle speed lever is gone and that had its own spring.
The solenoid on the LDA probably allows the LDA to be disabled for emissions reasons. Again never used on VW so hard to say.
Hoping everything runs well!
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ah, and my zexel LDA lacks said lever. ok.
Well, hopefully this will end up working out.
The accelerator linkage is going to be interesting. oh well.
fyi the vw bosch banjo bolts are M12x1.5 - just ordered an m12x1.5 double banjo bolt and an m12 3/8" barb fitting for same. So the fuel fittings are nearly sorted.
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Not a whole lot of progress lately. Been trying to catch up on maintenance on the daily driver.
I made my fancy glow harness yesterday. It's all 10ga black insulation but the order on my excessive fuse block is the same. Should be ok.
Did most of the harness for the solenoid i'm using too. Didn't mess with any of the 4ga wire yet because I'd prefer to do that when the engine is mounted so i can cut to exact length. I expect to shorten and reterminate the lead i made to go from the OE glow wire to the solenoid w/ in-line fuse, but everything is crimped AND soldered. I haven't decided where to mount the fuse block or solenoid yet either - again, I'd rather have all the accessories mounted first.
Got my banjo fittings. They will be less than ideal but probably work.
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finally got the head bolted on. I had planned to get the engine mated to the transmission and back into the vehicle today, so as to get my engine out of my friend's garage, but my helper turned out to have a prior engagement that then turned out to take 4 hours longer than initially planned. Plus the car was a bigger pain in the ass than i expected.
Sprayed the head gasket on both sides with copper spray-a-gasket. I thought this was a miracle product until it turned out that it would be a miracle if i could spray for more than 5 seconds at a time without the nozzle clogging. I don't know what the deal is because a single squirt of brake kleen would clear it every time.
To seal off that water passage on the mechanical lifter block i cut two little circles of some high-temperature 1/16" silicone pad i have, stuck them together with permatex ultra copper, and put a dollop of the same on the block and on the top of the pad, where it meets the head.
I let the head sit on the block with just it's own weight (bolts finger tight) for an hour or so and then followed the torque procedure in the book.
Of course, immediately after this i saw the "do not use on head gaskets" statement on the tube of silicone. C'est la vie. I bet it'll be fine.
I had to enlarge some of the holes in the g60 valve cover and pop out two of the spacers from the vc gasket to clear my 3 poorly centered studs on the head. I can't recall ever being this disappointed with myself. I thought I'd been both meticulous and clever when i located and drilled those holes. Thankfully the really bad ones are on the back where nobody will see them.
So then i went home and set about getting the bolted-to-car bits of the shift linkage reassembled (repainted parts, new bushings from 4crawler) and the new control arms and moog ball joints installed.
It turns out that i neglected to acquire replacements for the class 10.9 M10 bolts for the ball joint clamps.
They were rusty as hell when i took them out and i literally had to beat them out with a hammer and a rod to get the original (bent) control arms off of the car. The passenger side even had the original riveted-in ball joint. And the boot was totally fine. Joint itself, eh, a little stiff.
Wire wheel, m10x1.5 threading die, wd40 to the rescue. you'd never guess just how frequently you'll reach for a tap & die kit until you have one on hand. This is how quick projects get drug out into long ones.
I also hadn't anticipated that i would need to put a jack under each ball joint to get them fully seated. N00b problems i guess.
And then it turns out that somehow a lug bolt went missing. You'd think i wouldn't have to have an argument with the guy at autozone to find out that they don't have them in stock, but you'd be wrong. Actually, the first one probably did have a bolt that would work in stock, but if i continued my conversation with the autozone representative it would have likely gotten vulgar.
Why do these clowns ask if it's for the front or rear?
Why do they even have the for-steel-wheels-only non-stock 21mm bolts in the computer when the 24mm bolts for alloys don't cause a problem with steel wheels?
Which is what i bought at O'Reilly.
Autozone has really gone downhill, and O'Reilly has taken the steaming turd that was Checker and turned it into an outstanding chain of auto parts stores.
But it's progress i guess. And i haven't yet managed to rent a power washer to clean out the engine bay anyway. My friend just, justifiably, wants to not be tripping over my engine stand.
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3rd round of parts turned up from autohausAZ, so i installed intake and exhaust manifolds permanent like.
I used no additional sealers. reinz gaskets. the intake seems to be metal & elastomer, the exhaust are metal plus some kind of crushable whatzit. I was slightly annoyed that it appears that they should be sold in LH and RH styles but vaguely recall reading that it doesn't matter if they are bolted on with the metal side or crushable side against the head.
Also put in my new oil pressure switches.
I met a guy who does custom exhaust and charge pipe in his garage at his house a while back. bought an intercooler from him.
I took the turbo back off the exhaust manifold and my tentative plan is to put a motorcycle cone air filter on the 2" race pipe on my intake manifold and do my initial timing as NA with no downpipe, drive the car over to his place and have him modify my AHU downpipe so it meets with the existing (replacement) exhaust, and make me some aluminized steel charge pipes to mate with the IC i bought from him. with a post-IC 1/8 NPT bung for water/meth injection. since i have a system i can install.
I might have him fab up a 2.25" downpipe in hopes of mating it with a 2.25" TT catback at some point in the future.
I also degreased most of the transmission casing yesterday. there's no grime like diesel grime. especially when previous owners apparently didn't give a damn about oil leaks. for example there was no gasket on the speedo cable port.
And i discovered that the lead from the battery to the starter has already been upgraded to 0/1 gauge. I wonder who i have to thank for that. whoever did it also has an obsession with covering things with corrugated split loom tubing.
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No gasket on the speedometer cable insert?
This will be interesting to see if you have a 5th gear or not. Did you renew trans oil? Was it really clean or less than clean coming out? (No, I have not read all the pages of your stuff.)
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I bought it as a non-running car. The guy i bought it from told me that the transmission had new oil in it, which it sure seemed to have when i drained it.
He said it drove well but had to be tow started. At the point where he decided to sell it he had already started pulling the engine.
he said the fluids were drained to pull the engine but when he decided to sell he had the gear oil so he put it in.
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Back from 2 weeks in the PNW.
No real news. Did outer CV boots today. Determined that one of the inners is about to go and the other is no spring chicken either, so i ordered inner boot kits and a lower shift lever boot from bus depot (who's price on that lower boot is 1/2 what GAP and other vendors want for it).
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Successful ghetto rigging of an old "Defi" brand EGT gauge that would look more at home in some boy racer's honda prelude.
I paid $35ish for this gauge on ebay, came w/o sensor or sensor harness.
(http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3WDrkacbieU/U8bjAE6ysiI/AAAAAAAAGuI/L_8rSBZ08cI/w1577-h889-no/IMG_20140716_143916_515.jpg)
i hacked up a connector with the same size sockets and insulated them with heatshrink. they are on there pretty good but i think i will also ziptie the pigtail to the gauge clamp.
With a butane lighter in an air conditioned room with a cross breeze from a fan i can make it rise to over 1000c, take off the flame and it gently falls, stick it in ice water and it drops like a rock. Seems to work fine.
I sort of wish i had avoided the hassle and just bought a reasonably priced gauge from sensor connection or aircraft spruce, but eh, this works, and should work well.
I've got a metal panel with 3 52mm gauge holes in it that will fit where the stereo goes. modifying the console to put the stereo down by my knee.
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So i went ahead and cut a hole in the inside fender wall by the passenger side frame rail so i could stick the mk2 TD airbox there.
It turns out that without removing the washer bottle bracket and cutting a bigger hole i'm not going to be able to mount it with the elbow thing attached. So I'll go without the elbow thing.
This all didn't line up as well as i'd hoped, but eh. Tomorrow my POR15 kit shows up and i can protect the edges of the metal i cut, and I'll slice a length of vacuum line or something to pretty up the raggedy hole.
I noted that there's a hole in the frame rail that lines up with a hole in the bottom of the airbox. And guess who has a really nice metric nutsert setter and full selection of m5 to m12 chromate steel nutserts. I think I know how I'll be mounting the bottom of the airbox. If it needs a water drain hole, I'll add one.
The AHU inlet hose mates up fine with the mk2 airbox and then runs right into the fuel filter.
Gonna have to relocate the fuel filter. Might attach it to the core support. Have to see if it fits between the airbox and the front of the strut tower.
I think tomorrow i will get a tie rod end puller and do the boot on the passenger side tie rod. Then i can safely clean the engine compartment.
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Factory hole in frame:
(http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-o_WkcKJmKXU/U8g8KZC1yLI/AAAAAAAAGu0/2I-bS6gj8s0/w501-h889-no/IMG_20140717_151204_801.jpg)
M8 nutsert installed:
(http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1Fsh3ExaXG8/U8g8ejpheYI/AAAAAAAAGvw/RPhguHJDZ4s/w501-h889-no/IMG_20140717_151336_332.jpg)
Blurry proof of concept:
(http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0McBAbvfB70/U8hzLhUQeyI/AAAAAAAAGvg/DkY6kluNqAk/w501-h889-no/IMG_20140717_190654_411.jpg)
Needs a fender washer.
Discovered seized tie rod end on the passenger side. And the boot where the steering column meets the rack is shredded too. Gonna call busdepot in the morning and see if they can add the boot to my order. Might buy a TRE from them as well or might source one locally. Didn't manage to replace the rack boot on the passenger side yet. Don't want to remove the end until i have the new one in hand.
Discovered that the alternator harness was pretty much shredded a while back. the insulation has long since failed on the power leads, and the ends were badly frayed. It was unclear what gauge the original wires were so i used 2 leads of 8awg that i had on hand. the alternator end is crimped and soldered into the original connector, need a new ring for the other end. a few other ends in that harness were in a bad way too.
It's not as supple as the original but it will last a while. Gonna hit up an auto parts store tomorrow for spiral wrap and a ring terminal.
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Warning I did the same thing on 2 mk1's because all I had was a mk2 airbox. I had custom larger alternator and was working with what I had and without thinking twice I cut those holes in the fenders. I had actually planned to do a different swap later but I got hurt and life got in the way.
Well I drove the car in a sudden downpoor of rain one day and the car started stumbling on the freeway and then it clicked. I slowed down and barely rev'd the car until I could get off the freeway and my air filter was soaked with the box and past the air filter.
I ended up using a flap of stuff laying around and screwed it over that hole I cut and left the little elbow off and zip tied it the best I could and its been ok since.
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Wonderful. OK.
Maybe i'll chop the whole protrusion off the side of the airbox.
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Went over to a friend's house tonight and he kindly braised my 3/8 npt bung onto my oil pan. I'll wire wheel it with my angle grinder and repaint it . . . soon.
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Turned out ok. need hose clamps, and i can trim another 3/4 inch or so off the hose:
(http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-44-Qx2e5lSE/U87tWDmBdJI/AAAAAAAAGxY/Tr2EuYqSelA/w501-h889-no/IMG_20140722_170135_241.jpg)
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Looks like that puppy will drain!
Nice.
Make sure that hose can handle the temps. Doesn't need to be wire braid or high pressure - but high temp (500F) The oil temp isn't the issue, it's the heat from the turbo and pipes that will get to it. I would also recommend good clamps like full circle SS.
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It's 300psi high temperature hydraulic hose. actually says 'flame resistant' on the side.
they didn't have any t-bolt clamps so i went with worm gear. oh well.
i had them fab me up an oil feed line today out of the 1/4" version of the same stuff but i need to go back and have them shorten it.
Also got the heat shield and MBC installed.
Did the rack boot and tie rod end on the car. went pretty well. febi/bilstein boot was Just Right Size.
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(http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-JkfKPNXfSF4/U9Aj1UVU_EI/AAAAAAAAGzw/4pP8jTJqSfo/w617-h889-no/IMG_20140723_150622_197.jpg)
The good news is that the AHU inlet tube lines up with the mounting boss on the PD130 intake manifold. The annoying news is that i will need a 45 degree hose elbow to plumb in the breather.
And just what the foo is that sensor right on the breather inlet, anyway?
The oil feed line i had made for the turbo seems possibly a little long. i'll reserve judgement on that until it's in the car and everything is routed.
Gonna have to clock the cold-side housing back a couple degrees to make room for the breather tube behind the valve cover, but I'll still be able to bolt the upper tab on the inlet hose to the boss on the intake mani.
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Breather inlet is a heater, not a sensor. There is a lot of water vapor in the blowby gasses, in colder temperatures it can freeze and block the breather, or it can shed ice into the turbo.
Factory just has 12V going to it at all times. Plenty of people will say you don't need it but if you drive at all below freezing and you've already got it then you might as well run it.
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Breather inlet is a heater, not a sensor. There is a lot of water vapor in the blowby gasses, in colder temperatures it can freeze and block the breather, or it can shed ice into the turbo.
Factory just has 12V going to it at all times. Plenty of people will say you don't need it but if you drive at all below freezing and you've already got it then you might as well run it.
Ah, ok. I do live in an area that experiences winter, so, some time between now and winter I'll find the right pigtail at a junk yard and hook it up. Probably just run an in-line fused circuit off of the power supply to my glow solenoid.
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That'll work fine. Cold air rushing through the intake tract can cool things down pretty quickly. I figure if it were truly unnecessary VW wouldn't have bothered.
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I'm sure it depends somewhat on climate. I've seen a series of photos of a SAAB with a front-mount intercooler that had it's bottom channel fill up with water, which froze and ruptured it. But that was in sweden.
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no real progress. I did about what i could do cleaning the engine bay with 'commercial' 409 and a garden hose with a good spray nozzle.
I thought about tying things out of the way but then remembered it was 100f out and this meant that nothing was going to stay wet for more than a couple hours.
There are still areas where i figure I'll have to go in with a plastic scraper. I'm not joking.
I sorta wonder how much more i can do with a pressure washer. There's the heavy stuff, and there's the yellow diesel stains.
I also bought a mk2 vacuum pump and some AAZ pcv bits from a guy. will be here in A While.
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Get a bead blaster gun and use glass bead....
Epoxy prime and paint....
GB
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Get a bead blaster gun and use glass bead....
Epoxy prime and paint....
GB
Heck, if i had the money i would do that to the entire car.
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seriously though at this point i just need to get the engine mated to the transmission and into the car and timed and running.
and with the whole air path plumbed.
but there is only so much filth i can surround such a beautiful engine with.
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Got the engine bay mostly degreased. Gonna work on it some more soon but it's been hot and rainy lately. I guess we have monsoon season in utah now.
AAZ breather assembly and mk2 vacuum pump showed up. Plumbed in the breather today.
I continue to be amazed how much parts interchange there is between years of VW diesel engines.
(http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-zdccLfLYYqw/U-KX_rizvBI/AAAAAAAAG78/S6oudeF9UKI/w693-h889-no/IMG_20140806_150235_294.jpg)
Since taking the picture I've secured everything with hose clamps. The spring clip for the breather fitting on the block is on order at the dealership.
Also installed the bypass hose between pump and head.
Secured the inlet pipe to the turbo finally because i located my bag of m6 hardware. I had to trim the flat plastic protrusion on the inlet pipe so that it clears the boss on the intake manifold. No big deal of course.
Getting closer.
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Nice sir, very nice
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This is probably going to do very well in an mk1. Hope you get it going soon
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thanks for the kind words.
there is light at the end of the tunnel. i just need to finish degreasing, get the clutch in and get it mated to the transmission, get it in there. well, somewhere in there i want to wire wheel the halfassed paint off of the battery tray and do a por-15 treatment.
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If you haven't bought the por 15, save the money. Buy rust bullet. Much better product, most will say "it is the same thing" but it isn't. Rust bullet has a deal on their website saying any of the 329 rust products out there they will go head to head with...But winner gets to post results on their advertising and loser pays for the independent testing. From what I found por 15 and Rustoleum took the challenge and both had/have lawsuits against Rust Bullet saying they shouldn't be able to bad mouth their product online, because they lost big. I found somewhere that Rust Bullet held up to over 14,000 hours of salt spray test. That and I have used both and the rust bullet is imho a much better product.
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As stated, the Rust Bullet is tops.
The battery area will need it applied from underneath (as much as you can reach) as well.
Last year, I applied this stuff to the pinch welds, floor sheet metal, and into the inside of the fenders as a rust preventative measure on four of my cars. Then, applied paint above THAT.
If you carefully open the can and not distort the lid, it will reseal and I have had it store for over a year without any problem. Neat stuff....wear some eye protection.....and, no, it ain't cheap. But, amazing sheeot!
Added: This product will also work to solidify rusted areas which have gone soft. It is best to sand or wire brush or sand blast first though. Your car could definitely benefit from it (looking at photo on page one). However, you don't need to get it done right now. You have some time before winter.
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well, I have the por-15 starter kit, so I'll be using that. I'll look into rust bullet when i run out.
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So this happened today:
(http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-BseHrkMq2Bc/U-VBDRob88I/AAAAAAAAG88/DTrvnceyJ-8/w501-h889-no/IMG_20140808_152822_318.jpg)
Turns out it's not hard to just tip a 1.6D from an engine stand right into the back of a '94 land cruiser, with your bare hands, provided that the cruiser isn't lifted much.
Much later in the day a friend who's actually done a clutch before came over and helped me install the new clutch kit (LUK) and get the transmission mated up.
I even had the presence of mind to clean the timing notch on the flywheel with brake kleen and paint it with a glow-in-the-dark paint that should glow bright green. Worst case scenario it'll still look like a timing mark.
I had previously taken my flywheel over to the machine shop and had the old guy who runs the place check it out. He said it was perfect.
I seem to have misplaced the baggie that all of the washers and spacers got into. I haven't been dipping into it much because I've generally been installing brand new wave washers on hardware as i go. I seem to be missing one of the bolts that attaches the transmission to the block as well.
But provisionally I'm ready to put this thing back into the car. I figure i can replace any one bolt on the trans at a time in-situ.
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Great build so far!
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Thanks! I'm itching to get the engine & trans back into the car but weather hasn't been cooperative and i don't have a covered work area.
Finally tracked down the block heater i wanted. As recommended by a friend who used to drive a mk1 rabbit diesel as a pizza man in this town, I'm putting a ZeroStart lower radiator hose heater on the bypass hose between the water pump housing and the head. He said that was what worked best for him, so, I'll give it a shot. Worst case scenario it's less invasive than the freeze plug heaters.
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At long last there was a convergence of fair weather and me being able to drag myself out of bed early enough to coordinate borrowing the hoist.
Kicker is, there's now a disabled el camino in my driveway. After we unloaded the hoist from the back, the old girl wouldn't start. Seems to be the starter. Roger says he has a rebuilt starter ready to go in it, but for whatever reason he wasn't able to come over and install it tonight.
It was slightly trickier than i anticipated to get it pulled up into the left and right mounts without assistance but it's in and mounted right left and rear now. Couldn't figure out where I'd put the front mount until it was dark out.
I'm now concerned that there may be interference between the passenger side axle shaft and my turbo oil drain. I may have to figure out a new drain on the turbo that will allow the hose to hug the back of the block a bit better.
I'm probably going to fab my own bracket to mount the fuel filter to the front wall of the rain tray. We'll see.
as expected the air intake plumbing all lines up just fine. That area is pretty crowded so the charge piping is going to have to go around the other side, probably.
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More progress.
The IP is in and sort of finger tight on the mountings. Injection lines too, after spraying some degreaser and then compressed air through them.
Found another annoying aspect of my frankenpump. The weird hard line that runs behind the LDA hits the clamp on the #1 and #2 lines if the pump is rotated toward the engine. Which means the clamp will have to come off if i have to rotate the pump that way. Or the hard line will have to get cut off. This idea has some merit. The zexel pump must have just been taller on the banjo end of the hard line, which would explain the 3 nipples at the other end. This whole thing is a clusterf@&$ and i hope it works.
I think i can bolt the VW linkage bracket to the frankenpump with a bit of a spacer. I may yet drill and tap for the 2nd bolt on the bracket, the one on the passenger side.
I'm considering Edelbrock's #8007 ball stud, I think with some other misc bits from the hardware store and/or junk pile i can bolt it to the knuckle on the zexel/mitsu linkage.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/8007/10002/-1
Took apart my alternator for cleaning. Found the slip rings well worn. I think, given budgetary concerns, I may just clean it up and put it back together and put a reman alternator on the to-buy list for the future.
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Yeah, this might just work.
(http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-hV4qEal5sLY/VAUSwB_1S8I/AAAAAAAAHC8/iRyA4PNL0_8/w501-h889-no/IMG_20140901_184334_748.jpg)
Oh and yeah, I can verify that the ZeroStart / Philips / Temro model 3200001 heater is a perfect fit for that bypass hose. And it looks like a MUCH better design than the Kat's heaters. i believe O'Reilly auto parts stores sell this one in the USA. I got mine off ebay at a savings of maybe $5.
The body of this heater is a single zinc casting. The coolant mixture is not directly exposed to the heating element, which is inserted into the casting as a ring around the coolant passage. Has a thermostat too. 375w rating.
That tab on the zexel/mitsu linkage is probably gonna fall victim to a cutoff wheel on my dremel.
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Looking good!
FWIW, I tried the yellow tubing on the injector returns and found it to leak when it gets hot. Other's apparently have been OK.
I'm waiting for new stock hose to arrive this week.
Possibly my engine bay gets a lot toastier than a front engine vehicle.
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hm, well, i hope it doesn't leak.
After i bought this stuff from mcmaster, i noted that hardware stores now carry a pinkish "micro fuel line" product that might work for the returns.
they don't have it in 1/4" for the bigger lines tho.
went ahead and bought that ball stud via jegs. fingers crossed.
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hm, well, i hope it doesn't leak.
After i bought this stuff from mcmaster, i noted that hardware stores now carry a pinkish "micro fuel line" product that might work for the returns.
they don't have it in 1/4" for the bigger lines tho.
went ahead and bought that ball stud via jegs. fingers crossed.
Tried the pink micro-line as well - nope. Fits tight, feels tough as nails. Go for a two hour drive and pop the hood - soft, weak and microscopic pinholes foggin the bay.
I'm down right now waiting for the proven, stock 3mm fabric braided OD type to show up via UPS. Ugly, yes - cool looking, priority #9
http://www.idparts.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=Diesel+Fuel+Hose&osCsid=554cff156eb60aafe6d8448b66c1fe72&x=23&y=11 (http://www.idparts.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=Diesel+Fuel+Hose&osCsid=554cff156eb60aafe6d8448b66c1fe72&x=23&y=11) - I bought two, 1 meter lengths cause it's cheap yet tough to find.
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I've given up on intercooling for the time being. Plumbed hot pipe.
Since the charged air port is on the top of the turbo i have, and it's small, i'm using two 35mm 45 degree silicone angles, a 35mm aluminum U-bend, and a really nifty 36mm aluminum coupler with a 1/8 NPT port in it that is marketed as a radiator hose temperature sensor adapter.
This will allow me to install water/meth injection. I have most of a slightly old CoolingMist kit (progressive controller installs in dash as a boost gauge), a 60psi agricultural-spec 12v wash/spray pump that will probably work, and a 3 gallon Ace Rotomold conical-bottom tank that i can likely mount in the trunk. I'd just have to suss out how to plumb a water line from the trunk to the engine compartment, and where to mount the pump (perhaps under the radiator where i won't hear it?) - i might need a smaller nozzle. I'm unclear on which CM nozzles i have, but have an itchy suspicion that on a 1.6 with a k03 i may want a Devil's Own D01 (about as small as they get)
That should help me keep the IATs and EGTs down in the summer and may give me a little extra power too. I'm not going to hook it up before i know the engine is broken in, so it will probably wait for spring time.
Went to a junk yard today and got a gasser 1983 jetta cluster and some other bits and bobs (including the appropriate connector for the PCV warmer). Did the tach modification for the alternator signal, and yeah my alternator does have a W terminal.
It appears likely that the 83 and 84 jetta clusters have the same flex circuit on the back, the major difference being that my diesel cluster has the fuel gauge under the tach, temperature gauge under the LEDs -- and the gasser cluster has fuel and temperature gauges under the tach and a probably dead LCD clock under the LEDs. My tentative plan is to pull the clock, temperature, and fuel gauges out of the diesel cluster, install the temperature and fuel gauges from the diesel under the tach, and reassemble with nothing under the LEDs, or perhaps some kind of blanking plate, or maybe a digital gauge (say the volts & amps digital shunt meter i bought for the glow system?).
I also bet it wouldn't be tremendously difficult to get a 2nd temperature gauge working, though I'm unsure how to wire it, or to what. I wonder if there is an oil temperature sender that will directly drive a 1983 VDO water temperature gauge. And exactly where i would stick it.
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Love your build thread. I've checked it countless times while prepping my own build...
In answer to your VDO gauge question, I believe you can find an oil temp sender that will work. You need to know the gauge sweep in degrees (90, 270, etc) and you need to know the temp your gauge has as a max. Find a sending unit that fits your specs and it *should* work.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/vdo-gauges/department/gauges-accessories/part-type/gauge-sending-units/gauge-type-application/oil-temperature?N=400267%2B4294951097%2B4294927084%2B4294944919 (http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/vdo-gauges/department/gauges-accessories/part-type/gauge-sending-units/gauge-type-application/oil-temperature?N=400267%2B4294951097%2B4294927084%2B4294944919)
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Thanks for the kind words. I'm having a hard time not being sick of the whole thing. Limits my ability to go get dirty in the hot sun.
The other thought i had was an intake air temperature sensor, which for now could go in the coupler since it's already tapped, and in the future i could add it to the intake manifold.
not important though. I'll leave the gauge in the cluster and just fasten it with some plastic or fiber washers to insulate it from the pads on the flex circuit. for now.
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Thanks for the kind words. I'm having a hard time not being sick of the whole thing. Limits my ability to go get dirty in the hot sun.
The other thought i had was an intake air temperature sensor, which for now could go in the coupler since it's already tapped, and in the future i could add it to the intake manifold.
not important though. I'll leave the gauge in the cluster and just fasten it with some plastic or fiber washers to insulate it from the pads on the flex circuit. for now.
I feel the pain! I've been poking away at mine since March now. I WANT IT DONE! ::)
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Thanks for the kind words. I'm having a hard time not being sick of the whole thing. Limits my ability to go get dirty in the hot sun.
The other thought i had was an intake air temperature sensor, which for now could go in the coupler since it's already tapped, and in the future i could add it to the intake manifold.
not important though. I'll leave the gauge in the cluster and just fasten it with some plastic or fiber washers to insulate it from the pads on the flex circuit. for now.
I feel the pain! I've been poking away at mine since March now. I WANT IT DONE! ::)
Yeah. And some of my friends are done with their (Very different) projects. One of 'em has a real mean looking nissan s12 now. so 80's it hurts.
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In answer to your VDO gauge question, I believe you can find an oil temp sender that will work. You need to know the gauge sweep in degrees (90, 270, etc) and you need to know the temp your gauge has as a max. Find a sending unit that fits your specs and it *should* work.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/vdo-gauges/department/gauges-accessories/part-type/gauge-sending-units/gauge-type-application/oil-temperature?N=400267%2B4294951097%2B4294927084%2B4294944919 (http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/vdo-gauges/department/gauges-accessories/part-type/gauge-sending-units/gauge-type-application/oil-temperature?N=400267%2B4294951097%2B4294927084%2B4294944919)
The spare temperature gauge is a 120c 90 degree sweep, so it looks like 323-095 will likely work as an oil temperature gauge. I'll have to puzzle a bit over where i could plumb it in. Possibly tee off of the turbo oil feed. it's how that is tricky.
Thanks for the tip.
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My #1 power tool for finishing projects is my ipod equipped with an audiobook. It's like watching a movie inside my head and when the 'movie' is over I look around and am always amazed at what the my 'other self' got done in the mean time.
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Doing some additional work today.
Have bought the wrong size hose for my oil cooler twice now. Gates LOL 3/8 doesn't begin to fit, 1/2 is loose enough that i question whether i can seal it with a clamp. I guess i go back and enquire as to a 5/16?
Turbo hot pipe is finalized.
Broke off a brass nipple in the 2nd sensor port i added to my oil filter housing. I guess we have settled the question of whether the aluminum is strong enough for hand-tapped 1/8 npt?
Discovered a nugget of joy in the fuse panel while pulling EGT and boost through the firewall:
(http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-fZ95mSDSAwo/VCXpRD7kiCI/AAAAAAAAHP0/nKMqz7w3sYU/w1580-h889-no/0926141626.jpg)
Seriously, Russ? Seriously? I know Dayton didn't do that.
That yellow wire goes through a firewall grommet, across the engine side of the firewall to the passenger side, and is loosely draped across the diesel hard lines on it's way back to the lift pump.
Unfused.
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Here's my charge piping:
(http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ZzuYuvzIQ9Q/VCX2tRwu4_I/AAAAAAAAHQ0/6RXzRtQllBc/w652-h889-no/0926141728.jpg)
Note the brass dingus poking down from the coupler - this is where i can put a watermeth nozzle. easy peasy.
In other news, under close examination the cluster that came in the car brings to mind the phrase "hacked by a blind woodsman". I also note that the title clearly states "vehicle is exempt from odometer requirements" suggesting that this isn't even the original cluster and the mileage on it is meaningless. I think I'll install the gasser cluster w/ it's modified tach and it's pristine speedo.
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Where did you get that small collar for the water/meth injection? I have seen larger stainless ones and such, but I'm curious as to what you used. :)
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It's sold on ebay as a coolant temperature adapter. I got the one specified for 36mm radiator hose, fits perfect with the 35mm 45 degree hoses. has a 1/8 NPT port. And a screw for a ground wire.
They come in a variety of sizes, but i don't see them as big as the 2" inlet on my race pipe.
Like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321376279452
The hose clamps that come with it are the worst junque. The worm gear skips when you start to get tight. i threw them away.
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You could fairly easily cut that intake volume in half without negatively affecting flow by having your intake connection do a quick 90 bend toward the back.
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You could fairly easily cut that intake volume in half without negatively affecting flow by having your intake connection do a quick 90 bend toward the back.
Agreed. But after cutting the race pipe to a nub I'd have to have it turned again to put a bead on it for the silicone, and at this length i don't think it's a big deal right now.
I'd probably get charged a full hour for machining. That's at least $65 out here.
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It's sold on ebay as a coolant temperature adapter. I got the one specified for 36mm radiator hose, fits perfect with the 35mm 45 degree hoses. has a 1/8 NPT port. And a screw for a ground wire.
They come in a variety of sizes, but i don't see them as big as the 2" inlet on my race pipe.
Like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321376279452
The hose clamps that come with it are the worst junque. The worm gear skips when you start to get tight. i threw them away.
Thank you. Aviation clamps FTW! ;D
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and anyway, aren't 90 degree turns frowned on in charge piping?
admittedly my friend with a big turbo 1Z in his caddy has less going on in that path.
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Further excuses:
1: I'm planning ahead, eventually I'll find an intercooler configuration that will work, and at that point a few inches here and there are nothing compared to the jog to a front mount IC.
2: If i wanted to go all out I'd cram a water-to-air right behind the intake manifold and then pay a fabricator to give me a smooth 180 degree into the PD130 manifold.
3: When i add watermeth injection, it will need that 20 inches or so in order to absorb heat, cool the intake, and increase the oxygen density in the combustion changer. It's said that during WWII the nazis had already mastered the art of direct injection, but never got anywhere with water injection on forced induction aircraft engines because they assumed direct injection was best. Our guys, on the other hand, were doing 83psi with multiple superchargers + watermeth injection.
4: I am lazy.
5: I am running out of excuses.
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Ah, I didn't know you didn't make it yourself. As far as beading goes I do my own.
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a269/libbybapa/100_1446.jpg)
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a269/libbybapa/100_1445.jpg)
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a269/libbybapa/100_1453.jpg)
I don't think two reduced radius 90° turns are any worse than your u-bend. I'd certainly have more concern about intake volume than a couple 90° turns. You could still run a silicone 90° right on the race pipe and then another to go toward the turbo. Anyway, what you have will work and the additional lag probably won't be particularly noticeable. Carry on.
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Is that bead tool homemade? I see it's a pair of crapsman vise grips.
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Yes, I made it from a pair of vice grips.
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yeah, strictly tinker toy at this point.
I hadn't considered 90's. I can't find a 35mm to 55mm 90 degree silicone. So, I'd keep the straight reducer I've got, then a 35mm aluminum 90, and a silicone 90 into the fancy coupler w/ the port. I guess that would indeed shave some inches.
i don't see a lot of really tight aluminum 90's though. i could make a tool, but, bah.
I really wish i had a fully enclosed, air conditioned garage. I don't even dream about having my own lift, I'd be content to get a car up on four 6-ton harbor freight jack stands just so long as i don't have to get drenched in sweat while i work on it. or, the other four months of the year in utah, frost bit.
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Here's one that is 38mm to 51mm. (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-5-2-3-PLY-90-DEGREE-ELBOW-TURBO-INTERCOOLER-INTAKE-SILICONE-REDUCER-HOSE-BLACK-/350805293521?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51ad9ff9d1&vxp=mtr) I'm sure it would stretch to 55mm and clamp to 35mm. I also fully understand just going with what you have.
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yeah, strictly tinker toy at this point.
I hadn't considered 90's. I can't find a 35mm to 55mm 90 degree silicone. So, I'd keep the straight reducer I've got, then a 35mm aluminum 90, and a silicone 90 into the fancy coupler w/ the port. I guess that would indeed shave some inches.
i don't see a lot of really tight aluminum 90's though. i could make a tool, but, bah.
I really wish i had a fully enclosed, air conditioned garage. I don't even dream about having my own lift, I'd be content to get a car up on four 6-ton harbor freight jack stands just so long as i don't have to get drenched in sweat while i work on it. or, the other four months of the year in utah, frost bit.
I know how you feel about the garage. This past year and a half is the first time in more than 5 years I've had a garage to work in. It's hard to take a garage for granted when you've been working in the dirt for so long... :)
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Oh, i forgot to mention.
The edelbrock ball, er, nut? (not a stud) proved a disappointment. The ball is maybe 6mm diameter, vs. the 8mm i thought it was gonna be.
The problem with ball studs is that they typically aren't long enough to go through the stupid knuckle on the end of my weird linkage on the IP. I need a stud with about 15mm of thread on it, most are 10mm.
I'm beginning to wonder if i'm gonna end up having something machined.
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Hey we're back.
a lot has happened. But i still haven't timed the engine.
Got all the accessories bolted on. Found a manual steering rack that needs some love but the price was right. PO tells me that the power steering pump worked, so i think i will stick with power steering for now.
Bought a set of Crane Cams rocker arm adjusters, one of these seems to work to fix my linkage issues. Also broke out the dremel and trimmed a whole lot of BS off of the crazy linkage. Also deleted the stupid hard line from the IP and the superfluous 2nd shutoff solenoid.
Plumbing in the saab oil cooler is proving to be a pain in the butt.
kicking myself again for not deciding up front to service both inner and outer CV joints. First time it was because that would have made it very easy to strip the rust off and repaint the axles. This time it's because the left inner turns out to have some bad wear. long story short i bought a surtrak left axle complete with both CVs from rockauto but the stiffness of the outer worries me.
As i had been concerned, the turbo oil drain does interfere with the RH axle. Working on another solution.
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OK, oil cooler is plumbed.
It was one of those situations where the solution came to me in a flash of insight, and then disappeared. and took me weeks to reacquire.
impossible to explain without pics. The basic idea is that there is a semi-S-curve at which the hoses are not kinked and not running into the radiator or alternator. but the exact way to get there had escaped me for some time.
took another look at my cheap crappy axle and the outer boot on it is torn. ugh.
got the missinglinkz shift rods measured to length, tightened down, and installed. fingers crossed. need to take another whack at aligning the main shift rod.
It looks like the short shift kit is gonna hit the downpipe that i haven't had fabricated yet. I need to try recentering the engine. I bet it can shift almost a cm to the left.
I guess at this point I'm done taking the radiator out and could start adding coolant.
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Haven't decided what to do about my stupid axel issue. Leaning toward sourcing an outer cv boot kit locally and just transferring my known-good german-made outer CV to the chinese axle. It'd save time and probably won't be more expensive than return shipping.
Waiting on parts to have another go at the turbo oil drain. Should be here fridayish at the latest.
So I'm gonna try and get electrical worked out before then. And i guess it's high time i timed the engine.
If all goes well, I may be able to fire this thing up this weekend.
There's a local monthly car gtg that is having their last event of the year on the 18th, i may have to get on the horn to my insurance co. about adding the jetta to my insurance, and head down to the county building to register it.
In Utah, due to a bill passed into law a couple years ago, vehicles 30 years old and older "used only for participation in motor enthusiast events, and occasional driving" ('occasional' being undefined) can pay an extra $15, fill out a form, and get a personalized license plate with a sticker on it depicting a generic early automobile and 5 letters. I'm thinking "KOHLE". and with this particular registration, the vehicle is not subject to emissions OR safety inspections. Though you can still get pulled over for blatantly unsafe conditions and get a fix-it ticket. No deleting the wipers and then driving in the rain. Bumper delete not always tolerated. etc.
So if by some luck i get it running friday or saturday, I can get an alignment and drive it.
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(http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-HHLKA80xPmA/VEG1F7CQx4I/AAAAAAAAHZY/19hA3CJr6PQ/w500-h889-no/1017141831a.jpg)
So this is the new, doesn't interfere with the axle version of the oil drain.
I think it'll be fine given how much bigger all the plumbing is than the orifice that is draining oil.
Since I now have a 1/2" NPT female on the turbo and a 3/8" NPT female on the pan, if this gives me any trouble I will find someone with good tubing flare & bend tools and make a single solid line with the subtle sigma curve (or a big loop) required to avoid the axle w/ this turbo. 1/2" stainless steel perhaps.
I'd also like to point out that you should never, ever, buy any "surtrack" products.
initially i had made a regrettable decision to only service the outer cv joints. That went off without a hitch. Then i realized that i was stupid not to do the inners, and ordered inner boot kits.
RH inner was fine.
LH inner, well, has some deep gouges in the inner race.
Mind you, I don't want to spend ANY money on these axles. The plan is to find (in a junk yard, or someone parting out) an 85-up cabriolet or rocco and get oem 100mm axles, joints, and spindles. Clean up the spindles and have new bearings pressed in. Have the shafts media blasted and maybe powder coated. Install 100mm flanges in the 020-7a with the 80% shim kit from peloquin.
I did actually try to get an inner joint from a junk yard mk1. Couldn't get all the bolts out, stripped the head of one, didn't have my cordless drill with me. The next day they crushed the car. oh well.
It turns out that it's cheaper to get a complete half-shaft via rock auto than to get a Meyle inner joint. Empi sold their axle business to "USA Industries" a few years ago and what you get when you order an Empi axle these days is getting very bad reviews on the vortex. So i bought a Surtrack half shaft assembly because i couldn't find any negative reviews.
Box arrives, I unpack it, check everything out, throw away box.
Two days later i go to install the shaft and note that the outer boot is already torn, right on the edge of the joint where it would tear if it got smacked against something.
I didn't want to deal with a return and i don't want an outer boot that is that fragile anyway so i bought a boot kit from napa yesterday, and then spent 2 hours failing to get the outer joint off the shaft. Ultimately i damaged the joint trying to get it off. My guess is that the circlip inside the joint isn't properly formed and instead of slipping inside the joint and letting it slide out, it's caught between the joint and the splines and is now bent over and going nowhere.
So i took the inner joint off of that shaft and installed it on the rusty old OEM shaft with the extra Rein inner boot kit i already had.
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Looking good. Nice work on the line!
Sent from the moon, via Tapatalk
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Thanks. The idea of a 1/2" soft copper compression-fitting drain line appeals to me so much that i might just try to implement it next summer. on principle. But this looks like the above should work ok.
Forgot to mention, I have successfully mounted a single-din stereo head unit in the shifter console. And mostly successfully mounted 3 gauges in the stereo cutout of the dash bezel. I'm not 100% happy with either implementation but hey.
since i have a thing for doing things some kind of "right way" I have a mk3-ish car-side metra wire harness that I will be hooking up on the car side.
It's probably normal that i have 3 pair of red and brown wires for speakers, right? but why three?! I've decided to install speakers in doors and deck and figure out which channel is which before connecting to the stereo harness. I just have to figure out the 'right' way to cut 6x9 holes in the deck. Anybody want to buy my OE 3" or whatever rear deck speaker pods?
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Copper tends to work harden due to diesel vibrations and then crack. I would not use copper without rubber hose isolating it on each end and then there wouldn't be any point.
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Copper tends to work harden due to diesel vibrations and then crack. I would not use copper without rubber hose isolating it on each end and then there wouldn't be any point.
Interesting, even though the turbo and oil pan are largely vibrating in unison?
How about stainless steel?
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Another view of what you have would help but from what I can see in the photo, it looks fine as is.
Whatever you do, keep some flex in it. Yea, it all vibrates together (sorta) but heat changes things more than you think and some parts get much hotter than others.
A cracked return will dump your oil right quick.
Keep up the great work.
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Yeah that makes a lot of sense.
The House of Hose is generous with their cutting so i have almost 3 feet of 5/8" Gates LOL hose spare.
Today i finished the ground wiring for the headlight relay harness. I'm hoping and expecting that 12awg from relay to the RH headlights won't appreciably dimm those lights but i guess i am prepared to apply another relay or so and have equal lengths of wire from the starter +12 stud to each set of relays.
I finalized the oil sensors and oil feed for the turbo on the filter housing as well. it doesn't appear that the feed hose will flop down onto the exhaust manifold but i will zip-tie it to the heater hard line anyway.
I think i have resolved the coolant leaks. Serves me right for not putting proper torque on _all_ hose clamps when fitting hoses.
At this point i could put oil in the engine but i feel like i should wait until i am pretty sure i have timed the engine properly and then pour it liberally over the cam right before turning over the engine for the first time. I also think i might see if i can drop the pan one last time and then seal up the pan and windage tray with the "oil resistant" black RTV after wiping everything down with acetone. my machinist friend does this on every engine he assembles and the shop he works for has a guarantee against oil leaks, so it figures that it's a good idea. he's been there for 11 years.
he also says that he has statistics showing that engines built with graphite impregnated seals are less likely to leak than the ones built with brown rubber seals, fwiw. 11 years of noting what kind of seal was installed on engines that came back under warranty.
anyway, things standing between me and a running diesel coupe:
A few wiring things to be sorted. fan, windshield washer, proper engine ground, couple other things. today i started running wire for the oil pressure sender, fog light relay, and etc. Need to figure out where to mount the fuse block for the glow harness. I did finally mount the solenoid and hook it up to the old glow power lead and ground.
The IP is mounted with the wrong hardware. hex cap bolts fell into my hands when i was test fitting and they are still there. I'll probably just go buy some short 8mm bolts, and i am pretty sure there should be some beefy washers too.
There was a mishap when installing the engine and trans and i need to pull the PS pulley off of the crank and straighten it. I don't want to talk about it. i also need to find my crowbar aka "Old Blue" and re-center my engine to the far right extreme for shift linkage clearance.
Need to finish my cluster modifications and put the new cluster in. At least i'm assuming that the cluster should be present when starting - actually now that i think about it, the engine probably doesn't care. I have a strip of a dozen warm-white LEDs installed where the 2 cluster illumination bulbs used to be. I have figured out where to connect the ground lead to the cluster but i think i will need to get creative with the illumination power lead to the cluster, probably solder in a Y split with a spade terminal. Oh, and i have a VDO hour meter that i want to install somewhere. because diesel. It was very cheap, and it's waterproof. I could install it in the rain tray maybe, or perhaps in the 'shelf' under the dash. Same power source as the fuel shutoff solenoid at any rate.
I've decided to not bother installing the exhaust tunnel heat shield until summer. i might want exhaust tunnel heat this winter. and next fall i may take a whack at retrofitting a mk6 PTC cabin heater. Physical install aside, it appears that it may require little more than a rotary switch hooked up to switched power selecting 1, 2, or 3 heating elements. Speaking of climate control, a friend has been extracting a dealer-installed (non-factory) AC system from his early caddy and i am gonna buy it all off him. I am pretty sure what i need to do to install an r134 system.
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I hate timing belts. I'm sure if i was doing this for a living (I'd be fired!) i would learn some tricks of the trade or just get better at it but i spent the whole afternoon chasing one tooth off on one cog or other.
The brass hinge as cam lock trick works but i think my brass hinge is thinner than the one used by the guy who told me about this trick. I ended up having to shim it with a lot of adhesive aluminum tape. good thing i have a couple rolls of that stuff.
I wish there were a crank shaft lock tool for the mk1 diesels. near as i can tell, there isn't. I also wish i had the lock tool for the injection pump sprocket.
basically after some trial and error with the ersatz cam lock, i figured out that i shouldn't tighten the bolt on the camshaft sprocket until I'm completely done with timing (should have paid more attention to the bentley manual) and then discovered that with the cam at TDC and the injection pump apparently at TDC the crank had slipped a tooth or two.
re-loosened the idler and re-centered the crank.
discovered that the IP was now off by at least a tooth. re-loosened the idler and re-centered the IP.
Discovered that i had slack on the wrong side of the crank. re-loosened, etc, PITA.
If i were doing this a lot i would need to buy the tool that locks the IP and fab a tool that locks the crank (maybe modify the TDI tool), and fab a better cam lock that that i can bolt down onto the valve cover studs.
As the light of day was fading, i managed to drop an M8x30 bolt and washer down the crankcase breather.
After some fiddling i got them to get off the intermediate shaft and fall down into the pan.
I then determined that my dial indicator is incompatible with my VE timing adapter and decided to call it a day.
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Woweee! Sounds like you tried to do all the "what not to do" things in one go...
It gets easier, trust me.
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Woweee! Sounds like you tried to do all the "what not to do" things in one go...
It gets easier, trust me.
yep, its all about keeping the slack between the cam and crank. i used to really have to fuss with them when timing them up but now i can do it pretty quickly and efficiently, but i did it wrong many many times and had to keep redoing it in the past. also gotta keep the cam sprocket loose with the bolt ran in, that way the only thing u need to align is the crank and pump. some times u gotta hold the pump a little clockwise(maybe ccw?) while putting on the belt so that there is no slack between the ip and cam.
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Slim, if you want to come by sometime this weekend, I can lend you most of the tools you need. I'm in Orem. PM me if interested.
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Woweee! Sounds like you tried to do all the "what not to do" things in one go...
It gets easier, trust me.
Yeah that's how i learn.
I've done maybe half a dozen timing belts in my life and they have all been more or less like this experience. diesel is just one sprocket worse.
I had the good fortune to find a respectable tech who would do my mk5 GTI's belt and water pump for $200 earlier this year. Worth the money, IMHO, for a daily driver. and i didn't have much free time back then. I recall burning two whole weekends on my mk4 belt - once to do it wrong, once to fix it.
the best part was when the M6 bolt required to retract the pneumatic tensioner on a 1.8T broke while trying to remove it from the tensioner.
Good times. good times.
I think i found a metric dial indicator compatible with my timing adapter on ebay for about $20 but I am going to see if i can borrow one locally to get this thing on the road sooner rather than later. zukgod1 may have one but his current shop is a good 20 minute drive from my house.
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Some have used an 11mm deep craftsman socket to lock the IP. It would be better than nothing.
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I recall being aware of that trick at some point in the past but didn't recall it yesterday. I was using the old crank bolt plus a bunch of tape and it didn't really work. I have both craftsman and harbor freight deep sockets in sae and metric so i should have been able to find a close fit. I think i have the belt sorted at this point but perhaps i will figure out if i have the right socket for the task so i know for sure next time i need to lock the IP.
.:Sent by pneumatic tubes
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Using Rabbid's excellent tools, i verified my timing belt positioning and set the IP to 1mm advance.
That's putting it rather simply though.
The bentley manual's instructions for adjusting the IP are sort of unclear. Vince Waldon's instructions are more clear, but the part that was still going way over my head for the first five tries was that the whole idea is that when the engine is returned to TDC from the dead spot in the plunger's travel, the plunger should have advanced 1mm. Or whatever you are going for.
Would have also been nice if either source had pointed out that it's fine if you overshoot the point where the needle on the indicator stops moving, that doesn't matter even a little, because there's a range of movement in the timing where the plunger isn't moving because it is fully retracted.
I find it interesting that some people shim the cam lock with feeler gauges when there is certainly some tiny amount of play in timing belts and in the IP locking pin. Not to mention the amount of additive slop between the crankshaft cog and the flywheel's TDC notch. One way or another, it seems that these things have to be dialed in based on actual performance over time. if there was slop in the cam lock that resulted in a .05mm difference in IP advance, that's negligible considering the ages of our engines and pumps, potential pump modifications, etc. I'm pretty sure we all end up either putting up with not quite right performance or tweaking it later.
Anyway. Sorted for the time being.
I had the alternator out for testing. oddly enough the kid at o'reilly auto parts couldn't test it, but the kid at autozone could. Tests good, but i know that the rings are in bad shape. We'll see how well it charges the battery. reman alternators aren't hard to come by.
and i broke the wire off of the connector for the shutoff solenoid so I'll have to repair that.
I'll want to put the cluster back into the dash probably.
I'd sort of prefer to put the lift pump on a fused circuit, and it would be neat to find somewhere to install the hour meter i bought. That means i need to identify and tap the line for the IP shutoff solenoid behind the fusebox, probably install a relay and an inline fuse.
I've got wires in the engine compartment waiting to be shoved through a grommet into the cabin for the oil pressure sender.
Also need to hook up illumination power to the 3 gauges i'm adding.
A very small amount of diesel has been sitting in the tank for more than a year. I think the first drive will be around the corner to the Maverik to fill it up with fresh new diesel.
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I find it interesting that some people shim the cam lock with feeler gauges when there is certainly some tiny amount of play in timing belts and in the IP locking pin.
There really isn't. When the engine is running, the crank drives the pump and cam and the belt is held taut keeping the timing of the IP and cam very precise.
Not to mention the amount of additive slop between the crankshaft cog and the flywheel's TDC notch.
There is absolutely zero slop between the crank sprocket and the flywheel TDC notch. The entire assembly is bolted solidly together. If you have any slop there is something seriously wrong that needs to be corrected immediately.
if there was slop in the cam lock that resulted in a .05mm difference in IP advance, that's negligible considering the ages of our engines and pumps, potential pump modifications, etc.
The cam is timing does not affect the injection pump timing regardless of whether the cam timing is advanced, correct or retarded. Similarly, the IP does not affect the cam timing either.
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Slop was the wrong word.
What i mean is, all the manufacturing tolerances from the crank sprocket to the bell housing, plus the inherent limited accuracy of eyeballing the timing marks.
"exactly TDC" likely can't be found without putting a dial indicator on top of cylinder 1. Just like any other engine.
It's just worse for us because the cam sprocket is necessarily not keyed.
didn't feel well today, all i managed to do was put the alternator back in and put the breather stuff back together.
either the belt the previous owner marked "PS" is from some other car or i seriously don't understand the v-belt routing. I'm under the impression that it goes from the crank, around the top of the water pump, around the power steering pump, and then back. The belts were already off when i got the car, and this one is far too short to go around all 3 and clearly too big to go around just the power steering pump and the water pump, which i am pretty sure would be wrong anyway. I'll have to look at the bentley again tomorrow. Curiously, NAPA offers 3 different lengths for the power steering belt in a non-AC 84 diesel.
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There are a number of different pulley and belt setups that VW used. Some have the PS belt around just the PS pump and crank without touching the WP at all.
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Well, i have double pulleys pn crank and wp, and the ps pulley is shimmed out to the 2nd position.
The belt marked alt fits the alt looped through the first pulley on the wp but i couldn't make it work for the ps pump. The one labeled ps is substantially shorter.
.:Sent by pneumatic tubes
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regardless of some unfinished electrics and no power steering, I finished up the last of the necessities and put the battery in.
The lift pump does an ok job of priming the system, such as things are.
I realized that i hadn't put the plug back in the timing port when it started pissing diesel. Oops.
There was another spill when i decided to see if i could get the last bubble out of the feed line to the IP by pulling it off the barb. While the lift pump was running. So i sprayed diesel all over the engine. but hey it worked right?
long story short I'm to a state where i consistently get white smoke and the occasional cylinder fires but it hasn't kicked over.
I've been advised to crack the injection lines and crank until they are squirting diesel, then tighten them back down and try again. Tomorrow.
Also, it was too late in the day when i realized that i could glow and crank a lot longer with jumper cables hooked up to a running land cruiser. oh well.
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regardless of some unfinished electrics and no power steering, I finished up the last of the necessities and put the battery in.
The lift pump does an ok job of priming the system, such as things are.
I realized that i hadn't put the plug back in the timing port when it started pissing diesel. Oops.
There was another spill when i decided to see if i could get the last bubble out of the feed line to the IP by pulling it off the barb. While the lift pump was running. So i sprayed diesel all over the engine. but hey it worked right?
long story short I'm to a state where i consistently get white smoke and the occasional cylinder fires but it hasn't kicked over.
I've been advised to crack the injection lines and crank until they are squirting diesel, then tighten them back down and try again. Tomorrow.
Also, it was too late in the day when i realized that i could glow and crank a lot longer with jumper cables hooked up to a running land cruiser. oh well.
Just be careful not to fry your starter… Give it a chance to recover. I had a friend who just kept on turning his motor over and over and over again, and then all the sudden the starter just wouldn't work anymore. It seems silly, but just make sure you don't let it crank for too long…
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Yeah, i did think to keep an eye on that.
.:Sent by pneumatic tubes
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Well, i am at a point where i can get it to turn over and then die
My gut feeling is that there are still air pockets in the IP. Earlier today, after reorienting my silly horizontal return banjo so that the return-to-tank is higher than the return-from-injector lines, I had the return line completely flushed of all but the tiniest bubbles.
In the last hour, it picked up about 6 inches of air pocket at it's high point.
Pretty annoyed by the coolant dripping from about 3 spots on the core support. I hope i don't need a new radiator. The hoses and fan switch seem to be tight.
.:Sent by pneumatic tubes
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Also, I've got oil pressure -- the light turns off during cranking even. I forgot to re-tighten the lower hose clamp on the turbo oil return after re-sealing the pan so i know I'm getting oil through the turbo. Water is flowing. IR thermometer tells me that the glow plugs are making the head warmer. well, at least #4 is, so i make assumptions about the others i guess.
It roars to life, the turbo whistles, and then it stops.
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It's hard to see from inside the cabin, but it seems like if i crack the injection lines at the injectors, 1 and 4 are squirting but 2 and 3 are not. They still get wet with diesel, but it's hard to compare the amount.
Are there any tricks to bleeding stubborn injection pumps?
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Resolved my starting issues here: http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php/topic,35281.0.html
Libbydiesel is a gentleman and a scholar and i am in debt to him. The beers are on me if he finds himself in Utah.
apparently i forgot that the previous owner told me the radiator leaks. I mean, he's a good honest guy and has been completely straight with me and everyone i've met who knows him -- he's part of the greater motorsport community out here and we have a ton of mutual friends.
I ordered a new radiator via amazon prime which will be here tomorrow for all of $56. I wish i could do that for my fiat - nobody makes a cheap radiator for a 124 spider 1800.
anyway, in summary, it starts and runs, plenty of smoke due to no exhaust system. there's a muffler shop in town that i will talk to about having a custom downpipe fabricated and tied into the original exhaust system. I can't spend three bills on a techtonics exhaust just now. I might ask the exhaust shop to make a 2.25" DP though, so they don't have to make it twice.
I want to recenter the engine before i take the car down off the jack stands. Found my crowbar so this won't be a big deal. I'll probably have to re-adjust my shift rod after that.
I also kinda want to not have a puddle of coolant under the engine when i do that. two buckets under the radiator for the past day or so.
but it looks like I'm on track to go register the car on Monday. I'm under the impression that a 1984 model year qualifies as "more than 30 years old" which in utah means i can get a plate with a drawing of some generic old-timey vehicle on it and never have to have so much as a safety inspection. Though of course the fuzz can and will pull me over and give me a fix-it ticket for any blatantly unsafe configuration.
I'll need an alignment. First drive will be around the corner for a tank of fresh diesel, but 2nd might have to be to zukgod1's shop over in saratoga springs. alignment is better with friends, I'm sure.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6tPpyJJW-yQ
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Congrats, but you'll probably eventually need an accelerator lever.
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Congrats, but you'll probably eventually need an accelerator lever.
Everyone is a critic :)
left it off to get a good idea of where the spindle needs to be. will fit the lever and linkage again tomorrow.
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Nice and tidy sir - sounds good as well
Congrats
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Well I re-centered the engine and transaxle as far to the right as i could for exhaust vs. shift linkage clearance, got a belt for the power steering pump, got over my amazement that the belt tension is adjusted by putting shims in the pulley, put the belt on, and got it back on the ground.
No small job. My floor jack has a range of 3 to 26 inches, and i needed 6 inches of wood block on the jack to get it up off the stands, in stages. That stuff makes me nervous, but I'm a big guy and the added height helps working under the car a lot. the HF 6 ton jack stands were a great purchase.
Also went and made an honest car of it. Personalized vintage vehicle plate "KOHLE" has been ordered. 90 day temporary permit applied. About half of my actual human socialization these days is with a bunch of european car enthusiasts and i am resisting pulling the trigger on a "euro" plate bearing "SCHLEPPER" for the front bumper. Also considered "KOHLBRENR" although that seems to be a surname meaning something like "stoker" or what in the days of steam powered trains was called a "fireman", while "staubbrenner" (dust burner, referring to a furnace that is fueled with pulverized lignite) is too long to comfortably abbreviate (stau being deutsch for "congestion"). Utah is pretty lax about front plates - they were briefly required during the year in the 90's when we had photo-cop cameras, until they were found to violate the state constitution. Can't be pulled over for no front plate and most cops don't bother to list it as a secondary offense unless you have really made them angry. And I'm in the habit of not getting pulled over, at any rate. I do not have personalized or 'euro' plates on my mk5. but i made a point of not bothering to install a front plate on it when i replaced the grille.
I'd hoped to take it around the block or maybe down the street and around the corner to fill it up with fresh diesel, but it was dark by the time i had the pump re-adjusted (now with linkage!) and i haven't actually reinstalled the dash bezel yet (no headlight switch -> no headlights!), and the clutch cable needs to be adjusted.
Also i learned that it is a very bad idea to decide to adjust the smoke and idle screws while the engine is billowing white smoke right out of the turbine housing (because i forgot to pull the cold start lever). I hope my lungs forgive me. The white smoke is very very bad.
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Today was about wiring. I didn't crank the engine over at all.
Stupid mistakes were made when i built my relay harness for the headlights. I've got new "e-code" h4 and h1 housings. Hella H4, "autopal" h1. the autopals are half the quality for half the price. But since the inner set of lights is redundant i don't care.
after figuring out the right way to plug stuff into the original headlight harness, i have headlights. Actually i might have two different sets of high beams, need to look into that. And the passenger side autopal is dim. have to figure that out.
I'm not a huge fan of the way the wire diagrams were done in the bentley manual and I'm not convinced that my car matches the 83/84 jetta diagrams. the factory manual for my land cruiser has really readable flow-chart style diagrams for each system that are really easy to understand. It took some time for me to figure out what i was doing. I just want to run power to the oil pressure gauge, egt gauge, and stereo in a manner that won't start a fire.
Also dimmed illumination power to the new gauges. I'm really confused that i don't have continuity between the gray/blue on the headlight switch and the gray/blue on the cigarette lighter harness.
A lot of the gray/blue illumination wires have been Very Hot and there is evidence of chicanery. I also for some reason assumed that the cig lighter power would be switched when i have childhood memory that this is not the case in a mk1 and adult memory of being annoyed that it was the case in the mk3 that was the first VW i owned.
The dimmer on the headlight switch is toast anyway. Ordered a new one. Anybody else think it's weird that mk1autohaus can sell it for $19 but the brick and mortar stores want $200?
Anyway the sins of the previous owners and my own mistakes mean i'm not done with the wiring. I found unused 30 and 15 terminals on the back of the fuse panel and ran 12awg power and ground for the head unit in the console, and hooked up the door speaker wiring. Gonna need an amp for the 6x9 speakers i want to put in the rear deck. I'm even installing the car-side harness that would exist in a mk3 for future generations to put a stereo into.
I will probably tee off of the hazard switch for illumination and power for the extra gauges. it has a nice fat 15 amp circuit that shouldn't mind at all powering a couple gauges. Plus for some goofy reason it's a loose wire rather than part of the big connector so i can make a neat little harness that inserts without having to cut stuff up.
There ain't enough antenna cable to reach the head unit. by inches. I'm gonna make like a 10 inch long extension cord. or get lazy and stick a 6 foot extension cord behind the radio.
It might actually be long enough (jack on the HU is way on the right) but not enough length to plug it in with a human hand while the console is pulled out.
(http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hSywEu-RGbI/VFmAWr_68bI/AAAAAAAAHic/2i_EAU21yBo/w1580-h889-no/1104141841a.jpg)
Also I'm gonna have to put 'sport' springs on this thing strictly because I'm kind of a big guy and the car visibly lowers when i get in.
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I really wanted to drive the coupe to the local european car nerd GTG. I didn't quite make it out of the driveway.
Runs but doesn't drive basically. As the clutch engages the engine stalls. I managed to move it about 80 feet under it's own power in maybe half an hour.
One of the times it stalled, all i did was turn the steering wheel sharply. This makes me believe that the power steering pump is toast. That and the telltale squeal of a bad power steering pump. I guess i should take the belt back off and see if things get better. i will probably start getting the manual steering rack refurbished for the car.
The alternator seems to be intermittent or just plain bad. Sometimes the battery warning light would turn off sometimes it wouldn't. sometimes the tach would react to the engine revving sometimes it wouldn't. The last time it stalled, the starter was able to get off just one sorry rotation. At that point i had front wheels in the street, and had to push it back up the (flat, level) driveway to jump start it to make sure it was an electrical issue and not something that had gone horribly wrong.
Going to look into how involved changing to the 90a alternator is. I've got the 65a now, and the 90 is actually cheaper. Different hookups of course.
I have no turn signals or hazard flasher. going to have to go through the diagnostic in the book.
What i did to power the extra gauges, didn't work. maybe i blew a fuse. have to check my work. The mechanical boost gauge (Di Pricol - very well made! and no useless vacuum range - I'll be replacing it with a CoolingMist control unit in the summer if anyone wants to call dibs) showed 6psi at the peak of my revving to get the car through some of the terrain between it and the flat of the driveway. I have an NXS manual boost controller that i haven't fiddled with, just installed it the way it was when i got it.
Temperature gauge behaves normally, fan turns on and off at what look to me to be normal intervals based on what i read with the IR thermometer. Oil pressure light doesn't blink or illuminate if the engine has recently turned. fuel level gauge is buried-needle empty which can't be right (bad sender?) though i have no idea how much fuel is in the tank, despite having found a receipt for 1.5 gallons or something in the glovebox.
Three out of four headlights work fantastic, the other is so-so. The Hella H4 housings w/ Hella 55w bulbs work GREAT on the relayed power harness i built. They may actually be brighter than the Autopal H1 housings which came with Autopal 100w bulbs. One of the autopals is dim. have to figure out what is going on there. Autopal = half the quality for half the price, but in a redundant high beam i don't care. I'm almost surprised i didn't just put in new sealed beams (the old ones were so old they had lost their silvering and taken on water).
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The vac side of a vac/boost is not useless at all. The most beneficial reason to have auxiliary gauges is to quickly detect and diagnose mechanical issues. Vacuum shown on the gauge is due to a clogged or semi-clogged air filter or some other form of restricted intake. It is very important to recognize it quickly as it can cause/exacerbate diesel runaway by pulling harder than normal on the crank vent. While it is true that a diesel will not normally have intake vacuum, it does occasionally happen and when it does, it is extremely beneficial to know it as quickly as possible. Saying that the vac side of the gauge is useless is a lot like saying the top 1/4 of your temp gauge is useless because under normal operation the needle never goes there, but when it does go there and warns you of imminent disaster is when the gauge is most valuable.
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Last couple days were all about electrical.
at some point something had gone horribly wrong with the illumination wire behind the dash. like fire wrong. from the headlight switch to wherever the Y split behind the steering column and to the cluster was damaged but sort of ok. From there to the cigarette lighter harness was pretty much gone, and surrounding wires were stuck together.
following that investigation and the replacement of both the cooked headlight switch and the first few inches of wire from the headlight switch out, I removed the bare burnt wire from the cig lighter harness back to behind the steering column and then installed an inline blade fuse holder behind the headlight switch and a new wire from that to the cig lighter harness.
I now have working illumination all around, after making a new, better illumination harness.
(http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-a19kHX7E0lU/VF1o9_8fPiI/AAAAAAAAHi4/HHIi-D9AfR0/w500-h889-no/1107141503.jpg)
(http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-sS2x4MFPOLY/VF1pBHTjGpI/AAAAAAAAHjQ/3RY_roNjTWw/w500-h889-no/1107141524a.jpg)
(http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--M7OnoXBspE/VF1pE3I4b6I/AAAAAAAAHjo/PzXUKaF5C-g/w1580-h889-no/1107141751.jpg)
(http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rFk3O-o_80M/VF1r4oj5esI/AAAAAAAAHj4/9Cui0v_lssk/w1580-h889-no/1107141756.jpg)
The green there is a dozen 5050 size warm white LEDs replacing the two 1w bulbs. this is turned all the way up, i can turn it way down too. I think the bulb behind the oil pressure gauge is a wedge base, and i hope it's a W5W so i can replace it with a much dimmer 194 or something.
I'm gonna need to fab up a bit of cardboard or something to cover the heater controls so the wiring doesn't get caught in it.
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Well i put on the snowflake wheels, re-re-re-aligned the shifter this time using a cassette tape as an SST, plugged in the block heater for a couple hours, turned up the fuel, jump started, and drove around the block!
I turned up the fuel too high, it revs too high when the clutch pedal is down. also i may have spun the clutch cable up too far. So there is some fine tuning to be done.
I need to find the clip for the cold start aid cable housing, or buy another, or secure it some other way.
There is still some electrical oddity though it might be because the battery is marginal.
Oh, properly grounded, the fake vdo oil pressure gauge swings all the way to 80psi on a cold start. I am given to believe that this is normal behavior with the mk2 oil pump. I'm gonna buy a real vdo gauge and sender when funds allow.
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Got the brass tee in to replace the rubber cap. Gonna take a while to get rid of the air in the system.
3/8 e-clip works to secure the cold start aid cable.
Discovered my taillight gaskets leak profusely. Bought some 1/4" weather stripping to build them up. Successful install on the left, too rainy to do the right now.
Hope to adjust fueling and clutch tomorrow and go for a drive.
Personalized plates arrived. Woo.
(http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-zmiNZUS_W_I/VHD2-6-QjBI/AAAAAAAAHpU/-CFjyoao3DA/w1580-h889-no/1122141337.jpg)
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Just took my coupe on it's 2nd outing! Down around the corner to fill up the tank. 6.75 gallons of diesel + a couple three ounces of power service winter additive.
Still don't have the clutch adjusted right, still battling air in the injection system, steering is way stiff with the belt off the power steering pump (need to look into that again).
I'm not entirely sure i got the speedo cable attached right. Frozen fingers.
Saw EGTs as high as 600f, but this was a very short drive. And there is no exhaust system post-turbo. Mostly I'm just happy the EGT gauge is working. I spent $20 on a 90's vintage DEFI gauge, including shipping! And then about $80 on the probe, including fittings, etc.
The exhaust coming through the rain tray is pretty bad, especially where the windows are so hard to roll down. Need a DP fabricated in the worst way, but i want to install a 'rocco k-bar or eurosportacc 4-point lower stress bar first, so the fabricator knows what he has to fit around.
Oil pressure gauge seems to be working normally but I'm about to buy a real VDO gauge and sender from egauges
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Have i mentioned that i hate the alternator bracket i have? I have the arrangement where the alternator has to come up against gravity to tension the belt. Apparently it slipped and fell during my quick drive to the filling station.
So yeah no water pump either, but the whole drive was about a quarter mile.
I got back under the car and re-tensioned the belt and put several more pounds of torque on the adjuster bolt.
Gonna have to find a way to pull it up toward the IP bracket. Probably build something i can tension with a turnbuckle.
I mean for now. Come spring i will be looking into retrofitting AC, and I'll invest in Mk2 alt bracket, bigger alt, etc.
Also, considering i drove about a total of a quarter mile, i'm a little surprised that i was already spotted by a local vw enthusiast that i vaguely know. Not a lot of coupes out there.
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In the rain the other day, determined that the taillight gaskets are a major point of ingress for water in the trunk. The left one got doubled up with 1/4" high density weatherstripping which seems to have sealed it well. Gonna do the other on black friday, and do the gasket on the trunk lock button at the same time.
Also have new license plate lights. Both of the original ones are cracked and missing chunks.
So close. So many little things to deal with.
Ordered the lower front 4-point brace from eurosport accessories today, on sale for about $150 + ship. Doing this first before sways because i want whoever fabricates my downpipe to deal with clearance issues right up front.
Also because i have bad cornering habits and don't want to wreck the frame.
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Got the power steering belt back on. It's slipping and squealing on hard turns. I sort of don't want to give up the power steering even though i have a manual rack complete with the bottom link and weather boot, just needs some new rods.
Went and showed it off to friends.
About 6 miles on this build now.
There seems to be some smoke rising near the fan, but only when i'm not moving, and I wonder if it's just my exhaust exits there. Nothing seems scary hot. No burnt wires.
Further update: Found the PS reservoir below minimum, filled to max with dexron.
fyi i saw EGTs as high as 600f and as much as 3lb of boost, but i was just tooling around side roads at up to 35mph.
No smoke once it's warmed up. Has to be pretty warm before i can push the cold start back in and not smoke and/or struggle though. I may need to advance the timing a bit.
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Further update: Found the PS reservoir below minimum, filled to max with dexron.
For what it's worth, VW uses a special power steering fluid that's not compatible with much else. Might want to check on that fluid choice... VW uses a partially or fully synthetic hydraulic fluid depending on the year, it is nowhere near the same as what North American built cars use. Pentosin CHF-11S is the most common.
VW power steering pumps are expensive - they also generally never fail when the correct fluid is used.
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The cap on the reservoir says "USE ONLY ATF-1" in stark contrast to what is said in the bentley about never using ATF.
Near as i can tell, that basically means dexron.
More confusingly, when i started looking up the fluids listed in the bentley, the non-vw ones that still exist appear to be classed as automatic transmission fluids by their manufacturers.
I don't have an owner's manual in the car. It's a 1984 jetta deluxe diesel and a lot of parts are stamped 11/83.
.:Sent by pneumatic tubes
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It does seem likely that they mean pentosin atf1, which is yellowish. What i found in the reservoir was red.
.:Sent by pneumatic tubes
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With the reservoir topped up and the belt a little more tensioned the power steering seems to work fine.
Verified that the tank sender is completely dead. Open circuit with the ohm meter.
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Turned up the fuel a bit and took it for another spin. Thought I'd go up the hill and see about buying some strut dust caps from rabbid
I'm seeing the same EGTs peaking at about 600f on my vintage jdm boy racer egt gauge, now boosting to about 10psi which might be where my nxs manual boost controller is set - dunno really. I haven't messed with it's setting since it arrived.
Making good power, no smoke when warmed up so i might turn it up again.
Sometimes it doesn't even want to start without the cold start lever pulled out. More evidence i may need to nudge up the timing.
Made it about half way up the hill when the outlet hose on the oil cooler slipped off and i left a nice slick.
Eventually my buddy showed up with, my jug of used brake fluid. we looped back home and i got more oil. installed a new hose clamp, tighter this time.
Made it up the hill, got the parts, headed down the hill, a block from home the outlet hose slipped off.
So i'm not going on any more long drives until i can get to the house of hose and get some 1/2" Gates LOL, which is the product i have on the turbo oil feed and drain. It's flameproof and rated to something like 3000psi. The stuff on the oil cooler is, some other product, rated to 300psi, and apparently gets soft when hot.
The fake VDO oil pressure gauge buries it's needle, even when the engine is warm. So either it's a real piece of crap, or maybe my oil pump's overpressure device isn't working properly, or something. My real gauge and sender arrived so maybe i will get a chance to install them tomorrow.
I have another pump, if it comes to that.
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It is probably not oil rated. I had a store sell me "oil rated" once...turns out it was heater hose and did exactly what you said yours did.
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Yeah that's possible.
the guy at the desk decided he needed to have a conversation with me about my application instead of just giving me the high-temperature hydraulic hose i asked for.
I'll be less polite next time.
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Today i finally installed door speakers. Some used kenwood excelon 5x3 coaxials that i bought and replaced the tweeter caps on.
So what i learned was, the reason why sites like crutchfield have such a hard time finding speakers that fit mk1 map pockets is not because there are so few options but because it turns out that the fitment is very close.
My excelons had a rectangular mounting plate, and most of that had to be cut off before they would fit in the speaker pods. Pain in the buttocks.
I initially feared that i had made a horrible mistake because there was a lot of buzzing and distortion but i found the major sources of buzz and after a few hours the speakers had shaken out the dust of their long slumber and right now are sounding pretty decent, if small.
Also it's normal for new capacitors, even film capacitors like i used, to go through some changes when first used. With electrolytic caps it's about forming the dielectric, but even in films you have microscopic points of vibration and physical change.
I'm a big proponent (and foolish collector) of vintage home audio speakers. I know that car audio is a wholly different game and i do try to get lightly used when i get used. In either case, electrolytic capacitors are the first component to fail.
I installed my genuine VDO oil pressure gauge. This one is from their "vision" series and true to it's marketing, it presents itself with an evenly lit dial of almost pure white numbering. Which looks out of place between the amber-on-purpose Defi EGT gauge and amber-and-green-on-purpose Di Pricol boost gauge. I'm going to try replacing the 194 bulb with a 194NA. Yes it came with the little colored condoms, in red and green. the red one produces a pinkish effect.
The fake VDO sender is still attached to the tee on top of the oil filter flange.
Rear passenger side marker keeps going dim, has to be jiggled. must remember to find my can of DeOxit and give it a spray and jiggling.
Found the bulb and holder for hazard switch illumination under the passenger seat. Bulb still good. Hazard switch illuminates now. yay.
Found the bulb holder for the cig lighter / ash tray illumination too. bulb bad. Found a 14v unknown wattage bulb with wire leads in my parts bin, soldered it in, too dim. I should do something with LEDs. I do have a bunch of 180 degree T1 LEDs. I could put a few green ones around the lighter and a few warm white ones around the ash tray, which i plan to use to store the filler cap key or something. Smoking is so 70's.
Wired in my genuine-looking chinese fog switch. This one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/180614374201 -- took a few weeks to arrive from hong kong. Looks great. The locking springs had to be bent a bit to work, just like the genuine-looking chinese headlight switch.
It's a two position fog switch. I put together a Y splitter so that both positions light my period-correct kmart-grade KC Hilites fog lights. No pigtail to match and my relay is out by the battery so i just followed the DIN terminal markings and it works great.
I have lm7810ct regulators in from mouser to replace the regulator on my cluster. haven't done it yet. Tach does funny things, like going to 0 when the headlights turn on. If anyone on this forum needs one, i can drop one in the mail. They cost less than a buck from mouser, and i was ordering $140 worth of other parts from them anyway. It's disgusting that mk1autohaus charges $28. I bought 4 so i have 3 spare.
'rocco-style license plate lights are in - an upgrade because they don't have big chunks missing that let water into the trunk. I have a replacement gasket for the lock/button i need to put in. passenger side tail still needs weatherstripping.
Discovered that the HVAC illumination is also missing. I don't even know what this looks like. Leaning toward four of my T1 warm white LEDs in series + a resistor. iirc their forward drop is more than 3v so they won't need much of a resistor.
Yesterday i also got the driver window regulator working with some squirts from a can of Liquid Wrench White Lithium Grease spray. I found a flexible straw that fit it's nozzle, and was able to direct it's foamy goodness to the back of the regulator track in a few points.
And then i gave the same treatment to the door latch and lock hardware. Works a lot better now. I can lock the door from the inside but i don't get the same positive latch feel as i get from the lock barrel. Something must be bent. And now i have a lock barrel that blackens the key with grease every time. I need to get out the air compressor and flush the barrel with WD40 and then with compressed air. All three of them.
Poured a small bottle ("treats up to 40 gallons") of Diesel Kleen into the full-minus-11-miles tank. I know this is foolishness but please forgive a little foolishness. I figure it's likely more or less the same stuff as diesel purge, which some people burn straight. Noted here for honesty. Wondering if there is something, anything up with my sketchy injection pump. I do have a line on some other turbo spec pumps, but those will need to be re-sealed.
I haven't bothered to re-fill the oil yet. I hope to get over to the House of Hose tomorrow over lunch. I envision myself tomorrow or tuesday night with my halogen work lights over the engine compartment installing new hose. Or maybe just removing the oil cooler and working on it on the porch, and then back to the car. I would really like to turn up on club night (wednesday) with my coupe.
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So what did you do to finally get it going down the road better?
In your other thread you were having issues with cold starts and just moving it down the driveway IIRC
Did you just tinker with your timing and fuel till it acted right?
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I still have hard cold starts. I think my shift linkage was way off and my ps pump was running dry and misbehaving, and i was underfueled. I think i can still tweak up the fuel a bit and i am pretty sure that my timing is retarded.
.:Sent by pneumatic tubes
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Lost keys. Feck. There's a locksmith who can cut keys from the lock number. Guess i know where i will be on saturday, after breaking into my own car.
.:Sent by pneumatic tubes
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Keys replaced. Despite what the watercooledkeys guy says, it seems that a number stamped in the hook at the small end of a mk1 handle is not a lock code. He requires a photo of a key, so, i think he may be fibbing. Anyway, i paid bob's lock safe and key of west valley city to cut new generic keys from the door barrels, and they work in the ignition switch. They can cut my vintage steel blank so I'll be back to have that cut at some point.
.:Sent by pneumatic tubes
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Decided that i had done a terrible job of plumbing in the oil cooler and removed it.
I hope the oil filter is sealing properly against the media-blasted surface of the flange. I have doubts. But it's better than losing all of my oil.
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Put another dozen miles on it with the utah association of euros crowd. Starts and runs better every time. Hills are still an experience. Need to crank down the mbc, turn up fuel, etc.
The suspension really is comical. Front left shock works poorly, front right is really stiff, both rears may as well be missing. Got some lightly used B&G progressive springs already and lightly used bilsteins on the way. Need to order bushings from GAP tonight
Getting woozy from the exhaust fumes. Really need to get it over to the exhaust shop for complete straightpipe.
.:Sent by pneumatic tubes
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Forgot to mention - last weekend a friend accompanied me to the tear-a-part and helped me pull front sway bar & brackets, and spindles and axles, off of a '91 cabriolet.
Yesterday i cleaned up and painted the inner sway bar brackets. Today i installed them w/ my eurosport lower front 4-point brace. I'm waiting for new bushings to come from GAP before i can install the front sway.
Got the exhaust tunnel heat shield i pulled off that '83 jetta several weeks ago installed too. Took minor hacking because catalyzed jettas have different exhaust hanger spots.
I wanted to have both of these in place before i take it to have a 2.25" straight pipe built into it. So the fabricator knows what he has to work around.
I'm debating whether to just swing by the raceland warehouse and gamble on their front strut bar. it is only $50 and 35 minutes away.
lightly used bilsteins are on the way for all 4 corners. Complete set of new bushings and bearings and whatnot for all four corners of suspension are on their way in from GAP and autohausaz. Probably should have ordered new bushings for the rear beam too.
Right now, the front left shock is sort of ok, front right is very very stiff. both rear shocks are really loose.
(http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jJg0pj9vxl4/VI4f_dbawsI/AAAAAAAAHxs/20MddoDmH-k/w1580-h889-no/1214141640.jpg)
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Ordered an m10 to 1/8 npt adapter, npt equivalent of the pressure switch in the head, and a plug for the port i am going to vacate in the tee in the filter flange from summit. Already have a spare tee. Moving the pressure sender to the head.
Between that and the suspension it's gonna be a busy weekend
.:Sent by pneumatic tubes
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.....
Further update: Found the PS reservoir below minimum, filled to max with dexron.
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You may want to check if dexron is the right fluid for PS. On my 92 Jetta it is a special fluid. Can't recall the exact spec.
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Yeah, there are several threads on the subject on the vortex. But the reservoir in my 84 clearly states ATF-1
.:Sent by pneumatic tubes
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And you're sure that's the correct reservoir? What does the Bentley say? I wish mine would take Dexron.
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The reservoir is slotted into a bracket on the frame rail in a way that looks awful stock to me. The bentley has a picture of a different style of reservoir that is mounted on the core support and says not to use atf, but then gives a list of NLA products, and the few i have been able to find information about online are automatic transmission fluids.
My diesel mk1 bentley often doesn't jive with my 84 jetta. For example there are several fuse/relay diagrams and none of them look like mine, which mostly resembles what you find online as a CE1 panel.
.:Sent by pneumatic tubes
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Vanagons use Dexron for the power steering.
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Keys replaced. Despite what the watercooledkeys guy says, it seems that a number stamped in the hook at the small end of a mk1 handle is not a lock code. He requires a photo of a key, so, i think he may be fibbing. Anyway, i paid bob's lock safe and key of west valley city to cut new generic keys from the door barrels, and they work in the ignition switch. They can cut my vintage steel blank so I'll be back to have that cut at some point.
.:Sent by pneumatic tubes
that is a code for the key, i lost the only key to my rabbit and took the door handle to the lock smith and they were able to make me new ones with that number, but if the tumblers have been changed then it means nothing, and if i was making them i'd want a picture as well, or the actual key to copy
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Rain all weekend, so instead of doing suspension i took the whole dash apart again.
Installed a nearly-OE looking 12v socket where the cig lighter used to be, because a modern socket actually holds in things other than the cig lighter element. The unit i used is so close to the exact same device that it's even using the original lamp holder.
Cracks in the frame around the socket and front ash tray have been discretely superglued.
Epoxied metal washers to the busted mounting holes in the lower corners of the dash bezel.
Cleaned the setting pushers for the digital clock in the cluster. I am actually pretty unsure why one of them got stuck so it'll probably happen again.
Replaced the red high beam indicator LED in the cluster with a diffuse blue one. Because diffuse blue T1-3/4 LEDs are something i have.
Found a light bulb that works to stick behind said clock. Yeah I should do LEDs. some day.
rigged a spare type 37 bulb to wire leads to stick in the heater control panel, wedged in with foam rubber. Works. May need to tape it up so it doesn't fall out while driving.
Opened up the defogger switch to determine why it doesn't illuminate, unsurprised to discover both light bulbs dead. A green T1-3/4 and a plain T1-1/2 or so. The smaller plain one i have spares for, soldered in. Yeah, LEDs. I know. When i get around to it i'll figure that stuff out. It now lights up the dot on the side, still no icon illumination.
Investigated why the blower switch works but not as labeled. Opened up and cleaned the contacts and re-greased with copious amounts of silicone, now getting good connectivity across all 4 contacts. Position 0 is damaged, evidence of arcing. Probably because it was doing high speed duty. Since this is supposed to be the off position, I'm ok with that. I popped the individual spade sockets out of the harness and installed them in the right order.
Considering ordering some type 2162 wire leaded bulbs from mouser, along with green 'lenses' for them. These are like a type 74 but with wire leads instead of a wedge base. So i can repair original switch illumination.
Come to think of it i need to figure out why my chinese copy fog light switch doesn't have icon illumination. I probably wired it wrong.
Wired up a very small 1A rated hermetically sealed DPDT relay to control an hour meter. The idea is that both the coil and the normally closed contacts on the relay are powered by the relay that provides power to the fuel shutoff solenoid in the injection pump but the relay coil will be grounded through the oil pressure switch on the head. This switch opens with very little oil pressure - often while still cranking the starter - and closes again maybe a minute after the engine is shut off. So realistically power will only be applied to the hour meter when the key is in the "on" position _and_ there is oil pressure in the head, which is pretty much just whenever the engine is actually turning.
To Do:
Suspension, obviously. I can assemble the front struts independent of removing the old ones from the car, so i might do that. Next good-weather day might be a ways out tho.
I suspect some hinkiness on the electrical side of the ignition switch. I may just buy a replacement switch and assure that it works properly with the existing barrel. The barrel does need some lube tho.
Need to work out a very sneaky immobilizer. I have ideas. I aint tellin.
I bought what i foolishly thought was a waterproof float charger and it turns out that it's not remotely waterproof. I may find a spot to wedge it under the console or dash and hard wire it to unswitched power, but i kinda don't want to run AC through the firewall. I should just bite the bullet and buy another waterproof Schumacher unit like the one in my truck, so i can just mount it under the hood. For now the float charger is sitting in the passenger footwell plugged into the newly installed 12v socket.
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Sometimes, I just can't make it all the way through the post.
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Yeah. Sorry for the Tolstoy
.:Sent by pneumatic tubes
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Huh, been a while since an update i guess.
I've been busy with a new job. Plus what tiny smattering of "Winter" We had here. And i broke a big hole in the end tank of the original intercooler on my mk5 GTI, so repairing that took up much of my available DIY time. And then i got sick. stupid cold bugs going around that just linger.
I've got a set of Bilstein Sport shocks (slightly used) and B&G progressive springs (even more slightly used) and the front sway bar from a late cabriolet to install.
Checked my timing some weeks ago and found it retarded as i had expected. about .95 when it should be past 1.0. And then i got snowed on while trying to set the timing. And then ran out of daylight.
Did some minor stuff here and there, like i pulled a cluster from a late cabby just to steal the perfect digital clock from it. Altered said digital clock for 24 hour time.
I now have some Motometer gauges available. I can convert the tach to diesel if you want, but it says "Unleaded Fuel Only" on it.
I can also send you a diffuse blue LED and an 2k resistor to give you a mk2-style blue light in the hi-beam position.
I acquired some awesome vintage jc whitney fog lights. with driving lights. never installed. 100w each bulb, glass lenses, chromed steel reflectors, ABS housing. And bought some lamin-x to protect them. Have i mentioned that the front bumper on my jetta has been drilled for both fogs that mount with a single large stud in the middle and fogs that have a mounting bracket on each end? True story.
So this afternoon i finally removed the fake vdo pressure sender from the filter flange, plugged that port (easier than replacing the tee with an elbow), removed the metric thread pressure switch from the head, installed a 10mm to 1/8 FPT adapter, a male to two female tee, and a real VDO pressure sender and a standard motor products pressure switch of the same spec as the metric switch. funny thing, it has a blue top too.
And then i set about adding a circuit for the new driving lights. Which was more or less nominal until i tried replacing the misc. chinese relays in my headlight relay block with the BMW relays i brought home from the yards, and discovered that those bavarians switched terminal 30 and terminal 86 on their 30A relays. Cheeky bastards. At least they still used the DIN terminal numbers, though. The terminals on the jaguar relays i have are labeled 1 through 4, and match the normal bosch relay in function.
ran out of light re-pinning the relay harness. Noted that one of my high beams isn't working. oh bother.
I also pulled the door pockets w/ 5.25" speaker pods off the '92 cabby at the yards. I have some alpine speakers to install, set of 4 even, with some sleek looking square grilles for the rear deck. Yeah, I never did cut in for 6x9 speakers. I am weak.
Maybe tomorrow I'll have my priorities straight and verify the timing i set after turning the engine over a couple times, then maybe take it for another drive.
Oh, and i bought an optima red top to replace the sketchy battery, still need to modify the hold-down clamp.