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General Information => General => Topic started by: bbob203 on November 26, 2013, 10:17:20 am
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going to have to rig up a glowplug system since I'm going to maine next week. asap looking for advice on what kind of button ought I use.
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I would recommend using a relay/solenoid in order to limit the current through the momentary switch. Use a momentary switch rated for the current needed for the relay/solenoid trigger.
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Yeah, one of those kinds of buttons that when you push on it the electricity flows but take your finger off and it stops. Pushing button turns on relay, relay sends big current draw to Glow plugs, car starts, everyone happy.
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yea I'm gonna get a cheapo starter solenoid for now activate it with the button and figure the rest out later.
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Don't forget you need a fuse between Glows and that relay. Might just use the one on the firewall. Disconnect OEM wire and replace with Relay feed.
Room for Relay near fender behind battery and near Transmission. Grab a ground from there as well.
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this car was a petrol mobile before. I will fuse the connection from battery to solenoid and solenoid to glowplugs. 80amp fuse from battery to solenoid and 60 amp from solenoid to glowplugs. A benz guy diesel guy I know advised marine supply stores sell nice button luckily we have a few since I'm on the ohio river.
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Something like this works:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-EACH-50-AMP-RELAY-HARNESS-SPDT-12V-BOSCH-STYLE-NEW-/380745471083?pt=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item58a632d46b&vxp=mtr
wired to the battery and using the standard glow plug wire as the trigger if you wanted to keep the stock relay setup (if equipped with post ignition secondary glow relay for instance), then into the Vince Walden style fused and separate glowplug wires. Works pretty well.
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this car was a petrol mobile before.
standard glow plug wire as the trigger if you wanted to keep the stock relay setup
A start solenoid needs low amperage to operate (large duty relay is all), so it should be fine to just have a hot wire to a capable switch on the dash then to the solenoid.
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A start solenoid needs low amperage to operate (large duty relay is all), so it should be fine to just have a hot wire to a capable switch on the dash then to the solenoid.
Thats true, IIRC the standard glow plug wire only delivers the amperage that the relay signal is drawing if using the stock relay setup, not the the amperage it could deliver if connected directly to the glowplugs.
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Scored some good stuff at napa today 44 bucks!
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b75/bendover817/3ca81eb93526f2686dd35d275a8dc37f_zps14846de2.jpg)
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b75/bendover817/9a1e5345b7784bdce18474091a9acc85_zpscf3d43fc.jpg)
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b75/bendover817/5cdfbfb419629ee90cbfcf2a4cc57578_zps8c33a41c.jpg)
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Now just have to figure out how to activate the light when I push the button. It looks for ground to come on.
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Why do you need the light on when you are pushing the button??? That seems like an unnecessary step.
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I don't need it but its one of those touches that a person buying the car might like and see attention to detail.
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Ahh yes, attention to detail. Wire in a separate light right above that push button?
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Ahh yes, attention to detail. Wire in a separate light right above that push button?
Yes i could but I want the cluster one to work ;D
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find the wire that goes to LED from the GP relay, and use it as your switch ground.
(You will need a three terminal switch for that)
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Im using the starter solenoid as my relay. Push button activates solenoid and glow plugs glow. The button i have is only a two terminal.
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I used the stock wiring to activate the relay to switch the juice to the glow plugs. Light on dash works just fine. Listen to the relay clunk off as the light goes out.
Or nearly so.
Seems like a minor delay is present.
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I would do that but the car was a petrol engine before so no glowplug wiring that why im doing it with a button.
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As far as i can tell i need to plug a wire into the front of the fuse box where the glow plug L terminal would be plugged into. Since this isnt a diesel fuse block will that have the ability to receive a wire into it?
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Now just have to figure out how to activate the light when I push the button. It looks for ground to come on.
Are you talking about the yellow dash/cluster light?
Doesn't sound like the momentary switch has a light.
Pretty easy to put another LED in the space next to the glow plug light, if you plan to use a stock relay/timer later.
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Yes trying to make the stock glowplug indicator led come on when i hit the button. Its trivial but i want to figure it out.
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gotta ground lead to led... so he needs o invert its power on to completing a ground...
so 1 ide of push button to ground...
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other side goes to led feed.. and to terminal 85 of a fog light relay under hood..
----------fog light relay......------ ued fo ra inverter..
30 and 86 power from batt
85 your push button
87 to starter siloinoid.. for glow plugs..
then wire in you rglow plugs..
this design allows you to use a nice small rat shack push button... and makes the light in dash cluster work too.. pluse feeding a ground thru firewall imo better then a power feed..
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Is this a mk2 car? if it is this is easy.If you've got the car the engine came out of, take the glow plug relay out of it and plug it in to the gas car. Same fuze panel. Now take the wire that came off the back of the panel in the diesel car and install it in the former gas car. Hook it up and you are done. 20 minutes and you are done, no hacking. You won't have a light on the where it belongs, but if you really want one you can add it. Just wait 10 seconds or so after you turn the key on and the car will start. there's a default circuit that will make this work without the temp sensor that they use, been running mine this way for 2 1/2 years.
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b3 passat with tdi-m... so no tdi glow system as its wired in to the comp on a tdi-e...
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Tested out my plug into l terminal on fuse box in my mk2 and it worked. plugged in a wire and grounded it and glow light came on. Did not work on the passat so i pulled the wire out of the pigtail grounded it and it didnt work so im guessing the led is burned out... ???
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led do not burn out,,, id assume wire not in cluster harness..
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OR you could add the LED and cut the trace that feeds power to it. Ground that side of the LED and run the other side to the the GPs. When the GPs get juice the GP light on the dash glows.
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Got it all figured out. Was grounding the wrong wire. When we made the harness for my cluster we use a different colour than was stock and we didnt pluf the glowplug wire into the connector for the very reason of when i set up my glowplugs. Found that wire plugged it into the connector ground #9 or "L" terminal on the fuse box bam glowplug light comes on. I found a male 2 pin connector and pulled on of the spaded out of it and it fits perfectly into the #9 terminal. http://s17.photobucket.com/user/bendover817/media/2013-11-29083841_zps38afad32.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
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so i was right... :P did not think it went into the fuse box...
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Everything works as planned. Light in the cluster works when I push the button w/ the key on. Probably my cleanest custom wiring job I've ever done on one of my cars.
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Do you think you could show a diagram of what you did here? There seems to be tons of questions on this so it might be good info.
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led do not burn out,,, id assume wire not in cluster harness..
Sure they do. Just not when used correctly.
. :Sent by pneumatic tubes
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I put one into a dummy switch on the gli I converted. Came out great I thought. ;D
(http://imageshack.us/a/img714/2200/img8049.jpg)
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LEDs aren't known for burning out but you can see burnt-out LEDs in the newer stop/go lights.
If you put 12 volts to one without a current limiting resister, it won't burn out.
It will EXPLODE!
Careful with LEDs and 12volts,.. even 3 volts will blow up a red LED.
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Careful with LEDs and 12volts,.. even 3 volts will blow up a red LED.
Not if it's AlInGaP red.
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Is that a higher voltage red? Most operate around 1.5 volts I think.
Whereas the blue/white/green ones are 3.5 volts usually.
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Is that a higher voltage red? Most operate around 1.5 volts I think.
Whereas the blue/white/green ones are 3.5 volts usually.
2.0-2.5v, so they won't burn out very fast on 3v.
as an electronerd i have a whole bunch of different LEDs here. Most are in the 1.something to 2.something range, but yeah i have some red LEDs that will emit some yellow and then pretty much melt if i pinch their leads around a cr2032 battery. And others that don't. There are a bunch of different chemistries out there.