VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
General Information => General => Topic started by: CRSMP5 on November 01, 2013, 12:47:40 pm
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http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6150365-Cold-weather-starting-running
well has nothing to do with cold start system.. it started.... that 1st...
things you need to know at this point...
cis, cis-e, or motronic fuel system...
ill guess cis lamba/basic... imo best power for stock fuel when not running knocksensor ignition.. stock in a bunny...
your issue... warm up regulator.... check system vs control fuel pressure... but the issue is..................... where is it mounted... the 2.0 bottom end lacks a mounting point.. if it does not warm up on the block.. it causes the issue... hell movong it to different place causes it to warm up slower... i mounted mine to the valvecover... another car i mounted it to the oil pan..
bet his zip tied off to the side...
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I posted your message.
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I bet you are right.
What is an "Audi 2.0 bubble block?"
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3A ?
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9a block.. some goofy rod/pistom combo, wrist pins supposedly odd size, with a goofy head the injector seats are in the intake manifold vs head.. run on cis motronic... no idea what it is.... always referanced as bubble block..
in 93 it got a aba block, digafaunt injection on the counter flow tall block like i have in my 84 coupe...
ive done both on cis and no knock sensors and the tall block has much more seat of pants torque... but not as rev snappy as the shorty..
why i wonder how a 9a set up idi will run.. :D that ideas been in my head 20 years......
just checked the thread... god the person who replied after must be dumb... im still waiting teop to ask well how do i tell wat fuel system or igition do i have.. :P he has somethin cobled.. god knows what other then engine... :D the stuff that makes it go...
but i can say with out a doubt.. moving it from stock location to valve cover made it take a good 1.5 to 2 min longer till pressures were right... on nice cold days... damb near acta like a bad warm up regulator... on mine it is euro gti cis.. so no comp at all of any kind.. if you added in a 02 sensor its worse... it kicks on before its warm nough an run real crappy... issue the shorty one i did had... just et it sit warm up 5 min no issues.. :P
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;D cis lamba... wuf fell off... was zip tied up... has it in intake manifold now... :P
tell him yes it warms up too slowly.. wonder where they had it...
tell him to find a nice flat place to mount it.. i would get a 77-88 cis mounting plate off the front of the block.. its aluminum.. so he can fab up a nice mount for it.. he wants to keep it away from exhaust.. id go with aluminum valve cover for flat spot.. or front of oil pan has room.. but the lines to it will have to be fabbed for that..
he should also check the control vs system pressure... if the wur came loose and got stuck in the shifter.. it may be set wrong now... its like hammer mod on idi diesel pump.. will take cis expert to fix... invite him here if he that stuck.. ill need to talk 1 on 1 with him..
for you other diesel people scratchin head... yea i think i nailed it with such little info.. but i had to figure that crap out before there was interwebz.. and i know cis perty good..
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Yup... The WUR is the first thing I would grab at the boneyard when I had gassers. Fussy little buggers.
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3A ?
bubble block is a 3a yeah, same deck height but a 2.0, i think its called a bubble block because it was the first block to have the extra bumps on the back side like an aba, alh or any other later block. the gay bubbles prevent the use of an 010 automatic too cause the starter won't fit.
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Yeah, but, life with an 010 auto ain't all THAT glorious! I always longed for another gear....or two more.
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010 is CRAP< I hate it behind the RV 1.8L it sucks that 110hp down to like 70hp
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;D 110hp 1.8 digicrap?? not.. LOL... 90hp...
if it were gli.. it would be 102hp with cis-e and knock sensor... make it cis lamba/basic and goto no knock sensor its like 127hp.. euro gti 1.8 8v spec from 83- thru 16v...
yea a 1.6na pulls hills better then that crap you have... hate having to pull my fav hill every time i pick that pos up for a oil change... but for a stand by car.. it starts every time they need it..
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1990 1.8 rv code is 110 iirc.
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100 or 105. I run an RV refurbished block with mechanical head and it is amazing how well it grunts and winds that old two-door Golf body around. Often run 40% booze in it. Lambda CIS. Some pinging problems. Keeps my life fun when too cold for biking.
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I think behind the AWY close ratio with an eco AVX 4.25 fd... omg itd be king
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ALSO! I may have the PF, frig i can't remember. haha
ID code- HT, RV
1.8-litre, 77 kilowatts (105 PS; 103 hp) — 1984–1991 Volkswagen Golf, Volkswagen Jetta (RV: 1987–1992 Digifant II)
ID code- RD, PF
1.8-litre, 79 kilowatts (107 PS; 106 hp) — 1985–1991 Volkswagen Golf, Volkswagen Jetta, (PF: 1987–1992 Digifant II)
Were the 90hp ones even digi? or were they the CIS..?
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In USA, I think all RV's digi. I mixed and matched and it turned out well. Run an AUG with 0.75 fifth installed.
Actually pointlessly close ratio with too much time shifting, or occasionally skipping from 1st to 3rd or from 2nd to 4th. My E85 and standard 10% ethanol blend is never the same twice. After over 3 years of this running of booze, no noticeable valve damage as everyone likes to think. Recently did compression test with some variance from 180 lbs. Sure runs rip-snort.
The car is really rusty. Actually thinking of converting one of the diesels into these components......oh oh....THAT is going to get the natives here restless!
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I do not mind a good gasoline engine build ;) SO long as it is Volkswagen!