VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: vako on October 13, 2013, 01:09:38 am
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long story short, recently i had some problems with my engine that has been in my car already for 25 000 kilometers. engine was bought used and was internals were not inspected in the begining :D
after 3 years of service 1 week ago car started twitching badly at low speeds/rpms, after few days it started overheating with no reason :D just pressing the accelerator pedal while driving was enough temp gauge to rise. after inspection i found quite big amount of exhaust gasses were getting in the cooling system. cylinder head and the gaskets were the main suspects for the problem :D yesterday i pulled the head off the engine and found that there was old style non metallic head gasket installed, and exhaust gasses were getting in the cooling system from the edge of the firs cylinder. after visual inspection no sighns of damage were found on the cylinder heads. just small cracks between the valves (but the crack are very tiny and the are up to vw specs, which states that it should not be bigger than 0.5 milimeters). i will have my head pressure checked anyway and check if the surface is flat up to the specs. if it isn't, i will have it rgounded a bit (i know that it isn't recomended by the manufacturer but from this forum i know that it often done to used heads prion to installing mettalic head gasket).
i will also have my crank checked and probably will change main and rod bearings (with oversized ones). i will also fit tdy style crank spocket and modify flywheel end of the crank to fit apropriate bearing for suzuki vitara transmission input shaft (26X20 or 22X10 bearing).
yesterday i found a little problem in my engine block. there is some scoring on n2 cylinder wall :((( but i think that honing and new standard size rings will work just fine. because just pistonc cost much more than whole my rebuild and i do not need more than 100 000 km-s from this engine :D
pics coming soon
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these are my previous topics :)))
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=26361.0
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=27377.0
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=27328.0
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i had my cylinder head pressure checked and resurfaced today ;D it seems to be all right, but it was slightly wrapped (after overheating numerous times in my car :D) and they had to take off 0.18 mm-s to make it perfectly flat.
i have to change valve seals and port the head. after that head will be ready for further use :))) i will post pics tomorrow. tomorrow i will also disasamble lower end and see what needs to be changed and machined there
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some useful threads for me
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=26175.0
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=29810.0
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I usually find the exhaust guides are pretty worn, and they are what take the heat out of the valve....
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i'll check valve guide wear and change them if necessary ;D valve seals will be changed anyway.
my pressure tested and flat grounded (correct me if i've use the wrong term for that procedure) head :))
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shafts itself isn't worn, but front bearing is worn a bit and it has some play. so both, back and front bearings, will be changed before engine assembly.
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isn't cam going to be out of alignment? heads no good.
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according to manual maximum non-flattness of the head when it does not need any resurfacing is 0.1 millimeters and it seems not to hurt camshaft. it worked like this (deformed from years of service for more than 3 years and 25 000 kilometers) and camshaft (and camshaft bearing in the head) is still as good as new ;D
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Take a very close look at the precups and make sure there aren't any tiny cracks forming at the edge of the opening. If there are, then replace the inserts.
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there are veeery small and short cracks at the edge of precup hole itself. as long as there is almost no way of getting new them easily and cheap in georgia i will leave them alone. they were never taken out and sit very tight in their places, so IMHO there is almost no chance of them falling out ???
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Those tiny cracks can grow very quickly and once split the precup will fall into the cylinder and cause a lot of pain. The AAZ precups are available new through World Impex (Napa).
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according to manual maximum non-flattness of the head when it does not need any resurfacing is 0.1 millimeters and it seems not to hurt camshaft. it worked like this (deformed from years of service for more than 3 years and 25 000 kilometers) and camshaft (and camshaft bearing in the head) is still as good as new ;D
I don't mean to be arrogant (im not), but listen to your self; you say 0.1mm is max for resurfacing, you say (unless im wrong or you didn't give correct info) you took 0.18mm off cyl head to make flat/straight, that sounds to me like a whole different ball game??, in any case you've put a lot of money and work into cyl head already,, hope you don't pay for it more,,,
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according to manual maximum non-flattness of the head when it does not need any resurfacing is 0.1 millimeters and it seems not to hurt camshaft. it worked like this (deformed from years of service for more than 3 years and 25 000 kilometers) and camshaft (and camshaft bearing in the head) is still as good as new ;D
I don't mean to be arrogant (im not), but listen to your self; you say 0.1mm is max for resurfacing, you say (unless im wrong or you didn't give correct info) you took 0.18mm off cyl head to make flat/straight, that sounds to me like a whole different ball game??, in any case you've put a lot of money and work into cyl head already,, hope you don't pay for it more,,,
generally if the head is bent only on 0.1 mm-s it's ok to use it again, and it does'nt need any resurfacing. if the deformation is beyond that figure you should scrap the head (on diesel engines), but on petrol engines you can and have to resurface the block if you have deformation 0.06mm-s or more (it seems that cam journals do not deform so hard, because they are way far from head gasket surface), still i do not know why the do not recomend resurfacing on diesels at all (enev at 0.4 mm deformation for example ??? ) :D in the machine shop when i told about the reccomendations in instruction manual they said that they have resurfaced tons of vw diesel heads and did not have any issues so far, also they told me that even if the head was within 0.1mm deformation specs leaving it that way would probably cause head gasket sealing problems and cost me another set of head bolts and head gasket :D
today i have disassambled lower end, rod bearings were original with VW and audi emblems on them and probably std size, and all the crank surfaces were as good as new :o. main bearing were 0.25mm undersized (according to emblem they were king bearings) and crank surfaces were little bit scored, but still were in good condition. so i will have my crankd machined for 0.25 oversizedrod and 0/50 oversized main bearing. i will be using kolbenshmidt bearings for the crank 8) and clevlite for intermediate shaft. if everything goes according to my plans i will have crank machined on monday or tuesday + tdi style spocket fitted.
pistons all seem to be originals (i will remove N1 piston tomorrow :D i have not seen it removed yet), without excessive scoring or wear, so i will reuse them. they have some play in cylinder bores but that will not be a big issue if i use new ring (i will check ring gaps tomorrow and deciide to buy new ones or not) + i will hone cylinders
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. . . but on petrol engines you can and have to resurface the block if you have deformation 0.06mm-s or more (it seems that cam journals do not deform so hard, because they are way far from head gasket surface), still i do not know why the do not recomend resurfacing on diesels at all (enev at 0.4 mm deformation for example ??? )
I've read of guys machining IDI heads with success. Possibly the reason to not do so is the super hard pre-chambers (which have a tendency to fall out) might loose their fit during the process? A surface grinder would definitely be easier on them as opposed to a fly-cutter on a mill.
As for the cam journals, if the head is warped, they are as well - makes no difference how far they are from the had surface as it's one chunk of aluminum. In other words, it doesn't 'grow" at the ends or "shrink" in the middle - it simply turns into a banana ;).
If you shaved the head, make sure you check your highest piston against the deck height ("piston protrusion") before you order the gasket There's a good section in the FAQ on this.
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. . . but on petrol engines you can and have to resurface the block if you have deformation 0.06mm-s or more (it seems that cam journals do not deform so hard, because they are way far from head gasket surface), still i do not know why the do not recomend resurfacing on diesels at all (enev at 0.4 mm deformation for example ??? )
I've read of guys machining IDI heads with success. Possibly the reason to not do so is the super hard pre-chambers (which have a tendency to fall out) might loose their fit during the process? A surface grinder would definitely be easier on them as opposed to a fly-cutter on a mill.
As for the cam journals, if the head is warped, they are as well - makes no difference how far they are from the had surface as it's one chunk of aluminum. In other words, it doesn't 'grow" at the ends or "shrink" in the middle - it simply turns into a banana ;).
If you shaved the head, make sure you check your highest piston against the deck height ("piston protrusion") before you order the gasket There's a good section in the FAQ on this.
thank you for you reply (y)
hea gasket and bearings are the things i have not to order from abroad :D after resurfacing (only for removing old gasket parts) i will measure piston protrustion and buy cyl head gasket accordingly 8) i think machine shop will not work on the weekend so i have to wait for monday :(((
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i'm interested if TDI timing belt spockets vary from year to year? what year/model spocket should i look for (are thore tdi style psocket used in gasoline engines?). i'm planning on buying one tomorrow
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You need to get one for an AHU or 1Z. The ALH sprocket is different.
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thanks ;) already bought the spocket for 13$ today, removed from used engine but in very good condition.
i have another very important question to you guys.
today i took my engine to the engine shop and the mechanic told me that the block is worn too much. it has very noticialble edge on the top of the area where cylinder rings move. on the first cylinder it cylinder walls were so worn that i am still unable to take out the piston + i have broken 1 ring on 2-nd piston while measuring the ring gap :( my crank is also machined to .25 mm on the main bearings. new pistons cost more than 200$ + honing, boring and resurfacing the block 60-70$, new bearings + crank machining will cost another 70-90$.
for 90$ i am able to buy complete short block for later AAZ (that came with metalic head gasket , maybe is 94 or newer). it doesent have noticiable scoring on cylinder walls, pistons have much less lash in bores and it does'nt have very noticealbe edge on the top of the cylinder bore. i have not checked the crankt but seller says that it is most likely not machined, and must be in STD specs. the onlu problem is the cause why they disassambled the engine, timing belt had snapped and pistons met the valves.... seller showed me the head and 3 valves were bent there ;D
will this kind of failure harm the short block? should i stay away from that engine or buy it (after checking the crank and internals for shure)? :D
if i buy that engine i will probably have to hone it and install old pistons and rings. because even on my old engine most rings were within pecs... ???
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If some of the valves have hit the pistons, it's possible that some other damage has occured - - like bent
connecting rods. Measure the piston protrusion very carefully to see if it's the same between all cylinders
when they are at TDC.
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yes i will check piston protrusion carefully before purchasing . and i will check cylinder bores from top to bottom :D
i'll be the happiest man if that engine has good crank and bearings, so that i will not have to change or machine them :D
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and now the news :D
today i bought AAZ short block for 90$ :D cylinder walls still had honing marks on them and crank was in perfect condition for AAz :D i have never seen siming spocket in such an good condition. but when i started the teardown, i found out that mainc bearings were changed.... and there was 0.25mm oversized bearing isntalled. n4 main bearing had bearing with oil passage on both sides (it is a good desicion for vw engines as i know. but bad things appeared when i removed the pistons... :| n1 & 4 pistons were in perfect condition, all the rings moving and no scoring at all, but 3 and 2 pistons had some scoring marks on the sides where pistons pin goes in ??? scoring marks were on cylinders too. also pistons mentioned above both had first compression ring stuck, on the sides where the scoring was present.
i knew that easiest & cheapest way of finding oversized pistons was to find the used ones with good rings... ::) i measured the new pistons, and yes, they were oversized :o 80mm, every piston except for the third one has rings with perfect gaps.... on third psiton second compression ring has some signs of scoring from cylinder wall, but i can get those rings for dirt cheap ;)
sooo the decision was made to overbore my old block for the "new pistons" and buy 1 set or new rings for the third cylinder (i'me very tight on budget :D)
pics coming soon
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first three pics are of the piston that is scored the most, scored second ring is also seen.
4-5 pics ar of the best pistons , no scoring or wear marks.
last two pics are from the piston damaged less, that has good rings. what do you think? were they worth 90$ , i recieved engine block rods and crank as a bonus
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another and less expensive option is to deep hone my new block and put these pistons in their own places :D
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this is N3 cylinder bore.
my goal is 30-40 thousand kilometers not more. if i will not have starting issues because of these little scratches on the wall then using this block will be the best 9and the cheapest) option for me :|
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Your piston scoring looks very much like mine did. My issue was too much heat on a long steep grade (melts the piston which smears itself on the barrel walls like peanut butter). I was watching water temps as I had no EGT gauge - a very bad decision :(
Hopefully you already have one, but an EGT sensor and gauge are a must - even on a tight budget.
Good move on the re-bore choice
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It would be better if you over-bored your original block and reused the second engine's pistons; I think deep honing con't get that all out, and even if it did I think you might be at your limit of ring end gap. If the damage on the piston(s) is not too much then see if some light-grit wet sandpaper helps at least deburr the scratch marks. If after that they don't move around in the bores excessively, I wouldn't feel too bad about reusing them. Check them very thoroughly for cracks, though, after giving them an equally thorough cleaning! Don't forget about measuring the engine connecting rods, have you checked that they are straight after the valves have come into contact with the pistons? Also is this just going to be a mild power build?
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Also the ring groove has to still be square, if the ledge is tapered, new rings may not help much.
In California, the parts motor wold almost certainly have been $400, even with the damage disclosed.
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yeees ;D in georgia vw engines are dirt cheap :D i will check and file down ring groves to specified size it it will be needen on damagebd pistons. today i left my old block and new pistons to the machine shop. they will be custom fitted to each bore. mechanic said that with new rings they will work almost as much as new ones and little bit of piston scoring will not affect compression.
so now i'm looking for cheap rings :D because my budgs is almost gone after buying new engine and reboring it ::)
will these rings work for non performance build, for maxuimum 100 000 kilometers?
http://www.hansdieselparts.com/1ZDiesel50Rings.htm
i'm also buying these head bolts
http://www.hansdieselparts.com/068103384AHeadBolts.htm
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I wouldn't touch his stuff. I prefer the Goetze brand for rings and anyone else's head bolts are probably better than that. If you are only looking for 40,000 miles I hear the Grant rings are pretty good and much cheaper than the Goetze
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could you give me any links for rings and head bolts?
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Grant-Diesel-Piston-Ring-Set-80-0mm-/360759251022?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AVolkswagen&hash=item53feed504e&vxp=mtr
are these any good?
what about payen and beck& arnley bolts from rockauto? also they seem to have goetze rings for only 8.5$ :|
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Rock Auto is great, they sell real parts and tell you who makes them.
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very good, i will order the parts tomorrow after i get my rebored block from the shop.
i wonder why vw engineers decidet to use 21!!! millimeter hole in the crank. i have 10 mm input shaft and 10x21 bearing does not even exist :D previosly i had 10x19 bearing installed tehre with steel sleeve. this time i think i will enlarge the hole to 22 milimeters
with a reamer (a friend of my installed 2.0 petrol engine in his vitara and he has the reamer of the right size...)
the worst thing is that i will have to wait for my bolts and rings for at least 2 weeks :((
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what do you think about installing 1y (1.9 diesel)/petrol rod bearings on my engine? those are ~0.5 milimeters narrower than my bearings and mahle/king bearings cost 13/15$. also they are avalable in every size ???
i hope that i will find main bearings easily , because they are same on gas/diesel engines.
tomorrow i will take my block from machine shop. mechanic said that pistons are already fitted to the block ;D
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I don't know what would happen. 1/4 mm on each side is nothing really but they obviously did it for a reason. If you got the TDI in your country it should have the mains you seek.
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yes there seems to be some reason for wide bearings :D i'l continue searching :D
i have double checked and gas/diesel main bearings are the same for 1.9-1.8-2.0 engines. the only difference is N4 lower bearing. gas engine bearings come with grooved lower half. in diesel engines all lower bearings are without grooves and holes
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should i stay away from his bearings too? :D
http://www.hansdieselparts.com/19Under5CrankBearings.htm
according to part numbers they are manufactured by vw... :S
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I would NOT trust parts from that supplier
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Glyco makes the #4 grooved all the way around. The normal diesel one us 1/2 grooved so I don't think that is it? Usually what you want to stay away from was the integrated thrust washer the gassers had
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yes i heard that integrated thrust bearing are no good :(
after measurements i found that "new" crank seems to have been machined previously. -0.5mm on rod journals and -0.25 on the mains. seems like i have missed 0.5mm mark on rod bearings when i has checking them... now it seems to be in good shape and all the journals are in perfect shape (and within the specs) but i think i will still use my crank that does not have machiend rod journals (it must have been machined for some reason.. rod knock or smth like that :D)
my rebuild costs so far:
head pressure testing and resurfacing - 36$
m12 head bolt socket bit - 10$
"new" short block for pistons - 90$
tdi style spocket - 14$
machining my old block for "new" pistons - 30$
to do list:
1) piston rings and head bolts from rockauto - 60$ (witout shipping to georgia)
2) machining crank to accept tdi spocket -?
3) machining the crank to accept 26 od input shaft bearing - ?
4) checking the crank, if it is worn more than 0.04-0.05 millimeters - if it is out of specs than + 30$ for machining it.
5) new bearings -
6) new head gasket (victor reinz or elring) - 26$
7) crank front, camshaft and intermediate shaft seals - 7-8$ approx.
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If you play around in the rockauto shipping calculator (warehouse A,b,C) enough, sometimes you can find parts that ship from europe.
For me thats a 'what why does it take 3 weeks', but I had to get new inner fender liners for my friends MKIV, and euro liners were like $4 as opposed to $75 from the US, so even after $30 for shippng we were well ahead.
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tofday i bought 0.25 rod and 0.50mm main bearings for my crank, just for 29$, on monday i will take my crank to machine shop and that will be another 30$ :D
my rebuild costs so far:
1) head pressure testing and resurfacing - 36$
2) m12 head bolt socket bit - 10$
3) "new" short block for pistons - 90$
4) tdi style spocket - 14$
5) machining my old block for "new" pistons - 30$
6) rod bearings (0.25 mm) & main bearings (0.5mm) - 29$
sum - 209$
to do list:
1) piston rings and head bolts from rockauto - 60$ (witout shipping to georgia)
2) machining crank to accept tdi spocket -12$
3) machining the crank to accept 26 od input shaft bearing - 12$
4) machining the crank - 30$
5) new head gasket (victor reinz or elring) - 26$
6) crank front, camshaft and intermediate shaft seals - 7-8$ approx.
here are the pistons and the rods after first stage cleaning :D
(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/75410_DSC8343_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=75410_DSC8343_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/78692_DSC8345_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=78692_DSC8345_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/58703_DSC8348_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=58703_DSC8348_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/69761_DSC8350_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=69761_DSC8350_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/12912_DSC8353_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=12912_DSC8353_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/3448_DSC8354_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=3448_DSC8354_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/77790_DSC8355_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=77790_DSC8355_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/2842_DSC8356_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=2842_DSC8356_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/71362_DSC8360_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=71362_DSC8360_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/45729_DSC8361_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=45729_DSC8361_1600x1200_.jpg)
(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/31126_DSC8366_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=31126_DSC8366_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/88795_DSC8367_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=88795_DSC8367_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/5544_DSC8368_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=5544_DSC8368_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/65637_DSC8369_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=65637_DSC8369_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/92432_DSC8370_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=92432_DSC8370_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/44613_DSC8371_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=44613_DSC8371_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/13335_DSC8376_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=13335_DSC8376_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/82561_DSC8381_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=82561_DSC8381_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/92027_DSC8382_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=92027_DSC8382_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/38304_DSC8383_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=38304_DSC8383_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/48087_DSC8384_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=48087_DSC8384_1600x1200_.jpg)
every cylinder is individually sized for each piston. npr bearing photos coming soon :)))
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I can almost hear it clack!
Keep at it.
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i generally love cars and motorsports. (i'm a layer by profession :D) but the process of assembling the engine is my favorite part :o starting it up after the rebuild brings you the feeling that cant'n be compared to anything other related with cars :D
still i have to wait for at least 2 weeks for my head bolts and piston rings to arrive from the uk :(
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i forgot to answer turbogaser about pisron ring grooves (that were deformed previously), after overheating the outer edges of the groove just moved a bit closer to each other. only few moves of needle file were enough for setting the right width of the groove ( 1.8 milimeters if i'm not mistaken). also i wet sanded the scorings very lightly (without changing overal geometry)
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my engine block surface was flat so it was not resurfaced. how should i remove old gasket residue ? should i use sandpaper?
these are mu bearings ;D
main bearings are from petrol engine (with 6 grooved bearings and 4 plain bearings), diesels have 5-5 grooved -ungrooved bearings. as far as i know it wont cause any issues in 70-100k kilometers. my new engine had that configuration and lower grooved bearing on 4th journal looked very well :D
(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/44605_DSC8436_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=44605_DSC8436_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/93711_DSC8437_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=93711_DSC8437_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/61357_DSC8438_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=61357_DSC8438_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/33076_DSC8439_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=33076_DSC8439_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/43537_DSC8440_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=43537_DSC8440_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/27896_DSC8441_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=27896_DSC8441_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/4737_DSC8443_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=4737_DSC8443_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/30591_DSC8444_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=30591_DSC8444_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/2755_DSC8446_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=2755_DSC8446_1600x1200_.jpg)
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There are many posts (here) on this subject with some good info.
What worked well for me was a large mill-bastard file. Holding it flat against the surface and moving it in a circular motion with your finger tips. Squirting a bit of W-D40, paint thinner or diesel fuel on during the process. Obviously that was after removing stuff with a putty knife. Use some good de-greaser like acetone or brake cleaner when your done and just before you spray it with hylomar (or your sealer of choice). Don't even touch the surface with you fingers once it's clean.
BTW, some guys use no sealers between the surfaces at all. In my opinion, that is OK for brand new surfaces but once used, you need all the help you can get. - again, just my opinion.
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there are some news :D according to block and piston protrusion.
today i assambled the block with old bearings and installed the crank, to check if new con rods all were of the same size and also measure piston protrusion. measurements showed that pistons all pistons only protrude from 0.48mm to 0.53-54 mm-s :| then i installed old rods on new pistons and protrusion went up to 0.80-0.85mm-s. with old piston and old rod protrusion was 1mm.
can i run 1 notch head gasket with that figures?
I also plan on resurfacing the block. i don't want to have head gasket leaking problems again (new bolts an gasket cost more than 50$ :|), so experiments are not for me by now. and it will cost 18$
block resurfacing will also increase protrusion by 0.1 milimeters (i hope)
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there are some litle scratches around cylinders (seen well on the pics)also the place from where the aold gasket leaked does not look perfectly flat. resufracing will solve all the problems i think... (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/91462_DSC8449_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=91462_DSC8449_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/38436_DSC8451_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=38436_DSC8451_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/9076_DSC8453_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=9076_DSC8453_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/78873_DSC8455_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=78873_DSC8455_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/32251_DSC8457_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=32251_DSC8457_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/15996_DSC8459_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=15996_DSC8459_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/52097_DSC8469_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=52097_DSC8469_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/43521_DSC8470_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=43521_DSC8470_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/94438_DSC8473_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=94438_DSC8473_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/22464_DSC8476_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=22464_DSC8476_1600x1200_.jpg)
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could piston to valve contact shorten ALL conrods by 0,2 millimetrs? :D
i have measured now and all new pistons are lower than old sdt size pistons (distance from piston pin hole to piston top) . most likely to compensate for block deck resurfacing during engine rebuild :)))
also i have a question about main bearing cap bolt torque. i have 2 kind of bolts, bolts with thread on all length from new egnine and bolts from old engine with thread only on the half of the bolt. shoul both types of bolts be tightened 65 nm + 90 degrees? or 90 degreesecondary retoque only refers to fully threaded bolts? if you have bently manual could you please help me and give an info about that ::) i have hyens manual and dont like it very much. there is not written should main bolts be tightened dry or lubricated :|
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Fully threaded shank bolt (non-reusable) tighten to 65 Nm (48 ft-lb) plus 1/4 turn
Partially threaded shank bolt tighten to 65 Nm (48 ft-lb)
Do not mix bolt types.
Haynes manual is not very well described in engine and transmission work; get the Mk3 Bentley manual. You'll thank yourself later.
http://www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-Jetta-Golf-GTI-Platform/dp/0837616603/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382844337&sr=8-1&keywords=bentley+manual+mk3+vw
P.S: Maximum allowable height on AAZ engine pistons is 1.02 mm; 0.48mm to 0.54 mms is within both piston protrusion deviance and 1-notch head gasket thickness tolerances.
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CrazyAndy
thanks for the info about bolt torques. in hayens it was given very strangely...
for aaz 65 + 90 degrees
for abd, abu engines
with full threaded bolt 65 +90deg,
for partialy threaded bolts 65nm...
but there was not written if those figures for aaz were for fully or partially threaded bolts ???
are those bolts installed dry or lubed ?
you mean that 0.48-0.54 piston protrusion is normal for AAz, yes? that's very good :D hayens manual gave the figures for protrusion above 0.65mm :D thats why i was interested if smaller protrusion is acceptable. anyway after block resurfacing i think that protrusion will increase at least by 0.1-0.15 milimeters
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today i brought my engine parts back from machine shop. block was resurfaced, 0.35 mm was taken off the block. as the mechanic said. (i hope that now i will be within 2-3 notch gasket range). also the crank was machined and polished, ball bearing fitted to the back side of the crank and spocket side resurfaced. all this for 30(crank)+18(block resurfacing)+12(fitting ball bearing to the crank) dolars :))) after that i wen to another shop to machine crank nose for tdi style spocket . 2 milimeters were taken off the crank nose and tdi spocket fitted fust fine. (for 7 dollars).
when i came home i found that spocket had 1 or 2 degrees of play when fitted on the crank... after fitting 4 foil layers on the tdi spocket tooth the play dissapaired... taht meant taht the surface ws machined just 0.05 milimeters more than it was needed. after 3 or 4 light taps (with a tiny hummer) on the spocket tooth (seen on the pic) the pulley deformed and now it fits perfectly on the crank ;D
(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/45336_DSC8478_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=45336_DSC8478_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/79361_DSC8480_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=79361_DSC8480_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/81545_DSC8481_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=81545_DSC8481_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/57069_DSC8489_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=57069_DSC8489_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/81975_DSC8490_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=81975_DSC8490_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/78801_DSC8494_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=78801_DSC8494_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/81543_DSC8496_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=81543_DSC8496_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/73941_DSC8498_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=73941_DSC8498_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/96810_DSC8499_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=96810_DSC8499_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/31961_DSC8500_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=31961_DSC8500_1600x1200_.jpg)
i removed oil galley plugs from the block and washed everything with petrol few times, now it is as clean as new ;D tomorrow i'll start assembling the the block (fit the crank, squirters, seals and timing belt spocket.)
i think my rings and head bolts will arrive next week and then i'll be able to assemble pistons and fit the cylinder head.
i will torqure main cap bolts up to 65 newton meters. my friend who worked as an engine mechanic for many years also told me that non stretch bolts should never be tightened as strech bolts, otherwise they will most likeky snap after heating up.. :D
hope they do not come loose (fingers crossed)
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(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/3308_DSC8506_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=3308_DSC8506_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/82164_DSC8507_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=82164_DSC8507_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/78300_DSC8508_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=78300_DSC8508_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/10073_DSC8514_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=10073_DSC8514_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/48968_DSC8515_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=48968_DSC8515_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/44884_DSC8517_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=44884_DSC8517_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/86556_DSC8518_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=86556_DSC8518_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/25786_DSC8519_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=25786_DSC8519_1600x1200_.jpg)
tight bearings, before and after editing with piston ring edge. it seems that n2 and n4 main bearing caps have some kind of distortion. amd after tighteniong the bolts up to 56 newton meters the cranks was hard to rotate.
after inspecting old bearings from my engine it seems that they suffered from same problem... but no one had tried to solve the problem before starting the car up. so after few turns of the crankshaft it rubbed off the top layer and worked like that till i took it apart.
(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/9246_DSC8520_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=9246_DSC8520_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/31646_DSC8521_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=31646_DSC8521_1600x1200_.jpg)
these are main bearing journals in the block, by the wer pattern (after rotating the crank by hand today) it seems that they are not distorter as the caps, and seem to be quite in a good shape.
(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/66672_DSC8509_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=66672_DSC8509_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/50092_DSC8510_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=50092_DSC8510_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/14827_DSC8511_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=14827_DSC8511_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/93731_DSC8512_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=93731_DSC8512_1600x1200_.jpg)(http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/images/62260_DSC8513_1600x1200_.jpg) (http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/view.php?filename=62260_DSC8513_1600x1200_.jpg)
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Just wanted to say that the main bolts are tightened dry. Lubrication would cause false torque values in this case. Also here are the piston protrusion measurements for all AAZ head gasket thicknesses.
0.66 - 0.86 mm: 1 notch
0.87 - 0.90 mm: 2 notch
0.91 - 1.02 mm: 3 notch
I'd also recommend adding some filler around the deformed area of the crank sprocket to support near the ends of the D flat; the distorted area might rub flat after a while. Just a paranoid man's bit of advice.
As for the main bearing concern, t might be time to check the alignment of your main journals, assuming you actually used some oil or assembly lubrication when spinning the crank while the caps were partially tightened. Was this the engine that had had it's journals already over-sized?That might explain the markings due to poor machine work done during the original rebuild. And are you sure you had the main caps aligned correctly? Just asking.
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Just wanted to say that the main bolts are tightened dry. Lubrication would cause false torque values in this case. Also here are the piston protrusion measurements for all AAZ head gasket thicknesses.
0.66 - 0.86 mm: 1 notch
0.87 - 0.90 mm: 2 notch
0.91 - 1.02 mm: 3 notch
I'd also recommend adding some filler around the deformed area of the crank sprocket to support near the ends of the D flat; the distorted area might rub flat after a while. Just a paranoid man's bit of advice.
As for the main bearing concern, t might be time to check the alignment of your main journals, assuming you actually used some oil or assembly lubrication when spinning the crank while the caps were partially tightened. Was this the engine that had had it's journals already over-sized?That might explain the markings due to poor machine work done during the original rebuild. And are you sure you had the main caps aligned correctly? Just asking.
i was tightening them oiled :|
i'll wash the bolts an the bolt holes with petrol and reassabmle it that way. have you used patially threaded bolts on your engine? 65 nm-s still seem a bitloose to me :D
i run light serp belt pulley on the crank. damaged old style spocket was there for 3 years already and signs of wear of crank nose fail during the dissasembly :D tightening the main bolt 90 newton _90 degrees helps a lot :D
main caps were installed correctly bearing lock on one side and numeration from timing belt, i never mixed new engine caps with my old ones. my engine seems to be rebuild already and the journal problem was there during that rebuild. we do not have bore alignement tools here in tbilisi. as far as i know machine shops can't even measure one :D that new engine block seems not to have journal problems (by bearing wear pattern, but still i do not want to mix the bearing caps, even for experiment :D
my engine seemed to work fust fine (for three years, during many competitions and in expeditions) like this and teardown reason was just blown headgasket. so i think that it will be good for another 50-100 k kilometers :D
after scraping of some material from tight bearing surfgace (the polished sports) now the cranks spins freely even when toruqed to 68nm-s. in the begining it was starting to "bite" after 30 nm-s
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today i finished "fine tuning" tight bearings. as a result cranks spins freely even after 70 nm-of bolt torquing.
after measurements it seems that i have removed 0.01 mm from one bearing and 0.015 from another :D
tomorrow i will toruqe the bolts to 65-68 newton meters, not lubricated. one more question? should i use locktight on crank bolts? or it is not needed at all?
i will definately use them on flywheel bolts and i have already locktighet the squirter bolts (as it was written in manual).
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http://youtu.be/GtVbcOpqPnU
video of my crank in the block ;D
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Removing material from the bearings sounds a bit scary but you seem to know what your doing. As you said, it was running strong till the HG blew. From the pics of the old compared to the new, you're already ahead of the game.
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yes the block is from my old engine and it was running with no issues till the head gasket problem. even old bearinfgs were damaged in the sports were i had to remove material from new bearings.
so i think there will be no problem. i changed intermediate shaft bearing. only front one that i have reisntalled from new engine, as it was in almost perfect condition with no shaft play. after installing it was a bit tight on my old block but after few seconts of working with 600 sandpaper i have IM shaf bearing play only of 0.05 mm :D
today i have installed front and rear seals, also double checled the main bolts at 65 newtons. as for the crank puley i have used a new pulley and an old bolts. that i have bought 3 years ago when i was first installing the negine. then i have tightened it 90 newton + 30 degrees (it was a bit scary to do the whole 90 degre turn). even on damaged cran nose the pulley has not moved a bit. nowwith tdi pulley i have done the same. 90 newtons + 30-35 degrees (the marks on the pulley itself shop 90 degree section). and i was not able to go further.... torque wrench showed 200 newtons but i was unable to tightet it further :D
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in pics you can see damaged crank front seal holder . it was removed from my engine. it seems that it had timing belt pulley problem at some point of its life :D now i have installed seal housing from new engine.
also i changed all alve stem seals and removed lot of burnt sludge from intake valves :| fourth cilynder valve was in the worst condition. valves middle cylinders were looking way better
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You need a longer lever for tightening the crank bolt properly. I'd be concerned about both the somewhat loose/peened sprocket and the incorrect torque on the re-used single-use torque to yield bolt. Meh, it's your valves...
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okey :D i'll try to tighten the bolt up to its recomended torque. hope the side of the block does not break :D i/m stopping the crank with wooden cube in the crankcase :D
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You need to replace all of the 1 time use bolts. That 12pt bolt on the crank pulley is a 1 time use.
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i agree with you abut the thing that they should be replaced after tightening it for 1 time, but they should be replaced after it is torqued to 90nm + 90 degrees. when i bought that bolt, i torqued it to 90nm + 40-50 degrees. that means that it was not stretched to its limit a, and it will reach its maximum clamping force after torqueing 90nm + 45-50 degrees :D (i think so....). so tomorrow i will torque it another 20-30 degrees :D + i m not using any lube for that bolt. . all the parts were well cleaned with petrol and then assembled.
this is my topic from 2010 :o
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=26361.0 i am using the bolt mentioned there :D
ther is no chance of buying new one, because i will have to wait minimum 3 weeks for that + i think that it will not be the issue. i am not usin 90 amp alternator or harmonic balancer. just light pulley from suzuki, 4pk belt, 50 amp alternator and power steering ;D that is the main reason why damaged crank nose lived fro 3 years with no issues
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I understand. It is just a 3.00 bolt and some time that could save your engine.
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I understand. It is just a 3.00 bolt and some time that could save your engine.
What he said.
Besides, I think I read earlier in you post you weren't in a hurry (just a friendly reminder). Three weeks seems like a long time - till you toast the engine and have a pile of scrap.
You know the specific bits better that we do - entirely your call.
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recieved rings and bolts in huge box shown in the first pic..... because of the size only shipping from uk was almost 30 dollars. if it was in smaller box it would be max 7-8 dollars :|
i'll start short block assembly tomorrow :o
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today i set oll the correct ring gaps with metald file and sandpaper, so all oil rings have 0.25mm gap and compression rings have 0.20 :))
then i assambled pistons and rods and instyalled them on the crank... after measuring piston protrusion the tallest cylinder was 0.70 mm and the shortes was 65 maybe... then i went to the shop to buy 1 notch head gasket. after checking all the shops where i usually buy parts it seems that only 3 notch victor reinz head gasket was available. as i have to assamble the engine as soon as possible (because i have midterm exams coming soon) i purchased 3 notch gasket. as i fugured out victor reinz gaskets do not vary too much. 1 notch seems to be 1.51, 2 notch 1.57 and 3 notch 1.63... elring gaskets are bit different, it starts from 1.45 and goes up to 1.65mm. 0.1 millimeter increasements... i think there will not be any problem with that as far as all the rings are new and compression will be perfect.
tomorrow i think that i will manage to assamble the short block and install it in the car
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i'm interested if con rod bolts are officially reusable on aaz engines?
i torqued (30 nm + 60%, after double chechinkg it was a bit more than 50 newtons) the bolts today and then i remembered that one of the 2-nd compression rings may not be installed correctly.... + i do not remember whitch of them, so i want to pull out the pistons and just check the rings...
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No. Not much on the aaz internal fasteners are re usable. As unconcerned with the rest of your engine I am surprised you asked.
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not willing to spend money on wind does not mean that i am not concerned :) already spent plenty of time and money on this engine and do not want to spend even more if it is not absolutely nessecary. anyway i was not able to find any info about non reusable bolts in my manuals, and that was the reason i asked :| about headbolts and crank spocket bolt it is written in bold that they must be replaced (and i have done that). it is very good to follow the manual sometimes but according to the manual i had to scrap a healthy non cracked head (no allowed to grind, on the contrary to very good practice of resurfacing vw diesel heads) and engine block (because of deformed n2 and 4 main bearing caps). frankly speaking after retoquing the spocket bolt today with some long ratchet i am sure that nothing will ever happend with it and a'm not worried a bit :) but piston ring thing really worries me, because there might be a chance of n2 compression ring be installed the wrong way for some particular reason....
after measuring the length of the bolts i will decide to use the bolts i have torqued today or the bolts from my old engine :) will use the ones that are shorter :) p.s. that is the trick that also can be used with head bolts to find out if they are stretched too much for reusing them
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This is true on the elongation of the bolt. But unlike the head bolts that will cost you some oil, antifreeze, head gasket, and maybe some fuel economy, the rods are a different story. I don't have "luck" when it comes to things like that. If I would reuse the bolts they would pull the heads off, bend every valve in the head and stick the lifters in their bores, score the crank so much it wouldn't be able to be undersized, and blow a hole through the block. I would come out with maybe some good seals I could use and an IM shaft...maybe a cam if it didn't bust when the lifters seized. And when that is what I am up against I tend to do it right the first time. You have already had some crazy "luck" with your old crank nose so you are looking at a different game than I do.
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This is true on the elongation of the bolt. But unlike the head bolts that will cost you some oil, antifreeze, head gasket, and maybe some fuel economy, the rods are a different story. I don't have "luck" when it comes to things like that. If I would reuse the bolts they would pull the heads off, bend every valve in the head and stick the lifters in their bores, score the crank so much it wouldn't be able to be undersized, and blow a hole through the block. I would come out with maybe some good seals I could use and an IM shaft...maybe a cam if it didn't bust when the lifters seized. And when that is what I am up against I tend to do it right the first time. You have already had some crazy "luck" with your old crank nose so you are looking at a different game than I do.
Ha ha - I have the same "luck". I remove the reliance on luck and am learning to dissolve as many potential issues early.
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i checked the rings and as expected everything was installed ther properly.. only one n1 compression ring that does not have orientation mark was installed with goetze logo facing down and i rotated it :) secod compression rings that have marked top side were all installed properly :D
then i measured bolts from that rods and from my old rods...surprisingly my old bolts were 0.5 or even more milimeters loger (stretched and thread was alsodeformed a bit) but the bolts that i tightened yesterday were all perfect, without stretching marks on the threads. i torqued them to 30 newtons + 50 newtons (turned out to be a bit less 90 degrees as stated in the manual) + i used some locktight. i doubt that they will ever come loose, and bolt snapping will not happen either ;D (that torque is needed to tighten main cap bolts on my suzuki engine... and after hydrolock at redline rpm all the bolts seem to be okay, but two rods were shortened by 1!!! inch :D(my friend did thing like that), and rod bolts are only tightened to 32 nm-s :D).
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installed short block n the car :D cant wait to fire it up :)))
i ws unable to find info about flywheel bolt torques... i usually torque up to 90 nm with plenty of lockight to keep everything tight :D did not have any problems before. this time i had to use 5 mercedes benz flywheel bolts and one vw flywheel. because one thread in the crank seemed to be damaged in in the end of the thread and it damaged the bolt when i waas just testing if all the bolt holes were clean without flywheel installed i was screwing all he bolts to the end of the hole just to make sure nothing was wrong with the bolts/threads). i dod not have another mercedes bolt inthe garage so decided to use a bit shorter vw bolt (that i was using before the past winter (when i found that mercedes had similarylly threaded bolts on the flywheel. my flywheel has a spacer fitted so i needed smth longer that vw bolts just not to worry about that :D
i tightened vw bolt up to 85nm + locktight (shorter bolt and damaged sctor of thread in the crank) woth no problem at all. and all other bolts were 90 nm + locktight :))
i think that i will finish assembling everything tomorrow :)
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yesterday i torqued head bolts as recomended in manual. them set the timing to 1.00mm and tightened camshaft bolt. the only thing i missed was that i used 4mm stopping plate instead of 4.5 mm on the cam. but as i found out camshaft tries to rest on that position itself. so using 4mm stopping plate will be no problem :))) i have tripple checked everything and everything is aligning perfectly every time i set flywheel on tdc :)))).
today i started the car. after bleeding injector lines it started up perfectly, without any misfiring or smoking. when starting cold it starts immediately but still misfires a little if i do not pull cold start lever, it is 8 degrees celsius in tbilisi now :)) after pulling the lever it just starts and runs fine without vibration or misfiring...
idle is smoother than ever, driver side mirror always used to vibrate on idle, not it isn't :D
also there are no sighns of exhaust gasses in coolant. when i had blown headgasket expansion tank was filling uf immediately and it was spilling the coolat everywhere . now it overflows only needed amount of water (i'm using water for few days to clean the cooling system, than i will fill it up with original vw g12 coolant 50/50 distilated wather concentration).
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Congratulations Vako!
Good to hear it's idling better and not pressurizing you cooling system for sure.
I started mine for the first time today as well - after a year long re-build - runs great.
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Successful rebuilds breaking out all over the place... Must be spring ;D
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100 miles on the clock already. engine runs smooth and strong :D it even starts without glowplugs now : i think that power will increase more with time. fuel economy already got better. but first 30 kilometers were not so economical. maybe 5 or more liters was used then :D
i have some twitching problem again and i think it's worn out u joint (one u joint was changed 2 month ago and another was left, because i did not have 2 joints then) :D now i bought another one from gmb and will change it tomorrow. i dont think that twitchng comes from engine because it is gear depended , in lower gears and uphill it twitches more that problem was also peresent before the rebuild :(
this is the trip that killed my u joints
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10201831728813534.1073741834.1191969666&type=1&l=bf31436998
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Great job Vako and beautiful photos. I hope your U-joint replacement fixes the twitch.
Do they make beefier ones?
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+1 on the great photos, reminds me how strange it is we have no structures over 200 years old anywhere around here.
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thank you for your positive feedbac about photos. those buildings are hugh up incthe mountains near the border of our country, they are at least 800-1000 years old (y)
and now about the twitching problem :| changed the u joint today (old one was not in very bad condition too) and there was no change :| after that i went to diesel mechanic who told me that some problem exists but it may come from different issues. injectors opening at different pressures or camshaft bit off the mark... but advised me to drive for at least 1000 kilometers. i think i will also use winns diesel purge.... maybe injectors are clogged a bit
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but today it started easily without cold start lever and glow plugs :)))