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Engine Specific Info and Questions => TDI Engine -General Info => Topic started by: bbob203 on October 01, 2013, 02:57:35 pm
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I think i have found the source of my turbo issues. Im boosting well over 25+ psi... I was originally using a regulator for a boost controller and had the boost gauge running off that so i was oblivious that the intake pressure was well over what my boost guage was reading. When i was just out at Andrews I re routed my boost guage line to read off i/c pipe pressure and installed a ball and spring type boost controller. My intention was to adjust and tune whilst driving home from arizona. No matter what i did i could not get the boost turned down.. my gauge only reads up to 20 psi and it is going way beyond that on full pedal/load up an incline etc so im suspecting <25. I tried to test my waste gate opening pressure today with a pump and it wouldn't open. Should i try to adjust it?
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that happens to the k14... i doubt they screw with those wastegates also as there is no replacements...
how did you plunmb it up?? manifold to regulator, same side has t for gauge.. other side goes to wastegate..
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plumbed the gauge from the top fitting on the regulator.
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ohhh yea forgot you used the gauge on fiitting on the regulaor.. see i told you to use a t
12 mo warentee on turbo... so talk to them... but i assume they did not take it apart as to break it ruins the turbo as no parts...
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Yea would've been nice to know that when i spent the 200 bucks on it.. ::) any other way to make it work so it isnt boosting so much..
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took the turbo/ exhaust mani off this afternoon was succesful in removing 2/3 of the bolts holding it on third one isnt a lost cause yet. Hopefully will be getting a replacement wastegate from rust caddy if i cant get this one freed up.
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You should be able to once you get it out. I want to say Jake had a writeup from early 2000's that detailed how to.
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Did you squirt penetrating oil into the boost fitting on the wastegate? Did you back off the adjuster on the end?
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ah didn't even think to do that w/ penetrating oil. :-[ This sucker has to be pretty stuck though because it was ultra sonic cleaned when it was rebuilt. You would think that would do it.
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well i pullled the exhaust side off the rest of the turbo and i got all the bolts out succesfully 8). Waste gate is loose but i cant pull it out of the exhasut housing im soaking it with some pb blaster and heating it only have a map gas torch though.
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got it out!! its seized though permanently too i think..
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Success!! its freed up and working ! They must have known they would freeze up because there is a 8mm allen in the wastegate valve head. To free it up a used a deadblow hammer to pound the valve down soaked with pb then twisted it with an 8mm repeatedly until i could push it down with my hands. I suppose as regular maintenance i will spray some oil into it now and again.
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Now is the best time to use valve lapping paste to clean of the seat in the turbine housing.
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Now is the best time to use valve lapping paste to clean of the seat in the turbine housing.
This was in the post of *I think* JakesFSPD or something like that. He was losing 5 psi at 20 psi of boost through the wastegate or something similar. After he was done it was around 1 psi or something. That was way back in the day, but a good post. Some like Libby and others may do it on their own or have been around and remember it like I did.
found the guy name is fspGTD
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=3252.0
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=1841.0
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I lapped it smooth as I could get it as it was slightly pitted in a few spots. Went and bought a few stainless socket cap bolts cleaned it up chased the threads and bolted it in. Tomorrow I will get it all put back together and see how it runs. Knowing that the wastegate it free and working I guess I wont need a boost controller? I can just set the wastegate to open at the desired pressure?
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no...in a word. The wastegate needs to function and if you run the screw in tighter than maybe a little past stock it will have creep. you will essentially have exactly what you did before with it not letting the gasses bypass. The ball and spring is the way to go if you have it.
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X2. The stock adjuster is also the stop for how wide the wastegate will open. You may be able to adjust the K14 wastegate to 11 or 12 psi but if you go higher than that with the stock adjuster the wastegate doesn't open enough at higher rpms and you'll get a spike.
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Ah makes sense! ;)
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So did you get it back together? Did fixing the wastegate, running a ball/spring MBC and setting the boost 20ish or a little less cure the high rpm engine fart?
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Set the wastegate to open at 12-13 psi MBC set at 18psi with a slight spike to 19.5ish if i downshift and really punch it. egts exactly where they should be. This is a different car now :D. The timing advance helped significantly esp with smoothing out the idle and clearing some smoke. The extra advance also helped with acceleration a bit too.
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Good, good, but does it still do the 4,000 rpm weirdness?
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Good, good, but does it still do the 4,000 rpm weirdness?
Couldn't get it to happen!
Most likely wastegate related. I hope!
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Took it out today and drove it about 60 miles around the city driving like it should be driven(safely of course) the whole time and it didn't let me down. Took it to 4000+ rpms more than a few times. Here's a little shot how i ended up running the MBC. There was a bolt stanchion on the back of the intake presumable for a heat shield on the pd with a corresponding reinforcement dimple on the inside so i trimmed 3/8 that was sticking out and drilled and tapped it for a 1/8 npt 90 degree street elbow and ran a barb off that for the MBC.
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b75/bendover817/2013-10-04180453_zps438c0e9b.jpg) (http://s17.photobucket.com/user/bendover817/media/2013-10-04180453_zps438c0e9b.jpg.html)
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If you were boosting well over 25 psi then likely the exhaust manifold pressure was significantly higher. Maybe you were getting valve float after all.
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valve float.
should i be concerned with long term permanent damage?
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I'm not sure. The obvious risk if the valves were floating from the EMP exceeding the closing force of the valve springs is that the pistons might have contacted the valves. There may not have been any valve contact, tho and even if there was, it may not have been with enough force to damage the valve (the force holding them open would have been a springy cushion of exhaust pressure).
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So i had a k0/ko4 hybrid in my hands last night. People call my k14 small. That is a small turbo..! People run these at 21 psi.. How?