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General Information => Troubleshooting => Topic started by: Chev2dub on September 13, 2013, 03:45:51 pm
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My pump is leaking somewhere outta the back when it is running its a steady drip
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Have you checked the timing recently? Did the copper washer get nicked up that goes around the plug? O=ring finally cracking between head and body? Nuts and check valves all tight and in good shape. Cracked a line when timing it?
Those are the first thoughts. Best stop there and see what the responses are to them.
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checked timing really recently, copper washer doesnt seem nicked. o ring between head and body??? nuts and check valve? and lines are good tried a different set of them.
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Copper washer is suspect, if the leak wasn't there before setting timing.
The big o-ring on HP section is also suspect, if the IP hasn't been sealed in a few years.
I would clean the IP exterior with brake-parts spray and watch closely to identify where the IP wets itself. Flashlight and inspection mirror are helpful.
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If you hook up an electric lift pump, and run it with the engine off, you can usually see it drip out.
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looks like the back large o-ring is the problem any specific part number i need for that or can i grab a pack of orings and install it my self. i have a pump thats pretty much a spare core i took the rear seal off of it but i had to pretty much pound a 25mm onto it but it worked.... '
Just making sure i didnt miss something on others posts..... thanks
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Non-turbo IP seal kit info here:
http://www.vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=11314&hilit=dgk
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uCztD2XkrP4/Tyn2eprjzAI/AAAAAAAAAik/DDoQyOjWWY0/s640/dgk126-Diagram.png)
( bigger pic here: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uCztD2XkrP4/Tyn2eprjzAI/AAAAAAAAAik/DDoQyOjWWY0/s0/dgk126-Diagram.png )
You can get a Bosch kit for ~$20, the front seal is extra, ~$18. (Call your local injection/diesel shop.)
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A friend of mine recently ordered a turbo pump kit and the input shaft seal seemed to have come with it in the box. I guess they are including this item now? Anyway, I think that a reseal might be in order because once they spring leaks from one seal the usual case is that another leak will pop up shortly.
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thanks..... this is what im talking about.
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A friend of mine recently ordered a turbo pump kit and the input shaft seal seemed to have come with it in the box. I guess they are including this item now? Anyway, I think that a reseal might be in order because once they spring leaks from one seal the usual case is that another leak will pop up shortly.
I recall that DiPaco kits include the seal, but they might not be as easy to find as Bosch kits.
Mos'def agree that the leaks come in groups - better to seal it all at once.
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PS: Bosch turbo kit might have a 19mm seal, but not a 17mm.
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Is this something that a person with regular mechanical competence can do? Do wana blow some stuff out.
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It's definitely fiddly and you can DEFINITELY do some significant damage to your pump. There is a small spacer that sits between the pump plunger and the pump head - if it falls out of place when you are putting things together the 'foot' on the plunger inside the pump will snap off. At that point you are in for a complete new high pressure head for your pump - not cheap at all.
There's a FAQ on here somewhere showing a complete pump teardown and reassembly. You wouldn't have to go that far to do the O-ring by any means but it would be worth looking at so you know what is inside this very expensive thing you are going to take apart. There's also a procedure to do the o-ring without completely removing the high pressure head - it involves using a bolt through the timing hole to keep pressure on the plunger so the spacer doesn't get kicked loose.
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I've done that on-car procedure twice.
I might have above average mechanical experience, but I didn't have to try real hard.
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This is about as good as it gets these days. I think I have purchased several of these from this person before and never had a problem.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GASKET-KIT-SEAL-KIT-VW-VOLKSWAGEN-VE-Injection-Pump-Diesel-/131008972143?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e80be456f&vxp=mtr
The large green one can be seen when enlarged.
Myself, I always pull the pump from the car and place it in a vise with the high pressure side UP to go after this large seal. If the pump is off the car, it is a lot easier to clean the external surface with small wire, brass, nylon, and tooth brush with brake clean or carb cleaner. You just have to be sure you keep TWO of the dist. head long bolts still threaded at ALL times.
It is best not to let the cleaner spray linger on the outer seal surfaces any longer than is necessary. Compressed air is your friend.
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I forced myself to do a reseal pump job with a video a guy on ebay sells and am glad I did. If you have the time and tools and what to save money and reseal a working pump its a great option.
Now every engine I put into a service I do a complete timing belt/water pump job and yank the pump off the car. Because I have now been bit more than once by replacing an external seal while on the car and have another leak shortly thereafter.
Seeing a diesel leak on these cars makes my heart sink and after seeing the kind of mess it can make on new coolant hoses I refuse to ever go through that again.
Plus when you have the pumps apart you may not notice it on a running car, but the vane cavity can be gooey effecting the pumping.
A vise and the ability to work with your hands and potentially make tools is what you need.
Job is easy, I originally worked on a spare junk cheap pump I got just in case I screwed something up.
What I do is externally clean the pumps before starting and mark some pivotal pieces with a swab of nail polish so you can get the orientation correct. also a picture of a few areas is a good back up. its just not worth tearing into it without doing so and trying to remember.
Doing it this way I can't say I have screwed anything up on running used pumps. Thats a handfull now that serve as daily drivers still in service.