VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
General Information => Upgrades (non engine related ) => Topic started by: homerj1 on June 27, 2013, 04:34:15 pm
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I've figure out what not to use for turbo to intake piping.
(http://imagesup.net/?di=10137227943413)
So what can I use that is moderately cheap?
Will be pulling the piping and intercooler off my retired AHU, but I suspect that the piping may not be really usable with out some jigging.
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Exhaust pipe is plenty robust, and easy to work with.
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Exhaust pipe is plenty robust, and easy to work with.
I was thinking of using exhaust pipe, but I had concerns about rust forming on the id. of the exhaust pipe? Vs -using alum., plastic or stainless for piping?
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http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=19&products_id=767&osCsid=61ede2c748c37e075f81a3ef1cce299e
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Most diesels have enough oil in the intake it is unlikely for rust to show up.
Unless you decide to use old rusty pipe to start with, then you get what you deserve.
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If you use exhaust piping just have it powder coated.
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If rust forms on the ID of the pipe.. you have water in your engine.. get it checked out ;)
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It's pretty normal to have water inside your engine, and I don't just mean the stuff in the coolant
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In the path between filter and the head?
I know for sure exhaust side of things..
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Water accumulates in your oil due to condensation. This is one of the main reasons why driving with a stuck open thermostat is a bad idea. Typically the oil gets up to temp and the water is boiled off and escapes through the crankcase vent (into the turbo, through the IC tubing then out the exhaust). Given just how oily our diesels are, and that most all of us own them because we drive them for more than 2 minutes at a time, I don't think rust would be an issue if the car doesn't sit for extended periods of time.
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Thanks for all the help!
Although intercooler stuff will have to wait, as I still need to get one & best of all I just shelled out $250 plus for a starter for my 1.6td automatic..........ouchies...... :'(
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WOW. Better be plated with something good.
You better install a new starter bushing too as even a 250.00 unit will die if the old one is worn
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As I recall, those don't utilize a bushing. It has been awhile.
Years ago (15?), I bought the only auto diesel starter that VW showed on it books in North America. And, I paid over $325 at THAT time with dollars that actually had some value. Those starters are in a very hot, vulnerable spot. Sure hope you still have a heat shield in place. Otherwise, that starter will not last long.
I think I saw one of these starters on ebay last week. The problem is....you never know if they are any good....and, they are usually not. They weigh about 40 lbs. Boat anchors.
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The auto starters are the same as many other auto starters. Built in bushings in their own nose cone.
If you can get one for cheap.. a starter/alt/generator place can likely rebuild them for under $100.
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I took my 'weak' starter apart, cleaned and regreased the reduction gears, and had way better cranking speed.
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Thanks for all the advice!
The starter was cooked from my 12 hr road trip and couldn't be rebuilt - and couldn't find anything used - hence the reman. from Bosch and the cost. ( even that was hard to locate - a lot of the jobbers couldn't find one in Canada)
I'll try to improve the heat shielding a bit more, the local vw mechanic even suggested that some diesel\auto trans owners put a small fan in to keep the starter cool. lol - holy VW design flaw or what!!
My goal is to slowly work towards getting parts ( or a parts mk1) for a 5 speed swap, but it can't happen right now.
I bet the starter is personally signed by Robert Bosch - that is why it is worth so much ;)
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Yes!
Got the new 40 lbs starter in and supercar 2 lives!!!! Just got to find tune the heat sheild I have a few types here ( even a plastic one from an ABA) - as the turbo oil drain line runs pretty close.
What do you guys think of a nice chunk of Roxol insulation between the starter and the manifold?
Best of all no more driving my wife's Tercel!!! :'(
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I had an auto Rabbit (or two) back in the 80's... never again.
I fabbed an air duct from the grille to under the heat shield. A fan would be a good addition.
Most of the heat from the exhaust is radiant, so a reflective heatshield is pretty effective. If I were to add insulation, I'd put a thin layer on the starter side of the heatshield, leaving room for cooling airflow.
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I had an auto Rabbit (or two) back in the 80's... never again.
I fabbed an air duct from the grille to under the heat shield. A fan would be a good addition.
Most of the heat from the exhaust is radiant, so a reflective heatshield is pretty effective. If I were to add insulation, I'd put a thin layer on the starter side of the heatshield, leaving room for cooling airflow.
The air duct is a good idea! I'll just heat shield it for now, and put in a 5 speed during Christmas.
To be honest, the 1.6td and the auto combo accelerates not too bad with the fuel screw turned up, k03 turbo and 2.25 inch exhaust.
Might even take it to the local drags just to check out the times. ;) PO with a na in the car had high 20 or low 21 sec runs in the quarter
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DANG. Well to be honest.. You can probably launch it fully spooled right?? Spool against the brakes, Betcha she takes off like a rocket!
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One of my friends used some aircraft tube from a hang glider. It was from the cross bar.(inside the wing) Not sure if it was 2.25 or 2.5. Strong & can be polished. Close to 20 feet of material.
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What platform are you installing on ?