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General Information => Troubleshooting => Topic started by: Chev2dub on June 22, 2013, 05:33:17 am
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i purchased a used 1.6 NA off a guy, when i crank it over by hand to make sure everything rolls nice i get a bind at the same place almost a full rotation of the crank when i roll it back the opposite direction it stops on almost the same spot. i haven't had the timing belt off nor did her motor ran when pulled but it has been quite a bit of time. since it has ran. and a critter made his home in the air box. havent taken the intake completely off yet nor the head or anything i realized those would be ideal but i wasnt sure of any things to check like taking out the injectors and seeing if theres pressure or fliud built up etc
My theories
Timing somehow loosened up over time?????
Something is in the Cylinder not allowing to to roll over? Fluid rust or critter junk?
Please any suggestions would be awesome owner said that he would refund me if it was no good.
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pull head... the headgasket material will be ready for a change.. so just pull it..
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So I've pulled the head reace head gasket and used arp studs put the motor in time as well as the pump timed too. Now that its all back together I can't get it to start. Tried bleeding the system of air by cracking all 4 lines to the injectors even tried to tow start it no dice any suggestions I'm a big newbie to diesels
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I'd probably:
- check the compression. Rings or valves might be shot.
- crank it with the injector lines off, to see if the IP spits fuel from each delivery valve.
- "pop" test the injectors, or put them on the IP assbackwards to see if they all spray.
Diesel needs air, fuel, compression (>300psi), timing... the rest is tweeking.
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I would check the stop seloniod.
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ok so i got it running.... i have to keep my foot on the pedal to keep it running and there is alot of white smoke coming out of the tail pipe..... From what ive read timing or compression RIght?
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Most likely: air in lines or timing.
Low compression will make hard starting, but not usually white smoke.
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Guys thanks for all the help I'm pretty sure my timing is off the spec I read was outtve a Bentley and I'm reading everywhere to do .95 so I'm going to do that and report back
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My bet is on a leaky mainshaft seal on the injection pump. Been there, done that
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run off jerry can to see if main shaft seal/internal pump weak/failing.. sucking fuel from can on bumper less effort then from tank.. also eliminates all the filers and other lines to it.. for test.. if its just fine off can.. then you can look at other things... main shaft seal leaking should drip fuel.. but weak suck pump.. ok add electric booster pump if so..
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When my mainshaft seal was leaking there was no visible dribble. The only indication was I only noticed a wet edge on the back of the timing belt
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i changed the pump to a know working pump.... no leaks i can see.. recently here are the things that i have done changed the in and out line to the pump to clear line. changed the starter because it was weak as hell and now im pop testing my injectors....
Small issue i found was #4 cylinded Injector had air creeping up through where it seats/threads into the prechamber, when i pull the injector it was dry and had some carbon build up... so thought bad injector... so now ive installed new heat shields where all the injectors are... and after having them pop tested im going to see whats up and report back.
And btw thanks for all the help ive been learning alot on my own so far reading... one day it shall run!
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Well I'm going to guess my issue is pump timing pop tested all the injectors they are all good cleared the fuel lines of air... When it idles it will idle fine the act like its going to die then idle fine the lug down u get the idea.... Pump timing????
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Either it still has air in it or your filter is plugged/junk. I would think it to be fuel supply related
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If that was the case wouldn't I see air in either the in line or return line I have clear lines on both
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Plugged filters produce a vaccuum on the pump side of the system. Got a gauge to throw on the flange? Reduced flow means reduced pressure in the IP and less delivery. Mine was acting like I had the fuel screw turned out too far and on idle it was OK but try and take off from anything other than a flat it would bog down and nearly crap out. My system had no other leaks so no air being drawn up and visable through the clear lines.
Just some thoughts on this one.
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What your are saying makes sense. I'm just unsure of what flange your talking about throwing a guage on. Idk maybe it could have sucked some stuff off the bottom but old filter was replaced before I tried starting it. If I hold the throttle it runs well as soon as I back off the throttle it will idle then lug then idle fine then lug. Lugging or dieseling and there is white smoke the whole time smell like fuel
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Now the lugging and white smoke are a condition of retarded or very advanced timing. Are you square with that? I was thinking the you could put gauge on in place of the air bleeder valve on the top of the flange that hold the fuel filter on. There's one on my MK1 Rabbit. not sure what we are dealing with here other than a diesel 1.6 NA engine.
You should see some vaccuum on the gauge but numbers above 5 are a worry and 7 a bad I think. Try a search on the forum for vaccuum and fuel line or filter and I suspect you will get a few hits and might double check the numbers.
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Maybe, probably. I still think there is some air there
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Darn well could be. Until you can rev it up real good a couple of times then there tends to be pockets of it stuck in the IP. Once you flush it out the idle and such may smooth out.
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There was still air in the ip I found this out after bleeding the system for the better part of 45 mins lol still have white smoke so I'm going to mess with the pump timing soonish too... Also I'm going to triple check for more air in the lines also. Ill report back thanks guys
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disclaimer; what I am about to say is considered wrong (albeit successful) .. follow my advice at your own risk
Get the engine warmed up via running it, idling, raised RPM.. your choice. Shut it down. Loosen the four pump mounting bolts with the engine not running so that you can move the pump with effort, not so that it is sloppy in its mount however. Start the engine up and idle it while you go around to the front and move the pump back and forth about 1/16" at a time until it runs better. IF it does not, then you have different issues than static timing.
Where ever you set it if it runs better and is not overly CLACK CLACK CLACK CLACK coming from the cylinder head, you are most likely very close to the ideal timing setting for your particular engine. No smoke at idle, no popping when revving up, and not overly CLACK CLACK from the cylinders. The clacking is the fuel being injected so advanced that it is igniting against the piston coming up in the cylinder, similar to pinging in a gas engine.
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disclaimer; what I am about to say is considered wrong (albeit successful) .. follow my advice at your own risk
Get the engine warmed up via running it, idling, raised RPM.. your choice. Shut it down. Loosen the four pump mounting bolts with the engine not running so that you can move the pump with effort, not so that it is sloppy in its mount however. Start the engine up and idle it while you go around to the front and move the pump back and forth about 1/16" at a time until it runs better. IF it does not, then you have different issues than static timing.
Where ever you set it if it runs better and is not overly CLACK CLACK CLACK CLACK coming from the cylinder head, you are most likely very close to the ideal timing setting for your particular engine. No smoke at idle, no popping when revving up, and not overly CLACK CLACK from the cylinders. The clacking is the fuel being injected so advanced that it is igniting against the piston coming up in the cylinder, similar to pinging in a gas engine.
I had great success with above advice.
The key I found, was not too be too shy with the movement of the ip. I advanced it so far that the clacking noise was quite loud, then backed off a bit until it quietens down.
The result, no white smoke on startup, a quick start up and seemingly tons more power. ( in relative 60ish hp terms)
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While adjusting the pump... How fast should the white smoke clear up when I have the correct timing, a few mins a few seconds??? I'm going to truly this tommrow
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Immidiately.
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I've bleed the hell out of this thing.... And I'm still having a small amount of air in the return line Ive tried cracking the lines at the injectors while running... I cracked the lines at the pump. It shows air barley when you get on the throttle I have all new VW return lines from injector to injextor
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Not the issue then. if the bubbles are sitting at a high spot in the line it is likely fine.
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i get air bubbles in the return when i rev it... This has been by far the most frustrating..... things that make sense to me Maybe the IP main shaft seal is FUBAR ????? thats about the only way air could be getting in. ive tried bleeding all the lines while running Ive also tried to bleed the lines as Bentley says crack all 4 lines and tighten them one by one. motor actually starts running 2 injectors in and of course smooths out once all are tight. Ive noticed when it heats up to operating temp if its running smoothly it will start to run lumpy like it has air in the system when the fan kicks on and stops when the fan is off????
ALSO: when it was running kinda smooth Ive also tried to adjust the timing by hand white smoke still runs out and i do not notice to much difference in the them running when i try to advance it (towards the motor) or when i retard it.... im going to dial time it again soonish when ever i can get the tools to my disposal again. hopefully this week... again guys thanks for all the help! getting replies almost helps me not wana bash my head off the wall with frustration!
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Ja, I'd suspect the IP main seal.
One way to know if you are close on the timing is if the cold-start lever has a significant effect (lumpy when engine is cold unless CS is pulled).
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Pump timing I was apparently 180 out and we used a gueniune dial indicator
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sooo.. This fixed the issue?
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ya the issue is fixed now i have to figure out why its the fan isnt running once it gets hot and the coolant isnt circulating? going to replace hoses and T-stat and probly radiator.... is it ok to use aluminum radiators from a gasser instead of the old copper one?