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General Information => User's ride Wall => Topic started by: gtiguy1994 on March 04, 2013, 09:43:08 pm
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Hello,
I need this like I need a hole in my head. But the price was too good to be true.
Cliffs:
Found for sale on a Minot local car forum
Went to look at it, couldn't believe my eyes at the condition it was in. Kept poker face
The only story I got was the mileage is true.:rolleyes: (can anyone run the VIN?)The PO said the head gasket went out, they replaced it, the head gasket blew 30 miles later. Bought a 1.6D/5speed engine/trans. Never got around to installing it.
They let it sit for ~10 years under a tree.
Strut towers are clean and rust free.
I towed it home, pulled the engine, cleaned up the engine bay. swapped in said good engine this evening. Got that running. Sorting out some odds and ends before I take it out on the road.
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt223/gtiguy1997/IMG_1347_zpsfc926623.jpg)
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Had to "make do" with what I had laying around to get the battery hooked up. I will do it the proper way one I am sure the engine is good to go with new belts/pulleys. The tank is hooked up now. I just ran diesel out of a bottle to test fire the engine. No need to waste time doing one thing when I need when I should do something major. I need to replace some rubber fuel lines as well. I have a list of "to-do's"
The video and sound are out of sync for some reason.
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt223/gtiguy1997/th_2012-11-17_11-39-34_883.jpg) (http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt223/gtiguy1997/2012-11-17_11-39-34_883.mp4)
In my opinion, its is good shape. I do need to find some odds and ends. You input is appreciated.
I need to part out the 1.5D so I can put money into this, whether it is paint, parts, etc.
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I wouldn't spend a dime on interior or the exterior.. The car is near flawless.. Spend the money upgrading and replacing what needs it.
IE. All the crap that went bad when it sat for 10 years. Be safe, it needs all new brakes. Might as well do suspension, don't lower it.. that sucks.. Keep it stock or SLIGHTLY lower and you will love it.
Yes the NA is slow as a mule, but it can still whip corners like any other.
Nice pull brother, I wished I liked rabbits.. but most of them are built in Murricah, and that is a no-no.
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hell me id keep and fix the dealer ac even.. get new lines made up to fit a serp ac set up.. the dealer installed ac stuff inside is just perect/undamaged..
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Round eye fenders & very little rust. Nice find!
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That is remarkably clean! Congrats!
A few cans of VHT plastic/interior paint will even out the shades of pink.
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thanks for the replies! I will look into the interior VHT paint. I look forward to driving it around as soon as the snow melts away...which wont me until may. ::)
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Put some winters on it and drive it :)
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Merricah.....
Bud you live in North America. Get used to it :)
Nice car!
I wouldn't spend a dime on interior or the exterior.. The car is near flawless.. Spend the money upgrading and replacing what needs it.
IE. All the crap that went bad when it sat for 10 years. Be safe, it needs all new brakes. Might as well do suspension, don't lower it.. that sucks.. Keep it stock or SLIGHTLY lower and you will love it.
Yes the NA is slow as a mule, but it can still whip corners like any other.
Nice pull brother, I wished I liked rabbits.. but most of them are built in Murricah, and that is a no-no.
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Merricah.....
Bud you live in North America. Get used to it :)
Nice car!
No sir, German built Jetta all the way :) I got 5 German built Jetta's in my driveway right now ;)
3 are mk1 's ;)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/Random/0306001626.jpg)
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Looking for some online help here.
I cannot get the upper transmission mount on. I think the wrong rubber mount was pressed in.
Maybe someone can help me out.
It looks like the PO of the mount pressed in the Engine side mount. Can anyone verify this? I looked on Germanautoparts and it shows that the mount pressed in is the incorrect one.
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt223/gtiguy1997/2013-03-11_13-31-03_547_zpscf9b02c9.jpg)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt223/gtiguy1997/2013-03-11_13-31-30_930_zps0172c363.jpg)
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Hmm, Its still a project thread :) I drove it today. 23 miles on the highway and a few around town. It was very windy on the highway. Snow was creating some icy spots on the highway. Had it up to 63 mph. Clutch needs adjusted. I passed a pick up truck that was going 55mph, I chuckled, then he passed me...probably not to be behind a diesel Rabbit. lol. I am going to replace the thermostat. I had no heat. I used my laser thermometer and had head flange temps at 165 and bottom of the radiator temps around 120ish IIRC. I really dont remember since the bottom hose/flange temps werent too high. The temp light is on though. Even from the start. No major vibrations, the tires are shot. I believe the heater control lever is broke. I cant move it. It went into all 5 gears. Although the white plastic ball piece was breaking up. I think there is an exhaust leak from an exhaust gasket.
Waiting on word for the guy in Seattle with the 5 speed swap parts.
Installed the correct bushing in the mount today. Installed the mount and a new battery.
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt223/gtiguy1997/th_2013-03-11_11-17-16_573_zps70022ec5.jpg) (http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt223/gtiguy1997/2013-03-11_11-17-16_573_zps70022ec5.mp4)
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Don't figure a thermostat will help you, unless it is stuck open.. ?
The 45 degree drop between top and lower flange says that the thermo is closed with no coolant flow, or you checked it right after a drive and the radiator is over cooling the engine because of a stuck open thermo.
I think the thermo is closed (as 165 isnt hot enough to open it) and that is just from the cold air blowing in through the grille and using the aluminum head as a giant heat sink and sucking the heat away. what was the ambient today?
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I kinda thought that too (stuck open t-stat) but the lever on the heater controls is stuck. (PO tried to glue it back together) I let it run in my garage after the cruise and it still had no heat. Temps were up. Im pretty sure the heater control valve is stuck on cold.
I wont be driving it today for 3 reason. 1) I am waiting on the 5 speed swap parts. 2) The snow is melting and there is a lot of salt/slush/water on the roads. 3) I have it up on jack stands at the moment. :)
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It has heat now. The wire cable that goes from the heater core hose valve to the control in the dash is inop. It was closed the entire time hence no heat while traveling.
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temp light.... wrong sensor on the neck... gauge vs light is 2 different sensors... if you went to a delux cluster w/temp gauge problem solved.. else get right one
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Thank you for your input on the temp light. I will look into swapping sensors today.
I am thinking I need to sell this Rabbit. I have been off work for a month due to lower lumbar surgery. I need to put money into my house, not cars.
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A man's gotta do what a man's gotta due. Nice car, but you should have taken pictures with the engine in place. That is what you changed from the original.
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I may have taken some pictures before I removed the 1.5D but aren't they basically the same engine? I mean, you arent going to notice much just looking at it unless youre looking at every nut and bolt. I thought showing off the clean, zero rust engine bay was more important than a old greasy engine sitting in there. Please, dont take offence to this. I am in no way starting an argument or contesting your post.
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Also, got the all 5 forward gears and reverse today. Did a little modification to the reverse lock out box. And it still has a lock out :) Drove it a few more miles today.
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Please, dont take offence to this. I am in no way starting an argument or contesting your post.
Without offensive words, it is a discussion not an argument ;) People get that mixed up with me in person all the time.. I like to talk, and they think I am arguing.. haha.
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??? mod shifter lock out... dude you did something wrong..
1st this is fyi down road...
hang pair of vicegrips on rod running front to rear close to firewall..
loosen the 8mm (13mm heads) lock bolt nut on the clamp for side to side adj.. just loose..
hold that verticle part in hand, turn the vice grips left/right you will feel clicks... usually 1 click left/right does it.. sometimes half a click.. not so simple.. tighten lock bolt
start car up run thru gears.. if all good done.. if you went wrong way.. go other way.. if you went 1 or half click.. well go other way.. why counting clicks..
those nay sayers... there is no way it can click... you feel the splines of the rod/lock slip.. each slip is a nice little pop.. why vicegrip method has never failed me.. works on all 020 set ups.. think of it as a measurement..
###########disclaimer.. any worn bushing/rods makes this usless.. ###########################
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I was thinking in the FS thread you would have shown this car in its best light and true, a rust free engine bay is a plus but car sales are a strange thing. Any time an engine bay doesn't have an engine the price just went down. That speaks of trouble. Otherwise why would it be coming out of there? Maybe not the case with an upgrade but it is second nature to think bad of something if it isn't the way you expect to see it. At least that is how my pea brain works it. If it works at all. Later DAS
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??? mod shifter lock out... dude you did something wrong..
1st this is fyi down road...
hang pair of vicegrips on rod running front to rear close to firewall..
loosen the 8mm (13mm heads) lock bolt nut on the clamp for side to side adj.. just loose..
hold that verticle part in hand, turn the vice grips left/right you will feel clicks... usually 1 click left/right does it.. sometimes half a click.. not so simple.. tighten lock bolt
start car up run thru gears.. if all good done.. if you went wrong way.. go other way.. if you went 1 or half click.. well go other way.. why counting clicks..
those nay sayers... there is no way it can click... you feel the splines of the rod/lock slip.. each slip is a nice little pop.. why vicegrip method has never failed me.. works on all 020 set ups.. think of it as a measurement..
###########disclaimer.. any worn bushing/rods makes this usless.. ###########################
Thanks for the help...wish it was sooner :)
I asked for help. No one offered anything before. Not on 3 of the different forums. One cannot simply rely on others for ever. I have no issue buying
the correct parts. These parts are all removable and cheap. I cut nothing on the body, bent nothing on the body, scraped no paint. I need a new shifter bottom that attached to the tunner white the white ball anyways. Ill get that part.
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I was think in the FS thread you would have shown this car in its best light and true, a rust free engine bay is a plus but car sales are a strange thing. Any time an engine bay doesn't have an engine the price just went down. That speaks of trouble. Otherwise why would it be coming out of there? Maybe not the case with an upgrade but it is second nature to think bad of something if it isn't the way you expect to see it. At least that is how my pea brain works it. If it works at all. Later DAS
Thank you for your input.
I guess removing non-running, lower horsepower engine for a running, higher horsepower engine isnt the best option.
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im banned on poortex as im too smart and their select moron sucks someone... so gotta ask in right forum.. wish you luck on the sale..
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I think I found the reason the clutch was slipping.
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt223/gtiguy1997/2013-03-17_16-37-26_551_zpsf90191e7.jpg)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt223/gtiguy1997/2013-03-17_16-36-59_850_zps462ddde4.jpg)
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt223/gtiguy1997/2013-03-17_16-39-35_857_zpse5e6393e.jpg)
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How did you not notice your transmissions entire fluid content on your driveway!? HAHA
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The valve cover gasket was leaking very very badly. I thought that was the cause of the oil on the floor of my garage. I replaced the v/c and still had a leak. The clutch was slipping, so I pulled it and the rest is pretty self explanatory. :)
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Was it just the front seal on the trans or the rear seal on the engine as well. I just had this same experience but my clutch plate looked a lot rattier. It was soaked so much I think I could have squeezed some out of it. Made for an interesting ride on the steeper hills and down shifting to 3rd was a joke. Spinnnnnn papa spin.
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The seal on the engine looks good. I believe that the push rod seal is the main culprit here.
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The bushing that allows the pushrod to be centered was so worn on mine I had to pull it out the front with an improvised claw hook. Could not drive it out the back and didn't have a self tapping bolt handy that was that size. Seal was all but gone as well, barely a thin ring left.
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seal and bushing removed. Put in a order for some new parts.
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt223/gtiguy1997/2013-03-18_16-00-40_804_zpsf37da9fe.jpg)
Found the exhaust leak. The gasket looks good, there are no cracks on the manifold. It is getting new exhaust gaskets and intake gasket
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt223/gtiguy1997/2013-03-18_16-47-46_879_zps36f8b824.jpg)
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What prevented the exhaust gasket from coming up tight to the manifold? Is that flange tweaked somehow and preventing a tight seal? Or was it just loose?
Don't make the mistake of putting all the gaskets on the same way. One side gets flipped in comparison to the other. Mirror images of one another. If you do flip em they cover the port partially and the engine may be restricted enough already with a tiny pipe.
I just recently went to a 2.25 inch pipe and it runs much nicer. Sounds better too.
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I am not exactly sure what caused the exhaust leak. I used a straight edge to see if anything was goofy, everything looks good. The gaskets were on correctly.
This morning tasks included a brake flush, lots of nasty brown fluid in the lines. Inspected brake components, All parts look great, plenty of shoe left.
I noticed the ball joints (up front, obviously) still have the factory rivots, they have no play.
I bought this bleeder a while ago, it works great.
(http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt223/gtiguy1997/2013-03-20_08-12-47_305_zps1ca09f91.jpg)
Waiting on my gaskets for the intake and exhaust, they were supposed to arrive at the parts store early this morning, but the freight truck was delayed. Off to have a cup of coffee.
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Success.
Installed new clutch push rod bushing and seal, new input shaft seal, new clutch components, new intake/exhaust gaskets. Figured out the transmission linkage. Took it for a ride... Of course it snowed...again. Those tires are horrible in the snow. But everything works as it should.
If I keep it, I will have it painted, look for some OEM wheels, or keep it completely stock. Not too many stock ones running around anymore. I may be a minority then :P
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I would go for keeping it stock as it is so well preserved. Keep the white with a black under the bump on the door line and redo the silver wheels. OR do one of those black Diesel Rabbit decals under that same line on the door.
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wow, as soon as I had installed the new seals, I got an offer to sell. Sold for full asking price plus fuel cost. Its going to remain stock per new owner. :)
Nice talking to you fellas. But I only own vw gassers now. :/
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Not even cool bro. LOL
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Plus fuel costs? What about parts and time factor. What did he do fill the tank with some really expensive diesel and wanted to get the price back? Fuel costs Hmmm?
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Sold for full asking price.
Plus fuel costs? What about parts and time factor.
Well I hope his asking price factored parts and services rendered. I have a few people wanting to buy my 88 I saved.. Paid $500 and I could easily sell it for 15-1800, but its TOO clean haha.
All the best with your inferior gas engines ;)
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Plus fuel costs? What about parts and time factor. What did he do fill the tank with some really expensive diesel and wanted to get the price back? Fuel costs Hmmm?
In the friendliest way of saying it: Its not your money or time. The new owner was very very pleased and I got what I wanted. Both parties are satisfied with the transaction.
Sold for full asking price.
Plus fuel costs? What about parts and time factor.
Well I hope his asking price factored parts and services rendered. I have a few people wanting to buy my 88 I saved.. Paid $500 and I could easily sell it for 15-1800, but its TOO clean haha.
All the best with your inferior gas engines ;)
yeah yeah yeah, gas engines :-[
Since I was off work since Feb 14th. I needed to sell this. Dipping into our savings account a little to deeply.