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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Bugsy_malone 666 on March 02, 2013, 08:59:28 am
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Can anyone tell me what size socket I need for an injector on a 1.6 idi diesel?
I thought oh piece of cake I'll whip them out today and found I dont have a socket of the right sort of dimension.
So any idea what I need? yet another one off tool I suspect!
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the one i have for 1.6 injectors is a snap-on 27mm deep socket (1/2 drive;may be special and/or extra deep).only problem is the snap-on are a little expensive to say the least.
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I have a set of Harbor Fright metric, deep impact sockets with 1/2 inch breaker bar to do the work. Some sockets are thicker walled and may not get on between the head and the injector. I think 12 point sockets work best as the may be thinner walled.
Search the forum seems we had this discussion someplace once or twice already. Search for 27 mm or 27 mm socket.
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6 or 12 pt should be ok. The wobble style extension can get past the IPs with the aneroid.
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21BrwLt4khL._SL500_AA300_.jpg)
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27mm interchanges with 1-1/16". I have a Craftsman I got from Sears. More recently I copped it and welded in a section of appropriately sized cast pipe to deal with the taller AAZ injectors.
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Make sure that you're careful when removing the injectors as you can crack the head.
I was told to position the breaker bar at 3 oclock then loosen - that way you're transferring the force upward & into the top and thicker part of the cyl. head. ( vs 9 oclock and force gets transfered into the lower and thinner part of the head)
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It's best to use a socket designed specifically for removing the injectors. You run the risk of bending/damaging the return nipples on the injector if you use a standard deep socket. The sockets specifically designed for removing the injectors have more space up inside so as not to hit the nipples.
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That's another advantage to the welded in piece of pipe I added. It leaves plenty of room for the hose barbs.
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Well that confirms what I was thinking have had a look on ebay and found some 27mm deep sockets with a cut out window specifically for injectors.
I think getting them out its going a right pain in the arse! as mines in a camper with the engine at 50degrees, not a vanagon either, a baywindow without an inspection hatch!
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I have a "Kobalt" 27mm deep socket 12-pt that works well for me (clears the nipples) that I got from Lowes.
part number is - 22312
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It's best to use a socket designed specifically for removing the injectors. You run the risk of bending/damaging the return nipples on the injector if you use a standard deep socket. The sockets specifically designed for removing the injectors have more space up inside so as not to hit the nipples.
Haha he said nipples
Yup i was gonna say dont bend yer t****es on the injectors with a normal socket. You can take a dremel and grind clearance in the normal socket. Ive done that and i have a snap on socket also. I havent used either in so long but i think i didnt prefer the snap on for a retorque because its 1/2 inch drive and the tq wrench i got for the range is 3/8 so i gotta hunt up an adapter. No biggie just be aware you may need a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter
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deep 27mm craftsmen socket.
all of $10
Fits the injector perfectly, no mods. Have yet to bend a nipple.
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Hmph my craftsman was the one i had to grind on
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well I ordered a windowed 27mm deep socket on fleabay, funnily it says for ford, bmw and fiat, doesnt list vw lol!
Lets hope its up to the job!
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I have a "Kobalt" 27mm deep socket 12-pt that works well for me (clears the nipples) that I got from Lowes.
part number is - 22312
I have a Kobalt 1-1/16 deep 12 point socket from Lowes and it fits all the injectors and clears the nipples no problem. Got it about 2 years ago on clearance for $0.77 or some ridiculously cheap price.
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I am hate to even say it but, really truly, I put a 27 mm craftsmen deep impact socket on the end of a 1/2" impact gun for both removal and installation. Torque them the same as I do a wheel; run it down and 2 bumps of the trigger after.. Probably 100-120 ft/lbs.
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I am hate to even say it but, really truly, I put a 27 mm craftsmen deep impact socket on the end of a 1/2" impact gun for both removal and installation. Torque them the same as I do a wheel; run it down and 2 bumps of the trigger after.. Probably 100-120 ft/lbs.
100- 120 ft /lbs on injectors with an impact gun? You like to live dangerously? :o
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He just hasn't seen the head fracture when he is doing it that way yet. I do them by hand and still had the injector boss let go. Could have been weakened by the PO however. Got to watch that towards the head pressure.
What is stock torque? Like 90 ft lbs?
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What is stock torque? Like 90 ft lbs?
Try 52 ft.lbs ...........
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I am hate to even say it but, really truly, I put a 27 mm craftsmen deep impact socket on the end of a 1/2" impact gun for both removal and installation. Torque them the same as I do a wheel; run it down and 2 bumps of the trigger after.. Probably 100-120 ft/lbs.
100- 120 ft /lbs on injectors with an impact gun? You like to live dangerously? :o
probably slightly more dangerous than me using my $10 harbor freight torque wrench to measure the recommended 52ft/lbs... :-\
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I am hate to even say it but, really truly, I put a 27 mm craftsmen deep impact socket on the end of a 1/2" impact gun for both removal and installation. Torque them the same as I do a wheel; run it down and 2 bumps of the trigger after.. Probably 100-120 ft/lbs.
100- 120 ft /lbs on injectors with an impact gun? You like to live dangerously? :o
If you think your HF torque wrench is that far off, you can do a rough calibration with a 10 lb weight and a 5 ft pipe and set the torque wrench to 50 ft lbs and see if it clicks.
probably slightly more dangerous than me using my $10 harbor freight torque wrench to measure the recommended 52ft/lbs... :-
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After torquing to 52,and having a few fall back out, and then reading about the breaking point of the boss area, I decided that it was the worker, and that the impact gun would not out as much erroneous pressure in strange directions.
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I think I use that same socket, it works if you keep it straight and level. I've tweaked a couple hose fittings before I learned to be careful.
I always meant to slot the sides of it but never remember till I need it.
Never broke anything else, no air gun though. :)
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My HF torque wrench was within 1% of the Snap on one till it launched it's head through the woods.
Haven't had the new one tested as it just sits in the box in case I break my nice one.
How do the injectors all out? the crush on the heat shield should lock them in place. I've never seen it, always use clean threads and anti'seize.
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The Lowes Kobalt 1-1/16 12 point deep socket has a lot of wiggle room for the nipples. Still, I usually put a short piece pf 1/8 hose on the nipples to protect them from getting nicked.
I also have a 27 mm 6 point deep impact socket. It fits all the injectors except one by the IP. Can't rememember if it's #1 or #2, where I have to undo something on the IP to get the impact socket on the injector. The Lowes Kobalt 1-1/16 12 point deep socket does not have this problem.
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Well they came out ok, I didnt torque them back in, more like did them up tight sparkplug style.
one of my main issues was getting to number 2 injector and I wish I had one of those wobble drive extensions as previously mentioned.
one of my injectors looked a bit wet, like it could be a dribbler, my spare set looked pretty dam clean, shame it runs like a bag of bolts! Back to the drawing board!
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If you don't tighten them enough to bend the heat shields , you will have trouble.
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You can feel when the heatshields compress... it doesn't take much torque. "Sparkplug-tight" is about how I do my injectors (rarely with a torque-wrench). Copper anti-seize on the threads works a treat.
Slipping the IP & pulley back a tooth can make the injectors and GPs easier to deal with.