VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
For Sale/Looking For => Parts for Sale/Wanted => Topic started by: Jagerauto on March 01, 2013, 03:51:49 pm
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I'm going to pick up a complete motor. I'm not sure of its condition. I paying a pretty penny for it. I want the turbo setup off it. But I was going to pull the whole thing because I know someone wants it and I don't want to see it crushed.
My bad its a 1.6td
Going in the morning!
Get a hold of me if you want the long block. 757-541-7377
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/02/uhy8amy9.jpg)
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Update!
109k miles!!!
Turns over great!!
I have not tried to start it, missing a lot of parts when I pulled it. Transmission did not spin freely. This was in a quantum so it had the weird transmission.
I will do a compression test on the block. And a leak down test. But seeing as it has 109k.. I'm betting that is all good.
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Thanks for the post jager. Unfortunately I don't have the funds.
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If all is well with the long block.. $450
I'm still deciding on the turbo setup. It's a t3. The setup has me intrigued as to the turbo location and the direction of the intake boot. Could pose for a nice rain tray filter setup!
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/03/nujypy5y.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/03/tasa3ebe.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/03/u8ugares.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/03/nevy2a5e.jpg)
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Oh weird, I don't recall ever seeing a 1.6TD with EGR before!!
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It was an 85 quantum.
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You never know... I just pulled the head off a 1.6TD that had a documented 70,000 miles since new. All four pre-cups were significantly cracked and the two middle cylinders both had cracks from the exhaust valve to the pre-chambers. The bores were also worn beyond the wear limit. $450 is a decent price for a 1.6TD longblock core, tho.
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PM sent...
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It's a mechanical lifter motor, not hydraulic.
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You never know... I just pulled the head off a 1.6TD that had a documented 70,000 miles since new. All four pre-cups were significantly cracked and the two middle cylinders both had cracks from the exhaust valve to the pre-chambers. The bores were also worn beyond the wear limit. $450 is a decent price for a 1.6TD longblock core, tho.
They all crack between the valves. I just had a head rebuilt and it still has the cracks. Repairing them is a waste Of time.
Pre chambers are cracked because of leaky injectors. So yea that could happen on anything.
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Between valves yes, but he said from valve to precup, HUGE difference. Repairing the between valve cracks isn't always a waste of time, but most times it is as the cracks are not into the realm of bad.
450.00 is a great price for a long block as he said. The turbo as a core and all the little pieces that go with the block add up to tons of money if they are not there, so I think 450 is great. Seems like unless you are in Canada there are not many 1.6 for sale anymore. Not like it used to be.
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Ah yea.. I was thinking in Between the valves.
Now $450 is for the long block no manifolds or turbo or pump.
I say $450 but that's with added haggle room, so bottom dollar $400.
Again I will do a compression test. I already have a regular flywheel and pressure plate on its way so I can bolt up an 020 and starter and crank this thing to see if it will run. Bucket of diesel and a hose in the head and see if it will run.
If not, I'll as an electric fuel pump. And I still nothing I will check timing. I doubt timing is off but you never know.
And if nothing works, compression test.
If compression is good then it's good to go an we'll put the blame on the pump or other reasons.
I'm going to use the T3 on my AAZ, and with this manifold it puts the turbo lower and the intake points right toward the rai tray so the air will come from the cooler rain tray. Making for a bigger turbo, in a more efficient place, and a more efficient place to put the air filter. Win,win, win haha
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Not to mention the exhaust mani on this won't work on any 020 trans mk1/mk2.. Where the downpipe would bolt up the shift linkage would be in the way. But on my truck I'm running an 02j so I should be fine! I'm excited! Hah
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This is a 12mm engine correct?
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This is a 12mm engine correct?
Based on it being a Turbo Diesel then yes it should be, I will pull valve cover to verify.
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Interested, PM sent.
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Well I can't get it I turn over with a starter.
Anyways.. I guess that means I can't get a good compression test on it. So off with the head to inspect. Then I can flip her over and inspect the case/rods.
Keep posted!
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Well I pulled head... No crack anywhere in the head!!! Cylinders look great! Bottom end spins very well.
I took plenty of pics (kinda dirty but judging by the clean parts, it will clean up nicely)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/05/dehyqa2a.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/05/usuzabun.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/05/ra3anuma.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/05/5avupyga.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/05/3emyvega.jpg)
I took pics of it before I cleaned it, so you guys don't think I cleaned it to cover anything up ;)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/05/uhysejy6.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/05/bu9atyte.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/05/abu9a5em.jpg)
After some intense bristle disc action.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/05/du4yvuhe.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/05/a3u7aza9.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/05/uvuzyjat.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/05/qydyba8a.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/05/dejy5aby.jpg)
The block
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/05/dujajyvy.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/05/y3a7ama2.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/05/udavuve7.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/05/a7ajyba9.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/05/pe5uhuga.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/05/dejeha7y.jpg)
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What is the part number on the head?.
Are there any kind of a stamp on the precups (they might have been smoothed off)?
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That thing looks low miles inside! :P
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I am confident that the 109k on the odo is correct. $400 is a steal. Sounds like Cambo is getting this one.
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/05/uvuzyjat.jpg)
It looks like a small crack on the right side of that pre-cup opening. I would also feel concerned about the abrading technique.
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What technique? I your talking of how I cleaned it... I used a bristle disc. It is a hard rubber an did not remove any metal. Trust me I'm not stupid enough to take a grinding wheel or wire wheel to it. Haha.
I'll get a better pic of that precup I'm pretty sure it's not a crack.
I will be delivering this to camboscams later this week so lets say "PENDING SALE" ;)
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I do have this that would go awesome as a spare!
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/06/e4ebe2ur.jpg)
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The green 3M bristle brushes definitely will remove aluminum and to a lesser extent will remove steel as well.
What looks like a small crack in that pic may just be an abrasion mark.
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I'm sure if you sit there and hit the same spot it would.. But I've used it plenty of times. No problems. I hit it long enough to take the nastiness off and that's it.
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/05/uvuzyjat.jpg)
It looks like a small crack on the right side of that pre-cup opening. I would also feel concerned about the abrading technique.
Lucky for me i have unlimited access to a surface grinder at work, so surface scratches are not a problem.
As for the crack in the pre-cup has there ever been any cases of that causing any problems?
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Yes, any cracks in the precup are a big problem - probably the biggest problem faced with the IDI engines. They can grow very quickly and once the prechamber is cracked through it will hammer into the piston destroying both the piston and head. Sometimes the pieces will fall into the cylinder destroying the rod and block as well.
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Yes, any cracks in the precup are a big problem - probably the biggest problem faced with the IDI engines. They can grow very quickly and once the prechamber is cracked through it will hammer into the piston destroying both the piston and head. Sometimes the pieces will fall into the cylinder destroying the rod and block as well.
I'm okay with what you have said here, so does anyone know where to get new pre-cups?
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You will probably want the pre-cups made for turbo diesel engines. They have a triangle stamped in them, facing the cylinder bore.
Check the search function...someone found some online a while back...or maybe they were for an NA?
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Yes, any cracks in the precup are a big problem - probably the biggest problem faced with the IDI engines. They can grow very quickly and once the prechamber is cracked through it will hammer into the piston destroying both the piston and head. Sometimes the pieces will fall into the cylinder destroying the rod and block as well.
YEP
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I took a closer look. The one in question is hard to tell if its a crack, looks more like a scratch.. But I'm not positive. It does not appear to have a gap like a crack would. On #4 pre cup there does appear to be a super dooper small crack.
Leaky injectors cause them to crack. At least that's what I was told. Call Frank Irving he should be able to tell you where to find them, as they are something he deals with on a regular basis. He knows where to get AAZ ones as well. I would think they would all be the same.. But I guess not?
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I took a closer look. The one in question is hard to tell if its a crack, looks more like a scratch.. But I'm not positive. It does not appear to have a gap like a crack would. On #4 pre cup there does appear to be a super dooper small crack.
Leaky injectors cause them to crack. At least that's what I was told. Call Frank Irving he should be able to tell you where to find them, as they are something he deals with on a regular basis. He knows where to get AAZ ones as well. I would think they would all be the same.. But I guess not?
Frank Irving? Could you elaborate?
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Frank Irving? Could you elaborate?
Google Franks TDi's
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Up
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Frank Irving? Could you elaborate?
Google Franks TDi's
I personally have googled that like crazy but I can't seem to find any sort of business or anything. Got an actual link?
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Phone number 417 232 4634
He does not have a website, old school guy.