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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: 92EcoDiesel Jetta on January 23, 2013, 01:57:10 pm
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This started last week. When I let out the clutch in 1st gear from a standstill, I can feel a very slight slip and then I can hear a clunk. Once I'm in 2nd gear and above, I don't feel or hear the slip/clunk anymore. If I let the clutch out slowly (1st gear from standstill), I can (most of the time) prevent the slip/clunk from happening.
Is this something in the clutch or could it be something else? THe car has about 210k with probably the original clutch.
Anyway to gauge how much time I have before a failure that will leave me stranded (unable to shift)? I am hoping it holds up till spring when it's warmer so I can deal with it.
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Sounds like either your clutches' sprung hub getting loose or the pressure plate not applying evenly. That is just if you have a single mass flywheel; dual-mass is a whole other can of worms.
Happening in my bus right now but WAY WORSE; thing sounds like the engine falls out every time I let the clutch out. My advice: sink that $250-300 on a good clutch kit and set aside a nice weekend in a warm garage in the next 3 weeks.
EDIT: I assume you have checked your clutch cable freeplay as well as the integrity of your motor mounts.
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motor mount
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motor mount
Definitely the rear trans mount.
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They took my answer so:
I'm betting loose axle bolts or loose lug bolts.
With loose lug bolts you hear it when you stop too,.. or so I've heard ::)
... and with axle bolts you don't usually notice until the car stops and you try to move but don't go anywhere.
but I'm still guessing they could somehow make that noise.
Whaduyawant, they took my answer...
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Thanks for the suggestions, I will check them all out, except the clutch. How does a motor mount or rear tranny mount make that clunk and especially the "slip". Please describe the mechanics of it. I am hoping it's not the clutch!
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The slipping may be the engine rocking back, and the clunk is metal on metal mount on sub-frame.
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The slipping may be the engine rocking back, and the clunk is metal on metal mount on sub-frame.
Have you had this happen to you? I'll check it out.
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Yes I have lol.
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Sounds like either your clutches' sprung hub getting loose or the pressure plate not applying evenly. That is just if you have a single mass flywheel; dual-mass is a whole other can of worms.
Happening in my bus right now but WAY WORSE; thing sounds like the engine falls out every time I let the clutch out. My advice: sink that $250-300 on a good clutch kit and set aside a nice weekend in a warm garage in the next 3 weeks.
EDIT: I assume you have checked your clutch cable freeplay as well as the integrity of your motor mounts.
the last clutch i changed, the center was about gone.. had ALOT of play. it sounded like a bag of hammers any time the clutch was out..
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Yes I have lol.
All the 8 mm XZN bolts on the axle shafts are tight, as well as all lug nuts. How do you check the rear tranny mount (the one under the coolant globe)? It's kind hidden in the metal cup. Have to check my records but I think I replaced that mount when I did the ACN tranny install this past summer. I'd be pissed if it was replaced only lasted less than 8k miles. Probably Meyle crap.
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If its toastered ypu should be able to grab the intake and rock the engine easily forward or backward. Because of its far back location it takes most of the rocking force.
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If its toastered ypu should be able to grab the intake and rock the engine easily forward or backward. Because of its far back location it takes most of the rocking force.
I did that and the engine didn't move much. Maybe I didn't rock it hard enough. Will try again tomorrow. I did replace the tranny mount with a Optimal brand hydraulic made in Germany supposedly (from German auto parts) last summer. I'll check the other mounts too. I have a USB borescope. If I can rig it up to the laptop (I can aim it at the mounts look for movement. The borescope cable is only 6 ft long and not long enough unless I go through the firewall. Not sure if it will still work if I add a USB extension cable.
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how to check mounts.........
open hood...
sit arss in seat start up...
foot on brake.. let out on clutch in 1st gear... engine move lots.. feel the float you been feeling at light?
rear mounts only clunk in reverse... same test just in reverse
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rear mounts only clunk in reverse... same test just in reverse
Good test, but I have had a bad mount clunk going forward as well.
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how to check mounts.........
open hood...
sit arss in seat start up...
foot on brake.. let out on clutch in 1st gear... engine move lots.. feel the float you been feeling at light?
rear mounts only clunk in reverse... same test just in reverse
I'll try this out tomorrow. Thanks!
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i rebroke my custom set up on way to san fran.. i knew it was going to.. gotta redesign m y front set up.. but i did tow car all way hone no issue.. and when mine breaks it hits rad... so gental and life good..
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how to check mounts.........
open hood...
sit arss in seat start up...
foot on brake.. let out on clutch in 1st gear... engine move lots.. feel the float you been feeling at light?
rear mounts only clunk in reverse... same test just in reverse
I'll try this out tomorrow. Thanks!
I tried your test but did not feel or heard the same slip or clunk. I didn't try very hard for fear of breaking something. I could feel the engine torqueing though.
What next? I may still rig up the borescope and look at the mounts and do your test again.
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If the clutch didn't make the effect with the brake on, or you didn't notice large movements by the engine in the bay, I'd start looking at final-drive, suspension and brake components.
One test I'd try, is jacking up the front wheels and repeating the test (without the brakes applied).
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better yet is on a stand, and while wheel is turning always have some one in the car to take out of gear or shut off if anything.then you are free and can look around for the problem.
210k is a lot, a clutch should last 300k, but 210k can mean changing it.
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That is one cool tool. A bore scope. What diameter tubes can you go down. .223", .308", .50"? My internet is through a 6' USB cable, I wish I had more.
I did that and the engine didn't move much. Maybe I didn't rock it hard enough. Will try again tomorrow. I did replace the tranny mount with a Optimal brand hydraulic made in Germany supposedly (from German auto parts) last summer. I'll check the other mounts too. I have a USB borescope. If I can rig it up to the laptop (I can aim it at the mounts look for movement. The borescope cable is only 6 ft long and not long enough unless I go through the firewall. Not sure if it will still work if I add a USB extension cable.
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motor mount
Definitely the rear trans mount.
Forgot to update this thread. Problem was the 2 bottom bolts (17 and 13 mm) on the front motor mount was missing! Maybe I didn't torque them down well enough when I did the AVX to ACN swap and they fell off eventually? Put in new bolts and problem fixed. Glad it wasn't the clutch!
Does going forward and applying torque lift the front of the engine up? If so, it explains the clunk when the engine drops (metal against metal). What causes the slip that I felt in the clutch before the clunk? Is it due to the lost forward motion when the front engine mount is lifted off the subframe?
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Forgot to update this thread. Problem was the 2 bottom bolts (17 and 13 mm) on the front motor mount was missing! Maybe I didn't torque them down well enough when I did the AVX to ACN swap and they fell off eventually? Put in new bolts and problem fixed. Glad it wasn't the clutch!
Does going forward and applying torque lift the front of the engine up? If so, it explains the clunk when the engine drops (metal against metal). What causes the slip that I felt in the clutch before the clunk? Is it due to the lost forward motion when the front engine mount is lifted off the subframe?
Bingo.
I definitely could feel something like a "slip" with my broken front motor mount. I just replaced mine last weekend. In my case my engine was tilting backwards enough to hit my downpipe against the firewall. When I checked things out it was actually lifting the front of the engine at least 8". I had to jack the engine up about 4" to get the new proper mount in place as it was sitting way low with the broken one.