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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: london96td on January 13, 2013, 09:01:37 am
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Hello all, I'm sorry if this question has been asked but my tablet is not allowing me to search. I recently decided to "pimp my glow plugs". I was aware 2 of the glow plugs are hard to get at but didn't think that hard. I told a friend who is a mechanic and he said the injectors may have to be removed.
I have a few questions. Do the injectors have to be removed or the lines. If the metal lines then can just the 2 going to the 2 injectors behind the pump be removed? Also is there any major steps or can they just be unscrewed? I was also told there's a shield thing between injectors and motor so does this have to be replaced?
All I want to do is do the glow plugs basically so can the metal lines be removed and replaced without any issue?. So the less steps and expense the better. Thank you very much
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Just very difficult
I bought a set of gear wrench at sears
About $100
It has what they call x beam shape
Flex on end with ratcheting box
The 8mm barely
I mean barely reaches the nut
With your hand wedged between head and ip
Unscrew it with out dropping the nut
More difficult to re install
More difficult is the plug replacement
I think it was 12 mm
Again the x beam ratchet end is best fit I found
And re installing is some what more difficult
Because you have to hold the nut or plug while starting it
When you re in stall the nut on the plug cut the crimp terminal as instructed to make easier to pull the wire in the future
Took me about 2 hrs to swap plugs and connect wires
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Could I just remove the injector lines and replace them when done? Is there a washer or anything between the lines and injector/pump or is it a straight take it off.. change plug and put lines back?
I would get the box wrenches but 100 is a bit out of budget at the moment.
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when using gear wrenches on torqued things dont initially loosen or final torque w/these wrenches, use a solid box wrench to start/finish
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Removing an injector opens a new can of worms. You will need to get a flare wrench to loosen the fittings. You will need new 1/8" injection fuel return lines, you will need a new injector heat shield, which may or may not come out.
You cannot re-use an injector heat shield without major grief down the road.
Your rubber fuel lines may or may not survive being removed, replace anyways, they are cheap.
Your injector may be stuck in the hole. If you put too much torque on it the wrong way, you will damage your head.
If you are due for a timing belt change, have a shop do the plugs. They will be disturbing the timing anyways, I cannot imagine it being that much more for them to remove the pump, change the plugs, then prime, purge and start the car.
The tools to set timing really are not that expensive, once you have done it once, its really not as bad or intimidating as the book makes it sound. If it has been a while since the last belt (about 60K) then I personally would do a new belt, remove the pump, do the glow plugs in 5 minutes instead of 2 hours, and have new plugs and timing belt all in the same job.
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Removing an injector opens a new can of worms. You will need to get a flare wrench to loosen the fittings. You will need new 1/8" injection fuel return lines, you will need a new injector heat shield, which may or may not come out.
You cannot re-use an injector heat shield without major grief down the road.
Your rubber fuel lines may or may not survive being removed, replace anyways, they are cheap.
Your injector may be stuck in the hole. If you put too much torque on it the wrong way, you will damage your head.
If you are due for a timing belt change, have a shop do the plugs. They will be disturbing the timing anyways, I cannot imagine it being that much more for them to remove the pump, change the plugs, then prime, purge and start the car.
The tools to set timing really are not that expensive, once you have done it once, its really not as bad or intimidating as the book makes it sound. If it has been a while since the last belt (about 60K) then I personally would do a new belt, remove the pump, do the glow plugs in 5 minutes instead of 2 hours, and have new plugs and timing belt all in the same job.
So is this the normal procedure? I was under the impression that the plugs could be changed by removing the metal lines only. Could someone please clarify? Thanks
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Let's pretend you said the engine was a 1.6.
It's easier to remove all the injector lines than just a couple. Undo the fittings and lift out the set of lines which are held together by the looms/brackets.
The 8mm flex-head gearwrench is really helpful, so is the magnetic retrieval tool.
Loosen the GP nut and get it most the way off, then carefully unthread the nut, keeping the magnetic tool stuck on the nut; because otherwise you will drop it into the black-hole of wtf-did-it-go.
Then do a similar procedure with the GP (if you're changing it)... loosen it most of the way, then keep the mag-tool on it while getting it unthreaded. Carefully, slowly lift the GP out, like it's a nuclear detonator. Replace in the same fashion... easy peasy.
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Let's pretend you said the engine was a 1.6.
It's easier to remove all the injector lines than just a couple. Undo the fittings and lift out the set of lines which are held together by the looms/brackets.
The 8mm flex-head gearwrench is really helpful, so is the magnetic retrieval tool.
Loosen the GP nut and get it most the way off, then carefully unthread the nut, keeping the magnetic tool stuck on the nut; because otherwise you will drop it into the black-hole of wtf-did-it-go.
Then do a similar procedure with the GP (if you're changing it)... loosen it most of the way, then keep the mag-tool on it while getting it unthreaded. Carefully, slowly lift the GP out, like it's a nuclear detonator. Replace in the same fashion... easy peasy.
Thank you. So is there a special procedure for removing the lines? Or replacing them? Does anything need to be changed on the lines once they are removed or do they go back on without any new parts?
The engine is a 1.9td
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Thank you. So is there a special procedure for removing the lines? Or replacing them? Does anything need to be changed on the lines once they are removed or do they go back on without any new parts? The engine is a 1.9td
The lines take a 17mm wrench (a line-wrench and an open-end wrench are suggested).
Put a paper towel under the end of the IP to catch the bit of fuel that will run out of the lines. Fuel will deteriorate the hoses if left to permeate the rubber.
The lines come off easily, but you want to keep the line ends very clean. Cover the open injector tops with aluminum foil or whatever (oil resistant) to keep dirt/dust out.
When replacing the lines, I place the lines onto the tops of the injectors and seat each flare into each injector and get the nut finger tight. Then I do the same at the IP... seat a flare into the delivery valve and get the nut finger tight, one by one.
The lines may need some minimal flexing to get the flares seated squarely in the fittings, but it is important they are seated into the sockets properly.
When all the lines are seated, then tighten with the wrenches. It takes a bit of flipping wrenches around to snug the fittings, but that's why the wrench ends are at angles... turn a bit until you bump into a line, flip the wrench, turn a bit more, flip the wrench... turn a bit more, flip the wrench...turn a bit more, flip the wrench...turn a bit more, flip the wrench...
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Awesome thanks. So once the lines are off the rest should be easy? Just remove the 8mm nuts then use a 12 km for the plugs? I went ahead and cut out the bus bar so maybe I could just remove the plugs without taking off the 8mm nuts?
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If you can still get a wrench on the body of the GP, I rekon that should work.
It takes a steady hand to pilot the GPs back into the holes using a magnetic tool, but go slow and remember that if it came out, it can go back in.
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London calling; If you still have the bus bar on the GP you will have to use an opened wrench on them and I would opt for a box end. Take the time to remove the 8 mm nut, washer and piece of bus bar. This is not a hard operation but one that is more tedious than others. Like it was said, drop any part down from that place and it disappears in to well, you never can be sure. 8 mm nuts have been found after much searching on the edge of the engine where the oil pan goes. I have one of those super magnets out of a hard drive that I put on the screw driver and use that to hold the nut as I thread them on.
Definitely remove the lines as a set. But after getting the flares to mate with the body of the injector I would only get them on finger tight then back them off a half a turn. Tyler made it sound like you should tighten them but He knows different. You are going to need them loose to be able to determine when fuel gets up to the injectors. Go ahead a put the tight on the line nuts at the head of the IP. Once you fill the lines, noted by a bit of fuel spurting up from one or two, tighten all and hit the glows and crank. The initial filling of the lines might take a couple of 15 second crankings. Try once, check, let starter cool for a minute and crank again 15 seconds. Check for fuel, or have a helper with a big voice tell you to "Shut it off!, Shut it off!" Cloth handy to dab fuel from nuts at injector. Why be a messy mechanic. That is for TheMan and CRSMP45.
You are not going to have to remove the injectors. Which is good. Most of what was said in this thread is discounted heavily by most of us in this forum. You have to remove them and install them by turning the wrench towards the head or risk breaking an injector boss. That can cost you a head. I have one dead one to prove that. Getting the injectors out takes a 27 mm socket that is not thick walled as there are two of them that are tight to the coolant bulge area in the middle. Heat shields can be used again and again. You just have to know how to reform them so they touch the injector tip area again. Lots of talk on here about that. I do it all the time, so do many others. Some injectors are badly set in place, again penetrating oil, pre-planning and knowing what to do and not do is critical. I recently pulled some injectors out of head and they looked like they were glued in with old diesel or WVO. The heat shields needed much work to get out but a self threading screw worked to get a tight grip on it. That one got thrown away after removal. Most lift right out for me with a pair of needle nosed pliers. I put the tip in the hole and pull the handles apart and slowly, love that nuclear reactor analogy, bring them out to the left hand.
Best of luck.
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The heat shields ... Most lift right out for me with a pair of needle nosed pliars.
Magnetic tool good for heat-shields too, if they're not coked-in.
I only look for fuel at the injector lines if I suspect the IP isn't priming. Otherwise, I just put on the lines, draw fuel through the IP with the mighty-vac and crank... 30 sec and they light-off.
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heat shields can be used again are you sure?? know for a 1.6 they are 1 time use, dont forget to use brake clean when reassembling hard lines, and have clean paper towels for lines to sit on while out of car, dont forget anti-seize on gp threads
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heat shields can be used again are you sure?? know for a 1.6 they are 1 time use, dont forget to use brake clean when reassembling hard lines, and have clean paper towels for lines to sit on while out of car, dont forget anti-seize on gp threads
Yes, they can. It has been documented, one member has used a set up to 8 times.
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They can be re-formed and re-used... I do it. I also have a dozen or more new, if I'm in a hurry.
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Definitely remove the lines as a set. But after getting the flares to mate with the body of the injector I would only get them on finger tight then back them off a half a turn. Tyler made it sound like you should tighten them but He knows different. You are going to need them loose to be able to determine when fuel gets up to the injectors. Go ahead a put the tight on the line nuts at the head of the IP. Once you fill the lines, noted by a bit of fuel spurting up from one or two, tighten all and hit the glows and crank. The initial filling of the lines might take a couple of 15 second crankings. Try once, check, let started cool for a minute and crank again 15 seconds. Check for fuel, or have a helper with a big voice tell you to "Shut it off!, Shut it off!" Cloth handy to dab fuel from nuts at injector. Why be a messy mechanic. That is for TheMan and CRSMP45.
Thank you for clearing the injector question up. So no removal is required, just the lines. I'm still not sure what you mean by not tightening up the lines after reinstalling. Can you please clarify that one part?
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Some folks like to leave the injector ends of the hardlines loose to help prime the lines.
When first cranking after the lines are off, the IP takes a few revs to push fuel through. Each pulse of fuel is about a drop, so it can take 15-30 sec to get the four lines full.
As noted, I just put em on and crank.
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Like Tyler says. He just tightens them on both ends and cranks 15-30 seconds. That is all it should take if your battery is anywhere near healthy. I like to leave them slightly loose to verify that fuel is getting to them before I "really try to start the car".
Note 2 cycles as describe by me is same as Tyler's time. I just rest the starter between 15 second cranks. Not sure if it is totally necessary, just the way I do it. Prevention for starter heat? Maybe.
As for heat shield reforming and reuse. I can't even count the number of times I have done a set and had no problems. If I think there is an issue with the overall condition of the ones I take off I pitch em and grab one of the many extras I have. All formed and ready to go.
I actually have a pair of needle nosed pliers with a spring in the handle so they sort of start the open and grab process for me. I just keep them that way with a little help so I don't drop them to the nether world.
I don't think I have ever used brake clean on the threads or the nuts. It may have cost me an injector once as I did have a wicked sound going on start up so I sourced the injector and took it apart and cleaned it again. Never heard that noise again. But I don't know what the spray pattern was after that. I also don't do anti seize on the nuts. The bodies of the injector yes but not the nuts. I don't want anything down that hole except diesel. Maybe I am just fat fingered and get that goop everywhere even when I just use as dab of it.
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i was saying anti-seize on glow plug bodies
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Sorry, misunderstood that. Yes, I do anti-seize on them as well as the injector bodies. It just gets a bunch of heat on them and boy to they get tight. Thanks for the clarification.
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the brake clean is for injector lines, ip and injector connections. at assembly time. and you dont want anything around the nuts
make sure area around these connections are clean before disassembling
and clean paper towels for injector lines to sit on while disassembled
also yes starter builds up alot of heat after 30 secs, so it needs a cool down. it will live a lot longer
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I find myself usually doing shenanigans when it is -20C out.. and usually snow on the ground. A recent cranking forever fiasco had me packing snow around my starter to keep it cool while I cranked it forever and ever. Worked damn good too, got any snow?!
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From what I gather from what you write if you aren't out in the -20C then you are never leaving the house. Cabin fever!
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I wish, not the case. I am a Marine Tech, so I am outside all day every day, from early March until early December. Most of which.. it is hotter than Satan's balls out.
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heat shields can be used again are you sure?? know for a 1.6 they are 1 time use, dont forget to use brake clean when reassembling hard lines, and have clean paper towels for lines to sit on while out of car, dont forget anti-seize on gp threads
Yes, they can. It has been documented, one member has used a set up to 8 times.
I THINK he used them more than 8 times.. i swear he has used one set OVER 10 times... could be wrong.. someone ran him off the forum because of his questionable honing techniques :(
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It's a tough gang here that's for sure.
:(
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I THINK he used them more than 8 times.. i swear he has used one set OVER 10 times... could be wrong.. someone ran him off the forum because of his questionable honing techniques :(
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heat shields can be used again are you sure?? know for a 1.6 they are 1 time use, dont forget to use brake clean when reassembling hard lines, and have clean paper towels for lines to sit on while out of car, dont forget anti-seize on gp threads
Yes, they can. It has been documented, one member has used a set up to 8 times.
I THINK he used them more than 8 times.. i swear he has used one set OVER 10 times... could be wrong.. someone ran him off the forum because of his questionable honing techniques :(
I didn't, nor did I see anyone else, run him off for his honing tech. What I did do was give him a week ban after I warned him to stop taking shots at libbydiesel for no reason other than to get a raise out of people. After the week he never came back nor was he missed as far as I know.
He is still on the hillbilly forum I think. I haven't been there in forever, but he should have pics of his pliers and the ball bearing he used to re shape them. For something that is usually only ever taken out every 60,000 miles I would spend the 1.00 or 2.00 or so each and buy them. I think of that area of the head as more fragile now that I dropped a precup and wouldn't want a non sealing heat shield to give me another bad day.
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Mark uses a pair of vice-grips, since they retain the crush amount with each repeated use. I use a motorcycle chain press.
In both cases a ball bearing is used as the driver, since it self-centers and contacts the conical surface evenly.
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I didn't think we were that tough a bunch. Just a bunch that doesn't appreciate a dis when it isn't needed to make a point. Make your point and be respectful. Like you are explaining it to your grandmother. I doubt many use the F word when doing that.
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finally did my glow plugs, just thought I would share here. I have a 1.6 NA in a Mk2 Golf and it was getting harder and harder to start lately (and it's not that cold, only 40-50F). I opted for removing the fuel lines because it seemed like that would leave a lot more room. I was able to get everything out and all the new glow plugs installed in fairly short order (minus the nuts re-installed). The left most nuts are definitely a pain to get back on behind the pump; I used a magnetized flat head screwdriver which helped a lot to hold the nuts in place and be able to spin them on. Starts right up now with 4 new bosch duraterms. ;D
Tested out my old glow plugs after I got them out, three were bad. None of them looked bad (burnt off tips) as I have seen in the forums. I had been running "Prothe" injectors for quite some time so I expected som might be that way. I'm on freshly rebuilt bosch injectors from Giles now though.
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Welll back in the day i can remember these cars as dailys. And sure enough when the weather turned colder no doubt in a month or 2 you are gonna lose one. Guaranteed. I remember pops every fall cursing at moms 81 chaingin plugs in the driveway. Anyways we learned. Itll start on 3. Smoky but it starts. It may not start with 2 out. If so u crank the crap out of it. Sometimes to get the nuts on what can be handy is a piece of safety wire with a bend on the end.
hold the wire against stud and slide the nut on. Oh and this sounds silly but test fit and lightly lube the nuts before installing the plugs. That way you wont be fighting a buggered thread in the car, or put it on a easy one. Yea 1and 2 stink.
Yes removing the lines is the easiest. Sometimes too if the planets are aligned you can just tighten the lines and itll start without priming and having them loose. Hey the injectors have fuel so does the pump.
Anyways since its just a nasty job we always just replaced them all and kept the good ones for a pinch. But a pinch stinks cause you know they will burn out next week. Ok happy plugging in your idi vw.
I was used to tdis for a little while but ive returned :)
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Bosch Duraterms were not available in the 80's. They have dual coils which makes them less likely to burn out even if left on for extended periods.
I got rid of the copper bar and nuts and made wires with quick disconnects that I can get on/off easily w long nose pliers. I also have manual glow relay to minimize on times. Three years now on the Duraterms with no burned out plugs.
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I've had good luck with duraterms as well so far. I too can remember hillfolk's experience with them back years ago. It was clockwork to replace one at least every season.
I seem to get two years or so out of a set of duraterms at least, but that's just a so-so guess still.
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I've had good luck with duraterms as well so far. I too can remember hillfolk's experience with them back years ago. It was clockwork to replace one at least every season.
I seem to get two years or so out of a set of duraterms at least, but that's just a so-so guess still.
I'm very surprised to hear you are only getting 2 years from Duraterms, especially in CA!! I've had the same glow plugs in Jezzie for 5 years now, and they weren't new when I bought her either. They all work perfectly fine...
There are a few things that can cause glow plugs to die early:
- using 'fast' non-duraterm plugs with a 'slow' relay
- having a defective relay that is keeping the plugs on way more often than they should be
- overtightening the plugs on installation
- bad injector spray
Duraterms take care of the first two points as they are self-protecting. If you are eating plugs that fast then I'd check out your installation procedure and your injectors - there really is no reason for them to be failing that quickly.
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I've had the same glow plugs in Jezzie for 5 years now.
Duraterms take care of the first two points as they are self-protecting. If you are eating plugs that fast then I'd check out your installation procedure and your injectors - there really is no reason for them to be failing that quickly.
Word.
I have a set of Duraterms that have lasted 4 cold winters up here, and have been in three different engines! (I enjoy engine swaps... lol)
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I think my Prothes were 4 years old when I replaced them with duraterms. All 6 still test good. Curiously, the Prothes show ~1000F on the pyrometer, while the Duraterms stabilize at about 580, but heat more of the tip.
Both start equally well.
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Im a religious fanatic with my torque wrench. New nozzles. Battery new/wiring ck ok. That wasn the only car. Only saw one burned tip once ever in 20+ yrs and it was in a boneyard. That wasnt the only idi vw that i knew of that liked glow plugs. My dad always got them at the dealer too.
Even the bosch ones you used to get at good foreign parts stores same thing.
Yea ok maybe 2 seasons you would get if lucky before one dying. I guess ill look for those durawhatevers next set i need
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Rockauto almost beats Prothes on price.
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The duraterms basically have internal temperature regulation, so they won't burn out. They'll heat up to a certain point and then they stabilize - basically they have a clever "resistor" in series internally that increases its resistance as the temperature of the plug increases, sort of like a variable thermostat. Bosch has a patent on it so none of the other plugs on the market have that feature.
Bosch also sells "regular" plugs, so just looking for the Bosch name doesn't actually guarantee you are getting duraterms.
http://www.boschautoparts.com/dieselparts/pages/glowplugs.aspx
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I think my Prothes were 4 years old when I replaced them with duraterms. All 6 still test good. Curiously, the Prothes show ~1000F on the pyrometer, while the Duraterms stabilize at about 580, but heat more of the tip.
Both start equally well.
You're lucky the Prothe glow plugs lasted 4 years without dropping a tip and wreck your engine. How were you measuring glow plug temp. From what I remember reading, a glow plug tip goes much higher than 1000 F, more like 2500 F. (don't quote me on that)
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After years of using audio analysis of fingertip sizzling sounds, I got a laser that figures it out for me. Seems pretty accurate, except dry ice goes off the scale around -45F
IIRC it was the ...008 PN from Rockauto got me glows in duraterm boxes at least.
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After years of using audio analysis of fingertip sizzling sounds, I got a laser that figures it out for me. Seems pretty accurate, except dry ice goes off the scale around -45F
IIRC it was the ...008 PN from Rockauto got me glows in duraterm boxes at least.
You may want to check your laser (didn't know laser is used to measure temp).
1120 C (max temp of the Duraterm) is 2048 F
(http://www.boschautoparts.com/DieselParts/PublishingImages/DuratermTechChartLg.jpg)
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I think he means IR laser; those can measure temperature w/ the right equipment.
Nice Duraterm graph. Didn't know that's how they worked.
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I after-glow my duraterms for up to three minutes in my AAZ and 1.6 TD, both manual setups. (weather dependent)
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I think he means IR laser; those can measure temperature w/ the right equipment.
Nice Duraterm graph. Didn't know that's how they worked.
IR thermometer? Never heard it called an IR laser. The laser is used for aiming, not for temperature measurement. IR thermometers are known to be inaccurate against light colored objects (such as raw aluminum or a hot glow plug tip) and more accurate on black objects.
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Nice theory, but duraterms don't glow that bright.
Even if it were out of spec at 3%, I'd still show 997 instead of 1000. If you point it at a light bulb, it is a bit funny aobut how many layers of glass it's going through.
They are probably graphing the calculated temp of the nichrome? wire inside the casing.
You can easily see that the tip of the duraterm plug is not as hot as the regular one.
The inconel shell would be malleable if it were getting that hot
Heat Treatment The alloy is not hardened or strengthened by heat treatment.
Forging Forging should be done in the temperature range of 2250 F to 1900 F.
Hot Working Hot work in the range of 2250 F to 1600 F. Avoid working in the range of 1400 F to 1000 F as the alloy is apt to thermal crack in that region.
Cold Working Cold forming may be done using standard tooling although plain carbon tool steels are not recommended for forming as they tend to produce galling. Soft die materials (bronze, zinc alloys, etc.) minimize galling and produce good finishes, but die life is somewhat short. For long production runs the alloy tool steels ( D-2, D-3) and high-speed steels (T-1, M-2, M-10) give good results especially if hard chromium plated to reduce galling. Tooling should be such as to allow for liberal clearances and radii. Heavy duty lubricants should be used to minimize galling in all forming operations. Bending of sheet or plate through 180 degrees is generally limited to a bend radius of 1 T for material up to 1/8" thick and 2 T for material thicker than 1/8".
Annealing Annealing following cold working may be necessary. The annealing temperature is 2100 F and the alloy should be rapidly cooled through the range of 1400 to 1000 F to avoid thermal cracking.
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If you want to measure glow plug temp, don't use an IR thermometer. A type K thermal-couple will be a lot more accurate.
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I've had good luck with duraterms as well so far. I too can remember hillfolk's experience with them back years ago. It was clockwork to replace one at least every season.
I seem to get two years or so out of a set of duraterms at least, but that's just a so-so guess still.
I'm very surprised to hear you are only getting 2 years from Duraterms, especially in CA!! I've had the same glow plugs in Jezzie for 5 years now, and they weren't new when I bought her either. They all work perfectly fine...
There are a few things that can cause glow plugs to die early:
- using 'fast' non-duraterm plugs with a 'slow' relay
- having a defective relay that is keeping the plugs on way more often than they should be
- overtightening the plugs on installation
- bad injector spray
Duraterms take care of the first two points as they are self-protecting. If you are eating plugs that fast then I'd check out your installation procedure and your injectors - there really is no reason for them to be failing that quickly.
It's just a guess, and I've only been in CA since June. When I say "set" I mean one of the four I bought and installed died, so I replace them all.
I lost a duraterm after one season on the last set I put in the 81 back east, and I can think of at least one more that's died.
Course it is the original GP relay with 600K and change on it, with the stock wiring, and it's worked fine since 84 or so when Pop bought the thing in Oklahoma.
So it might be getting a little worn. I'll never know, left it to a friend back east when I moved like a dumbass. Overall I'd call the glowplug system troublefree
to be honest, I've never had much grief out of em. Coldest place I've spent many winters was Oklahoma, but still. Replace GP's in the fall if one dies.
It takes twenty minutes and cost less than a lot of less healthy things. I can't remember what's in the 82 now.
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If you want to measure glow plug temp, don't use an IR thermometer. A type K thermal-couple will be a lot more accurate.
I already did, and have no further interest in doing so. Out of curiosity, how do you propose to attach the K-probe, and which part of the glow plug will you atatch it to?
The needle on my K type gauge is wider than the discrepancy between the readings at 1200F.
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[quote author=745 turbogreasel, ............ Out of curiosity, how do you propose to attach the K-probe, and which part of the glow plug will you atatch it to?
The needle on my K type gauge is wider than the discrepancy between the readings at 1200F.
[/quote]
By contact, to the tip of the glow plug. I have a low mass type k probe for my dvm. I estimate it is accurate to +/- 5 F.
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Measuring at the tip may fool you, as the old style heats the tip much hotter than the duraterm which may actually put out more heat by heating evenly all the way to the root.
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Ive been running diesel rx glow plugs since i found out about them for my 7.3 pos ford. All I can say is they are amazing. American made and there supposed to be able to constantly glow. I've been running them on my 7.3 for a couple years with a manual push button and i just recently put them on my 1.6td during the engine swap. You can get them on ebay. I just wish they would make them for my 2.2 perkins ranger, those things are 40 dollars a plug and they suck.
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DUDE get me one of those Perkins flame thrower glow plug intake thingeees i always wanted to see one in open air. Ah the ol Gerkins engines. I messed around with a few mainly the 4.236s but those r common :)