VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
General Information => Troubleshooting => Topic started by: A Guy on February 28, 2006, 12:20:16 pm
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With this "lovely" weather we've had lately the little miser(91 1.6 N/A golf) just doesn't want to go. Another thread said oil was a big issue if you're running 15w-40 - I am. I've been trying to find 5w-40 in a semi synthetic I found one place- quite deer to say the least. My dad and I talked about it and his opinion was I should just go to full synthetic. I like the cost and durability of my conventional Motomaster 15w 40. If I go to Full synthetic I can't go back and it'll be expensive. Anyone know of a semi that's at least 5w 40 or 0w 40?????????. Is this the right thought process? I can "go back" from Semi-syn. right??? :?:
out.
Greg
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You can use semi-synthetic,or full synthetic,and switch back and forth if you wish.
Canadian tire carries Castrol Syntec in 5W40 for around $35 a 4 litre jug.You will probably need 5 litres.So either buy an extra litre,or an extra jug.It makes a big difference in the cold temperatures.The Syntec 5W40 is VW and diesel approved.
I've been running this stuff for a while,both summer and winter,and it will easily go 10-12000 Km between changes based on oil change analysis.I buy 3-4 litre jugs,and 4 good filters.Change it,and use 5 litres.After 6000 Km,or 3 months,I change the filter only,and use another litre to top off what was lost in the dirty filter.After 12000 Km,or 6 months,I change the oil and filter again,using 5 more litres.You will now have 1 litre and one filter left to be changed at the next 6000 Km interval.So for $180 for oil and filters,your good for 24000 Km or one year.Not a bad price,works out to $45 every 3 months,and it starts and runs better year round.Good for 1-2 MPG too.
You can also get Wal-mart brand 15W40 Semi-synthetic for $13 a 4 litre jug,which seem to flow better than reg 15W40 dino oil in the colder weather.Cheaper,but not quite as good as the Syntec.It will not go as long between changes,5-6000 Km max.
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I've never heard the thing about not switching back and forth either...
I just got 4 quarts of Delo 5W40 full synthetic for US$27 -- compared to about $8 for a gallon of regular Delo 15W40. You could make your own semi-synthetic by mixing half and half 15W40 and synthetic 5W40. I do this in my gas engines (mixing 20W50 and synthetic 5W50)
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Or, get 4 quarts of Rotella T Synthetic 5W40 (it's a Group III oil, though), for $14 at Wal-Mart. Best Group III you can buy, and MORE than enough protection for an NA diesel.
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See this contradicts what I've been told about full synthetic. It is my understanding that you can go from dino oil to synthetic but you can't go back. Something to do with seals breaking down if you go back to dino. I do in the area of 100 K/year. :shock:
I'm self employeed - cost is always an issue. This golf has been a saviour in that regard. That being said It's hard to make money when your mode of transport won't start. 8)
I end up changing my oil/filter every 4 weeks depending on my schedule.
Is a full synthetic going to be that much better than a semi? I realise I'll get more K's before swaping the oil but it looks like the filter change interval stays about the same.
Further replies are much appreciated.
out.
Greg
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Also, what about blowing oil. I've put in "the fix" to get me to warmer temps. I am catching the oil so I'm doing my best to keep my environmental impact to a minimum. If I go to 5-40 won't I blow more oil?
Thanks
Greg
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I swear by synthetic, starts easier in all temps and lasts longer between changes. The trade off is because it lubricates better it leeks better too, so you need good gaskets and seals.
at minus 15-18 C and below plug it in, it is better for everything
I have mine on a timer it only needs 2-3 hours to warm up before you need to go in the morning.
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Blowing oil? "the fix" ?
Please tell more :?
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I suspect that "the fix" is an engine oil additive.
Quit using it, it's doing more harm than good.
Now, for your oil weight, you're in a bind here.
VW recommends 10W30 in your conditions. The problem is, that'll make the blowby problem WORSE, not better. However, 10W30 dino's gonna be cheaper than 5W40 synth, and you're gonna blow it by anyway.
I'd suggest reringing the thing, though. Can anyone provide a guide on doing this? The ep0niks Bentley is unclear.
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This is what I'm afraid of I can't afford to blow more oil. I was able to start the car this morning as a result of the warmer weather. I'll probably stick with 15w-40 'till I do the rebuild and switch for next winter.
There is a really good post here. Basically I routed the breather from the top of the valve cover to the side(about 1/3 from the top) of some ABS plastic piping (2"Diameter, I beleive). Then I ran a line out ot the side (about 2" from the top of the pipe back to the intake. The pipe is 2/3 -3/4 full of steel wool. Both the top and bottom of the pipe are capped. You should put a bleeder valve at the bottom of the pipe to drain the oil. I let mine sit in a dog food can so the oil doesn't go everywhere. This eliminated my "runaway" issue. I plan to do a rebuild in the coming future. It made the car much more drivable on the highway.
I'll see if I can find the post
out.
Greg
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This is the post
http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=1853
This is where I got the idea. It works for me.
http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=1086
Out.
Greg
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Your starting problem are probably due to low compression.
Skip spending money on oil and additives,and get a used\rebuilt motor,or rebuild yours.
I can get you a good deal on a rebuilt,or used motor if you need one.
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wyldman,
I don't use additives.
I was planning on getting mine rebuilt. I'm interested in your statement, as I won't mind rebuilding mine myself. It's one of the things I've never done and I expect I'll be doing deisel for much longer.
PM me. :)
Out!
Greg
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Buy a used 1.6L for a good core,then rebuild it yourself.It will probably just need the crank polished,and rod bearings and rings.Honing the cylinders is usually all that's required.Head will probably need a full rebuild.
You can build the core motor,then swap it in.Rebuild your old motor and resell to recoup your $$$.
I have a few good running used motors,which shouldn't need much to rebuild.
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yo,dont use syntec blend,,i tried it in one of my ol 1.6 diesels,,,it started sludging up,,,,,after a week,for whatever reasoni had the v/c off,and there was black cheesy lookin stuff stuck to the vc,,still felt like oil,but didnt lookright,,,,,,and this engine was clean before this change of oil,,,,,,,,,byebye syntec blend,,glad ihad a filter and rotella,,,,,,,
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I've used amsoil for many years {100%synth} in my diesels and gassers, and they work great, lower pour point, better thermal transfer and shear. The only bad thing about synth oil is if you don't have any oil leaks now, you will after you start using synthetic oils, I can gurrantee it. It's more fluid than dino oil and will find any "leaky" spot in the motor. so unless you want to do a gasket change, avoid it. But if you want to do the pan and valve cover gaskets I highly recommend them. The initial cost is around $50 to to convert to full synth. then about half that at each change, with the added benifit of an extended change interval. I change the oil on the golf about every 25k or once a year, which ever comes first, which for me is just shy of once a year. You can use the synth, just get one designed for a diesel, and you won't have a slidge problem, and remember, just because it says "full synthetic" doesn't mean it's 100% synthetic, according to the standards, as long as it contains a certain percentage of synthetic oil, they can call it "full synthetic, which is what mobil one is, a "full synthetic" . boils down to getting all the info you can, and using it to your advantage.
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ive never personally seen any oil leak caused by switching to synthetic,,,usually the problem oil leak was there before,,and more noticible now,especially if its a thinner weight you switched to,,,,
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Exactly my point, you may not notice a very minor leak in an older engine, that is until you switch to a 100% synth oil, I've seen it dozens of times. the lubricity of synth is such that it will find its way out. On a tight engine, you won't have any troubles. I've been using amsoil since about 1984, got my fist batch of it from a buddy in the air force, they used it for the jet engines in the fighters, I figurede what the heck, if it would work for that, why not in my car, of course at that point you could get it for cars, I just didn't know it. My wifes subaru has the same amsoil in it that I put in it in 1999, minus the oil samples I've sent in to the company every 6 months. 110000 miles without an oil change, not to shabby if you ask me. Granted I do replace the 2 ounces of oil I send in for the sample, so I suppose the oil has actually been changed over the years, but you get my point. No matter what oil, use the best you can afford, made for the application at hand, as for my diesel, nothing but rottela.
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I have used shell rotella in my 86 n/a jetta since it's 500 mile change and it now has 300k without incident.
My 04 pd tdi golf has had mobil1 extended since the first change. I know I am supposed to use 505.01 but I put 120k on it in 2 years and my camshaft is fine.Not endorsing you to do this, just sharing.
I purchased a pristine 89 bmw 525i with 40k and switched it to mobil1 and it leaked like a sieve.I replaced the pan gasket, front and rear mains and assorted other gaskets to solve it's issues. I think it was just a dried out older car which had minimal care.
My POS ranger had 120k when I bought it and was a sludge monster. I switched to synthetic and it cleaned it up after a few changes and does not leak at all.
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ajt3nc: You might want to go to a GTG, and get someone to take pics under your valve cover (on the PD).
And post in this thread: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=129373