VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: scrounger on December 16, 2012, 09:08:37 am
-
The transmission linkage on my Jetta is getting progressively sloppier. I have about 3-4" of for and aft movement in the lever once it is in any gear and only about 3/4" of side to side.
Reverse is now wanting to pop out so I hold it in, backing up. The ball at the shifter is all wallowed out. I have lubricated the linkage by adding some spray lube. That helps with effort but not sloppiness of course.
Do I replace the linkage parts from underneath or just reaching over the top? Looks like a long reach from above. I have seen some kits with spherical rod ends instead of bushings. Are they worth it?
Thanks for any link or help.
-
Relay shifter ball
-
Several years ago I went through all the linkage points & even fabbed up a few of my own pieces. Some of the key parts I got from Missing linkz. Got good adjust-ability & shifts like butta. Can't even imagine going back to the old shifting. The down side is you got to get in & do it, especially if you don't have a nice cozy place to work. The up side it you learn a lot along the way. You might even bead blast all the parts, repaint/powder coat, lube(obviously) & maybe even fab some sort of protection for some of the parts to keep them from elements & wear.
-
what car?
if its mk2 it is kind of a bastard because now is the time for you to just replace everything. lots of options out there from stock parts to aftermarket expensive adjustable stuff.
definitely look up a schematic before you buy the parts to make sure you get everything. some kits aren't actually complete. there is a bushing assembly at the shifter box itself to replace that isn't in some kits for some reason and I think its pricey.
for me I had to jack my jetta up in the air to get my fatt butt moving around ok. had to move the exhaust tunnel heat shield and do allot of coercing to get the shifter box/rod out.
once you replace all the parts just make sure whatever ball you go with fits just snug enough in its cage so things can move. don't know why but I have come across more than one car with this cage wollowed out. its real easy to get back into shape just lightly smack with a hammer until you like the fit.
I just did my rabbits linkage and it was way easier :)
-
Yeah sometimes I drive the car and say the shifting makes it a bit of a bastard.
It is my 86.
what car?
if its mk2 it is kind of a bastard because now is the time for you to just replace everything. lots of options out there from stock parts to aftermarket expensive adjustable stuff.
definitely look up a schematic before you buy the parts to make sure you get everything. some kits aren't actually complete. there is a bushing assembly at the shifter box itself to replace that isn't in some kits for some reason and I think its pricey.
for me I had to jack my jetta up in the air to get my fatt butt moving around ok. had to move the exhaust tunnel heat shield and do allot of coercing to get the shifter box/rod out.
once you replace all the parts just make sure whatever ball you go with fits just snug enough in its cage so things can move. don't know why but I have come across more than one car with this cage wollowed out. its real easy to get back into shape just lightly smack with a hammer until you like the fit.
I just did my rabbits linkage and it was way easier :)
-
I have a thread on it over in the upgrades sections. I have the best feeling mk2 shift linkage iver ever felt. An mk3 weighted shift rod is a must.
-
I really appreciate the advice on the part. I didn't happen to have one handy,
If I had a ball, I would have just fit it back on the stock arm.
I scrounged around and found that I had a chunk of 1" square steel tubing. It fit pretty tightly over the old worn ball. It helped but still had about 2" of fore and aft play. I looked around and found some 1.25" pvc electric conduit so I decided to reshape it to fit over the square tubing and to fit snugly in the shifter arm. I had used shoe goo adhesive to hold the parts together. I really like it. It's tuff and durable.
The "ball" now is 1.25" thick.
At any rate my shifter now is pretty good. It has about an inch of play in any gear. I don't have to hold the shifter in reverse any more.
I think I will look around for a roller bearing with a 1.25" OD.
(http://veloliner.com/vw/shifterrelayarm.JPG)
-
Been driving the car with the homemade transfer ball. Seems to work a ton better. I was having trouble keeping it in reverse and was slipping out of 3rd. All is well now.
I have about 3/4-1" of side play when in gear and about 1 1/2 -1 3/4 of front to back play. Not truly precise but decent.
-
check out missinglinkz.com and this for the bushings http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Golf-Jetta-Cabrio-MK3-MK2-SHIFTER-BUSHING-KIT-white-delrin-4-pc-set-/290667323627
-
Hi
Thanks for the link. I have found that the transfer shaft fits on the stock bushings pretty snug. I think most of the play is in the shifter ball at the bottom of the shift lever and also the bushing a few inches in front of the ball. It is all wallered out.
I haven't quite figured out how to get the spring clamps off of the turbo flange. Actually off wouldn't be as bad as putting them back on.
-
Hi
Thanks for the link. I have found that the transfer shaft fits on the stock bushings pretty snug. I think most of the play is in the shifter ball at the bottom of the shift lever and also the bushing a few inches in front of the ball. It is all wallered out.
I haven't quite figured out how to get the spring clamps off of the turbo flange. Actually off wouldn't be as bad as putting them back on.
Take one with you to local auto store and you can get appropriate exhaust clamp. Then you place it and just slowly and equally turn the bolts just to the point you can get them started in their grooves on the exhaust pieces.
Also I made the mistake of buying some aftermarket parts and bent them too easily. All the original vw parts that I have laying around I have been able to use that method multiple times and they still snug the exhaust up nicely :)
It will save you some annoying time getting them off if you use a crowbar or something to wedge and pry one side at a time :) Wear safety glasses though. For whatever reason mine always have shot at underneath the car, but you never know.
-
Hi
Thanks for the link. I have found that the transfer shaft fits on the stock bushings pretty snug. I think most of the play is in the shifter ball at the bottom of the shift lever and also the bushing a few inches in front of the ball. It is all wallered out.
I haven't quite figured out how to get the spring clamps off of the turbo flange. Actually off wouldn't be as bad as putting them back on.
Take one with you to local auto store and you can get appropriate exhaust clamp. Then you place it and just slowly and equally turn the bolts just to the point you can get them started in their grooves on the exhaust pieces.
Also I made the mistake of buying some aftermarket parts and bent them too easily. All the original vw parts that I have laying around I have been able to use that method multiple times and they still snug the exhaust up nicely :)
It will save you some annoying time getting them off if you use a crowbar or something to wedge and pry one side at a time :) Wear safety glasses though. For whatever reason mine always have shot at underneath the car, but you never know.
ive had those clamps put DENTS in my firewall before.. they are angry little springs.
-
One of these helps immensely in shift feel as well. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5166573-FS-Weighted-shift-rod-for-MK2-amp-Mk3 You can get them for 2 dollars at the junk yard.
-
also makes your shifter bushings last about HALF as long...
-
they are angry little springs.
True dat.... I rekon they could easily break a finger if they hit u right, coming off.
The muffler clamp really is about as good as the official tool. (I have both.)
-
they are angry little springs.
True dat.... I rekon they could easily break a finger if they hit u right, coming off.
The muffler clamp really is about as good as the official tool. (I have both.)
amazing the force those things will exert, isnt it?!
must be a pretty amazing alloy, to be able to stand up to that kinda heat and vibration!
-
The clamps that I have seen are wedges, I think. I would like to make a spring expander with a screw thread. I don't like pounding on strong springs. It goes against my sensibilities.
Ror20 what kind of clamp are you talking about?
-
The clamps that I have seen are wedges, I think. I would like to make a spring expander with a screw thread. I don't like pounding on strong springs. It goes against my sensibilities.
Ror20 what kind of clamp are you talking about?
the spring clamps used to hold the exhaust system to the downpipe/manifold..
-
(http://img57.imageshack.us/img57/3751/exhaustspringclipexhaustclampt.jpg)
image ctsy "cubevandude"
-
Thanks for the pic.
-
I meant clamp expanders not clamps.. My proof reader didn't catch that. :)
The clamps that I have seen are wedges, I think. I would like to make a spring expander with a screw thread. I don't like pounding on strong springs. It goes against my sensibilities.
Ror20 what kind of clamp are you talking about?
the spring clamps used to hold the exhaust system to the downpipe/manifold..
-
I used the USRT kit and it is awesome. Makes my crapbox actually fun to drive.
GENIUSPACK2 Master Kit
http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_34&products_id=1763
-
I bet it helped. What size spherical rods do they use? I am thinking of using similar parts on the shifterleg itself. Something like this:
(http://veloliner.com/vw/shifterrebuilddrawing.JPG)
-
Both of the spherical rod ends would be just threaded on so they could rotate on the studs. Just grease them and thread them on to near bottomed out. They only need to be able to rotate 20-30 degrees. I have a homemade trailer that I have have used on my dirt bike (and bicycle) that uses a 3/8" SRE on a bolt. Have hauled 2-300 pounds with off road. I could make the arm going up to the control rod about any length that I want to make a short throw shifter.
-
I worked on the gear shift bearings. I thought that I could do it with two nuts welded at right angles to each-other. The corresponding bolts then could be welded to the gear shift lever and the other to a plate to bolt onto the floorboard.
Here is a short video of the action. Smooth and tight. I am using 7/16" bolts and nuts. A bit of grease on the threads would keep it tight for long time. Much better than the plastic ball. I don't think I need the reverse lockout.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yPJNPR4AS0w (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yPJNPR4AS0w)
-
can anyone view the video? It doesn't work and I have uploaded it twice.
-
can anyone view the video? It doesn't work and I have uploaded it twice.
I could. I didn't listen to it, but I viewed it.
-
Am on a cell phone internet. Perhaps our Amish neighbors are firing up theirs.