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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: ORCoaster on November 12, 2012, 08:44:57 pm
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Does a 1.8 8V exhaust fit on a 1.6 NA diesel? Seems like all these exhausts are about the same. I got a line on an entire system, 4 into on header, exhaust pipes, cat and muffler from an MK1 Cabriolet. Will it go on the Rabbit. Big price reduction and in new shape.
Let me know so I can buy for Christmas or let it pass to another. Thanks.
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I think it will fit just fine. I put a 4-into-2 manifold and then 2-into-1 downpipe on my 1.5D no problem. I think the thing you might have to worry about is if it hits the shifter linkage. I can't say for sure where the hanger locations are on a cabriolet, but I'd image they're the same as your car.
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The Pictures the seller has lead me to believe there will be no trouble. I plan to take a spare exhaust mani over to be sure that part fits. I thought the Cabrio routed down the same side as my Rabbit. Passengerside underneath. right side of linkage. Will be nice to have 2 inch flow if it does fit.
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unless its a NICE header, its gonna hit your steering rack...
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And if you look at the used header where the rack would be when installed, if it's nice and shiny or covered in surface rust (depending how long it's been off the car for) you'll know if it will hit or not.
Both are built on the A1 chassis. It will fit.
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And if you look at the used header where the rack would be when installed, if it's nice and shiny or covered in surface rust (depending how long it's been off the car for) you'll know if it will hit or not.
Both are built on the A1 chassis. It will fit.
thats a great way to tell if it hits or not... provided both cars have the same motor mount adjustment..
the car i got my header off of, was a gasser, and it never hit..
then i put it on a 1.6D car, and it hit the rack every time i wanted reverse, or coasted in gear..
they dont always hit..
mk1 4dr gas, fits fine..
mk1 4dr diesel, hits the rack..
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OK, I bought it tonight. Even gave me the exhaust gaskets and nuts to hold the header on. Brand spank me new. Seller said about 500 miles on it. I also got the bracket that goes from the header to the side of the transmission. So maybe it will clear linkage just fine.
It came with a high flow cat on it. Question is; do I install as is or just section it out with a couple of flanges on a short pipe? Not sure what effect the soot in the diesel will have on the cat itself. I could possibly sell it here if I don't need it on there.
What the verdict? Install as is or, remove and replace with straight pipe?
Also got a windshield for 50 so I can quit worrying about the crack going up the middle now.
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DO NOT INSTALL A CAT ON YOUR DIESEL!!!
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Well that is a pretty plain answer. Thanks Kev
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Well that is a pretty plain answer. Thanks Kev
you're welcome <3
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But don't the big arse Fords and Dodges have them on their engines? Are they not needed on our weenie 4 bangers? Do they plug up so bad they defeat the bigger pipe diameter flow?
Explanation please. I just can't brain on this tonight.
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But don't the big arse Fords and Dodges have them on their engines? Are they not needed on our weenie 4 bangers? Do they plug up so bad they defeat the bigger pipe diameter flow?
Explanation please. I just can't brain on this tonight.
the newer ford/cummins/GM trucks have diesel particulate filters, not catalytic converters..
they are basically a cat for diesel exhaust..
the gas cat will clog with soot in no time.. it will also restrict flow.. there is no such thing as a cat that DOES NOT restrict flow to some degree..
WHY do you want to install a cat on your diesel?
the only VW IDIs to get a cat, was the ecodiesel.. and it clogged with soot as well..
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the only VW IDIs to get a cat, was the ecodiesel.. and it clogged with soot as well..
And AAZs in Canada. Like Kev said, don't do it.
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(http://www.siliconeintakes.com/images/product/cat_allflow_picture.jpg)
If you have laws that state you have to have a cat, I recommend this one ;D ;)
It is a NON cat, but looks like it and doesn't restrict flow like the ones ROR is talking about. Plus it makes me LOL
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Guys, I don't need a Cat on my car. I know that. It is just that the header, exhaust system, muffler, tailpipe combo I picked up across town was from a gasser and IT had the CAT. I wasn't sure it would prevent flow but I have been set straight on that. Particulate Filters? Odd they still refer to them as Cats.
So My take on this is get a piece of pipe to span the distance and let er rip? Or do a resonator to defeat the highway drone noise? Most all miles are highway for me.
More Opinons welcome.
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(http://www.siliconeintakes.com/images/product/cat_allflow_picture.jpg)
If you have laws that state you have to have a cat, I recommend this one ;D ;)
It is a NON cat, but looks like it and doesn't restrict flow like the ones ROR is talking about. Plus it makes me LOL
makes me LOL too...
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DAS,
If the exhaust is sealed like it should be and exits from under the car then you should have no drone. The tail pipe needs to be out from under the car though, or the exhaust noises get trapped and reverberate.
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I THOUGHT I had to have a cat for emissions testing here. Turns out it wasn't actually needed per the regulations but like they're going to spell that out in writing.
DEFINITE difference in noise and peak power compared to without the cat.
Also enough of a difference in smell though that proves the cat is definitely doing something. So take that as it may be.
Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2
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If the car is a turbo then I would put pipe in the span, if it is N/A I would spend for a good muffler of some kind.
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I think a few pictures would be helpful here but I am going to go with the span pipe if I can get it as it does have a new muffler with it. Whole system is only 500 miles old.
This is the system as I got it. Header, flange, Cat and First Exhaust pipe. Unbuttoned and no gaskets here now.
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j475/Orcoaster/Header%20Exhaust/CatDelete1.jpg
My Idea to delete it was to get a section of pipe that fits inside the existing flanges and pinch it tight with some long threaded rod. I don't have a welder.
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j475/Orcoaster/Header%20Exhaust/CatDelete10.jpg
So that is what I did and with a bit of hacksaw work I got the pipe the size I needed and cut the 3 foot rod into equal sections and hammered the pipe inside the first flange and it pretty much slides into the first exhaust. Shouldn't leak. Might need welding if it does. Have to pay for that and take pipe off to do it.
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j475/Orcoaster/Header%20Exhaust/CatDelete4.jpg
The overall look
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j475/Orcoaster/Header%20Exhaust/CatDelete3.jpg
Odd thing is that when the guy had it on the Cabrio. He ended up T boning a 3/4 ton PU and took most of it at the axle of the truck. So the Exhaust came off for me to buy. On the way home with the parts as I was nearly home and was moving up to n intersection and this car starts to cut me off making a left hand turn. They suddenly notice people in the cross walk that are in the way so where do they have to go? Back into their own lane out of the intersection. But to do so they are headed right at me. Time to get Skinny little VW. Hard on the brakes to the right a bit but not enough to run over Peds frantically moving now. Avoided all that and the telephone pole at the end of the intersection.
I hope that removes the curse on this thing. But now my brakes are in need of adjustment or bleeding. Just not where I think they need to be. Oh, it never ends.
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if for a 84.5+ cabby all the hangers wrong for bunny.... yep i back... goin thru pics......
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if for a 84.5+ cabby all the hangers wrong for bunny.... yep i back... goin thru pics......
Bout damn time!
And on-topic, glad to hear you didn't die and all. Hope the header works for you; was wondering about one myself before the block cracked.
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Too much rain to get the old one off and new on. I did get the brace that goes from the header bottom to the transmission and may have to do something with the middle hanger but overall I think this is going to work.
For ever the optimist eh?
CRSMP5 we are waiting on them there pics of this rig of yours. Maybe in new thread by now I just haven't looked.
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only travel pics for now per say... im going to put the bathtub up on lift for some pics this week.. pull the scrap gasser, rip tranny apart for rev gear parts.. do some scrappin... its a odd duckling.. interesting frame set up... thinking of using as a copy, do a little wider.. add some say b3 or mk3 vr6 front stuff... aka make wider and such.. then a new aluminum box built on one.. on bags.. lower.. areo dynamic so 25mpg not seen so often at 80+mph...
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On my Fiat NA I made 2 SS mufflers tube is SS 1.8 or 2 mm,nothing big deal tube in and tube out.
For 10 yr no salt can do anything,perhaps 5% more noise.
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cut the flanges off the cat
scrap the cat
take the 2 cat flanges
weld pipe/resonator between flanges..
you are welcome :)
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Found out the the cat was about 4 inches short of the total length I needed to get the tube around the corner down by the fuel tank. Slipped in another adapter and seems to be about right.
I would have whacked the flanges and did what you suggested but I think this cat might be of value to someone else and if so I could recoup some of the cost of this system by selling it. So I kept the flanges on. Maybe I should have cut them off the pipes instead and slipped in a straight pipe. No, the header flange/adjustment doughnut has one of the flanges on it.
It is a pain not owning a welder for stuff like this. Might just swing it in to a local shop and ask what they would charge to tack and weld the one pipe. Three loose connections on it.
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I'd weld that for you in trade for the cat. i bet somebody on Craigslist would too.
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Found out the the cat was about 4 inches short of the total length I needed to get the tube around the corner down by the fuel tank. Slipped in another adapter and seems to be about right.
I would have whacked the flanges and did what you suggested but I think this cat might be of value to someone else and if so I could recoup some of the cost of this system by selling it. So I kept the flanges on. Maybe I should have cut them off the pipes instead and slipped in a straight pipe. No, the header flange/adjustment doughnut has one of the flanges on it.
It is a pain not owning a welder for stuff like this. Might just swing it in to a local shop and ask what they would charge to tack and weld the one pipe. Three loose connections on it.
too bad i wasnt closer..
i have a GUTTED cat that has those flanges on it..
technically you only need ONE flange.. the rear one..
you can cut the rear flange off the header adapter, and weld a pipe onto the adapter..
then weld the other end of the pipe to the exhaust system, or weld the flange to it and bolt it up..
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Having the gutted cat would have been tempting but it still would have left me a few inches short. There isn't much wiggle room for a larger than stock pipe down the side of the linkage, around the corner to the fuel tank and up over the rear brace. Thanks for the offer.
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Another question is how long it will take the diesel to crack that header to pieces. I'm lead to believe from a number of people over the years that it's "not long".
I'd trade a gasser guy for a dual outlet factory exh manifold and downpipe, or at least put in a flex section and rig a brace to the block for the header.
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WolfW... or at least put in a flex section and rig a brace to the block for the header.
Well this system has a brace that goes from the bottom of the two tube section to the transmission. SO I think it is going to take the vibration from the diesel OK. It also has a spring loaded clamping flange at the end of the header that buttons up to the rest of the exhaust. So some flex is in the system. Will the diesel destroy it? Not at this point in time. Engine is Out of Commission until further testing and work and the axle on the drivers side needs to be reinstalled. Not a very productive week of repairs this time out.
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WolfW... or at least put in a flex section and rig a brace to the block for the header.
Well this system has a brace that goes from the bottom of the two tube section to the transmission. SO I think it is going to take the vibration from the diesel OK. It also has a spring loaded clamping flange at the end of the header that buttons up to the rest of the exhaust. So some flex is in the system. Will the diesel destroy it? Not at this point in time. Engine is Out of Commission until further testing and work and the axle on the drivers side needs to be reinstalled. Not a very productive week of repairs this time out.
get it to where you can drive it, even if its loud.
drive it to me, ill make it work perfect.. make it look semi OEM even...
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Ear plugs and time would be all I need.
Thanks for the offer but I think one weld of a straight pipe on the flange that allows me to insert the same pipe into a flared end plus a clamp it what I need to do here. I can't align the flange very well and have it welded elsewhere so having the ability to turn the flange is necessary. Welding the whole pipe could be done post clamping. I could even take if off the car to do so. So maybe that will be the deal with the shop I find to do the work.
If I bring the car up the coast, you might just tack a spot on the shifter mechanism while under there just to see how I figure out the problem.
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clamps leak unless you use the ones VW used to hold the cats on the rest of the exhaust..
u-bolt clamps SUCK..
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Use v band connectors & solve ALL your exhaust problems. The extra money is worth it. All sizes can be purchased on ebay, so you can choose what diameter exhaust you want.
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Don't that sound dangerous? Like VHF Band or something. Have to look into them first I have heard of them. Shows you how often I do exhaust repairs.
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v-band... sweet tits arss sweet bastards... but man no reach round, kiss or lube... i got mine fron amazon.. solid machines stainless, 30ish each... and 30 in shipping...
ive been seeing crushed steel poor quality ones pop up.. these are like single brake line flare... aka doubled over crushed steel.. weak/will crack...
the ones i got are machined ss rings.. hit with tig to pipe.. let the flange flow right into the pipe steel.. done... this flang will never crack.. or rust..
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clamps leak unless you use the ones VW used to hold the cats on the rest of the exhaust..
u-bolt clamps SUCK..
Leak free in ~4 seconds with the impact, or you are doing it wrong.
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Cat is getting cut out of the system. Pipes are flared on both sides of where I need to go. That is why I though I could weld one, clamp the other. Or take the pipe back to the welder once I had an exact mark for length and orientation. Clamp would be temporary, like a tac weld so the whole thing wouldn't be out of align. Know what I'm saying here? Sure you do, done it lots right? I just don't own a welder or know anyone that does.
Fishing and tree stuff yes, welder? Ahhh No.
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What I did with mine when I had to drop it for the shifter relay ball...I would do that while you are have it hanging down if it is anywhere close to needing it...is I got a 6" section or so and had the exhaust shop expand it out so it would slip entirely over the existing pipe. I only took out a piece as thick as a band saw blade. Then I slide it over the one side of pipe all the way, lifted the other pipe up to level, and slid it on and clamped it. Then when I got to a welder I buzzed it together. It didn't leak before but I wanted to be sure. Welding under there sucks.
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I have so many wonky things going on with the cat delete that the simple pipe won't work. That is what I thought I could do in the first place. Problem one- the connector from the header is of a slightly different inside and outside diameter than the exhaust pipe at the other end of the cat. So one single pipe turned into a long pipe and an adapter instead. All wobbly where it needs to be solid right?
Prob 2 flange on header/cat pipe has movable flange that would normally pinch on a rolled over part of the pipe and hold the cat in the proper position when bolted to the backside flange that is welded to the exhaust pipe. That is the needed adjustment they built into the system. But not using it means it rattles like crazy and absolutely needs to be removed or tacked in place. But being a diesel engine when would I ever need that? I don't expect to be selling this monster as I want to "use it".
Problem 3. Support of the pipe other than the connection at the header and the hanger that is way back at the muffler location. Right where that comes together is that one hanger to the side of the shifter that uses one of those rubber hanger rings. I can use it to my advantage as the rear flange, welded to the pipe is just about 3/4 of an inch away from the hanger on the body. So welding a stub on the flange will allow me to support it well, I think.
All other routing is good, not sure what this will sound like as I am taking out the resonator from the system and throwing that noise and such out the exhaust. Just have to try it and if no go then insert smaller resonator, Like that stupid cat hollowed out. Oh, can't do that as distance was 4 inches short and exhaust pipe was not in the groove making the turns by the gas tank.