VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: paolomarks on October 26, 2012, 03:44:48 pm
-
Subject says it all. thanks, Paolo
-
Nothing that clearly shows it right now, I'll grab some shots tomorrow morning for you.
I'm using a braided SS extension hose that I got from Brickwerkes in the UK and a metric coupler combined with
an original Vanagon turbodiesel turbo drain from Groschi in Germany.
I had to suspend the hose with a SS zip-tie to keep it from hanging down below the oil pan height, and maintain the slight incline
from turbo to pan.
-
Which turbo? It makes a big difference.
-
I've got the stock K03 turbo which clears the stock diesel engine mounts. Also, does it make sense to T into the original drain in the block as well as the oil pan. Thanks, Paolo
-
How bad would it be to just use the original AAZ block drain? It's above the oil pan, and only a little oil would remain in the bottom bend.
-
How bad would it be to just use the original AAZ block drain? It's above the oil pan, and only a little oil would remain in the bottom bend.
The oil would have to flow uphill to get into the block drain, basically, and at least on my T2 the drain line interfered with the motor mount.
Paolo, here's some shots of my setup; Vanagon turbodiesel drain line, and the extension hose. Very little room to spare up between the turbo and motor mount!
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6004.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSCF6001.jpg)
-
Jerry, that looks like your turbo's center section is not clocked properly. The supply and return ports of the turbo should be within 15° of vertical or bad things happen.
-
Not clocked. :P Not with those pipes, anyway... I'll need a flex supply line, and something different under here as well, it's within a few mm of the mount as it is.
-
I've done a couple K03 Vanagon installs, but both on 1.6TDs. On both I made a flange and a tube coming off it pointing at the port on the pan. That allowed PERFECT clocking. I just bent the supply to match. I've looked for pics, but haven't found one yet.
-
What advantages if any does T'ing into the block drain provide? Thanks, Paolo
-
What advantages if any does T'ing into the block drain provide? Thanks, Paolo
provides no advantages.. the oil would have to flow up hill if you used the block drain..
its BAD to make oil flow up hill out of your turbo, it makes the oil seals leak..
-
The block drain is still downhill from the turbo in a vanagon when using the AAZ exhaust manifold. Teeing into the block drain would have a benefit. Because the vanagon turbo oil return port on the pan is at below the oil level, there is some potential risk that excess crankcase pressure could push oil from the pan up the return line and past the turbo seals. Teeing to the block drain would remove that possibility.
-
The block drain is still downhill from the turbo in a vanagon when using the AAZ exhaust manifold. Teeing into the block drain would have a benefit. Because the vanagon turbo oil return port on the pan is at below the oil level, there is some potential risk that excess crankcase pressure could push oil from the pan up the return line and past the turbo seals. Teeing to the block drain would remove that possibility.
ah, gotcha!!
-
The block drain is still downhill from the turbo in a vanagon when using the AAZ exhaust manifold. Teeing into the block drain would have a benefit. Because the vanagon turbo oil return port on the pan is at below the oil level, there is some potential risk that excess crankcase pressure could push oil from the pan up the return line and past the turbo seals. Teeing to the block drain would remove that possibility.
Wouldn't crankcase pressure just push the oil back up from the block drain hole then?
-
I don't really understand your question. The block drain port is way above the oil level. If there were any oil in the line it would fall down to the pan port. Any crankcase pressure would be equal on either side of the oil in the drain line below the block port and there would not be any pool of oil in the upper part of the drain line.
-
I don't really understand your question. The block drain port is way above the oil level. If there were any oil in the line it would fall down to the pan port. Any crankcase pressure would be equal on either side of the oil in the drain line below the block port and there would not be any pool of oil in the upper part of the drain line.
Never mind. Makes sense to me how you just described it's operation.
-
I've done a couple K03 Vanagon installs, but both on 1.6TDs. On both I made a flange and a tube coming off it pointing at the port on the pan. That allowed PERFECT clocking. I just bent the supply to match. I've looked for pics, but haven't found one yet.
A drain flange would be ideal, but the T2 drain is actually threaded, there's no bolt holes for a flange, note the adapter right where the line comes out of the turbo. There is space for a flange, I'd just have to drill & tap the bolt holes.
I'm searching for my original block drain banjo right now, I want to open it back up and use it to drain the oil catch can... this thing is pumping oil out at about a quart every 40 miles. :(
-
Here is my setup which I really have no clue as to what it is besides a K03 Turbo. I have never seen the need to have the drain hose go to the oil pan since it looks all down hill to me. This photo is a little deceiving as its a little off angle and it does look like it goes up hill a tiny bit. But I assure you that it does not - what manifold and drain hose am I running? Can anyone tell from this photo?
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8473/8149237954_8ab9030b43.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/8149237954/)
OilDrain (http://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/8149237954/) by RockOcean.com (http://www.flickr.com/people/atflickr/), on Flickr
-
Here is a more accurate photo of the angle of my oil drain line:
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8044/8149361836_b5c85a83d6_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/8149361836/)
OilDrainAAZvanagonLevel (http://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/8149361836/) by RockOcean.com (http://www.flickr.com/people/atflickr/), on Flickr
-
Rockocean, I'd be less concerned about the block drain and more concerned about the angle of the drain fitting on your turbo. 15° out of vertical is the max for the drain. Yours is 35° because you didn't clock it for the vanagon installation angle. Your turbo will have a shortened life that way.
-
Here's my set-up with a K14
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-fWvJLmSK030/UGEAm0CwMfI/AAAAAAAABU0/O7Bj9SFmuGQ/s640/DSC00187.JPG?gl=US)
Took a bit of work to make a tube, weld it to the old threaded end I cut off the original straight tube and get it bent just right but it's at 6:00 with the engine at 50 degrees.
-
K03 is easier to deal with than the K14. The K03 uses a little flange instead of the thread-in fitting on the K14 and there is more room. I've made a couple vanagon K03 drains.
-
Here is my setup which I really have no clue as to what it is besides a K03 Turbo. I have never seen the need to have the drain hose go to the oil pan since it looks all down hill to me. This photo is a little deceiving as its a little off angle and it does look like it goes up hill a tiny bit. But I assure you that it does not - what manifold and drain hose am I running? Can anyone tell from this photo?
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8473/8149237954_8ab9030b43.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/8149237954/)
OilDrain (http://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/8149237954/) by RockOcean.com (http://www.flickr.com/people/atflickr/), on Flickr
Looks like stock AAZ exhaust manifold, and block drain.
You get off easy by using the aftermarket-design engine mount, plenty of room to play... this was designed to use a TDI manifold,
which hangs the turbo underneath the manifold.
-
Here's a cheap windage tray;
http://www.hansdieselparts.com/037115220BOilPanBaffle.htm
It's Prothe, but I wouldn't worry too much about a part like this. ;)
-
The block drain is still downhill from the turbo in a vanagon when using the AAZ exhaust manifold. Teeing into the block drain would have a benefit. Because the vanagon turbo oil return port on the pan is at below the oil level, there is some potential risk that excess crankcase pressure could push oil from the pan up the return line and past the turbo seals. Teeing to the block drain would remove that possibility.
Sorry to dust off an old thread but I am looking for what the subject says a picture of this oil return set up for A AAZ in a Vanagon with the K03 turbo. Anyone have one thanks!
-
The block drain is still downhill from the turbo in a vanagon when using the AAZ exhaust manifold. Teeing into the block drain would have a benefit. Because the vanagon turbo oil return port on the pan is at below the oil level, there is some potential risk that excess crankcase pressure could push oil from the pan up the return line and past the turbo seals. Teeing to the block drain would remove that possibility.
Sorry to dust off an old thread but I am looking for what the subject says a picture of this oil return set up for A AAZ in a Vanagon with the K03 turbo. Anyone have one thanks!
I believe a K14 is better suited to a Vanagon and possibly why there are more photos available with that setup. As has been mentioned though, there have been some K03's at 50 though. Sorry I can't help with a photo.
-
Here's a cheap windage tray;
http://www.hansdieselparts.com/037115220BOilPanBaffle.htm
It's Prothe, but I wouldn't worry too much about a part like this. ;)
have you seen the price of a real one?? what kind of cheap assed crap is he selling??? seriously.. is it tin foil? no way id try it on a vanagon since the pan is a motor mount.. id test it on something easy to change when it leaks...
-
Does this help?
(http://members.shaw.ca/vwdiesel/Andrew/Turbo%20oil%20return%203.JPG)
-
That is a old picture (close to 10 years ago) of one that I made. It worked but I would not recommend using copper. I didn't use that drain long enough for it to happen, but it can work harden and crack.
-
I see you've clocked the wastegate to point straight down, did you have any issues lowering the mount that far? I've got a mount built, but am wrestling with the drain and clocking the wastegate with my K14 from a 91 eco-diesel going into an 82 stock diesel Vanagon.
Will
Here's my set-up with a K14
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-fWvJLmSK030/UGEAm0CwMfI/AAAAAAAABU0/O7Bj9SFmuGQ/s640/DSC00187.JPG?gl=US)
Took a bit of work to make a tube, weld it to the old threaded end I cut off the original straight tube and get it bent just right but it's at 6:00 with the engine at 50 degrees.
-
Here's my engine mount.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-c6n4UhNpzAI/UWB29WT3ITI/AAAAAAAABnU/UKfaHOiLNSU/s512/DSC00410.JPG)
I've certainly seen better ones but in the end, it has to be designed with the drain line in mind.
As you may notice, I ended up using a banjo fitting and routing it back the other way. I simply didn't trust the pipe I had fabbed up (EDIT) besides, it hit the mount ;D. The banjo fitting was a real pain and I had to modify it a bit on the lathe - made it thinner.
Even then, the only way to tighten it is with a punch and hammer ;D. Again, there are better ways to do this as libbydiesel can point out. Actually, I think Andrews copper line would work as long as it was short - just long enough to slide a hose over it and install a clamp.
Here's a clear shot of the modified #8 banjo fitting. (https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-peuQwJyFbrY/UU3bmd3br5I/AAAAAAAABj0/_ld1FfwjiGo/s640/DSC00382.JPG)I tig welded the steel hydraulic line which came off an old backhoe. So all you need is an old backhoe.