VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
For Sale/Looking For => Parts for Sale/Wanted => Topic started by: 92EcoDiesel Jetta on October 17, 2012, 08:15:50 am
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The old mount already taken out, ready to accept a new mount. bracket alone $75. I can install a new mount if you like, bracket + mount $120. plus shipping.
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/IMG_20121016_131205.jpg)
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Someone buy this from him so he can afford a properly sized BFH for this type of work.
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Someone buy this from him so he can afford a properly sized BFH for this type of work.
Dude, what are you trying to say?
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Someone buy this from him so he can afford a properly sized BFH for this type of work.
Dude, what are you trying to say?
That hammer is too small ;)
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WAY SMALL And to top it off it is a Carpenters hammer no less. Look to buy a nice 2 lb ball peen one when you sell this up.
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WAY SMALL And to top it off it is a Carpenters hammer no less. Look to buy a nice 2 lb ball peen one when you sell this up.
That hammer was plenty big to knock out the old mount, and should be sufficient to knock in the new mount. I am not going to hit the mount directly with the hammer. A copper bar will be between mount and hammer and I will take small taps to slowly drive it in. Finesse, not brute force, a BFG will not be needed. I'll let you know how it works out.
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That hammer was plenty big to knock out the old mount, and should be sufficient to knock in the new mount. I am not going to hit the mount directly with the hammer. A copper bar will be between mount and hammer and I will take small taps to slowly drive it in. Finesse, not brute force, a BFG will not be needed. I'll let you know how it works out.
I second the finesse part but with a larger hammer the small taps do more work and the whole thing goes in much faster. When dealing with this situation and I have heated the bracket and cooled the mount in the freezer overnight time matters. The idea is to get it done ASAP and a bigger ball peen hammer would do that for you. Saves the forearm as well.
Just my method. Do not use a copper bar, wonder what that is worth these days?, but use an old bearing race as noted by another in this thread.
DAS
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That hammer was plenty big to knock out the old mount, and should be sufficient to knock in the new mount. I am not going to hit the mount directly with the hammer. A copper bar will be between mount and hammer and I will take small taps to slowly drive it in. Finesse, not brute force, a BFG will not be needed. I'll let you know how it works out.
I second the finesse part but with a larger hammer the small taps do more work and the whole thing goes in much faster. When dealing with this situation and I have heated the bracket and cooled the mount in the freezer overnight time matters. The idea is to get it done ASAP and a bigger ball peen hammer would do that for you. Saves the forearm as well.
Just my method. Do not use a copper bar, wonder what that is worth these days?, but use an old bearing race as noted by another in this thread.
DAS
I don't have an old bearing race that big but do have a copper bar 1/4" thick 1" W 6" long (high power AC buss bars that I have laying around) so I don't mushroom the mount. Sometimes you just have to make do with what you have laying around. In any case I'll let you know how it works out.
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You might be able to cut a piece of galvanized pipe off and use it instead. Just get the diameters to match for the most part and get it down to the point it is flush, pipe OD can be bigger than flange. It helps to distribute the force of the drive. Faster to tap side to side on then moving the bar around.
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My first attempt at installing the new mount into the bracket was unsuccessful. I found a bearing of a big enough size and supported the bracket with 2 cinder blocks, liberally greased both the mount and the bracket before trying to hammer the mount in. The problem I encountered was that I was not able to get the mount started straight due to the slippery grease. I ran out of time and had to stop. Next thing to try is to clean off the grease on the first 1/2" and see if I can get it started. If that doesn't work, I'll try it in a big vise.
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/IMG_20121024_135145.jpg)
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I think you can pound on that arrangement till the cows come home and never make it work. I only got success by freezing the mount and heating the bracket with a propane torch to make it expand. No grease used.
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If i remember correctly, it has been a few years. When I had to change mine I took a spare front motor mount cup bracket (the one that attaches to the front cross member) for a mk1 and placed that and the mount lightly tapped into position into the side bracket into a vise (should be roughly the same diameter) and cranked my vise and it slid in pretty nice.
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If you take a grinding stone and shave just a little along the outer edge of the mount it help to center it and then drive it with a vise, ball joint compressor or a shop press.
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try it in a big vise
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My guess is that a big vice is not available. Try beveling the front edge with a hand file of grinder then by just a bit to get it started. 45 degree bevel.
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Mount and bracket is already beveled from the factory. No grinding necessary. I think the reason I was unable to get it started was it was too slippery. I will degrease the leading edges and try again. There are many ways to do this job. I am doing it with what I have available to me. No rush since I don't need it.
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I am doing it with what I have available to me. No rush since I don't need it.
Well now there's a difference many of us don't have available to us. The Daily Driver generally needs fixed yesterday. Keep at it. It is tight but then you wouldn't really want it any other way now would you?