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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Hoble on October 16, 2012, 08:04:27 pm
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Ive done some creeping on this side but never posted anything. This isn't the forum Im overly active on. I have become die hard diesel guy over the past year and a half and am now building a rather.... interesting project. the car itself is a secret other than the fact its a mk2. the motor however, is not. 1.6 block, 1.9 head, bored (more for good fitment than for power as you cant really bore them out to much) new 1.9 head from overland, Dr diesel cam, water meth, Giles built bigger injectors, compound turbos (K03 from a 1.9 and a larger T3. 50 trim with a .48 ar) and to feed this a Giles pump tuned for 35 psi. holding it all together are ARP head studs, main studs and rod bolts. Also getting rodsten rods i believe they are called.
I am just starting this build but have the majority of the parts needed but i still have some questions.
the more people i ask about the 1.6/1.9 combo, the more different answers i get. I have a hydro 1.6 block and (ordering) a 1.9 head. Can i just slap these two together and it work fine? Ive been told i have to drill coolant hols into the block? some say i don't have to though?
I also have a few questions about the head. I shouldn't be revving this motor to high, only 6g tops, but i would like to upgrade the valves/ valve springs as i'll be running 35 psi. what do you recommend?/ where do i get it?
I want a girdle for this as well but don't know where to get one? or am i going to have to make it?
I have started looking into oil baffles as well and heard the 1Y ones are the best. whats the difference?
Thats it for now, but there will be more coming as this is my first true performance build
Thanks, Lee
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The hydro 1.6L block will except the 1.9L head when using a metal multi-layer head gasket, recommended. I drilled the coolant holes in the block to allow for even coolant transfer between the two. I guess you could leave them , but why not do it?
I'm using Tectonics Tuning HiRev dual valve springs and have yet to float a valve or hold one open.
Oil baffles. I've got a 16V oil pan windage tray in conjunction with the oil pump pickup tube baffle. Whats the 1Y baffle?
Good luck with your project.
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Ok. Do the coolant holes just go straight down into a coolant void or do they need to be angled?
The 1y is a 1.9 diesel motor. Possibly na.
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I have the CAD drawings for the girdle and the 10 main cap spacers. I had a 1/4" girdle waterjet cut last week for mine, now I am thinking of going 3/8" or thicker. PM me your email and I will send you the files. They are both in .dxf format.
Justice
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There are programs available or a good machinist should have on calculating valve springs. 35psi isn't much especially on stock diameter valves. I wouldn't think you would need any kind of upgrade there, you want your springs to close but you don't want any extra spring pressure if you do not need it...unless you don't care about extra drag on you performance. Many on here have ran stock springs up to 40psi and haven't had valve clash, so I would think you really don't even need to search for the valve spring calculator to do figuring, but if you want a for sure answer then start hunting.
Now if you were to increase the valves diameter and ran that much pressure then you have a need for springs. Or if these could spin 11k then yes an upgrade is in order.
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You have mail Hoble.
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I saw that thanks. I'm about to talk to the water jet guy at work so ill let ya know man.
As for the valve springs, I am going to be tracking the car so I figured it would be a good upgrade to have. Do they actually create more drag?
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More wear and drag on the cam. You only want as much spring as you need, this is one of the only places I have seen that you do not want overkill
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The heads valve springs are good for more RPM's than the pump will be able to spin. I see no reason to upgrade the valve springs.
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ok fair deal. saves me from taking apart a brand new head, minus the cam swap. as of noon today i dropped the block off to get bored out and the crank to drop some of that extra weight.
on the same note as the cam, i was thinking of doinf a lightweight flywheel, although ive heard its a bad idea on a diesel. makes them sound like death at idle. any input? (im running a hydro tranny. possibly a 6 speed vr)
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If it will be a Gasser flywheel, it will likely be lighter stock than a diesel one.
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i mean like running a ten pound flywheel. a "G60" setup
(http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/images/K7003802.ELWG60.jpg)
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IIRC anything under 8lbs is the starting of where the diesel has rough idle.
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Alright perfect. Back to the head to block. If I do drill holes then do they go into coolant passages or do I have to angle them or what?
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ok fair deal. saves me from taking apart a brand new head, minus the cam swap. as of noon today i dropped the block off to get bored out and the crank to drop some of that extra weight.
on the same note as the cam, i was thinking of doinf a lightweight flywheel, although ive heard its a bad idea on a diesel. makes them sound like death at idle. any input? (im running a hydro tranny. possibly a 6 speed vr)
VR trans has the wrong bell housing for a TDI...
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i have a g60 flywheel on my 1.9td and idle sounds normal so that would work ok.
i did it because i have a tdi gearbox
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VR trans has the wrong bell housing for a TDI...
I know. i have 4 different 4 cylinder trannys kicking around, all you do is swap the bell housings and your golden
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VR trans has the wrong bell housing for a TDI...
I know. i have 4 different 4 cylinder trannys kicking around, all you do is swap the bell housings and your golden
you cant swap the bell housing, as it is part of the trans case...
you can take the VR guts and dump them in a 4 banger trans case tho...
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VR trans has the wrong bell housing for a TDI...
I know. i have 4 different 4 cylinder trannys kicking around, all you do is swap the bell housings and your golden
you cant swap the bell housing, as it is part of the trans case...
you can take the VR guts and dump them in a 4 banger trans case tho...
Actually you can swap them. It's rather simple. And if its all one piece then how would you take out the diff? Take a look at your trans and you'll see the seam and bolts holding it together.
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The Bellhousing is part of the tranny ........... unbolt, guts fall out!
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i believe you can swap the "bellhousing" from vr6 to the 4 cylinder style, but its not simple like many other cars because like others have said the bellhousing is also half the case.
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i believe you can swap the "bellhousing" from vr6 to the 4 cylinder style, but its not simple like many other cars because like others have said the bellhousing is also half the case.
thats what i been saying...
its not just "swap the bellhousing"
its "swap half the trans case"
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i believe you can swap the "bellhousing" from vr6 to the 4 cylinder style, but its not simple like many other cars because like others have said the bellhousing is also half the case.
thats what i been saying...
its not just "swap the bellhousing"
its "swap half the trans case"
Ok it read like you meant you have to swap both sides of the trans which I didn't think was true
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The Bellhousing is part of the tranny ........... unbolt, guts fall out!
Yes you are correct but you make it sound a lot harder than it actually is. I know people who have done 6 speed vr to a 1.8t. its not that hard if you have any mechanical experience. Pay attention to what you are doing and be care and your fine.
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i believe you can swap the "bellhousing" from vr6 to the 4 cylinder style, but its not simple like many other cars because like others have said the bellhousing is also half the case.
thats what i been saying...
its not just "swap the bellhousing"
its "swap half the trans case"
Ok it read like you meant you have to swap both sides of the trans which I didn't think was true
nope, half case swap..
gotta pull all the old races and shizz out of the old case half, and install it in the new one..