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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: shwak23 on September 21, 2012, 02:02:32 pm
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How do I stop it now?
It is the one in the center of the delivery valves. It isn't the 13 mm bolt that is leaking. Its the triangle thing receiving it.
Sent from my DROID X2
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Get a 24mm 12 point socket and remove 6 points-3 sets of two points separated by two points that are not removed. Loosen it. Swap the o-ring. Tighten it back up to 55-60 ft-lbs.
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So I can loosen it and swap ring without removing it? What happens if I remove it?
Sent from my DROID X2
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A small amount of fuel might drip out, but otherwise, nothing happens.
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So I can loosen it and swap ring without removing it? What happens if I remove it?
Sent from my DROID X2
You do not have to remove the pump, and removing the large triangular plug will not affect anything inside the pump. Obviously clean the area really well, and don't get any dirt in there. I have these seals on hand, PM me if you would like one. :)
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So I can loosen it and swap ring without removing it? What happens if I remove it?
Sent from my DROID X2
You do not have to remove the pump, and removing the large triangular plug will not affect anything inside the pump. Obviously clean the area really well, and don't get any dirt in there. I have these seals on hand, PM me if you would like one. :)
Hey guys thanks for the advice. I got it all fixed. I had a seal kit here so it all went very quickly.
Sent from my DROID X2
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As an aside - what year is this large triangle bolt on? I haven`t seen it on early NA pumps, but I ordered a few Bosch tools and thought i`d throw it in on my next order just to have around.
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As an aside - what year is this large triangle bolt on? I haven`t seen it on early NA pumps, but I ordered a few Bosch tools and thought i`d throw it in on my next order just to have around.
Nearly every Bosch VE pump, Volkswagen, Land Rover, Cummins, Peugeot.. 1975-200X for sure on the Volkswagen stuff. Yours has it, I guarantee it. Dead center of the delivery valves;
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/84%20Jetta/20120916_191049.jpg)
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Got it .. I didn't even realize since I haven`t had to remove it. ;)
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There is an O ring behind there that is subject to the high pressures of the pump.. So next time you are able i suggest changing it :).
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There is an O ring behind there that is subject to the high pressures of the pump.. So next time you are able i suggest changing it :).
doesnt it see the INJECTION pressures? and not the internal pressures?
thats gotta be a pretty damn tough o-ring..
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No it doesn't see injection pressure. The big triangular nut does a metal on metal seal around the end of the plunger bore. The o-ring just seals internal pressure. I don't think there are any rubber o-rings made that will withstand injection pressure.
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Should have specified the high internal pressures, not injection pressure.
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No it doesn't see injection pressure. The big triangular nut does a metal on metal seal around the end of the plunger bore. The o-ring just seals internal pressure. I don't think there are any rubber o-rings made that will withstand injection pressure.
but the plunger is directly behind the triangle nut..
how does it NOT see plunger pressure?!
we are talking about the triangular nut that we screw our adapter into to check timing, right?
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Like I said, the triangular nut seals metal on metal to the end of the bore of the plunger. There is a thin machined ridge that seals against the distributor head. The o-ring is outside that metal on metal seal and merely seals the edge of the triangular nut against internal pressure. The area of the triangular nut inside the metal sealing ridge sees injectionl pressure, but the o-ring does not.
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I use a 1" wrench to get it out. Only works with all delivery vanes out though...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v55/dedfrog/INJ%20PUMP/pump61_zpsaf465974.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v55/dedfrog/INJ%20PUMP/pump62_zpsb4996013.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v55/dedfrog/INJ%20PUMP/pump63_zps0e43ee4a.jpg)
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That pump needs a good cleaning, which I trust will be done before re-assembly? ;)
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Shoot guys we gotta do a" homemade pump/engine tool" thread...
i got one...
same but different..
dad made this up on the bridgeport quick to remove the delivery valve in the vehicle. ..can be duplicated with a grinder/cutoff wheel and a solid chunk o' steel
He even put a coupla flats on the top to use an adjustable wrench on
shoot ya may even be able to grind on a socket,but it may flex too much if that sucker is tight,like mine was
(http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii563/hillfolkvwdude/21_Unknown.jpg)
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Grind that slot like 2 inches deeper and ya got a valvespring compressor tool where u can reach in and grab the keepers with a magnet....
make a little stub on the end and u can chuck it in your drill press,and use your drill press to compress the springs...
i got 2 drill presses..a beater one and a nice one
yea even at my old engine shop,they used an adjustable wrench,but on the reassembly they used the ground out socket,as described
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Like I said, the triangular nut seals metal on metal to the end of the bore of the plunger. There is a thin machined ridge that seals against the distributor head. The o-ring is outside that metal on metal seal and merely seals the edge of the triangular nut against internal pressure. The area of the triangular nut inside the metal sealing ridge sees injectionl pressure, but the o-ring does not.
AH HA!!
thank you for the explanation.. i totally understand now.