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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Dirtrag2 on September 11, 2012, 07:26:59 am
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hi all, I still have my 87 Fox Wagon project in the wings and now with a freshly built garage to work in I can actually start working on it!
I will start with the engine and worry about fitting it in the car at a later stage in the build. EVERYTHING needs to be done to the shell so lots of work ahead ;D
here are the engine factoids:
rebuilt 98 stock AAZ, i forget the #'s but compression was within specs after the re-ring
Main bearings replaced, all seals in head replaced.
T3 tubro off a 1.6td with 1.6td exhasut mani ( i don't understand much about mapping I will have to research and learn )
EGT probe at center just before turbo
things to do:
ARP head studs
better flowing intake manifold ( advice? )
full port and polish on head ( including work around valves )
lift pump for extra/consistent fuel delivery
modified fuel pump ( Giles pump most probably )
main bearing cap girdle ( got one ;) )
water/meth injection
softly lightened Flywheel for better response ( i think i need to use the Fox flywheel )
intercooler ( not sure fm or awic )
oil cooler
3" exhaust from manifold straight to glass pack
I think I should be ok to hit my HP # on stock internals but any advice will be appreciated
also will the AAZ IP be good to flow enough fuel or should i be looking for another solution? I would like this engine to keep pulling up to 5k-5500 rpm
I'll be pulling the head from my " spare " AAZ to practice porting this weekend, gotta start somewhere! ::)
thanks!
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i think your recipe is good, gasket match/clean up the intake and exhaust manifolds, i think a pd manifold should work fine, and they are fairly priced from what i have seen. the bottom end should be fine, but while it's apart i think arp rod bolts and main studs are very appropriate! that turbo isn't going to get you 180whp, depending on how much you have to spend and how meticulous you are depends on what turbo i'd suggest. to go cheap, you could find a used volvo 760 t3 turbo for cheap, and use the compressor from that mated to the exhaust side of the vw turbo. if you run a larger injection pump plunger and since you are using an aaz, i think you could almost get away with running the straight volvo turbo, but the vw exhaust housing will spool up the turbo faster and should flow the 180hp you want. rebuild kit is 100 and then what ever a volvo turbo would cost you, so that can be done for cheap, the down side is its an older dated turbo and won't be balanced. but if you want it rebuilt right its going to cost u 225+ cost of volvo turbo +shipping, which would stil be cheap i'd bet that could all be done for around 350dollars. or you could get a newer garrett gt series turbo, or one of the newer small sized holsets alcaid has been talking about, they are very good turbos especially for their price.
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Hi,
another option would be switzer S100 oder S2a turbos, they spool good enough (specialy the S100) and are captable for 200hp.
Best Regards
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or you could get a newer garrett gt series turbo, or one of the newer small sized holsets alcaid has been talking about, they are very good turbos especially for their price.
I spent yesterday afternoon learning the math and how to read compressor maps, useful stuff! the turbo alcaid mentioned seems quite capable, also I came up with the holset hx30 as a possible candidate. I should be able to source the hx30 but I can't find any info on the He211W. what is it off of? and how available is it?
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You won't go wrong with giving your pump to Giles, but expect to spend an extra $250 or so on a turbo-specific top aneroid, the one on the stock AAZ pump does not enrich fueling with boost. Send him your injectors as well, he'll set & match them perfectly. The stock injectors will be all you need, the magic is in the pump.
Is the Fox transverse or longitudinal? Never actually looked at one.
I have a few extra bits, if you're interested... a PD intake manifold (points left looking at the open ports) and a brand-new VNT-15 turbo. Look into the VNT option; it's more work to set up properly, but you see big gains over the entire rpm range.
I went with AWIC, but I'm in a Vanagon, you might find air-air easier/cheaper.
I was doing some reading on Devil's Own website about water injection, I'm looking at this as well, I'm thinking of a very small injector pointing at the turbo impeller, then another larger one in the intake after the I/C. The pre-turbo spray acts to change the map of the turbo with the cooling effect making it perform like a larger turbo, delivering better later in the rpm range while still spooling quickly...
Here's my build thread, if you're interested. http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=19739.0
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If you put a water nozzle before the turbo on an intercooled car, the water mist will condense into bigger drops inside the intercooler - these won't evaporate again like they should, and you just get random drops flying into the inlet and that can hurt your normal combustion.
I'm not sure how big that problem is, but it has been advised to fit nozzles before the turbo only when there isn't an intercooler present.
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If you put a water nozzle before the turbo on an intercooled car, the water mist will condense into bigger drops inside the intercooler - these won't evaporate again like they should, and you just get random drops flying into the inlet and that can hurt your normal combustion.
I'm not sure how big that problem is, but it has been advised to fit nozzles before the turbo only when there isn't an intercooler present.
i wish i could remember where, but i have read this is more of a myth than anything and it's actually ok to do both. i will do some searching before i say anything for certain.
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If you put a water nozzle before the turbo on an intercooled car, the water mist will condense into bigger drops inside the intercooler - these won't evaporate again like they should, and you just get random drops flying into the inlet and that can hurt your normal combustion.
I'm not sure how big that problem is, but it has been advised to fit nozzles before the turbo only when there isn't an intercooler present.
i wish i could remember where, but i have read this is more of a myth than anything and it's actually ok to do both. i will do some searching before i say anything for certain.
ive read the same thing..
the air is going soo fast thru the intercooler that it doesnt get enough time to drop out..
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Yes and let's say there was condensation that formed there's no way it's going to make it through the boost piping down the intake mani, split into one of four runners, and past the valve with out being broken up
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so there IS precedent to injecting BEFORE turbo and piping it thru... cool!!
Syncro: the Fox is longitude mount , I will need to find donor parts from a Quantum TD ( impossible find in my area ) or fab up a bunch'o stuff. BTW your build thread is very well documented and lots of good info thanks.
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Cool. Check the classifieds on thesamba.com as well, there's always a few Quantums floating around.
You'll have a setup similar to mine w/ the longitud. engine, probably with more room to play with. Sounds like a great project. There was a TDI Fox wagon floating around on the web a few months ago in FL, super clean. I've always liked the small wagon form, reminds me of the old squarebacks.
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I like this idea of using the Fox, should be a great engine to pair up to a medium size utilitarian wagon.
Basically what Trev0rbr says is right, except I wish I could find the rod bolts he mentioned. I'm building an AAZ for my rabbit myself to about 150 HP, and I'm doing what you'll be doing for the most part except just sticking with the T3 and no water injection, along w/ AAIC.
And speaking of intercooling, I believe your best solution would be to mount an air-to-air. Since the Fox mounts it's radiator in one corner of the engine bay like the Audis it was based off of, you could really go crazy with throwing a wide or deep intercooler either in front of the radiator or in the part of the grill where the rad draws no air from. Further more you could minimize on piping by making the IC inlet and oulets on the same side, keeping the bay cleaner. Would match up great w/ a PD150 intake!
On the turbo, I'd do what Trev says and get a Volvo cold side to run on your T3. He and I have talked about my turbo options in detail and he's told me such a hybrit can make 30 PSI very attainable out of that unit with the appropriate intercooling support to keep EGTs manageable.
Could you throw up a pic of your girdle setup? Not running one myself but I like to see what folks have done to strengthen their bottom end further. If I ever went TDI I'd get one on principle.
Synchronicity makes a good point as well on letting Giles work his magic on the AAZ pump. Many AAZ pumps are just glorified Eco pumps with little aneroid input, and addition of a proper one would make the engine have MUCH more power potential under boost. Just watch that EGT gauge! :)
Please keep posting as your build begins to pick up steam. I have not seen a Fox TD build yet, and am very interested in how you integrate your go-fast goodies into the longitudinal layout. I just wish I had some recommendations I could make about engine mounts other than make friends with someone with a welder. Not that that's a bad option at all.
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I like this idea of using the Fox, should be a great engine to pair up to a medium size utilitarian wagon.
Thanks, it will be fun
On the turbo, I'd do what Trev says and get a Volvo cold side to run on your T3. He and I have talked about my turbo options in detail and he's told me such a hybrit can make 30 PSI very attainable out of that unit with the appropriate intercooling support to keep EGTs manageable.
has anyone ever mapped this hybrid? or tried it on an application like mine? I like the simplicity of it...
Could you throw up a pic of your girdle setup? Not running one myself but I like to see what folks have done to strengthen their bottom end further. If I ever went TDI I'd get one on principle.
got it here a couple years ago :o I can't be the only one who hasn't used it yet!
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=18083.0;topicseen (http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=18083.0;topicseen)
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The map of the 50 trim t3 is pretty good for our engines there are better turbos, but for the price and the fact that the turbo will be almost exactly the same on the outside appearance as the stock unit. Theman53 will have a similar turbo on his engine soon, and there is someone on this forum with an aaz he put the same turbo as theman53 has on. I wish I could remember his username.
Andy! Arp rod bolts they are the same as 8v stuff mine were actually for a g60 they're cheaper than own boots too. I had the machine shop install them and also install new bushings, resize the big ends, polish and balance them, pricing was decent I forget what it actually cost, but hey while you're in there why not? There are some things it is easier to just let the pros do it
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Find a Quantum Syncro while you're at it, make it AWD. ;D
There's a breeding pair for sale in Mass. right now. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1334449
I wonder how far apart the dimensions are for the Fox & Quantum, might just need a little trimming of driveshaft lengths...
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Find a Quantum Syncro while you're at it, make it AWD. ;D
HAHAhahahha the problem with that is there are too many hilly twisty freakin fun back roads where i live... and i have a tendency to drive it like i stole it when i'm havin' fun! too much money will be spent on a 25 yr old wagon to roll it in a farmer's field! lol
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Thanks Trev, I forgot you said bolts not studs (cheaper than own boots, what?). I keep reading on how ARP's rod studs don't work on AAZs, so I thought you found some holy grail that I should purchase. Not if you'll excuse me, I'm off to the Internet to buy ARP rod bolts. ;D
As much as I'd love to have a girdle it's a little too much block prep right now as I'm soooo close to finally getting to build it up, and I'd rather not have ANOTHER thing to wait on.
And all I gotta say on the synchro option is; you can either enter Hell in an understeering cloud of smoke, or in a less understeering cloud of smoke. And it's better to meet the Devil as head on as you can!
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Damn iPhone!!!! I meant they are cheaper than oem bolts. I forgot don't aftermarket tdi rods work too?
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I'm hesitant to say, but if folks can turn AAZs into TDIs and use 1Z and AHU cranks in AAZ blocks then I'm leaning towards yes. But that's more money than just rod bolts, and like I said more time so I'm comfortable with the stock rods.
OT, if Dirtrag2 has the cash then I'd suggest a good rod set since It'll help keep the engine together longer. Can't go too wrong with strong parts.
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i think just upgrading the hardware makes a huge difference
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well I want this thing to be FAST and RELIABLE ::) a wise member once posted on her that you can have: Fast and Cheap, OR Cheap and Reliable... BUT Fast AND Reliable AINT CHEAP!!
on this note I have to put my christmass list together! any suggestions for comparison on con rods other than IE rods?
I would like to keep the build under 3k, so to stick to my 7k total budget on finished car... but that nay be a tall order. I don't want to cheap out on engine and run risks of grenading it, then having to rebuild and end up spending even more$$
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I think it is Cheap, Reliable, Fast...you can only pick 2.
As far as rods go I am not sure what has been tested, but the TDI stuff should cross over to the AAZ IIRC. So you should have choices here are one I found http://www.maxspeedingrods-store.com/Audi-VW-19L-TDI-506mm-Big-End-connecting-rods-4-pieces-CR-VW-19L.htm
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I put the IE rods in my engine, I ended up having to do block clearancing, at the bottom of the cylinder openings AND shaving down the shoulder of #4 rod because it was hanging up on the intermediate shaft.
They fit, but not without a little massaging first.