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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: shwak23 on September 09, 2012, 09:02:56 pm
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I can't think of a better or more descriptive title. I pulled the head off my pump to replace the seal... This lead me to replace the camplate, rollers, head, etc with ones from another N/A pump I had that was in better shape. Mine was kind of rusty. It was running just fine before.
I also ended up having to replace that black thing that the gov hooks to. It broke when a friend of mine put it together incorrectly. Wasn't a big deal. Anyway I got everything all set. Put back together. I shimmed the governor with two of those copper sealing washers.
Now I can get it to start but it won't idle. It just dies. I also can't get it to start without screwing the fuel screw nearly all the way in...
The throttle feels mushy? It seems to lack any balls? What do you think? I need my ride back.
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Lever alignment. Move it one notch counter clockwise to the position of the throttle shaft going into the top of the pump.
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I tried that... Should I just keep trying one notch at a time? I mean when I took it apart it was lined up with the middle line mark on the lever...That's where it is now except oneish notch closer to WOT if you know what I mean.
Oh but I re read your post and I may have turned it the wrong way. Any other reason this could be happening?
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If you marked the lever when you took it apart, put it back together how you marked it.
When you replaced the fuel control arm, it would have slightly changed the geometry.
Get it fired up, then see how much throttle it seems to take to keep it at idle. If it's a little, just wind the idle screw in until it gets there. If it's a lot, turn the fuel screw in quarter turns until it barely
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I tried that... Should I just keep trying one notch at a time? I mean when I took it apart it was lined up with the middle line mark on the lever...That's where it is now except oneish notch closer to WOT if you know what I mean.
Oh but I re read your post and I may have turned it the wrong way. Any other reason this could be happening?
One notch means a lot. You know where your old setting was, so just keep trying different positions. One thing at a time. If you start moving the throttle splines, idle screw and max fuel screw all at once you'll confuse the hell out of yourself.
You'll get it.
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Any other reason this could be happening?
Only the mismatch of all the new and old stuff coming together and not adjusted just yet. Like they say, put it back to the way it was on the lever and move one thing at a time and only a little each time.
Other reason this is happening? GREMLINS. Get a Bell on it.
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When I had it where it was before I had to wind the fuel screw in all the way to make it able to start. I don't know if anyone caught that.
I just went and messed with it but it is too late at night and I've been at this ***e all weekend. I will do more car touching tomorrow.
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1 spline fixed it for me, but I had a mark(that I missed).
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A bunch of you guys aren't seeing another thing or tell about it. When you take the pump top off and put it back on there is play in the bolt holes of the top. Seeing how touchy the fuel screw is it means a ton. I don't think this is the problem on this one, but if the top is slid all the way toward the gear you will need more fuel screw. Also, it could mess with that geometry of the assembly a little. I say it is off one spline and luckily you don't have to take it all apart you can just rotate it.
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You know what totally sucks? Adjusting that lever with the springs on. It makes me want to wash my mouth out with a revolver.
Sent from my DROID X2
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I put the line on the shaft so it was lined up with the line that points sorta back towards the passenger rear one the lever. No dice.
Sent from my DROID X2
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I should add that the mushyness? got worse.
Mushiness? Mushieness? MU$#1/\/3$$
Sent from my DROID X2
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Ok I tried it with the line on the shaft pointed at the line that points towards the passenger front and the center line. The center line it would idle rough but stay running at least and it would still be pretty mushy.
The forward line it would idle high and the throttle would only really respond when I floor it and it would slowly rev up.
Any ideas guys? If I don't get this going I am going to have to camp out at this jobsite and not commute. Camping in september isn't funny or cool. Lol.
Sent from my DROID X2
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You may want to adjust the fuel screw once it is on that spline. If it is still bad you can adjust one more spline and the fuel accordingly.
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The whole time for these last few tests I have had the fuel screw in as far as it can go.
I have a screw that has the collar with the stock setting marked if I need to go back to that.
I also replaced the black throttle thing in the pump with one from a fast idle pump and my pump is not a fast idle pump.... if that makes a difference.
Sent from my DROID X2
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That could make a difference. Any reason for doing that, like did you brake yours? If going another spline or as far as you can go with the splines won't do it. I would swap it back to the other one.
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No mine is fine I just couldn't get it to start so winding the screw in was easier than adjusting the splines.
Sent from my DROID X2
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There's a part (the camplate?) in the pump that can be installed 180° out. It'd give the same effect of installing the pump with the pulley 180° out. hard start, low power, etc..
Instead of pulling the pump apart, rotate the pulley 180° when at TDC. It's worth a shot.
-Todd
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Libby suggested removing the lines, key on and rotate the engine watching when fuel spills out #1 port. Works great, and is more than accurate enough to tell which side of 180 you are at.