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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: vwroadkill on September 04, 2012, 08:28:58 pm
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hi Im new here..I have a couple of questions that your search doesnt cover..(http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg585/dekane/Mobile%20Uploads/48064c00.jpg)
I have a barn find so to speak, rabbit pick up... very clean limited rust.. mostly dents. it has not run in possibly two years.. I purchased a reman pump from vwdieselparts.it was leaking, that is what I discovered. waiting for it to show up.. and I have replaced fuel lines with the correct fuel lines. bought the timing gauge for the IP.I was wanting to know what is the best brand oil for the engine.. not wanting to just throw some oil in to top it off.. I am new to diesels. not unfamiliar just new.
any other inputs I can get for this would be great..
just curious.. does dragging it behind another car really help get it to run... I laughed when I read this..
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Pull starting the car can help a lot. It will spin the engine over faster and for a longer period then the starter ever could.
Check the timing belt before trying to crank the engine over. You can do serious damage to the valves even just at cranking speed if the belt breaks.
As long as the oil is C rated it doesn't really matter. A lot of people on here use Rotella (myself included for now)
Why was the truck parked?
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I dont have a clue as to why it was parked... the previous owner didnt say to much about the car
I ran a compression test on all cylinders. the lowest I got was on #3 and it was 375..1, 2 , 4 were about 400..
any oil with a "c" rate .. sweet.. rotula it is..
new cam belt will be installed with the installation of the IP... it is leaking out the back side.. by the glow plugs..
previous owner gave me extra parts and a pump.. numbers didnt match.. plus what I read about pumps on here. I just went with a proper reman to eliminate aggravition
I will give this dragging behind the truck a shot if the thing doesnt start on the first series of try's..
thanks for the info.
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I will have to ask if you have read up on the refilling of an IP and the cracking of the nuts at the injector lines to verify fuel. These two steps will save a lot of cranking. Pulling it will too. Your choice to have it stationary when it gets going or mobile. I prefer the in place method where I can grab the throttle arm to give it a bit and to see some of the other things going on. Air in fuel lines, loose hoses or coolant going places it should not. I don't have a camera under the hood on my car so pulling it would have to be a last resort. Battery charger with boost has do well so far.
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refilling of the IP? no. how? I was going to take a jug and pressurize it to push fuel into the system. cracking the lines loose at the injector.. will do. I dont have a booster/ charger just a 10 amp 2 amp charger.. I will see what I can snag at work.
never worked on a diesel before.. mostly 1.8 / 1.8ts and vr6's ...
one more question.. two cables going to pump one on top is throttle.. what is the second for..cold start..Choke?.. line is frozen.. will have fixed by tomorrow.. its removed and being bathed in atf.. hope it works
thanks for the help. I am excited to get this thing running .. waiting on the brown truck to roll up, sucks.lol
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Refill IP by pulling fuel through it. The line that goes off the top of the IP generally has OUT stamped on it. This is the OUT bolt you may have read about here. Fuel going out that line is returning to the fuel tank. But in order to get the IP full of fuel and out of air you can put a vac pump on that fitting and suck out the air. I actually do it with a big syringe and a piece of clear fuel line. I have to do it many times as the volume is only a couple of ounces that I can pull at at a time. It is one of those plastic ones meant for mixing 2 cycle oil. Once I have a solid amount of fuel coming out the fitting I put the return line on for the tank and then try cranking with the injector nuts loose. It only takes a bit before you see some fuel spraying out one or two of them. I tighten those, give it another try on cranking to finish the others and then tighten them.
The second cable that you mention is the one going behind the pump and is connected to the knob on the dash right? That is indeed the cold start knob. It is sort of an advance for the engine timing more so than anything else. Some think of it as a choke but that is incorrect as it does not enhance the amount of fuel going into the engine. It advances the time at which it gets injected. The cable should pull real easy with the engine running and sometimes when it is not. It depends on where the pump is in the cycle of rotation. If you are at the point where the cam inside the pump is pushing on the roller bearings it may be difficult to pull the lever. I generally pull it out just before I shut the car off at night so it is ready in the cold of morning. Others, with more arms than I can manage to be pulling the lever and turning the key at the same time. Figure out how to do that with a cup of coffee in the left hand and I'll give you a dollar.
If the pump is running with retarded timing then pulling the lever helps it to start. You have timing tools so you should be able to set it up where that might not be necessary. You compression is good on most cylinders so I doubt you will have an issue getting this to fire up. keep us posted. We love it when one that has been sitting for years gets going again.
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well after reading this.. I will be just tickled to give yall some good news on my project. but after reading the tracking number from UPS.. I will be doing this job on friday instead of tomorrow. Dam I hate lazy people..
any who..spent most of the day cleaning and and replacing parts as needed.. thank goodness for wrecked and worn out cars.. found a solid rear window on a pick up today..25 dollars "score" also found and scored a complete set of windows 10 dollars..
was looking at a cabby... same dash hmmmm...
just for those who need it.. I have some fuel lines and injectors out of an 84 jetta as well as a/c parts .
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ive made an oil pump priming tool from a metal dowel with a slot in the end.then i can chuck it in a drill and spin it for a minute..when they sit that long its recommended as if its a fresh rebuild..easy to build one too...i can probably get a pic for ya..you could pull the return banjo and fill the ip with a syringe...
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You can use a 12mm socket as well to spin the oil pump. Maybe 1/2" or 13mm, whatever fits best.
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OK now Im confused, I installed the whole dam thing.. and now the timing gauge wont work. acts like it isnt going deep enough, insert joke here,... did the insert . move crankshaft around reset to zero. and nothing moves on the gauge. ugh.
fastest I have changed a t-belt. 2 hours start to 6 pack finish.. am I missing something.. is there another bushing on the timing hole that I dont see.. is there a prescribed length to the guage.. I bought the timing gauge from partsplaceinc..
looking for info.. want to drive it tomorrow
thanks
Dan
and thanks for the input on spinning up the oil pump..I was going to use an old dizzy shaft.. but this will help again thanks
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hmmm....it is possible to be 180 out if i remember right...but for startters make sure crank is at tdc,and the cam lock fits..see if u can get the pump lock in.....install the dial indicator and preload it about 2.5 turns on the dial.....unlock the whole mess and rotate it backwards till it stops moving...then" zero" the dial...
then rotate it in DOR (direction of rotation)..as u approach tdc(watch the flywheel mark) the indicator should start moving....when the crank is at tdc the indicator should say something..like. 80,.90...
btw when u r at tdc,the pump and cam lock should fit...
and for belt tension u should be able to twist it 45 degrees between the cam and pump gear.too tight u will know,itll whine like a roots blower...
someone correct me if im wrong.there is 2 holes in the pump gear and its possible to be 180 out....if i remember right u can pull the pump gear nut and see the keyway slot..it should be near 12 or 2 oclock for pump tdc#1...
if its at 6 oclock or pointing down u r 180 out on the pump...
oh also note on the ip just behind the fuel inlet theres a raised notch...then note the" v" notch on the pump bracket..for a quick chech they should be close to lined up......
pls correct me guys if im wrong..i think i got it covered pretty good tho
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yea if i remember right,mines a guage from parts place also....central tools dial indicator in a blueplastic box i believe...i got the cam lock from schley,and a pump pin from metalnerd...
i could tell u how to make some hillfolk style locks but lets get er runnin first :)
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The pump is pinned. Tdc . Is correct rechecked three times.
Check key for 12-2 position. Installed guage in two pumps. No worky.
Anything else
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when you got it at tdc,and install the guage and preload it 2 turns on the indicator,then remove the pins,and rotate it backwards,the indicator doesnt move?it should" lose" its preload when you do...
engine normal rotation is" with the road wheels when driving"
the guage adapter should thread into the ccenterof the pump and go hand tight with no slop.
my guage adapter has the pin built in so to speak.other adapters have nothing,and the pin threads into the guage and sticks out the end of the adapter
that, last comment was me thinking out loud
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ok... after attemping three time.. I can't get any preload on the gauge. I mean nutn.. like it is not in the timing hole far enough... the adapter for the gauge has a nut on the end of it, the piece you install and the gauge attaches to the end of it, if I just install the adapter and then slide the gauge in with out the nut on the end, i can get a reading. its like the nut is in the way.
well anyways I am still trying... I got the timing dead on. engine rotates good. the pulley on the pump has the woodruff key at the 1 o clock position. I am thinking of giving it a whirl.
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yea try the way without the nut so u can get preload....but yea id try giving it a whirl too..if you have the pump bracket notch and ip pump notch close to aligned its close enough to run...you could even drive it too,just see if it ya hear alotta "spark knock" cause thatll be too advanced......
after its ran and cooled down,like tomorrow if u cant still check timing,you can get an idea of how close the timing is by how it starts....too slow and its hard to start...starts easy but is rattly knocky at part throttle cruise its too advanced...
my pump is screwed right now and mines souns like 5 rocks in a folgers can....
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my pump is screwed right now and mines souns like 5 rocks in a folgers can....
Is this better or worse than 15 pebbles in a Maxwell house can. That is what mine sounds like when cold or when starting out. But it runs nice down the road so I am trending towards the "Don't Feck With It" advice from some here in the past.
Runs better/quieter on the WVO and that is my main source now.
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5 rocks in a folger can or 15 pebbles in a maxwell can... would that be plastic or metal can..lol.
well I gave it a whirl... battery didnt last to long.. got the air out... but the starter died..it smoked up big time... cant win...
so we will have to wait.. I got to go out west to fight forest fires.. I am an aircraft mechanic.. I go where the work is.
I should be back in about two weeks to continue the saga..
so if any of you guys are in the sacramento area next week look me up on here..beers on me..
to all that have helped.. or gave input.. or hell just made me laugh thanks(http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg585/dekane/Mobile%20Uploads/af4e1a94.jpg)
vr
Dan
dont laugh at the crap in the back ground.. its a customer car.. died of sad neglect..that is the replacement engine. will have him running by late today..stupid idiot ran it hot. lost timing belt and bent 4 intake and all exhaust. used motor 900... and another 600 plus parts to get him going
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here are some more pictures of the car for ya to see..finally figured out how to post...(http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg585/dekane/Mobile%20Uploads/1a277566.jpg)
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Send me a PM if you get stuck in Gilroy/Hollister.
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will do... I will be working out of McCellen field... the forestry service has us working there for now.
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hey whad ya end up dion..didja try firin it up?
i had pump fun today too with my car.
while playin i noticed theres only one pump lock hole on the pump gear to clear up my earlier memory...and its easier to change a pump seal on a bench rether than in the car
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today I removed starter. I will have it rebuilt over the next week. when I return the following week, I will reinstall it and give it a shot..
alson finished that Jetta... yeah ugh football is on.
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well I made it back.Sacremento aint what I remember,
starter still isnt done. shop I took it too has been looking for a brush plate.anybody got one. the shop hasnt located one yet. they said I burned it up trying to start it. find that, funny i didnt get that far...lol well I will be, hopefully installing this after the MONSOON rain storms get out the charlotte area.
did some digging when I was trying to figure out what is the best way to start this puppy up.
so I made a tow rig to hook it up too my truck and let her rip. similiar to what you see hooked up to RV's that way I dont have to worry about brakes and such.
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goood news.. I got this Puppy RUNNING... can I get an AMEN.... HAHA.. she finally started and moved on her own power.. didnt stop.. but she did move on her own.. and now for the finish.. thanks to hillfolk and OR COASTER and burn your money for the info and inspiration.. I am freaking stoked...
drove it around the shop and had a good laugh...SHE Runs
and today I got it done. new brakes and lines.. she runs drives and stops like it should.. Sweet.
now for some new tires and rims.. looking for 14 inch tires or maybe some 15's. hope to score some this weekend.
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(http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg585/dekane/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_6382_zpse809dd3b.jpg)
she runs... hehe...
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glad to see it smoking under its own power!!
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Yes,very nice!!!
did u ever try the timing tool or just went for it?
there should be a thread: another one saved,check :)
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yeah I used the timing tool from partsplace. had to leave the thumb nut off and use a hose clamp to make it work. got a .092 on the gauge. tightened it down. flushed and bled the brakes. changed the fluids and took it down the road.. was nice slow but nice. now off to the DMV for tags.
oh looking for wheels and tires...suggestions?????
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Buy round ones with lots of shiny on the rims. You are going to need it now that it drives you won't care to stop.
Good on you for persistence and effort.
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how is this for rims(http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg585/dekane/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2925_zps20b5d408.jpg)
I pick them up on portex...lol
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who's poor now? I hope those came with tires, Picture is dark so I can't tell.
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yeah they did.. 15 .nexxen.. tires and rims..450.00 I gota deal.
now... on to struts and springs .any ideas
folks, yall been helping me alot.. thanks
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I'll be of no help there. I have only added a spacer between the springs and the support to get enough lift to support heavier loads in the Rabbit. Front struts replaced with too soft of a strut so I bottom out on the potholes I drive over. Needs more resistance.
I think CRSMP had advice before on this item. Hit the search box for some answers. We don't know it all you know.
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I do like the neuspeed sport springs in sooty.
id use em in the 79 when i need to do that.
bilstiens are good struts,they got a massive piston shaft
Big$ there...
but ya get wat ya pay for.
im runnin the sachs middle of the road struts from gap
it actually bottoms less with the sports cause they r stiffer and progressive
used to have jamex springs in my old gti..same deal therr...
hey hillfolk it like my old truck lol,like a 3-4 inch lift up front and a little more in back for a rake..i dont even have a pic but i bet someone does
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My Caddy had a 30 gal fuel tank, and carried heavy loads.
The rear had the bumpstop moved 1 1/2" closer to the axle with a small peice of square tube.
Shocks were alirlift units of unknown origin, but hey went to the original mounts just fine.
It worked great for what I did with the car, and I never changed that.
I did add a lower strut brace, and GTI sway bar to even things out.
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My truck was hillfolk cause im hillfolk
i used 3 inch blocks in the rear
i also made extended shackles, that were about 3-4 inches longer than stock...but they didnt give me even a half inch lift....that was the first lift mod i did........
oh i did find a pic of my truck...its on my wall :)
heres a pic of a pic
(http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii563/hillfolkvwdude/2012-09-26212300.jpg)
Sootin it up yoe
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well I got a new front suspenseion installed. I found coilovers at a local racers house.. got them off an ITB rabbit.. and I put new outer and inner tierods as well as ball joints. then cleaned and painted.. forgot to get lugnuts and studs. so the old *** went back on.. I will get some pic's monday..
going to make lowering blocks monday.. I will be moving the rear axle spindle up 1 " should look good and clear the wheel wheels... now just need to find the lip roller..(http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg585/dekane/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_5600_zpsc1788fb4.jpg)
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Finally got the car painted and now for
a newer transmission. Scored a 2h out of a scirocco
Gonna change out some odds and end and install it today.
Question. After searching and reading about turboing. I am going to install a k14
And AWIC this coming week.
ANY THOUGHTS WOULD BE HELPFUL
(http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg585/dekane/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_4812_zps2d38d9cd.jpg) (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/dekane/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_4812_zps2d38d9cd.jpg.html)
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I personally hate the 2H trans. It is the closest of all the close ratios available and IIRC was only in the 83 year. All the gears are 500 rpm apart and 55mph is right at 3100 rpm, couple it with a K14 and it would be everything I hate to drive...it would get up and go really fast but that is it. Plus mileage was always an issue with mine. It was in an 83 GTI and I could do no better than 31 and it averaged about 27-28mpg. That is all the advice I have for you. If I were you I would look for an FF or FN for the MK1 cars.
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well now that sucks... I have a FN installed, well laying on the floor. with a syncro problem. so the 2h was sitting in the corner minding its own business. didn't know about the close ratio.. after all I have read... had a 9a but then I have to change cups and pretty much said to hell with that... tried finding seals..
so.. what if I change the fifth gear out? I have a MK3 2.0 tranny.. would that make it any better? or take the fifth out of the FN.
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I love the mk3 tranny. The final drive of an FF would make it peppier, but other than that, the gear ratio is pretty similar. I swapped the 5th out of my CHE eventually, but I enjoyed the .8 for quite some time. The point .8 is actually a much better upgrade for the close ratio trannies...but I wouldn't recommend using any of those in a diesel. I hardly like them in a gasser :p
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well I end up taking the fifth out of the MK3. the FN was fifth gear selector arm swegged on there.. don't have a tool or patience tonight to mess with it... cleaned it up and installed. I hope this will make it better than what was described to me earlier... my hope any ways...
should have the turbo installed tomorrow night... just waiting on the government shut down to happen so I can have more time off..
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If you swap the 5th then you have all the close gears and then a huge jump to 5th. It isn't my cup of tea, but to each his own. I think the FN would be the best for you. Do you have a syncro issue or did someone not put the VW fluid in? I have tried just about everything and ended up with the new VW trans oil working the best.
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unfortunately... the tranny..fn has a huge syncro issue...was going to rebuild it.. and may still... I flushed it out..drove it no change.. would grind going into third and fourth.. both on the upshift and downshift and whether I was going fast in to gear or going slow, like delaying it in neutral and then up shifting or downshifting.. sucks but. I just wanna drive it.
I have a plan for the FN.. either fix it or scrap it. just depends on were to get a rebuild kit.. buying a used one.. I would if I could find one...
as for the big jump... dam...what to do...kind of in a pickle.. need vehicle to drive that is more efficient then what I am driving.
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I would have stuck the 2H in there and rebuilt the FN ASAP. Hit up http://www.brokevw.com/ for parts and expertise.
My third gear in the FF I have will chirp a bit if I take too long to get it in there from 2nd and will not let me come into it from 4th. No matter what the speed.
Still in town goes just fine. You gotta drive it! Not just zone out and point it down the road.
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well after my furlough notice was given to me{ thank you congress... ***s} I went to my local VW performance shop.. dug around there for a while an found an FF transmission... paid a whole 150 dollars for it... it had never been off the engine.. as the engine was with it. it was for sale too..1.6d complete..
now down to the shop and install yet another transmission...
so does a duel downpipe..which was installed by PO help or hurt my engine..
anyways. to the moderators...if this needs to be move to the user rides sections..please do so
Dan