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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Gizmoman on July 29, 2012, 08:08:51 pm
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OK,
I have an 82 VW Westy (originally had the 1.6 non TD in it). I purchased this from someone who had put in a 1.9 AAZ and did a decent job.
The van ran well but as always - still a bit under powered. I built a boost controller and raised the boost from 10 to 15 psi and slightly increased the fuel.
It ran much better and I kept a close eye on the water temp gauge and made sure it never went into the 2/3rds zone. I don't have an EGT sensor or an intercooler and knew I was messing with trouble but tried to be "nice" by watching the water temp (silly me).
I drove it back and forth to work and on several camping trips in the Sequoias with no issues.
A few months ago I was heading up the long steep grade from Riverside to Barstow (CA) and about 200 yards from the top it went "pop" and abruptly died. My temp instantly pegged. To keep this short, I was able to re-start it within 15 minutes. It ran rough and there was white smoke as I limped it over the top and down to a cafe at the bottom of the grade.
I am finally tearing it down and couldn't wait to get the head off so I could see where it had failed. My problem now is - I don't see anything wrong ??? The head bolts were 100+ ft lbs when I broke them loose and I have inspected every line left from the metal HG (3 notch) - they are all continuous as far as I can tell.
There was no water in my oil and no oil in my water.
I'm stumped.
BTW - when I was removing the manifolds one bolt was missing from the turbo where it bolts to the manifold - if anyone has a spare (12 point head) i'd appreciate a PM. Also the bolts that held the intake on to the head were slightly over finger tight - I'm amazed it even ran like this.
Anyway, I am hoping a few of you Gurus can tell me what I am overlooking. The van started several times after this happened and other than quickly overheating and billowing white smoke and feeling like it ran on 3 - it did run.
Could the head be cracked and I can't see it? I even separated the metal HG so I could look between the plates - spotless.
Any ideas?
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Maybe it jumped time? The aaz were also known for the crank gear failure. While you have it out get it machined for the D sprocket crank gear from the AHU.
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What turbo do you have? There are 2 different style bolts for the AAZ.
Was the coolant being pressurized by combustion gasses?
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That last pic shows a K14.
Get an AAZ timing cover. The early metal ones are a joke and there's no reason the AAZ cover won't fit.
I'd be curious to see a picture of the driver's side mount and carrier bar. Someone did some work to make that fit.
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Have you mechanically checked the head and block deck for warpage with a straight edge? Furthermore, does your turbo spin freely, and are you sure the tail pipe smoke is pure white and not bluish? How about those piston rings; you could have cracked one, causing the cylinder to lose compression, therefore causing the smoke AKA unburnt fuel and the sensation of running on 3 cylinders. A bit of a stretch on the last hypothesis, but not discountalbe. Finally as theman53 says, did you check your pump and cam timing before pulling the head?
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In case you weren't aware, it also looks like you have a 1.6 injection pump and pump mounts. Also, your supply and drain on your turbo are not clocked very well. I'm aware of what it takes to clock a k14 in a vanagon and you can't get it very close with the metal tube off the drain like that.
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Wow these are all great responses - fast too!
I'm new to this engine and didn't know the PO personally. Wish I had been wiser before jumping into this but it's my problem now. As I said before, he did a decent job but it's far from perfect.
I'll get the turbo info tomorrow (its defiantly a tiny thing). It spins free but I did notice a little bit of side-play if I put my finger on the wheel and wiggle it. It may have been fuel getting past a cracked ring as well - I'll find out as soon as I get deeper into it. Something made it get hot quick so I never ran it longer than I had to. Didn't check timing before the tear-down :(. The belt wasn't loose but it wasn't tight either. Could that mean I tore it down when all I had to do was time it? Oh well, maybe I lurk too much on this forum and subconsciously wanted to take my engine apart.
I didn't put a straight edge on the deck or head and will do so tomorrow after work. I would think though that if it was warped and lifted off the deck, the gasket would show some sign of it. As you can see in the photos - it looks like it was sealing just fine.
Parts for this are going to be tough to find here in San Diego. Not like I can go to the pick-and-pull and nab something. I'm fairly crafty though and with some help from this forum, I hope to have it straight soon.
The plan is to install an EGT, water to air IC, and whatever it takes to be rock-solid dependable (a bit more poop wouldn't hurt either).
I'll get back to you tomorrow afternoon.
Thanks everyone - without you folks, I'd be SOL for sure!
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I had a similiar incident on my 1.6td months ago. Couldn't detect a hint of carnage on the head, not even cracks between the valves after the overheat. I actually limped it back home 20 miles. It wanted to overheat quickly on a hill and we babied it. Every mile had to put more water in because it was spitting it out. Was yours?
Everything seems cool with mine at home but I am no pro and will actually be taking it in to a machine shop next week to get word.
Also when I took mine apart there didn't seem to be a hint of cross contamination of oil/coolant but I could see the crusty buildip of coolant on 2 cylinders.
So I think were in the same boat and need our heads gone over.
Edit, also for gages because of this incident I am rebuilding both motors in my 2 cars I want to keep and in addition to the factory gages I'm going to install a few of the gages at the link below for egt/boost, oil pressure and coolant temp hooked up to aux airplane alarm buzzer. These are much easier to look at and read and you can set the threshold for the alarm to go off.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110680292352?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
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I once ran with a bad injector nozzle, and it burned a hole from into the water jacket behind the precup. popped through with an audible bang, followed by coolant overflow and smoke.
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I once ran with a bad injector nozzle, and it burned a hole from into the water jacket behind the precup. popped through with an audible bang, followed by coolant overflow and smoke.
That sounds very similar to my scenario. As I only ran it for a combined total of 10 minutes after the "pop" I didn't have time to notice much detail. There was some odd film at the top inch of barrels 2&3 though. Oddly enough, I was having some injector issues as well - they had gotten a bit noisy (ticking at low rpm but only under load). Can you explain how I would check for this (pre-cup? I'm also wondering if it's a 1.6 instead of a 1.9 (that's how green I am).
I'll get numbers off the block, head and turbo this afternoon and post them. Man I hope this isn't a 1.6 as the breadbox needs all the HP it can get.
Thank you all.
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Maybe it jumped time? The aaz were also known for the crank gear failure. While you have it out get it machined for the D sprocket crank gear from the AHU.
The pulley is tight but I want this to be extremely reliable. I have a mill and lathe, is this something I can do myself? Sounds like I may simply mill a flat on the crank or is there more to it? If you know a source for the AHU pulley, let me know.
Thanks
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The dealer has them for sure. It is a .003 to .005 press fit and as long as you can mill it should be fine.
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Look on the back of the block. It should say 1.9TD. Looks like a 1.9 head. The use of all the 1.6 brackets, pump and pulleys makes me think it's a 1.9 long block with all the 1.6 bits added. You're running the diesel vanagon v-belt system, so the crank sprocket shouldn't be an issue unless it was damaged before install.
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I once ran with a bad injector nozzle, and it burned a hole from into the water jacket behind the precup. popped through with an audible bang, followed by coolant overflow and smoke.
That sounds very similar to my scenario. As I only ran it for a combined total of 10 minutes after the "pop" I didn't have time to notice much detail. There was some odd film at the top inch of barrels 2&3 though. Oddly enough, I was having some injector issues as well - they had gotten a bit noisy (ticking at low rpm but only under load). Can you explain how I would check for this (pre-cup? I'm also wondering if it's a 1.6 instead of a 1.9 (that's how green I am).
I'll get numbers off the block, head and turbo this afternoon and post them. Man I hope this isn't a 1.6 as the breadbox needs all the HP it can get.
Thank you all.
When I pulled the injector, the nozzle tip was obviously deformed.
I suppose you cold try to pressurise that chamber thrgh the precup hole if you have everything still installed.
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The turbo is a K14. From what I have read this is good for building quick boost. Anyone is welcome to chime in as to if it's the best turbo for a Vanagon. I was running at 15 psi max and it was there a lot of the time (any uphill at all).
The numbers on the block (stamped on a smooth area below injector #3) are 370 015. There is nothing on the back of the block to say it's a 1.9 but I'm hoping it doesn't rule out that it could still be a 1.9 (pleeeease).
A quick measurement with digital calipers at the top of the barrels show a 79.50mm [3.1290"] bore. This should tell what the engine is for sure (1.9 or 1.6).
The pump is a Bosch 149. There is another set of numbers: 01175176490. Hopefully these will help. - If not I have more numbers.
A straightedge on the deck and head shows no light.
I did some searching and found that a 79.5 mm bore makes this a 1.9 (unless you could bore a 1.6 3mm over).
None of the injector tips look deformed.
The pre-cup on cylinder #3 is slightly loose - the others seem quite solid. Is there a flow path to the water channels if this is loose? I did notice a few specks of black/brown stuff in my over-flow tank but it was very little.
Thanks all
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In case you weren't aware, it also looks like you have a 1.6 injection pump and pump mounts. Also, your supply and drain on your turbo are not clocked very well. I'm aware of what it takes to clock a k14 in a vanagon and you can't get it very close with the metal tube off the drain like that.
By "clocked" I assume you mean the tube should point straight down? If so, you are correct - that could be tough.
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I had a similiar incident on my 1.6td months ago. Couldn't detect a hint of carnage on the head, not even cracks between the valves after the overheat. I actually limped it back home 20 miles. It wanted to overheat quickly on a hill and we babied it. Every mile had to put more water in because it was spitting it out. Was yours?
Everything seems cool with mine at home but I am no pro and will actually be taking it in to a machine shop next week to get word.
Also when I took mine apart there didn't seem to be a hint of cross contamination of oil/coolant but I could see the crusty buildip of coolant on 2 cylinders.
So I think were in the same boat and need our heads gone over.
Edit, also for gages because of this incident I am rebuilding both motors in my 2 cars I want to keep and in addition to the factory gages I'm going to install a few of the gages at the link below for egt/boost, oil pressure and coolant temp hooked up to aux airplane alarm buzzer. These are much easier to look at and read and you can set the threshold for the alarm to go off.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110680292352?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Damac - We're defiantly on the same page. As turbograsel has pointed out, the pre-cup can let combustion gasses into the water - I'm waiting for his response but I have a loose pre-cup on #3 and also noticed a few bits of black floaties in my reservoir. There was also a thin film of krap at the top of cylinder #3. Were getting closer to finding the issue I believe.
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In case you weren't aware, it also looks like you have a 1.6 injection pump and pump mounts. Also, your supply and drain on your turbo are not clocked very well. I'm aware of what it takes to clock a k14 in a vanagon and you can't get it very close with the metal tube off the drain like that.
By "clocked" I assume you mean the tube should point straight down? If so, you are correct - that could be tough.
Yes, that's what I mean. I've done it for several vanagon installations. The easiest way I've found is to pull the turbo, unscrew the metal tube, clamp the turbo in a vise with the oil return port facing down and use a greased tap to make NPT threads. Use a 45° NPT to barb fitting and run the return line around the back of the turbo to the pan.
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I'm guessing you were revving high to get up the hill and the timing jumped.
Just the timing on the injection pump is effected not the cam/crank timing.
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Libbydiesel, Thanks for the tip on the turbo pipe - I'll be adding it to the list.
Fatmobile, I was probably in 3rd gear at about 4,000 at that point. So, if the timing belt slips on the pump it makes a "pop" and then quickly overheats? I would think it would make it really hard to start - but it did start several times fairly easily. However, I don't know these engines so I can't say for sure.
What are your thoughts on the loose pre-cup on cylinder #3? Is it loose only because the head is off or should it be tight (like the other three)?
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Cups are press fit, and should not move at all.
the don't directly seal against water,my burn through was in the aluminum area above and inboard of the chamber.
(http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/SAE/figure_12.jpg)
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Cups are press fit, and should not move at all.
the don't directly seal against water,my burn through was in the aluminum area above and inboard of the chamber.
So, I wouldn't see it without removing the cup?
I'd really like to pull out the loose cup and see if that is the case. Is this something i should do or should I leave it for the machine shop?
If this does end up being the issue, is it new head time or can it be salvaged?
Can you or any one else recommend a good San Diego machine shop?
I'm also in need of a good source for parts (gaskets, rings, possible head, etc). Also what brands are best and brands to shy away from.
Cheers - and thanks for the clear section view of the motor!
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IMHO when the cup is loose if you have the money I would replace the head. I had an engine fail because of one. Sounds like you are looking for longevity so I would replace it. If you want to roll the dice, it may go 200,000 miles or it may go 5,000 miles, or some other distance longer or shorter. If you do run it and it comes out you will hear a very quiet "stuck lifter sound" and a little bit of a power loss, when you do shut it down and pull the head do not continue to run the engine. See my link in my sig to see what can happen if you do. At least this way you can save the bottom end.
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The turbo is a K14. From what I have read this is good for building quick boost. Anyone is welcome to chime in as to if it's the best turbo for a Vanagon. I was running at 15 psi max and it was there a lot of the time (any uphill at all).
The numbers on the block (stamped on a smooth area below injector #3) are 370 015. There is nothing on the back of the block to say it's a 1.9 but I'm hoping it doesn't rule out that it could still be a 1.9 (pleeeease).
A quick measurement with digital calipers at the top of the barrels show a 79.50mm [3.1290"] bore. This should tell what the engine is for sure (1.9 or 1.6).
The pump is a Bosch 149. There is another set of numbers: 01175176490. Hopefully these will help. - If not I have more numbers.
A straightedge on the deck and head shows no light.
I did some searching and found that a 79.5 mm bore makes this a 1.9 (unless you could bore a 1.6 3mm over).
None of the injector tips look deformed.
The pre-cup on cylinder #3 is slightly loose - the others seem quite solid. Is there a flow path to the water channels if this is loose? I did notice a few specks of black/brown stuff in my over-flow tank but it was very little.
Thanks all
a 1.9, will say 1.9TD right on the back of the block, under the turbo.. every single one ive seen (besides GEX engines) has had the 1.9TD cast into the block. maybe you got a GEX engine?
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Ok,
This is what I have so far (many thanks to you folks). . .
1. Because the precup on #3 is loose, and I want a bullet-proof engine, I should get a new head. The head I have has a serious pit very close to a water port as well that would need some Tig welding and then a re-grind to clean it up anyway.
Any suggestions on where to purchase a QUALITY head complete and what should I expect to pay for this gem?
Also, I still want to take out the loose precup 'cause I need to see if it in fact cut/burned through to the water jacket. If it did then I can be assured that this was the issue. If anyone has some pointers on how to remove the precup, please let me know (is it simply a press fit or is there a pin or something I need to remove). IOW, I need to be certain that this was the problem.
2. I will re-do the oil drain line from the turbo so the port points straight down.
3. The engine is defiantly a 1.9 - as it says so on the block (thanks Theman53) - the motor in the Vanagon is not tranverse mounted so last night when I was looking for the numbers as you suggested, I was looking at what you would call the left end (from the driver's position) and of course, there are no numbers there. It was rotated on the stand so the cast numbers were on the bottom and I never thought to look there.
4. If someone has the 12 point bolt (1 of four) that holds the K14 turbo to the manifold, I'd appreciate a PM. Another part that would be tough for me to find would be an AAZ timing belt cover to replace the crappy metal one I have.
A few unresolved questions yet remain . . .
Apparently my 1.9 has a 1.6 injection pump and bracket. The PO had this thing set up to switch to bio-diesel - huge aluminum tank, heaters, solenoid valves, etc.. maybe that has something to do with the pump selection. However, I'm removing all that stuff and wonder if a 1.9 pump (possibly a Giles) would serve the engine better? I suppose the pump size may also have something to do with the fit-up in the Vanagon - it is quite snug under the deck and I don't know if a 1.9 pump would fit (if it's much larger). In the event that I don't have room for a larger pump, and the 1.6 pump seemed to work, should I send it to Giles to work over based on my application?
Is the K14 turbo the best turbo for a Vanagon application? My typical driving is freeway but I also spend a lot of time chugging around mountain roads in the Sierras. I will be installing a water to air IC from Frozen Boost to help add some density to the O2. Any recommendations welcome. As I mentioned earlier, the shaft has a tiny amount of side-to side play but spins freely. Should I consider rebuilding the K14?
I may as well do the bottom end as I have no clue how many miles are on this motor. What are the best pistons, rings bearings to use and where is the best place to shop for them?
That's plenty of questions for now. Every response is much appreciated. If it weren't for you guys and your wisdom, I'd have simply tossed this thing and cried.
Gizmoman.
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To remove the precup use the largest punch you can that will fit down the injector hole. Give it a tap and out she comes. If you want to play it extra safe (uncracked AAZ precups are worth something) put tape over the opening of the precup and fill it with salt, then use the punch.
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I am not saying your head is toast, I just would use a better head if you want the best start at a long living engine. I would keep the old head and work on it if it were me, but only as a backup. Then of course you end up with an entire shed full of enough VW parts to build 3 if you had shells for them. I guess it is all in what you want to do.
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To remove the precup use the largest punch you can that will fit down the injector hole. Give it a tap and out she comes. If you want to play it extra safe (uncracked AAZ precups are worth something) put tape over the opening of the precup and fill it with salt, then use the punch.
Great idea. Precups are loose on 1, 3 & 4. I took out the loosest (#3) with a screwdriver and was actually hoping to see a hole burnt through to the water jacket. I really need to solve the instant over heat I experienced after it "popped". Based on your advice, I took out the other 3 - no holes in the chambers so the "hunt" is still on I suppose.
Due to the loose pre-cups, this head would need some Tigging and machining to save - 3 of 4 came out fairly easily and I have a fairly deep pit in the surface quite close to a water jacket port.
I found one on e-bay fror a bit over 850 complete http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-AAZ-1-9-TD-Complete-OEM-Kolbenschmidt-Cylinder-Head-/290557711265?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43a696d3a1&vxp=mtr#ht_1248wt_906 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-AAZ-1-9-TD-Complete-OEM-Kolbenschmidt-Cylinder-Head-/290557711265?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43a696d3a1&vxp=mtr#ht_1248wt_906).
Does this sound like a good deal - does anyone know this seller?
Trust me, I'm not Mr. money-bags but I want this to be reliable.
Thanks.
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850. for a new KS head isn't too bad and he is a good seller IIRC. I would see if someone in Canada on here would send you one and you could have it redone for less than that, but you could get a head with the same precups as what you have. I would think you could take your head to a machinist and have it fixed for less than that, so it is all up to you what you want to do.
If all your cups were loose and #3 just about fell out then I would say that is your white smoke and power loss. Mine did that *not much smoke*for the last 3 miles or so then it added the stuck lifter noise. I would say you were dangerously close to what happend to mine. Mine in all honesty probably would have lived if I wouldn't have restarted it and tried to find what the hell the noise was.
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Mine in all honesty probably would have lived if I wouldn't have restarted it and tried to find what the hell the noise was.
That's why it was tough to answer everyone's questions about the behavior of the engine after it went side-ways - I knew something was very wrong and running it scared the s%$t out me - wasn't much time to diagnose.
Nonetheless, as I have no lead of any sort on a good mechanic who was familiar with this motor, I'm leaning towards the "plug-and-play" variety. I'm in San Diego and there are very few 1.9 AAZ diesels running about - so I figure finding an experianced mechanic would be a crap-shoot.
Any thoughts on my 1.6 pump on a 1.9? - seems odd to me but it seemed to run fine - like about 75 HP ;D
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2. I will re-do the oil drain line from the turbo so the port points straight down.
The oil drain on the K14 is a challenge in a vanagon. When installed on the golf/jetta manifold and tilted to 50°, the drain points right at the wastegate and there is very little space between the two. The easiest way I have found to get it clocked exactly right is to remove the metal pipe and tap the center cartridge to NPT. To ensure that you don't get any metal shaving inside the cartridge, you can clamp it in a vice so the drain is pointing down and use a greased tap. I have then used a 45° male pipe to barb fitting and clamped on braided stainless oil return hose. I've found that to clock it at true 6:00, I've had to have the return line wrap around the turbo away from the engine and then down to the pan. I'll post a couple pics tomorrow.
Another part that would be tough for me to find would be an AAZ timing belt cover to replace the crappy metal one I have.
The upper cover is available from VW (or backdoor sites like 1stvwparts.com) for $60 if memory serves. See below...
Apparently my 1.9 has a 1.6 injection pump and bracket. The PO had this thing set up to switch to bio-diesel - huge aluminum tank, heaters, solenoid valves, etc.. maybe that has something to do with the pump selection. However, I'm removing all that stuff and wonder if a 1.9 pump (possibly a Giles) would serve the engine better? I suppose the pump size may also have something to do with the fit-up in the Vanagon - it is quite snug under the deck and I don't know if a 1.9 pump would fit (if it's much larger). In the event that I don't have room for a larger pump, and the 1.6 pump seemed to work, should I send it to Giles to work over based on my application?
The PO probably used the pump and brackets because that's what they had on hand. There's nothing wrong with that except that the timing cover/pump bracket design of the 1.6 is different from that of the 1.9. The 1.9 covers do a far more effective job ensuring that you don't get garbage in your timing belt and cause your engine to self destruct. In order to use the 1.9 covers, tho, you will likely have to replace the pump bracket, the two covers and the timing cover backing plate.
The 1.6 and 1.9 pumps are dimensionally the same size. The 1.9 pump is slightly more suited to the engine, but the differences are minimal.
Is the K14 turbo the best turbo for a Vanagon application? My typical driving is freeway but I also spend a lot of time chugging around mountain roads in the Sierras. I will be installing a water to air IC from Frozen Boost to help add some density to the O2. Any recommendations welcome. As I mentioned earlier, the shaft has a tiny amount of side-to side play but spins freely. Should I consider rebuilding the K14?
As far as the performance in a vanagon is concerned, the K14 is my favorite of the stock turbos. The K03 has less top-end, but is far easier to fit as it doesn't interfere with the driver's side mounting bracket. BTW, I'd still be interested in a picture showing the mount/bracket setup for the driver's side on your van. All of these turbos SHOULD have some side to side play. This is normal with journal bearing turbos. If the wheels aren't rubbing the housings leave it alone.
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The 1.9 is slightly better than the 1.6 pump. Meaning if your 1.6 pump is a TD pump and in good condition then run it. Lots can be done to them to make a more power. A guy that used to be a vendor on here had a stock pump that made 195whp...the rest of the engine was not stock.
I bet almost anything your precups were the cause.
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Thanks Libbeydiesel, Ill stick with the pump as is. I figure I can make whatever bracket is needed to adapt a new cover.
I'll also be sure to post a few detail photos of the motor bracket the PO built - it aint pretty but it seemed to work. The stock aluminum one on the opposite side wasn't doing much as there is only one stud holding it to the mount bar insulator and the nut was missing that held it there.
I agree that three loose pre-cups are not a good thing but I still don't get how combustion gasses got out of the chamber and into the water without leaving some sort of trace. The cavity itself is still sealed.
Maybe I"ll never know for sure.
I'll keep you all posted on the progress.
Thanks so much.
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Where you loosing water? There may not be a visible hole but the water is right there and to get the diesel to ignite the pressure in there is a bunch. A little crack could cause things you don't realize.
If it was just white smoke then that was improperly burnt fuel not coolant and it was the precups.
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Here's a couple pics of the drain of a K14 in a vanagon perfectly clocked.
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a269/libbybapa/100_1718.jpg)
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a269/libbybapa/100_1720.jpg)
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Where you loosing water? There may not be a visible hole but the water is right there and to get the diesel to ignite the pressure in there is a bunch. A little crack could cause things you don't realize.
If it was just white smoke then that was improperly burnt fuel not coolant and it was the precups.
Hard to say as I didn't let it run long. It did get hot extremely quickly though - would loose precups cause that as well?
Thanks for all your help on this.
I bit the bullet today and ordered the complete head off e-bay http://www.ebay.com/itm/290557711265?item=290557711265&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OU:US:3160&vxp=mtr#ht_1080wt_1029 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/290557711265?item=290557711265&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OU:US:3160&vxp=mtr#ht_1080wt_1029).
I've read tons of stuff on this site about which are the best head bolts - any thoughts from your perspective?
I have to get some snapshots of my custom motor mount bracket for Libbeydiesel and get them posted.
Thanks again
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Libbydiesel,
Here are the snapshots of the fabricated mount you requested. Thanks for the oil drain "turbo clocking" pics.
BTW - that's a sweet looking casting on the LH motor mount. Is that to a 1.9?
Also what size NPT tap do I need to mod the turbo?
If you need more pics, let me know.
As I mentioned to theman53, I bought the head on eBay. I did some research on it and while the casting itself can't be verified that it is German, the other bits are top notch. Should have it on Tuesday.
What is your preference regarding the new head bolts?
Thanks again for you assistance.
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Can you post a picture of the driver's side carrier bar also. Your bracket is custom and the interesting part to me is that it doesn't even use the diesel-vanagon mount.
I don't remember which NPT size it was. I think 3/8". It was darn close to the thread of the tube.
The cast piece on the one I showed IS the stock bracket although I modified it by chopping off the nose and rebuilding it with 3/8" steel so it fit around the wastegate of the K14.
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a269/libbybapa/100_1675.jpg)
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a269/libbybapa/100_1674.jpg)
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a269/libbybapa/100_1678.jpg)
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Here is a shot I took before I took the motor out.
The support bar looks "stock" to me.
I already received the new head today - sure is purdy
Tomorrow I pull the bottom end apart and start checking parts
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OK,
I'm slowing working out the details of the rebuild. . .
New Oil pump
New Head
Pump and injectors off to Giles
Turbo rebuild kit from Jake at Dieselicious
Libbybapa mentioned that my K14 oil drain line was not clocked at 6:00 as it should be and recommended a fix. It was probably close to 4:00 with the straight pipe and possibly why the area around the turbo was always covered with an oil film.
I ended up getting an M6 banjo fitting and re-clocked the waste-gate pot as the pot fitting was right in the way. This won't be an issue as I have rubber hoses going to my home made boost controller so hooking it back up won't be an issue.
While the fitting does require the center section to be out by a degree or two, the width of the drain port will still insure that 100% of the oil drains. A new hose will route out around the down-pipe and back to the fitting on the pan.
Here's a link to all the photos of the fitting installed (mock-up)https://picasaweb.google.com/114854647445001577932/BanjoFittingAllowsProperClockingOfTurboDrainLine?authkey=Gv1sRgCOnAseHbnMvR4AE (https://picasaweb.google.com/114854647445001577932/BanjoFittingAllowsProperClockingOfTurboDrainLine?authkey=Gv1sRgCOnAseHbnMvR4AE)
This project is moving slow but steady and I'm reading this site like a paperback book - thanks all! ;D
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Just an FYI, your angle on your engine stand is not the angle when the engine is installed. With it installed the turbo flange is vertical.
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Right - the engine stand doesn't have a hole at the correct angle and slipped a bit before I snapped the photos.
I re-clocked the engine with the exhaust flange at 90 (vertical) and the fitting is now slightly more angled but still should easily drain all the oil.
I also drilled a new hole in the stand for this orientation in the future.
You were correct in your original statement though - it's not exactly 6:00 and while there is clearance around the banjo and bolt to loosen and spin it if needed - I couldn't remove it without disassembling the turbo. Although the same would be true with the 45 degree NPT fitting as well.
What I like about the 45 you suggested is that it would flow the oil much better than the banjo fitting.
Thanks
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Here's the final fix for the K14 oil drain. The exhaust flange is vertical (as it would be in the van - thank's Libby ;D) and the drain is at 6 0'clock.
I ordered 2' of SS braided hose and two new AN-8 fittings for a new hose connection. The old hose was a bit buggered up anyway.
This took way longer than it should have but the banjo fitting just wasn't cutting it and I don't think it would have drained as well.