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General Information => Troubleshooting => Topic started by: erice1984 on July 22, 2012, 09:23:26 pm
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I rebuilt my pump. I used materials that I purchased with a video on how to rebuild the pump. Problem is, I failed to keep the delivery valves and bodies organized. I went to start my the engine for the first time since rebuild. As I was bleeding the fuel system, I got fuel on cylinder 2 first, and then cyl 4. Cylinder 1 and 3 were dry except cylinder 1 had a little bit of fuel in the pipe at the delivery body but never made it to the injector.
I feel as though the problem I have is the shims are not in the right valve bodies for breaking pressure.. Would that be all that is causing this?
Thanks
-Eric
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Swap 1 and 3 and see if all come up to par. I see fuel in 2 and 4 at the injectors when I pull off the pipes and they are empty when I put them back on. I just tighten the nuts down once I get fuel up to a couple of them. Then cycle the glows and crank it with a little bit of pedal down. It catches and clears in short order.
How are you turning the pump? With the starter or a drill?
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Starter, its in the car and everything. I am ready for this thing to start, then I just wait until Tues for radiator to come in.
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Don't start it if you can't cool it. No sense in that. And you know how fast they heat up don't you?
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Yesh, was just hoping it would start - then I would shut it down. Basically so I would know that once I had the rad I would put it in and it would run instead of waiting for 2 days twiddling my thumbs and THEN finding out I have this problem.
But I get what you are saying, trying to make sure I don't f things up. I appreciate it.
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It is funny how impatient we are only to destroy what we worked so hard to build or replace. Drink a tall cold one and wait. You will thank yourself later rather than kick yourself.
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It's not going to hurt to start it without a radiator, you don't want to run it long without putting it under load anyway (I'm assuming the engine is freshly rebuilt but that might not be the case) so if you just want to hear it start go for it.
Did you put your foot to the floor while checking for fuel at the injectors? Diesels don't put out much fuel at idle and it can take quite awhile to get it to fill the lines.
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Don't start it if you can't cool it. No sense in that. And you know how fast they heat up don't you?
i ALWAYS fire my engines before i get coolant in them. i wanna KNOW they run, before i button everything up..
you can run these for about 5 minutes before they get warm..
think about it, if you are only idling it, the exhaust temp will only be about 200*, maybe 250* tops.. there is ALOT of air going thru a diesel engine to cool it down.
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I still hear a robot yelling and waying arms. Danger Will Robison, Danger.
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I swapped the pop valves (springs and shims) from the two putting out the most fuel to the two putting out little to no fuel and the fuel flow did not follow the valves. I don't have time to continue to mess with the pump. I am calling Giles tomorrow and see how soon I can expect my pump rebuilt. I am thinking 4 weeks turn around?
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Since you called him he maybe able to do it better than that. He did mine in less than 3 weeks last go around.
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It just needs more cranking. Tighten the unions, floor it and crank.
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I once had a problem with the spring loaded ends of the delivery valves getting bound up when i tightened them and keeping it from flowing fuel. It was from not having the end of the delivery valve screwed in enough to be springy. It may be worth looking at.
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I once had a problem with the spring loaded ends of the delivery valves getting bound up when i tightened them and keeping it from flowing fuel. It was from not having the end of the delivery valve screwed in enough to be springy. It may be worth looking at.
I will take a look at it.
Second thought, I am just going to have Giles do the pump because even if my pump does "work" I don't really trust that it will WORK in the long run.