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General Information => Troubleshooting => Topic started by: Estacaco on June 06, 2012, 09:22:35 pm
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I'm trying to pull the head off a parts car to get access to the turbo. I've got everything off of it EXCEPT the Turbo oil return line that runs to the oil pan. I found a nut down by the oil pan looks to be about 24mm but very little to no room to turn a wrench. How does one detach the line from the turbo end? Should I just cut the soft line? Thanks.
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Way more room at the bottom than at the top. If the line looks leak-free, I would try to save it.
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I just use a little old adjustable wrench. It's kind of tight, and you have to hold the wrench at an angle but it fits enough to loosen that nut (which hopefully won't be very tight, it's probably covered in oil). You only need the wrench until it's finger tight.
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The nut at the oil pan end is really rusty, I tried with a par of channel locks to no avail.
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Torch
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So theres no way to remove the line from the turbo end? I have more working space up there...
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yes there is a way to remove it at the turbo end. But with everything that has already been said I figured I would skip ahead and save everyone the trouble.
If you cannot get to it from under the car on the oil pan then it is probably best left on the parts car.
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rusty alen bolts, 5mm, hold it to turbo.. real room issues.. think you have room issues on bottom.. LOL.. look up..
channelocks = fail... gotta be a real wrench/adjustable one... and pulling axle = more room.. a last ditch effort thing..
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Thanks I'll try again on the weekend here. Probably gonna try a torch as well as suggested above. I just wanted to make sure when I go to my parts car I'm gonna be able to pull the head and turbo. It's a 20 minute drive to where my parts cars are and theiy're out in the middle of nowhere. So its a pain in the arse to go all the way out there get half way through what you're trying to do and not be able to get any information or expertise without driving back to town. Not that it costs much driving a diesel running WVO tho :) Thanks for all the help guys. This weekend I should be driving home with a head and turbo to play around with ;D There are a couple reasons for me pulling it if you are wondering. One of the big reasons is experience so I don't screw anything up when I have to pull the head and what not on my running car. I also am toying with maybe rebuilding one of them. I also want to install a boost controller, fix some broken exhaust manifold studs and put on a metal head gasket. And again I just don't want to screw anything up on my running car kind of like I did when I changed my IP. Jumped into things just a little to soon without paying proper attention and knowing exactly what I was doing.
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dont go crazy with the torch if you use it. Just heat it a little and see if it breaks loose. I really don't think you'lll need it though.
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Torch + candle.
I agree, you probably don't want to get it really hot but heat it up some and then touch the candle to the hot nut where the threads start. The melted wax will flow into the threads and will help loosen them. Works great. As for the top end of the turbo drain line, you may need to do this as well, to get the drain line off. That's the hot part and the bolts up there get really tight after decades of rust and heat cycles.
You can try squirting it with oil as well but don't set something on fire. If you have time on your hands spray the nut with something like PB Blaster, wrap an oil/PB blaster soaked rag around it and let it sit for a week.
The best penetrating oil is called Aero Kroil. It's $20 for a 12 oz. can. :o
I have found that regular old auto transmission fluid works great for a penetrating oil, especially if you let it sit for a long time.
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i would use some heat, and 2 big crescent wrenches..
grab the big nut with one wrench, and then grab the fitting its screwed to with the other wrench. you need to hold the oil pan fitting with a wrench also, otherwise you will rip it off the pan trying to loosen it..
there really is MORE room down low. if you think that its cramped from down below, then you dont know cramped. there is no room to pull the line off the bottom of the turbo with it installed.
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Dropping the oil pan might get you a better angle on the connection?
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Dropping the oil pan might get you a better angle on the connection?
you dont need a better angle on it. its just fine. not hidden at all. very easy to get at.
if you are having trouble, you are doing it wrong..
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I have never had a problem on mine either with the 2 wrenches. Although I cannot remember is it a typical thread?
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Dropping the oil pan might get you a better angle on the connection?
you dont need a better angle on it. its just fine. not hidden at all. very easy to get at.
if you are having trouble, you are doing it wrong..
That's kind of what I thought but at the same time it might also help to break the connection loose by shifting the tension around and depending on what the OP is doing he may very well need the oilpan anyhow.
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I wish I could say that I have it all off but I din't get a chance to try yesterday. Ran into a Mk3 Jetta on my way out that had a blown tire. You'd think no biggie except they had security bolts on their big 17" wheels. Key was in Alberta. He's stuck in Ontario. Long story short we made a trip to my parts cars pulled a drum, wheel and 4 regular wheel bolts. Popped his drum off with the the wheel, reassembly and he was off.
But thank for mentioning the oil pan as I will most likely be taking that off as well. Most likely needed if I want to use this turbo/mani on my car.
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I have never had a problem on mine either with the 2 wrenches. Although I cannot remember is it a typical thread?
normal threads. nothing hard about it..
mk2 is more confined than mk1, but definitely not hard to get at..