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General Information => Troubleshooting => Topic started by: ORCoaster on April 15, 2012, 07:34:50 pm
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I don't care what the Beach Boys say if my engine is still vibrating after all the reposition and replacing of the motor mounts it is not a good thing.
So where do I go next? Would excessive timing be the problem? It starts super quick and revs a little low at first but then picks up after about 15 seconds. I have a pull cable on the throttle and can use that as a high idle set. The cold start lever is for timing only on this 1981.
Seems as I move down the road I get a pattern to the vibration at 27 35 56 but not bad in between. If I drop it down from fifth to fourth at 56 it smooths out some as well.
I have a pressure gauge on the IP and I do pick up pressure in fourth with the higher RPMs. Goes fro 75 up to 82.5 on the gauge.
Mileage is down from previous tanks as well. Can't tell by cracking an injector nut that one cyclinder is off compared to the others but that is what I think might be happening. I don't have a pop tester so I would need to do something with the IP and the lines turned up with the injector on it. Messy that is.
Let me know what you would look for as a source of the problem. I was rolling at 60 and turned off the engine to see if that might make a difference. Smooth as silk without it on. Had it in neutral with the clutch engaged trying to eliminate the transmission and axles. Seems engine related for sure.
Put a thinking cap on it. DAS
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Just how much vibration are we talking here? Since I put that one odd connecting rod in I had a new rear view mirror vibration but minor.
Is this shaking yer dash out?
Are you in a position to rering? It wasn't too bad. And helped loads. Just make sure to clean the dog nuts out of them grooves.
Is the only problem the vibrations? Or does it appear like it could damage the car?
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I have a piston ring cleaner hear, and I plan on making a pop tester yesterday, but could make it tomorrow. a non fluid gauge tho, just a 2500 psi weld tank gauge and a floor jack, cant to a leakdown I don think cuz I would make my first on with a junk jack.
have spare hardlines, Have an adapter I can use, and have the jack and gauge. just gotta put it together, I do have a 220v mig welder too
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I should tell you the shake is minor vibrations. Yes, fusses up the review mirror headlights from the cars behind me. Side mirrors steady as a rock. Also I can feel the buzz in the accel pedal. Steering wheel shakes at idle a tiny bit. Once I give it just a touch on the pedal that clears up.
That is why I chased around on the motor mounts for so long.
BillyBob, get a working pop tester up and going and I might just come see you. Only an hour away. Less if no tourist on the road. That won't last long now will it.
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I can feel the vibes in my butt. Is this engine or part of it out of balance? I haven't removed anything that I can think of to make it do that.
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I can feel the vibes in my butt. Is this engine or part of it out of balance? I haven't removed anything that I can think of to make it do that.
crappy exhaust hangers/mounts will transmit LOTS of vibrations thru the body.
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I was wondering about that as I noticed a louder tune coming from it lately. I have been running Biodiesel B100 and it takes more foot to make it go. MPG dropped too from 46s to 41-2. With the shakes the doughnut ring may now be worn and leaking. At least that is my thought on it.
Hoping for no rain this weekend. Like today wow, real sunshine requiring shades to drive. What's with that?
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I was wondering about that as I noticed a louder tune coming from it lately. I have been running Biodiesel B100 and it takes more foot to make it go. MPG dropped too from 46s to 41-2. With the shakes the doughnut ring may now be worn and leaking. At least that is my thought on it.
Hoping for no rain this weekend. Like today wow, real sunshine requiring shades to drive. What's with that?
doughnut ring?
the actual rubber exhaust hangers?
or the graphite/metal wire sealing ring for the toilet bowl manifold?
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The metal toilet bowl one.
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The metal toilet bowl one.
thats not what i was talking about..
i was tanking about your RUBBER EXHAUST HANGERS being bad..
the toilet bowl gasket, i cant see that transmitting vibrations to the car..
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I was thinking the toilet bowl gasket was worn by the engine vibrations and was now leaking exhaust and sounding louder.
I will give the hangers a going over but I think they were all in pretty good shape a bit back when I was doing a transmission linkage fix.
Never hurts to check twice. Lots of road hazards out there.
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Ok, got the line, got the gauge, got the fitting, got the jack. now all i have to do is combine the items... and check my injectors out
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I think it is just the way of the Mk1 body style my friend.. I have had the same car since 2007, and in that time I have had 4-5 motors in it and just as many transmissions. All of them, gas or diesel have vibrated at a certain RPM to make my roof sheet metal vibrate like no other.. All with obvious different motor mount alignments, exhaust or no exhaust, old motor mounts to new..
Mk1 will always vibrate lol.
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but never a bad thing to test old parts if the option is available
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OK, destiny has it that we will be buzzing down the road then. Billybobf, have you constructed the pop tester yet? It would be easier for me to drop by on a Friday afternoon and pull the injectors to test at your place on the way home then to pull them up here and try to get them to the shop.
Going to lay on the ground a bit today and double check the exhaust hangers and such. Might pop the big C clamps off if I have my 2 inch muffler clamp in the tool box to put them back on.
Thanks guys, not really what I cared to hear but at least I am no longer wondering about something being a miss with the engine. Which I couldn't fathom as it does test well and the mileage is low, 130K just rolled it over.
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fridays work best for me, I havent assembled YET, but I could get a working one before next friday I think
only problem I see is the SMALL dial I have
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Haenni-3000-PSI-200-Bar-Liquid-Filled-Gauge-2-5-/330665070573?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cfd2c8fed#ht_1180wt_1396 ?
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Don't hurry on my account. I worked on the injectors today and think I may have made a positive difference in things. A while back I had the #1 injector start clacking real loud for no apparent reason. I took it apart and cleaned it and things were better, at least it was drivable. Today I was motoring around and noticed a distinct loud click under the hood at idle. When I got home and the engine was pretty well warmed up I went down each metal line to see if I could pick out the odd one. Cracked the nuts on the tops as well. Just couldn't source it out until I started grabbing the little black hoses between the injectors all felt the same until I got down to the line between #1 and 2. More vibration there. Finally put my fingers on the one between the injector and the IP. What? feels like a metal line vibrating. So again tore #1 down and got out the 10X power hand lens. Looked it over on all surfaces and only noticed there was buildup on the Pintle but it was still in good shape otherwise. So I cleaned it up, reassembled and a whole bunch of the noise went away. So I will see if perhaps some of the vibration in the mirror is gone as well. I can dream can't I?
I have a high pressure gauge but I am not sure it gets to the 200 bar mark. I was going to use it for a compression tester and only needed 500 PSI. I can look in the tool box in the afternoon tomorrow.
Later DAS
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Kind of an update here on the vibration issues. I ran an other tank of Bio Diesel through the system and it sure runs smoother with that stuff. Must burn slower and not give that hard snap to the piston. I also noticed on the hard pulls on the hills I need to drop to third and wind it out when running on that fuel. That causes a nasty roar to come from someplace underneath. I was working on the exhaust before and ran into a problem with getting the resonator off. Well today I took on that task and whooped it's *ss. I was able to find a couple of places where the pipe and the muffler itself were rubbing on the frame.
So after I had all the pipes off and cleaned up I started looking at the muffler setup because that is where the black soot was all over the pipe going into the muffler. Not what it should have been at all. Seems that the shop that put the new muffler on did that and only that. The rest of the pipes are originals. Well like shops do they just took a torch to the old pipe and hacked it off in front of the muffler. Then when they went to install the new one they didn't have enough pipe to slide inside it. So they welded those two small slits on the muffler up and just tried to clamp the whole thing on the bit of stub they left after the pipe makes the hook over the rear frame. I guess in all my driving it worked itself back to the point where there was no weld in the slot and now exhaust was blowing out on the front side of the muffler.
Because the stub was short they had the muffler turned to the side to keep it from hitting on the rear axle rail. As it got lose the muffler swung down to rest on the metal frame and may have been a source of that nasty drone and buzz. I will know next trip I make to the big city.
So it seems that proper alignment of the muffler from toilet bowl to tail pipe may be a source of vibrations in the MK1. Still not sure if I back off the timing that running on regular diesel will be as good as the Bio D.
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An out of balance alternator rotor gave me a ton of grief once, rebuilt! it was! maybe, but the munters had not rebalanced it. Argh! Kill them all. UP to a specification, not DOWN to a price please.
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I think my problem with the vibrations here is related to timing or fuel type. I am in the process of installing a second fuel system on the car so after it is running I might play with different types to see what kind of noises it makes at 1000 or 2000 RPM. Just have to pull the hose off the solenoid and have enough quantity in a jug or jar to get it to go through the closed loop system.
I might throw ATF 100% at it along with some regular diesel and then some juiced diesel with a ton of wax and then the WVO treated or not. That should smoke up the neighbors all day on Saturday doing it.
Just some thoughts. I did put my ear to the alternator with my breaker bar and sounds OK. Belt wobbles some so balance may still be an issue.