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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Gator79 on April 13, 2012, 02:26:09 pm
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Ok so what I have is a 1.9td with a callaway turbo kit with the g60 intake. The pump was rebuilt less than 3000 miles ago. I just did the gov mod with 4 washers and new fuel filter.
The problem is now it still will not go above 2800rpm in any gear. I get to this point in every gear same speed and it is like I just hit a wall, it feels like the fuel just cuts out. Any help would be awesome.
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did it have that problem before?
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was the pump rebuilt by a reputable mechanic?
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It had a non td pump on befor and no problem.
The pump was rebuilt by diesel injection services in Portland Oregon.
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One other thing is when it stops revving it starts to blow white smoke. At no other time will it smoke.
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ok, not big on IP rebuilds, but is it possibly when you did the gov mod you didnt put the arm back on right?
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Possible but its running the same as it was befor the mod. The gov mod did absolutely nothing for the rpm range.
Could it be timing, or old injectors? I believe there is n/a injectors in right now if that makes a difference.
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Timing not advancing? Is the advance piston installed correctly? How does it run from, say, 2000rpm to 2800? Does power diminish before it falls off the face of the earth, or is it pulling hard right to 2800 and then disappears?
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Have you checked the adjustment of the throttle lever arm (very easy to be off a tooth on the spline), the max fuel screw, idle screw, and full throttle stop screw?
If I had to guess just sitting here, it sounds like they didn't get your lever back on in the same orientation. They might've neglected to note the original orientation when they tore your pump down. But Bosch put little alignment marks on the lever and shaft top for a reason, so they stay in the same orientation. ;) The lever arm only has about 45 degrees of travel, so being off a tooth or two is a BIG change for how much the throttle linkage can move inside the pump.
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It pulls good right up to 2800 then just stops going any higher.
Is there a factory spec on where the arm needs to be or is it different to every pump?
And all settings are untouched from since getting the pump back.
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Yeah, when you pull the arm off your supposed to mark it perfect before you put it back on
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Yeah I did from what the rebuild was. But what if they did not get it correct or it was not correct befor they got it. Is it somthing I just have to play with till it feels right.
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X2 on the boost dump valve on the intake. It blows when boost goes much over 10psi, and shuts again when well below 10psi. It did this on mine when it had been laid up for a few months, the wastegate on the turbo had siezed so it was on full boost all the time. Car would go like a scalded weasel then "poosh!" flat as a fart for a couple of seconds, then off it would go again. About a three or four second cycle. Fortunately it freed up after a couple of miles. Check the turbo isn't overboosting too
mine was doing the same thing...but only for a couple minutes at a time then would go again.....
mine turned out to be the pump...pulled the sut down solinoid and all this metal flowed out with the deisel....my back up pump dosent seem to be doing well either ...
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Have you checked the adjustment of the throttle lever arm (very easy to be off a tooth on the spline), the max fuel screw, idle screw, and full throttle stop screw?
If I had to guess just sitting here, it sounds like they didn't get your lever back on in the same orientation. They might've neglected to note the original orientation when they tore your pump down. But Bosch put little alignment marks on the lever and shaft top for a reason, so they stay in the same orientation. ;) The lever arm only has about 45 degrees of travel, so being off a tooth or two is a BIG change for how much the throttle linkage can move inside the pump.
Do you know if there are any fine adjustments in between spline tooths? If there is I haven't found it yet. With the limited lever arm travel (I think 45 deg is generous), it is difficult to set the splines just right so the idle is good and at the same time can reach full range of throttle.
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You'll probably have to set the idle after you get it on the splines correctly. I'm guessing the guys who rebuilt it set the idle for the wrong spline setting.
Do you have / can you post a close-up pic of the splines, and another of the top of the pump so we can see the idle and full throttle screws?
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I am using the g60 intake so there is no over boost valve.
I adjusted the throttle lever one spline and now I get full peddle movement but it did not help the revving.
while doing this I noticed that who ever rebuilt the pump did not tighten the lock nut on what I think is the centrifugal governor shaft on the front of the pump and from the pictures I took of the pump before the rebuild it looks like it is also adjusted further in than before.
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while doing this I noticed that who ever rebuilt the pump did not tighten the lock nut on what I think is the centrifugal governor shaft on the front of the pump and from the pictures I took of the pump before the rebuild it looks like it is also adjusted further in than before.
Yes, that would be an excellent thing to set back to what it was ;D
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Update: DO NOT use an "out" bolt for for your "in" bolt. ;D
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Update: DO NOT use an "out" bolt for for your "in" bolt. ;D
Trying to run while breathing through a straw!!