VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
General Information => Troubleshooting => Topic started by: Jskiller on April 04, 2012, 09:09:18 pm
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And I am stumped also.......
A little bit of background on the car:
91 1.6 TD 5 speed 500,000km+/-
Always passed "air care" well above average.
Injector pump was replaced with a rebuilt pump about 100k ago (before I owned car).
Checked numbers on the injector pump and they appear to be the correct
068 130 109H
0405 494 206(182 stamped over 206...assume it was a number used by the rebuilder)
Car feels weak at low rpms, doesn't really come on until 2-2.k.
Temp climbs when pushed on long uphills, I always back off and slow down (just in case).
a/c disconected and pump unplugged, condensor removed from in from of rad
power steering, cruise control, made in germany(if it matters)
Mileage is ok, but not as good as other mk2's I have had 750km on 50L.....could get 1000 out of the 2 others.
Now for the problem:
Took the car into a VW dealer to have the timing belt done. (I suspected timing issue due to heat and low rpm weakness)
Timing belt was replaced, but they could not get the timing beyond 0.86mm.
Took timing pump pulley off to check that key was in place.
Tried moving belt one tooth, but then minimum timing available was too high at 1.35mm +/-
Does anyone have any idea what is wrong?
Could the cold start adjustment have anything to do with timing problem?
Is there an external adjustment that could have done this?
Or did the rebuilder just botch the rebuild up????
Thanks for any answers.
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Vancouver Island.
What do you suspect they were doing incorrectly?
From what I was told, they were maxing out the travel on the IP timing (moving as far as they could towards the valve cover)
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as I dont have a lot of experience here, but I would like to know if the belt being way to tight or too loose could be a problem? kinda annoying they took in a running car and now can fix it?
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Car is running.
It is running the same as it was before I took it in (lacks low rpm power)
But the timing is incorrect.......and when they checked it before taking it apart, it was out also.
There is no more adjustment left in the timing and it still isn't in spec.
I am trying to figure out why this is the case.
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Libbydiesel, that does make sense.
I will have to take some measurements for proof and see if I can get them to fix it for free.........
Does anyone know the diameter of the pump sprocket and the distance between the teeth on that sprocket?
I think I can figure out the slot length and distance between the bolts and pump centre.
Should be as simple as showing the degrees of rotation caused by skipping a tooth and the degrees of rotation available in adjustment.
Thanks
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Tell those wimps to loosen the injector lines at the rear of the pump so they can turn it farther/easier.
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I agree with all the comments so far.
Probably a junior tech is assigned to your job.
Might even be his first time working with this old magic.
VW Diesels in USA haven't used this process in past 20 years.
there is an alignment index line (raised line in casting) on snout of Inj Pump -
it gets aligned with an alignment indentation on the metal backing plate of the timing cover.
From that point of neutrality - there should be plenty of room for adjustment to obtain the proper spec. The injection lines should be loosened - then the parameters set - as to mentioned above.
Then the spec set as desired.
Then lines re-tightened.
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also, they may have not loosened all FOUR mounting bolts. could be the flywheel side mounting bolt that they did not loosen
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There must be someone nearby that can help you.
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follow the kubvan link in my sig... i am thinking he is over in your area, the admin, and he knows how to set timming i beleive..
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Vancouver Island.
What do you suspect they were doing incorrectly?
From what I was told, they were maxing out the travel on the IP timing (moving as far as they could towards the valve cover)
Where on VI are you? I may be able to help you. I have the tools and have timed many pumps. It's not hard.
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The dealer doesn't know what they're doing.
Sigh. ::)
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The dealer doesn't know what they're doing.
Sigh. ::)
x3
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I wonder if the pump is 180 degrees out?
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wouldnt matter in getting correct timing at tdc. and probably wouldnt want to drive at all.
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@ wayland
I am in Courtenay.
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Is the car driveable? I have a place in Qualicum where I work on my vehicles. If you could get the car there I could give you a hand w/ it, or you are welcome to borrow my timing tools if you want to try it yourself. PM me for details.
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the dealer can hardly do alhs and the computer tells you the timing :(
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Sounds like the cam and/or the pump are 180 degrees out.
Another possibility: does the pump have the correct OUT bolt for the fuel return? If not, you'll be short on power at higher RPMs.
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whats the best way to tell if your cam is 180 degrees off? Thank you
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When the cam lobes for #1 are both pointing "up and away", the mark on the inside of the pump sprocket should be pointing at the line on the timing belt cover backing plate.
TMI: The timing belt relates the crank, the cam and the injection pump. The crank rotates two turns for every rotation of the cam or the injection pump. Because of that, crank TDC occurs twice (as far as the crank is concerned, each TDC occurrence is the same) for each rotation of the cam and injection pump. The position of the cam when the crank is at TDC determines which cylinder is on the starting the power stroke and which is starting the intake stroke. Because of that, I never think of the cam as being 180° out but rather the pump is. Regardless, whichever you consider the culprit (cam or pump) one of them is timed opposite the other when they are 180°. In other words, the pump is injecting fuel into the #1 cylinder on the intake stroke when #4 is on the power stroke and vice versa. The easiest way to tell if cam and pump are in time is to compare each when the crank is at TDC.
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would the engine run with the pump 180 off? if so, what would it sound like? I looked around on this other forums, but didn't get an answer to that. Thanks. Prob'ly silly question.
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Yes. It will run 180° out. With a little fueling adjustment it will actually run alright. The symptoms are a reduction in power, hard cold starts, overly clacky sound, constant smoke and higher than normal EGTs.