VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
General Information => General => Topic started by: bbob203 on March 29, 2012, 01:58:08 am
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but is his timing TOOL kit at least worth it?
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That would be THE LAST thing I would EVER consider buying from him...IDI nural pistons maybe but not a t-belt kit....heard horror stories!
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I cannot even believe you asked this.
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sorry i meant timing tools :-[
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i would buy his timing tools if it was my last resort..
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well I've done some searching around. this guy seems like a real P.O.S. so ill pay more from someone else probably parts place inc. Or does anyone have a suggestion on somewhere to get some timing tools. gonna be swapping my ip soon.
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well I've done some searching around. this guy seems like a real P.O.S. so ill pay more from someone else probably parts place inc. Or does anyone have a suggestion on somewhere to get some timing tools. gonna be swapping my ip soon.
ebay, they sell used, and sometimes NEW snap-on tools for WAY CHEAP.. its usually only the dial indicator tho, but thats the hardest piece of the puzzle. if your creative at all, you can improvise all the other pieces of the tool set once you have the dial indicator..
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His timing tools are fine for occasional use. Finish is poor but they get the job done. Not sure if he has addressed it but the IP lock pin was a couple mm too short to work without grinding off some of the knurling, ultimately I picked up a nicer pin from another supplier.
Chris
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I was satisfied with the tools from parts place inc. Very nice machining especially on the cam-lock tool. In total it cost about $140 but worth every penny
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The german guy on eBay, quit selling on eBay.
But his was a metric kit - and the gauge was worth the whole kit price.
On a budget :
You can get a pair of 8mm and 10mm compression-fit type gauge adapters for $25. Nice stuff.
A dial gauge from Harbor Freight about $10-20 (same one Prothe sells).
Not metric - but can convert measures yourself.
STANLEY 3" door hinge about $5 (camlock)
10-12mm deep well socket for pump lock
The Prothe kit is bottom of the barrel from start to finish -
but it can be used with the results you want in the end.
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I have proth timing tools and they work fine. You just use the gauge to get you close anyway then tune by ear.
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hey, just cuz its an active topic, I have a "rothenberger" or something cam belt, looks brand new came with my torn down 1.6d N/A and a tentioner new in a bag, Im probably going to run it for pre run testing just to prove the engine works, but I dont think I will RUN that belt/tensioner.
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I wouldn't run it AT ALL.
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I have timed over 3 dozen engines with my prothe timing tools..
They are just fine.. the actual gauge part of the process does not have to be spot on precise within a thousandth of an inch.. many people time these by ear remember. If you line up all the marks it will run, probably pretty good too.. And this is without using the dial gauge at all yet.
so in summary, Prothes tools will do just fine. Plus you only need the gauge, save some money :).
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It is amazing how well the stanley hinge works. The only thing I would like to own is a injection pump plug because my improvised ones are always slightly loose, and a timing gauge obv.
Sent from my DROID X2
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It is amazing how well the stanley hinge works. The only thing I would like to own is a injection pump plug because my improvised ones are always slightly loose, and a timing gauge obv.
Sent from my DROID X2
11mm craftsmen 1/4 drive socket fits like a glove.
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I have timed over 3 dozen engines with my prothe timing tools..
They are just fine.. the actual gauge part of the process does not have to be spot on precise within a thousandth of an inch.. many people time these by ear remember. If you line up all the marks it will run, probably pretty good too.. And this is without using the dial gauge at all yet.
so in summary, Prothes tools will do just fine. Plus you only need the gauge, save some money :).
i found a guy selling a set on vortex all 4 pieces 48 bucks shipped. i have timed by ear before and it worked well. i want to at least try doing it by the book once just to compare.
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I have a piece of tool steel that I use for a cam lock. It's slightly loose so I make up the difference with a feeler gauge. Been using a 5/8-20 bolt for the IP lock and it's fairly tight. Assembled the block to the trans and used a dial indicator for TDC. Dead nuts was the pointer on the right edge of the 0. Looks like the flywheel markings are reasonably accurate.