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Engine Specific Info and Questions => Diesel Swaps => Topic started by: 410 on March 19, 2012, 06:56:29 pm
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Well, I figure it's time to start a build thread on my latest project. This project started roughly this time last year when a good buddy of mine wanted to build a truck similar to my first Toyota pickup. So we started the search for an engine donor, which turned out to be a 1996 passat, and a truck to put it in. The first truck I built I bought a engine adapter kit from Acme which I was happy with but with shipping up to Canada it came out to $700. I wanted to do my own adapter plate this time so we started with a 15x15x1" piece of 6061 aluminum.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMG_0123.jpg)
After my first Toyota truck build, I wanted to change a few things with the adapter plate.
1.The Acme kit uses an oilite bushing for the pilot bearing which press's into the vw crank. Toyota uses a ball bearing. I've had problems in the past on other vehicles with pilot bushings so I wanted to come up with a way to use a real bearing.
2.The acme kit only uses four bell housing bolts to secure it to the transmission when the Toyota transmission has eight. It would be nice to utilize all bell housing holes.
3.Clearance is tight between the vw engine and toyota firewall so why not make a thicker adapter plate to gain more clearance and leave the transmission, transfer case and drive shafts in there stock location.
So I started with a 1" plate which gave me an extra 5/8" between the engine and firewall, and utilized all the bell housing bolt holes. Since I increased the plate thickness by 5/8" I had to make a 5/8" spacer for the crank to keep everything where it should be. This crank spacer also allowed me to use a real pilot bearing. You can see the crank spacer in the picture minus the holes to bolt the flywheel up. The toughest part of this setup was finding bolts long enough to bolt the flywheel and spacer to the crank. M10x1X55. I had to settle on grade 8 bolts.
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I could fine you the m10x1x55 in stainless if you wanted. Good job on the build.
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MOAR PICS!!!1!!
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Since the plate was thick enough, I was able to use socket head 12.9 bolts to hold the plate onto the engine. I removed the factory dowels and made my own on the engine side to make sure the plate goes back to the same spot every time. I don't have a pic of the VW side dowels.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMG_0194.jpg)
I used an oil filter adapter from an audi 1.8t. Worked perfect. The bearing in the pic was only for mock up and same goes for the Motocraft filter ::). The real pilot bearing is sealed on both ends. The flywheel was the factory one from my first toyota. I made a tool up so I could mount the flywheel to a lathe and cut it myself. This is the first flywheel I've ever cut. It actually turned out pretty good.
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Awesome! What did you cut the plate with?
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A hacksaw. 8)
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Everyone likes pictures so here we go. First we did a teardown of the motor.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMAG0594mpo.jpg)
Cleaned the pistons up. The cylinders still looked really good. Still had a crosshatch.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMAG0597-1mpo.jpg)
A little paint. Not black this time.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMAG0610mpo.jpg)
Pulled the valves out of the head and cleaned up all the ports. Installed with a one notch head gasket.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMAG0612mpo.jpg)
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMAG0616mpo.jpg)
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMAG0620mpo.jpg)
We resealed the engine and installed new intermediate shaft bearings. Everything else looked really good. Time for some turbos.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMAG0416.jpg)
The whole family is here.
Here's the two that made the cut. K24 and a K03.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMAG0421.jpg)
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I pulled the k03 apart and put the compressor side in the lathe to cut an o ring groove on the inlet. I need an o ring on the inlet since the K03 receives pressurized air from the K24.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMAG0466.jpg)
While I was at it I opened up the inlet as well.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMAG0465.jpg)
I ported out the exhaust side a fair amount to make it flow a little better. I also opened up the wastegate since I figure it will be partially open most of the time. No pics of the exhaust side.
Here's one of the first test fits of the turbo assembly on the engine with a pd150 intake. In the end we used a k03 with a k24.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMAG0617mpo.jpg)
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Time to put the motor in. As far as fueling goes, we installed smog .216 nozzles (edit: Now running bosio PP764 nozzles) and the pump got an 11mm head and camplate from an automatic alh. Malone did the chips for us. He said he pretty much maxed the fuel out for us.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMAG0735mpo.jpg)
We used a ceramic disc for the clutch and ended up upgrading to the larger flywheel that the 22ret had. You can see the coolant flange I made to make the connection to the heater core a little easier. Plus space is a premium between the engine and firewall.
I also put an expansion joint between the two turbos on the exhaust to hopefully keep everything from getting stressed from the heat. We used number 4 S.S. braided teflon line for the oil feeds with reusable ends and number 8 lines for the return lines.
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Motor's in. This was the best solution I could come up with for the intercooler. I built a box out of sheet metal about 4.5" thick since there is so much room between the engine and front of the truck. The stock Toyota rad then bolts right up to the sheet metal.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMAG0822.jpg)
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The motor mounts were pretty straight forward. I was able to use the toyota motor mount for the passenger side. I just had to cut off a bit of the bracket that bolted to the engine and weld it to the plate you see in the picture.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/IMAG0740mpo.jpg)
The driver's side took a bit more work. I cut out the existing pedestal off the frame and made one to fit the bmw mount I bought. I used the AC bracket for my mount. So to change the water pump you have to hang the engine up to get the alternator/AC bracket out. It's not a big deal since we did have a water pump leak that we had to take care of.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/IMAG0759.jpg)
I used the toyota power steering pump and moved it to the passenger side. Surprisingly the High pressure hose reaches with no modifications. I built my own brackets for it and moved the resevoir to the passenger side as well. The battery also got relocated to the driver's side but eventually it will go in the box on the passenger side.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMAG0826.jpg)
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The oil pan had to be modified for clearance with the front diff. I pretty much cut a piece out, flipped it inside out and welded it back in.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/blown%20engine/IMG_0209.jpg)
On the other side I made a cut, opened it up and welded a 1" strip of metal to fill the gap to regain my oil capacity I lost on the other side.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/blown%20engine/IMG_0206.jpg)
This oil pan was from my first truck but it's basically the same.
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The exhaust was a little tricky. The downpipe was a tight fit and I had to use 2.25" pipe so that it could be removed without messing with the turbo.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMAG0872.jpg)
Once I got past the tight areas I bumped up to 2.5" pipe. All mandrel bends. I used some v-band clamps to make things easier to come apart.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMAG0878.jpg)
The truck got a HUGE high flow muffler that fit perfectly. The offset eliminated a couple bends as well.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMAG0890.jpg)
The entire exhaust comes out easily in three pieces even with the truck on the ground. If the transmission and transfer case ever need to come out it's only two v-band clamps and one bolt to remove the exhaust center section.
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I realize that this is a vw site so I'll just briefly go over all the other work we've done that's non VW related. The drivetrain got a good checkover. Both diff's got new bearings and seals and the front diff also got a new ring and pinion. Sometime in this trucks past the diff's were both redone but not set up properly. The crush sleeves were not crushed enough to get rid of the bearing play let alone preload them. The front pinion was so loose that it pushed its way into the crown and chewed the gears to bits, hence the new crown and pinion. Everything else was pretty good aside from a few maintenance issues like seized e-brake parts. The body on the other hand was a bit on the rough side.
Here's what we started with.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMAG0329mpo.jpg)
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMAG0539.jpg)
We bought some wheel arcs that we epoxied to the box. The rivots were only to hold the arc on until the epoxy cured.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMAG0426mpo.jpg)
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMAG0545mpo.jpg)
We welded a patch on the drivers side and glued a patch on the passenger side.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMAG0432mpo.jpg)
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMAG0560.jpg)
A little minifibre and bondo,
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMAG0437.jpg)
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMAG0440mpo.jpg)
And some primer.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMAG0463-1.jpg)
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The truck is officially on the road. We got an air filter hooked up and got an electric fan from a Ford thunderbird installed as well. All that room we had between the engine and rad is gone.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMG_0330.jpg)
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMG_0331.jpg)
You can see the toyota coolant temp sensor in the upper rad hose. Works perfectly.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/Garys%20truck/IMG_0332.jpg)
All we have left is to wire in the fan with a heavy duty 80 amp relay. The fan has a two speed motor so I'm setting it up run full speed on the lower temp setting of the VW sensor and the low fan speed will be set up with a switch in the cab. Time to get back to the bodywork, and new tires.
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love it, I do wonder how the stock toyota driveshaft bolts would hold up in the crankshaft, they are the high grade bolts, but they only use a 14mm bolt head to hold them down
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love it, I do wonder how the stock toyota driveshaft bolts would hold up in the crankshaft, they are the high grade bolts, but they only use a 14mm bolt head to hold them down
Thanks. The driveshaft bolts would work if they were long enough. I'm sure the 10.9 bolts will be fine. I think they are equivalent to grade 8. The acme kit also uses 10.9 bolts but this truck needed longer ones because of the 5/8" crank spacer. I'm sure I'll find some 12.9 bolts at some point and if the engine or transmission were to come out I'd change them out.
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so, being that youve built two of these things, I am really looking to see a diesel swapped 3rd gen toyota swapped with TARO badges. just think a factory vw front grill for your toyota pickup, and some cool taro badges, I would love to find a complete set, but currently I am running a 1st gen 4runner
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Project looks good.
Have you looked at the flywheel to crank bolts from the VW engines that use the dual mass flywheel type? I am sure they are longer. Think I have some here and will measure them up for future reference.
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I think his thing is that they probably need to be over an inch longer then the stock bolts
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I think his thing is that they probably need to be over an inch longer then the stock bolts
Yep, that is what I thought he meant.
Stock 020 clutch pressure plate to crank have 19mm thread length.
I just nipped out to the shed to check the dual mass flywheel to crankshaft bolts from a Audi A4 1.8 20v non turbo engine and they have 43mm thread length. So they are 24mm longer than stock. They still have a 17mm hex head, but also incorporate a bi-hex internal drive like the cylinder head bolts use.
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Sweet factory Vw
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Arise ye dead post.... Google brought us back together. Was it fate? Good luck? Bad luck?
Anyways, putting a 1z (ok it's the newer ahu? Alh? Has a water pump belt)
Anyways 1.9tdi ve rover 300tdi going into a samurai with toyota dual cases and axles. Trying to figure out what turbo to run
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Depends what you want to do with it. The k03 or T2 turbos would be good for rock crawling since they make boost almost instantly. I had the k14 on my first toyota and it was a little laggy but not too bad. If you want to make a lot of horsepower while keeping the turbo lag to a minimum a vnt is the answer imo. Once I made the move to the vnt turbos I haven't looked back. The gt1749va from a b5.5 passat works extremely well on a little truck like this. It was a huge upgrade compared to the k14 in almost every way. Using a simple wastegate with the ability to adjust the stops on each end of the lever works okay for controlling a vnt and it keeps things pretty simple. My favorite turbo is the gtb1756vk if money isn't an issue.
Some guys are now running a small holset turbo with great results but I don't have any personal experience with them. If I was to do another compound turbo build I would go a little bigger on each turbo and run some crazy boost. Although if you have the room, the compound setup we built for the second toyota would be ideal for offroading. The truck made about 5 psi of boost with no load at 2500 rpm. Zero lag. We set the boost at 26 psi but could have easily ran into the mid 30's.
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Since this thread has been brought back from the dead, I should give a little update. We used a ceramic puck disc with a 1200lb pressure plate from Marlin. The clutch hold well but the engagement sucks the big one. The clutch for a newer tacoma with the 3.4 v6 will work on the flywheel from a 22ret but requires some machining.
A Webasto diesel engine heater was installed soon after building the truck and made the truck amazing for the winter. The truck was used up north for work in the middle of winter and never missed a beat. -40 weather was no problem with the engine heater. Never had to be plugged in.
Other issues we ran into after years of use is a crack in the exhaust pipe between the 2 turbos. the homemade expansion joint didn't quite work like it was supposed to. Something a little more flexible is required. Aside from that the truck is still running strong today.
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I'm glad i ran back into this. I dont need major power. Reliability and economy are more important. Currently I have a gt15 and a rebuild kit for it but I can't get the exhuast side apart. Would love simple and reliable more than powerful. Should be easy to hit twice the hp, 3x the torque as a stock samurai and less than 30% more weight. I also have the manifold and oil line for the gt15 (unless they are one time use on oil parts?)
Anyone have a gt15 that needs a rebuild? Cheaper is better!
I plan on putting thousands of back woods miles on this thing. Need it to be reliable.
Went arp bolts because I needed bolts and hate stretch bolts.
Only thing with laggy vs top end, will all the gear ratios I can hit 4000rpm at 2.1 mph
But top end will hold me through a long pull without needing to downshift.
Stock clutch for now so gotta be nice to it.
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what electric fan did you run? and what kind of lift pump?
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It's a Walbro fuel pump but I can't remember the part number. Maybe FRA-1? The Rad fan is from a Ford thunderbird late 90's early 2000. The fan was pretty cheap and moves a ton of air.
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Great work.
How's it running?
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Thanks! Truck is still running strong. It's still in town but has a new owner.