VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: JBG3 on March 05, 2012, 01:05:21 pm
-
Looking for anybody's experience/numbers on this. Im loving my mk2 now that its actually running, but of late, ive become obsessed with its fuel economy.
On all my DDs ive had, I always run a roof rack. Ive had a Yakima brand one for years, and just today moved over the gutter clamps, cross bars, and fairing to my 86 jetta. I leave it up there year round too, ladders and material for work, skiing in the winter, biking, boating the rest of the year. Not a statement thing, but a utility thing, just a PITA to remove all the time, so it stays forever.
Im curious what I can expect to lose in fuel economy after installing the rack typically. I was getting 40-44 mpg before, and with 4 snow tires on it. Im hoping the fact that I added the fairing will preserve some economy for me, but the towers, cross bars and fairing are big for this car, so there is a lot of extra bar on the outside, and the fairing is at a pretty steep angle.
Would be interesting to know what other people have encountered.
-
I can't put a hard number on it, but having the rack on definitely makes a difference. I have a Mercedes 190 Diesel that normally sports a Yakima rack with a fairing, 2 bike trays, and a couple of spare wheel mounts (bicycle wheels). With the fairing and 50" bars, you are increasing the frontal area of the car by more than a foot. This increase in frontal area is probably on the order of 4-5% of the total frontal area of the car, and the coefficient of drag is probably affected even more.
If your experience is like mine, you can hear a lot of wind noise associated with having the rack on versus not having the rack on.
My "guesstimate" is that the roof rack costs somewhere in the range of 4-5% of the total fuel economy. At your 44 mpg number, my opinion is that you might pick up an extra 2mpg at highway speed if you lose the rack.
SteveM.
-
I'd guesstimate the same 1-3mpg. I frequently ran a thule rack with fairing on my old e30 and the difference I calculated was usually in the 1.5mpg region. I had also cut the bars on that vehicle down to the bare minimum because I hate the way they look with overhang.
-
Doing a quick search I see valid numbers ranging in the 5 -10% area. Best solution of all. Leave the rack on and slow down and adjust your driving habits to gradual accel, slow decel and plan your route to save miles driven. Doing that can reduce your driving stress and you still won't be late to appointments. Best of all you might be able to keep the rack AND get better mileage.
-
Get a Quantum roof rack, the best ever made by Audl/VW Aerodynamic and easy to remove bars when not needed.
-
thanks for all the replies everybody!
I have some tentative numbers now, that might be thrown off because half my tank was around town driving, but I dropped from 44mpg to 38mpg! The 44mpg was all highway driving, so I intend to leave the rack on there until I duplicate that same run of all highway driving so I can get an exact comparison.
-
I'd guesstimate the same 1-3mpg. I frequently ran a thule rack with fairing on my old e30 and the difference I calculated was usually in the 1.5mpg region. I had also cut the bars on that vehicle down to the bare minimum because I hate the way they look with overhang.
you would hate the way this looks then. I have to say, its a little to wide even for me, I keep catching my head on it when exiting. The bars and towers were originally bought for a MB 123 diesel, which is a bit wider, and has a lower and tougher gutter, so the rack is not quite as high. These are 58" bars, and hang past the towers almost 10 inches on both sides. Also because of the difference in height, the fairing is far less sloped than it was on the MB. Strangely, it doesn't make any noise at all. Not that I can tell anyway
(http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd387/tinworm2/86%20VW%20Jetta/yakima.jpg)
-
Get a Quantum roof rack, the best ever made by Audl/VW Aerodynamic and easy to remove bars when not needed.
Those are really thin on the ground over here, BUT, I do happen to own a quantum wagon GL-5, and you are right, its way sleeker and those bars are super easy to remove, even has a pouch for you to store them in the trunk. Ill have to keep my eyes open, the car in the pic here is being potentially sold, and I can't be stealing parts off it after the guy took a look at it! ;D
(http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd387/tinworm2/quantum/quantum.jpg)
-
I'd guesstimate the same 1-3mpg. I frequently ran a thule rack with fairing on my old e30 and the difference I calculated was usually in the 1.5mpg region. I had also cut the bars on that vehicle down to the bare minimum because I hate the way they look with overhang.
you would hate the way this looks then. I have to say, its a little to wide even for me, I keep catching my head on it when exiting. The bars and towers were originally bought for a MB 123 diesel, which is a bit wider, and has a lower and tougher gutter, so the rack is not quite as high. These are 58" bars, and hang past the towers almost 10 inches on both sides. Also because of the difference in height, the fairing is far less sloped than it was on the MB. Strangely, it doesn't make any noise at all. Not that I can tell anyway
(http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd387/tinworm2/86%20VW%20Jetta/yakima.jpg)
In California you'd have to run red flags on those bars. I think the unmarked overhang limit is 18"
Why don't you chop 'em off?
-
In California you'd have to run red flags on those bars. I think the unmarked overhang limit is 18"
Why don't you chop 'em off?
Cause those dam bars cost me 70 bucks. ;D
Actually, im thinking of moving the whole setup over to another car thats wider. I don't really like how the generic gutter clamps grab the rubber/plastic? roof rail on this car. Not as strong as id like it. Might get some specific towers for this car that will work better.
-
Get a Quantum roof rack, the best ever made by Audl/VW Aerodynamic and easy to remove bars when not needed.
Those are really thin on the ground over here, BUT, I do happen to own a quantum wagon GL-5, and you are right, its way sleeker and those bars are super easy to remove, even has a pouch for you to store them in the trunk. Ill have to keep my eyes open, the car in the pic here is being potentially sold, and I can't be stealing parts off it after the guy took a look at it! ;D
(http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd387/tinworm2/quantum/quantum.jpg)
Easy to swap to a 1.6TD.
Although the best best roof rack it is a mystery as to why they didn't level off the feet, so that the 4 rungs are level.
Another set of holes in the top rail would be nice, and possibly extending the rail to the front pillars, unless there is an issue of cracking the windscreen.
Even as is; another 2 rails nearer the ends of the rails would hel carrying the longer stuff. I've carried over 250kg on those rails and 18ft long items...
I have two wagons and four sets of cross rails to play with. To think in my youth, I actually scrapped a set ::)
-
wow, I can't break 40mpg with this yakima rack! best I can do is 39 something. All conditions are the same, and the same drive at the same speed that yielded me 44mpg with a bare roof will only yield 39 with the rack. 5 mpg less is unacceptable! ;D
Ill move it off, and try something else. The Quantum rack in the pic above is not for grabs by me, ill take a look in the yards for some efficient looking racks that might fit on this roof
-
wow, I can't break 40mpg with this yakima rack! best I can do is 39 something. All conditions are the same, and the same drive at the same speed that yielded me 44mpg with a bare roof will only yield 39 with the rack. 5 mpg less is unacceptable! ;D
Ill move it off, and try something else. The Quantum rack in the pic above is not for grabs by me, ill take a look in the yards for some efficient looking racks that might fit on this roof
Sell those bars to a gymnast who likes parallel bars...
-
Sell those bars to a gymnast who likes parallel bars...
lol, Im going to put it on the GF's car, should be just about perfect. Shes got the same model car I originally bought this for, so it will be an exact match
-
Great, spread the MPG reduction with a loved one. Da heck?
-
Great, spread the MPG reduction with a loved one. Da heck?
hahaha, not at all.
The rack was originally bought for a 123 MB chassis diesel, and maybe its the shape of that car being wider and not particularly aerodynamic, or the fact that the gutters are much lower with the fairing resulting at a more sloped angle with all the equipment closer to the roof, but it never had much impact on fuel economy, not near as much as the same rack on this VW. My MB from way back seemed to get about the same, no matter what was on the roof. She's got the same model car and could use a roof rack, so I figure ill get some use out of this expensive yakima stuff.
-
maybe something like this would be way better-
http://www.a1-autoracks.com/perrycraft-dynsport-roof-rails.html
these guys have tons of products, some side rails with easily removable cross bars might be the best blend of have the ability to put stuff up there, and strip it down for best economy
-
Seems like my Thule roof rack, naked, or with 2-6 pair of skis mounted up there drops highway mileage by 3-4 mpg, plus the thing makes 'whistling' noises at some speeds. Oddly, when the same rack is holding my monster 'Thule Pod' aero-box (skis inside), the fuel mileage does not suffer at all, and the wind noise is gone! Can only guess that the boys at Thule must have sent their 'Pod' designs over to their Scania aircraft division for wind tunnel testing, mounted on actual car roofs! Whatever... they succeeded; sure works 4 me.
J.R.
SoCal
-
maybe something like this would be way better-
http://www.a1-autoracks.com/perrycraft-dynsport-roof-rails.html
these guys have tons of products, some side rails with easily removable cross bars might be the best blend of have the ability to put stuff up there, and strip it down for best economy
so I ended up buying the above rail system, along with some "monte blanc" aerodynamic cross bars. Waiting for them in the mail. I got the 45 inch long rails, which are the shortest option, but should just fit on the mk2 roof.
Ill post back when I get them all installed and see how they look and affect my fuel economy. Im hoping this will work nicely and allow my to carry my big Thule ski carrier without negative affect to efficiency.
-
If you want to keep your setup aero, put on a trailer receiver and hang your rack at the back when you need it.
I run snow tires on all wheels on my 86 Jetta and keep them at 50psi or higher. Higher pressure really helps the economy.
-
If you want to keep your setup aero, put on a trailer receiver and hang your rack at the back when you need it.
I run snow tires on all wheels on my 86 Jetta and keep them at 50psi or higher. Higher pressure really helps the economy.
Might do that as well, however mostly I want a roof rack for my ski carrier, which is pretty aerodynamic when its up there, at least tested on other cars.
Haven't tried that with the snow tires, but I think I will when I put them on and see what happens. I have my summer tires at 40 psi right now
-
just keep in mind.. a SIDE MIRROR is like 6-10% of the total drag your car has..
a roof rack has ALOT MORE surface area than a mirror, so figure in ALOT MORE drag..
-5mpg sounds about right!
-
got everything in the mail, here are a few pics-
stock roof (ignore the spiderweb paint problems and the heavily caulked windshield)
(http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd387/tinworm2/86%20VW%20Jetta/0022-2.jpg)
with the roof rails-
(http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd387/tinworm2/86%20VW%20Jetta/003-4.jpg)
little further back for an overall view-
(http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd387/tinworm2/86%20VW%20Jetta/004-3.jpg)
They are chunky and rounded, and really don't match the car at all at first, but after a few minutes, it didn't bother me in the least. The ends certainly follow the contour of the roof perfectly.
The plan is to get these mounted up permanently, and get a couple tanks of fuel through the car to see what affect they might have, then attach the cross bars and do the same thing.
Here are the cross bars, they look exactly like a Mk4 factory cross bar
(http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd387/tinworm2/86%20VW%20Jetta/005-3.jpg)
-
Looking forward to the hard fuel economy numbers from this, seeing as how I am pretty much dead-set on installing a rack on my rabbit when time and funds allow :)
-
Good looking kit.
FWIW, On my Mk2 rigs, I use the old school Thule similar to this pic:
(http://www.rackoutfitters.com/product_images/v/462/install_2013_jeep_wrangler_unlimited_thule_300_gutterfoot_lb58_3__42929_zoom.jpg)
I cut the bars to ~50", so they easily fit into the trunk. I pop them on/off per use: drive to the store, put em on, load 4x8 ply, take em off at home.
P.S. My "Polar Silver" :-\ Jetta has the same paint and windshield, lol.
-
Looking forward to the hard fuel economy numbers from this, seeing as how I am pretty much dead-set on installing a rack on my rabbit when time and funds allow :)
Waiting on some body repairs first, then I can post up some economy numbers hopefully, probably a week or so though.
I had pulled the windshied and discovered extensive rust problems, so Im having that repaired right now.
In the meantime, the convenience of having the windshield out means we can pull the headliner out from the front, and install the rack.
I do have a couple complaints about this rack though so far. 1, it has no rubber gasket or grommet included, maybe its just missing and they meant to send it, but for something thats designed to bolt to the roof, it has to have some kind of water prevention. If it actually does not come with one, that seems like a major oversight to me.
2. the fastners are just sheet metal screws. That may be pretty common, but i prefer a nice strong bolt and nut, so im gonna actually bolt them on instead through the roof and discard the sheet metal screws. We are also making rubber feet for the rack.
-
Good looking kit.
FWIW, On my Mk2 rigs, I use the old school Thule similar to this pic:
(http://www.rackoutfitters.com/product_images/v/462/install_2013_jeep_wrangler_unlimited_thule_300_gutterfoot_lb58_3__42929_zoom.jpg)
I cut the bars to ~50", so they easily fit into the trunk. I pop them on/off per use: drive to the store, put em on, load 4x8 ply, take em off at home.
P.S. My "Polar Silver" :-\ Jetta has the same paint and windshield, lol.
I love the Thule and yakima gutter racks, I just wish the mk2s had something more substantial to attach them to than the rubber trim over a pinchweld. Even with my yakima rack cranked down, it was still movable, and was in danger of cutting the rubber.
It just made me nervous (especially since I had ripped off some trim with another forum member on a parts car and saw how the trim itself was attached with just clips, which had a tendency to break easily as we removed it). It just seemed to me that it was never a permanent roof solution, that I was always clamping something to what was effectively a trim piece, which always affected how I would use the rack.
this change will be for peace of mind in my eyes. ;D
-
Looking forward to the hard fuel economy numbers from this, seeing as how I am pretty much dead-set on installing a rack on my rabbit when time and funds allow :)
its gonna drop your economy..
its not like a light canopy on a caddy, where you see mileage INCREASE..
the light canopy makes them MORE aerodynamic most of the time..
a set of BARS coming off the roof does not..
expect a 3-5mpg loss..
-
(http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd387/tinworm2/86%20VW%20Jetta/005-3.jpg)
its not the roof bars that are gonna kill the economy, but the cross bars that add all the drag..
-
Easy solution to the problem--only put the cross bars on when you need 'em, store 'em in the trunk when you don't. Increased utility on demand, no permanent loss in economy--truly the best of all worlds :D
just keep in mind.. a SIDE MIRROR is like 6-10% of the total drag your car has..
ROR--do you recall where you got that info? I would be interested in further investigation about how to reduce that--it seems like an easy way to get a noticeable increase in fuel economy, to address that drag. Anyone aware of any potential solutions?
-
Easy solution to the problem--only put the cross bars on when you need 'em, store 'em in the trunk when you don't. Increased utility on demand, no permanent loss in economy--truly the best of all worlds :D
just keep in mind.. a SIDE MIRROR is like 6-10% of the total drag your car has..
ROR--do you recall where you got that info? I would be interested in further investigation about how to reduce that--it seems like an easy way to get a noticeable increase in fuel economy, to address that drag. Anyone aware of any potential solutions?
yes, smaller mirrors, and only a mirror on the drivers side..
the info was from a fellow VW junky.. i completely believe him as well..
he built a rocco that got nearly 60mpg with very little tuning!! had shaved everything.. and only one mirror.
and i believe the Yakima racks dont come apart like his does.. so you wouldnt be taking the cross rails off as easy..
-
10%
Doubtful in a car with drip rails, unless you are rocking some west coast mirrors.
Also be aware local law may require both side mirrors.
-
yes, smaller mirrors, and only a mirror on the drivers side..
the info was from a fellow VW junky.. i completely believe him as well..
he built a rocco that got nearly 60mpg with very little tuning!! had shaved everything.. and only one mirror.
and i believe the Yakima racks dont come apart like his does.. so you wouldnt be taking the cross rails off as easy..
10%
Doubtful in a car with drip rails, unless you are rocking some west coast mirrors.
Also be aware local law may require both side mirrors.
That's exactly what I was thinking--smaller, pointier mirror(s), perhaps with a clear plastic cone on the back, over the mirror itself, to decrease drag. Unless that was illegal, of course. If it is legal, I'm totally doing it--I don't really use my side mirrors anyway, just my rearview and glances backward over the shoulder to check the blindspot. I'd never even notice if the plastic cone fogged over... :P I wonder if putting them further forward on the fenders would help out any?
ROR--any links to this guy's 'rocco build? I'm assuming it's a diesel swap...OR WAS IT GAS ?! :o Either way, it'd be great to read more about it.
-
yes, smaller mirrors, and only a mirror on the drivers side..
the info was from a fellow VW junky.. i completely believe him as well..
he built a rocco that got nearly 60mpg with very little tuning!! had shaved everything.. and only one mirror.
and i believe the Yakima racks dont come apart like his does.. so you wouldnt be taking the cross rails off as easy..
10%
Doubtful in a car with drip rails, unless you are rocking some west coast mirrors.
Also be aware local law may require both side mirrors.
That's exactly what I was thinking--smaller, pointier mirror(s), perhaps with a clear plastic cone on the back, over the mirror itself, to decrease drag. Unless that was illegal, of course. If it is legal, I'm totally doing it--I don't really use my side mirrors anyway, just my rearview and glances backward over the shoulder to check the blindspot. I'd never even notice if the plastic cone fogged over... :P I wonder if putting them further forward on the fenders would help out any?
ROR--any links to this guy's 'rocco build? I'm assuming it's a diesel swap...OR WAS IT GAS ?! :o Either way, it'd be great to read more about it.
nah, diesel rocco.. idk if the guy has a build. i met him at the Double J G2G earlier this year.. had a FF trans in it. n/a too.
-
2. the fastners are just sheet metal screws. That may be pretty common, but i prefer a nice strong bolt and nut, so im gonna actually bolt them on instead through the roof and discard the sheet metal screws. We are also making rubber feet for the rack.
so what we've decided to do is use nutserts in the roof. There was some debate between the body guy and I, about how best to attach this rack, and since the car will eventually be painted, we really shouldn't just bolt the sucker to the roof under the headliner.
What hes done is used steel nutserts in the sheet metal, and sealed around them. this way I can bolt and unbolt the rack for paint, and overall, its a much more thought out attachment. What I need to do for installation is seal the threads of the screws themselves, instead of making a potentially ugly large foot for the rack.
I think overall, it should look much better and be very strong.
I should have some pics later on
EDIT-
some pics-
here are the nutserts installed, a potential gasket, and the foot for the rack from a few angles. This is way better than the fasters that came with it, and most importantly, (as you can see from the condition of the paint) makes the thing removable for sanding in the not too distant future.
Each rail has 6 screw locations
got to get the correct length grade 8 fastners, but should have it all assembled shortly.
(http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd387/tinworm2/86%20VW%20Jetta/008_zpsa0be730f.jpg)
(http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd387/tinworm2/86%20VW%20Jetta/004_zpsc8515a44.jpg)
-
Slick, Find some nice decorative Chrome or black round Allen wrench type bolts and keep them handy for when the rack is not in place. Otherwise water in the headliner no?
-
Slick, Find some nice decorative Chrome or black round Allen wrench type bolts and keep them handy for when the rack is not in place. Otherwise water in the headliner no?
got them all mounted, actually, the rails im going to leave on all the time, but yeah, if I left the nutserts open, id have a major water problem.
After installing, I doubt ill be taking it off except for paint, the rack has covers for all hardware, so its pretty sleek once its all on.
Here is the rack installed with the fastner holes covered. it has a deathgrip on the roof, shaking back and forth will rock the whole car without a hair of movement-
(http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd387/tinworm2/86%20VW%20Jetta/004-6.jpg)
Next a few pics of the monte blanc cross bars. These things are pretty gratifying, everything on them seems shaved for air flow, the crank for tightening it recesses into the tower, and the whole thing is low profile. now for some test runs
(http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd387/tinworm2/86%20VW%20Jetta/005-5.jpg)
(http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd387/tinworm2/86%20VW%20Jetta/006-4.jpg)
-
its STILL added drag, no matter how aero-dynamic it is..
-
Better to be slick and Aero than that old plywood box bolted to the clip on roof racks we used for going on vacation in the summer. Dad must have hated to put them on as he was all about squezzing every last mile out of a gallon of gas. 7 kids, the box on the top of a Country Squire station wagon and still got near 20 mpg in the late 70's
-
its STILL added drag, no matter how aero-dynamic it is..
yes. The objective for me is having my cake and eating as much of it as possible.
The full Yakima arrangement dropped fuel economy from mid 40s to high 30s, as much as 7-8mpg. If this setup drops it only a few mpg, that will be worth it to me. So far I have about 360 miles on just the roof rails, not a full tank driven yet.
My plan is to drive a couple tanks with just the rails, a couple with the cross bars, and finally, a couple with the roof top carrier and see the differences. That there will be a decrease I am fully aware, its more of a matter of how much, and whether acceptable
-
so one whole tank with the roof rails yielded 45.2 MPG with about 30% around town driving and several extended traffic incidents, which is looking like its comparable to nothing on the roof.
Anything above 45 im happy with. Now I will install the cross bars and see what they do.
-
so one whole tank with the roof rails yielded 45.2 MPG with about 30% around town driving and several extended traffic incidents, which is looking like its comparable to nothing on the roof.
Anything above 45 im happy with. Now I will install the cross bars and see what they do.
roof rails hardly create any drag..
the cross bars on OTOH, will bring your mileage down.. they are were the added drag comes from..
i didnt expect there to be a MPG drop with just the lateral support bars..
-
so one whole tank with the roof rails yielded 45.2 MPG with about 30% around town driving and several extended traffic incidents, which is looking like its comparable to nothing on the roof.
Anything above 45 im happy with. Now I will install the cross bars and see what they do.
roof rails hardly create any drag..
the cross bars on OTOH, will bring your mileage down.. they are were the added drag comes from..
i didnt expect there to be a MPG drop with just the lateral support bars..
we agree, and I didn't expect a difference either, what I was doing was establishing a baseline to measure against. Now that I have confirmed numbers that point to the rails being essentially no additional drag on the car, I can continue to the cross bars scientifically. ;D
-
so one whole tank with the roof rails yielded 45.2 MPG with about 30% around town driving and several extended traffic incidents, which is looking like its comparable to nothing on the roof.
Anything above 45 im happy with. Now I will install the cross bars and see what they do.
roof rails hardly create any drag..
the cross bars on OTOH, will bring your mileage down.. they are were the added drag comes from..
i didnt expect there to be a MPG drop with just the lateral support bars..
we agree, and I didn't expect a difference either, what I was doing was establishing a baseline to measure against. Now that I have confirmed numbers that point to the rails being essentially no additional drag on the car, I can continue to the cross bars scientifically. ;D
hopefully, being that the bars are actually aerodynamic, i would think it shouldnt even bee too horrible..
-
so here are some pics of the cross bars mounted up-
overview-
(http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd387/tinworm2/86%20VW%20Jetta/0014.jpg)
close up-
(http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd387/tinworm2/86%20VW%20Jetta/0024.jpg)
Ive decided I really like these Monte Blanc cross bars. Im really interested to see what they do for economy, every feature seems to be designed to limit drag, the handles are recessed, there is a sloped rubber gasket for the attachment to the rails, and all slots for extra attachments come with rubber inserts to conceal them and improve the overall shape. The feature I most enjoy is the lock mechanism, which is a plastic arrangement similar to a wheel lock for a rim, no metal to get corroded and rust. Downside is that its definitely more fragile, locking mechanism and tightening clamp. These seem like things that will be brittle in the winter-
(http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd387/tinworm2/86%20VW%20Jetta/003-8.jpg)
Underneath, there is even a set of 4 plastic parts to fill in the slots used for adjustment-
after its mounted-
(http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd387/tinworm2/86%20VW%20Jetta/004-7.jpg)
the plastic inserts-
(http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd387/tinworm2/86%20VW%20Jetta/005-6.jpg)
and covered up-
(http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd387/tinworm2/86%20VW%20Jetta/006-5.jpg)
-
They look very well thought out. Definitely get what you pay for!
-
They look very well thought out. Definitely get what you pay for!
What was the cost and shipping?
-
Kind of clash against that paint job though. More rattle cans please?
-
They look very well thought out. Definitely get what you pay for!
What was the cost and shipping?
like 200 bucks for everything, cross bars and rails. Shipping was cheap, came from a warehouse in the jersey area I think.
-
Kind of clash against that paint job though. More rattle cans please?
;D
you are looking at my glacial paint process. One day, the whole car will be repainted when funds allow, but as I progress, im having a body guy paint primer in readiness for final prep before paint. He dusts the gray with black for sanding purposes. Next big body job is the driver side doors, eventually it will all be gray, then a MB green color.
-
My brother drove a primer gray car for years so I can relate. When it finally came time to paint the color on it he chose this bright baby blue that I never could get used to. The metallic midnight blue I put on my Triumph would turn heads because it was sharp. His color evoked laughter from many. Should have had it painted with some baby pink on the hood while he was at it.
-
They look very well thought out. Definitely get what you pay for!
What was the cost and shipping?
like 200 bucks for everything, cross bars and rails. Shipping was cheap, came from a warehouse in the jersey area I think.
Is that a good price compared to what you get from Thule or Yakima these days? How's the quality? I don't know about Yakima but Thule racks these days are very poor corrosion resistance wise, paint peel, plating on hardware flakes off and rust out. I have some old Thule bike carriers that were made in Sweden (not the same as Thule USA), much higher quality with no rusted hardware. I was lucky, found them at a Salvation Army $20 for 4 carriers.
-
My brother drove a primer gray car for years so I can relate. When it finally came time to paint the color on it he chose this bright baby blue that I never could get used to. The metallic midnight blue I put on my Triumph would turn heads because it was sharp. His color evoked laughter from many. Should have had it painted with some baby pink on the hood while he was at it.
this will be the final color, I think it will look good on a mk2. Its called "petrol Green"
(http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd387/tinworm2/86%20VW%20Jetta/petrolgreenmb.jpg)
-
Go Diesel Green, you know that color on the pump handle. I don't see many of those on the road. Wonder why?
-
Go Diesel Green, you know that color on the pump handle. I don't see many of those on the road. Wonder why?
already have a work van I painted as close to john deere green as I could, which is pretty similar to a diesel pump green. Can't have two vehicles almost the same color. would get boring! ;D
-
Yellow racing stripes on the van and White ones on the car?
-
Yellow racing stripes on the van and White ones on the car?
lol, not a bad idea.
Update-
Car has been down for the count for a while as I redid the interior and other issues, but im driving it again starting last monday. Im dealing with a brake drag continuing problem in the rear, so I still don't have fuel economy numbers on the cross bar that wouldn't be slightly off, but as soon as I run a tank, ill post up something.
Additionally, I did a strength test to see if the rack would end up denting the roof, here area few pics-
(http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd387/tinworm2/86%20VW%20Jetta/003-9.jpg)
(http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd387/tinworm2/86%20VW%20Jetta/0022-6.jpg)
this is a bunch of lumber, 5 mounted tires, and a bunch of casting mold casings over some plywood I left up there for a day or so. Roof seemed to handle it just fine, no denting at the feel or anything, so im confident that I can put my bike up there and ski carrier without incident, but Ill watch it long term
-
Here's apic of the subaru Legacy wagon roof rack swapped onto the Rabbit:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img145/2647/rabbitroofrack.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/145/rabbitroofrack.jpg/)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img231/7030/rabbitroofrack2.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/231/rabbitroofrack2.jpg/)
The Subabru's roof is flatter so the ends want to draw up a little but it's not noticeable unless you are up close and looking for it.
Still looking for a couple cross bars.
-
so its been a while, and ive been very pleased with this roof rack arrangement. even with the cross bars and carrier, its never done less than 42mpg this winter so far.
couple pics-
also found that my thule cargo carrier grabbed these monteblanc bars extremely well. They were just the right size for the screw on clamps to be really effective and not over extended
(http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd387/tinworm2/86%20VW%20Jetta/2013-01-25220527.jpg)
(http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd387/tinworm2/86%20VW%20Jetta/2013-01-25220513.jpg)
-
Here's apic of the subaru Legacy wagon roof rack swapped onto the Rabbit:
The Subabru's roof is flatter so the ends want to draw up a little but it's not noticeable unless you are up close and looking for it.
Still looking for a couple cross bars.
what year legacy? you should check out that rack website earlier in the thread, there are some excellent and cheap cross bars on there
-
I'm not real familiar with the subarus, I'll have to go back to the yard and see what year it is.
I found a fairly local guy with a couple cross bars that might be the right ones.