VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: ffgb on February 27, 2012, 05:42:51 pm
-
So I my rebuilt 1984 1.6n/a engine is giving me problems again!!! The first elring HG leaked oil in the front portion of the engine between cylinders 1&2. The arp head studs were torqued to 80ftlbs, when I saw it leaking, I in reased the torque to 90ftlbs, leak slowed but still not happy because oil was still leaking on fresh painted block. I then canved the HG with another elring but this time I sprayed hylomar on both sides of the HG then torqued the arp head studs to 95ftlbs. The leak stopped but one day I noticed it started to leak again. Also, this time I noticed the coolant resevoir had black fuild in there, found out it is OIL!!!!! I am so at a loss! I dont know what to do, retorque the arp head studs? When I rebuilt the engine, the deck was blocked straight and the cylinder head was totally rebuilt and resurfaced. Can the arp head studs be giving me these problems? They are new with the rebuild!!!
-
if you have an oil cooler, it cold be that.
-
No oil cooler
-
what oil port between 1 and 2?? its between 3 and 4... and OLD OLD trick.. super weather stripping adheasive, the yellow goo made by 3m.. i do a smear of it on the rubber o ring thinggy... and it will never deform/come loose/leak.. gotta work at it to remove it when you do headgaskets down the road..
so try that on your next one...
-
Are you putting a definite layer of sealant, or only putting enough to fill in any imperfections, the latter being the correct one as far as I'm aware
-
im just doing a smear with my glue.. no idea what op is... my gaskets fail when the fiber starts to seep antifreeze out the back of the block.. not a oil leak.. :) on the old 11mm engine.. that was a 4 or so year thing..
-
Not sure if my post is relevant but I bought ARP head studs for my AAZ rebuild and the instructions call for 134 ft-lb of torque.
-
I x2 that. I torque the head bolts to a minimum of 120 ft.lbs which is very close to the original oem head bolts. I usually don't have problems with that, If I do I try higher torque and test before I start questioning the head gasket, especially if it's a mls head gasket.
-
The instructions call for 80ftlbs with the supplied moly lube on the fasteners and 120ftlbs without using the supplied moly lube and using 10w-30wt oil instead. 134ftlbs seems really high? Do you have the part number for your head studs? I would like to see if they are the same part number as mine. What I plan to do in the next couple of days is retorque the fasteners while the engine is cold. I'll try 100ftlbs and see if the fasteners move and the torque wrench clicks, if the fasteners don't move and the torque wrench clicks at 100ftlbs, I'll try 120ftlbs and hope the fasteners move a bit. Then I can put on a turbocharger real soon!!!
-
Do your studs have the same thread pitch as the stock bolts?
My Raceware ones have about twice as many TPI which makes fro way more clamping force at a given torque.
-
100+ft-lbs... on a 11mm block.. i see bad things happening.. just my $0.02
-
100+ft-lbs... on a 11mm block.. i see bad things happening.. just my $0.02
And bore distortion and extra blowby, or am I just really lucky?
-
The instructions call for 80ftlbs with the supplied moly lube on the fasteners and 120ftlbs without using the supplied moly lube and using 10w-30wt oil instead. 134ftlbs seems really high? Do you have the part number for your head studs? I would like to see if they are the same part number as mine. What I plan to do in the next couple of days is retorque the fasteners while the engine is cold. I'll try 100ftlbs and see if the fasteners move and the torque wrench clicks, if the fasteners don't move and the torque wrench clicks at 100ftlbs, I'll try 120ftlbs and hope the fasteners move a bit. Then I can put on a turbocharger real soon!!!
134 ft lbs is prolly spec for the diesel specific head studs..
-
100+ft-lbs... on a 11mm block.. i see bad things happening.. just my $0.02
x2 on this.. 11mm blocks are bad news.
-
Well, I retorqued my head bolts to 120ftlbs. I also have the 12mm block and head if that makes any difference. I recall from my first HG, when I retorqued the head from 80ftlbs to 90ftlbs, there was no movement, so I retorqued to 100ftlbs and there was still no movement. For the second HG, this time I used my friends Snap-on torque wrench which was just recalibrated instead of my Husky torque wrench, and the nuts turned almost 1/4 turn!!! I wonder if my Husky torque wrench needs to be recalibrated, haaaa! I cleaned/filtered the coolant in the reservoir, and noticed the oil film is definitely not as bad as before! I will monitor the coolant in the reservoir because I know there is still residual oil left over...nothing that a turkey baster can't fix! I hope the retorque of the head studs has allowed me to salvage this HG for some time because I only had 3000 miles on the first HG and about 3000 miles on the current one:)
-
I unscrewed my wrench too far and had to send it out for re-calibration. Cost $65 and took 2 weeks. Then I ran across this on Amazon; Alltrade 940759 Powerbuilt Digital Torque Adaptor for 1/2-Inch Driver. Sounds like a pretty good device. Either way, having an accurate device is super important when cranking the bolts almost to the point of snapping.
-
The name of the outfit is Angle Repair.com. They do good work.